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DIY Audio Test DVD - Page 8

post #211 of 300
4/21/07 at 10:22am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bambus View Post

Hey,
I just got the DVD. Thanx to all that made it possible. Its a great test tool for any HT, big or small.

One question to all though. In 5.1 tests, when you test the levels and you have a choice of each chanel, when i go to LFE, i got no sound. The only way i get the sub to output is when I select MAINS or LEFT or RIGHT, only then the sub is mixed in that test. Any ideas on how i can isolate the sub to be on its own ( or is it possible?)

Im running the tests using Pioneer VSX1015 - sub out, Y spiltter to a powered sub L and R inputs.
Thnx

you sure your reciver is working at 5.1 during those test? it sounds like its running in stereo or dsp mode and simply mixing the lfe to the mains and the sub at the same time.
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post #212 of 300
4/21/07 at 1:40pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Any ideas on how i can isolate the sub to be on its own ( or is it possible?)

The LFE tests are isolated, it sounds like a setup issue.

Make sure you have your sub settings on yes and not plus or off.
Make sure the LFE ATT setting is 0dB. (it's in the Other Setup section) Not -10dB or off.
Make sure you are listening in a standard Dolby Digital mode.
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post #213 of 300
4/22/07 at 2:54pm
My copy works great on my HD-A1, no issues. I found out that my LFE subwoofers will move at 2Hz!! Then, using a radio shack SPL meter, I confirmed that my -3dB response was 19Hz; previous measurements with RoomEQ and the meter indicated this as well.

I'm going to purchase Buttkicker LFE transducers at some point, and now that this DVD is out we can create a +3dB cutoff point using an EQ and the test tones. I'll play the subsonic frequencies in 1Hz increments to blend the vibrations perfectly with my subwoofer's -3dB point.

Thanks for creating this DVD, and thanks for the people who are hosting the ISO!!
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post #214 of 300
4/22/07 at 3:02pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by soho54 View Post

The LFE tests are isolated, it sounds like a setup issue.

Make sure you have your sub settings on yes and not plus or off.
Make sure the LFE ATT setting is 0dB. (it's in the Other Setup section) Not -10dB or off.
Make sure you are listening in a standard Dolby Digital mode.

Thanx, that was the issue. I had it at PLUS. Thanx.
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post #215 of 300
4/22/07 at 4:17pm
Thread Starter 
Glad I could help.
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post #216 of 300
4/23/07 at 12:55pm
My bad, Correction to my previous post. The LFE can be set to YES or PLUS. It will still work.

The problem was my LFE ATT was OFF, and it has to be 0dB.

Don't want to confuse N E 1.

My current sub, Old powered Kenwood 10" starts at 25dB, anything below is not audible. We will see how the DUI sono does. If I only had an amp

its comming

Thnx for you help and the DVD soho.
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post #217 of 300
5/5/07 at 5:17pm
Thread Starter 
Shameless bump.
It's done. See the FP for all the info.
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post #218 of 300
6/12/07 at 7:27pm
Trying to download the torrent now but the speed is going slow. Can those that've downloaded please seed for me. Thanks!

Also, thanks to the creators and people who have spent time working on this DVD.
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post #219 of 300
6/26/07 at 6:22pm
Thread Starter 
Sorry, I'm a little late.

Thank you, Capt.
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post #220 of 300
6/26/07 at 7:15pm
Soho, this is a super disc. Thanks much. Forgive if this has been asked.....Can I use the pink noise to set my EQ with a RTA? I.E., is it full range pink noise and is it "accurate". I have both DVE and Avia and have used both, but they are slightly different (mostly in the 200-500hz range).
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post #221 of 300
6/26/07 at 8:25pm
Thread Starter 
That is a tough question.
Which PN tests are you wanting to try to use with the RTA?
All calibration PN tests are bandwidth limited. The 2.0 mains are 300-2200Hz, Sub 20-80Hz. The 5.1 speakers are 300-2200Hz, LFE 30-200Hz.

The only "full range" PN is in the 5.1 extras section. I just don't remember how this section ended up. It was redone several times, and I messed my audit trail up. In the comparison sections they are either 10Hz and up, or 50Hz and up. I am unsure of the final out come in the 5.1 at one time section. It is really full range, or 10Hz and up.

There was suppose to be a section with a full range signal on each channel by itself for RTA's, but it got left out of the finale draft somehow. All that is left is the Extra's comparison section. Sorry.

As for the accuracy, it is as accurate as random noise can be. Here is a pic of the FFT response of the original Full Range wave. I just added bandpass filters to create the wavs on the disk. I hope this is close enough. (Note- My PN doesn't sound like Avia's PN. They tweaked something there.) I used high intensity in my PN generation.

Hope this helps. Sorry about the pure RTA section again.
LL
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post #222 of 300
7/18/07 at 6:38pm
thanks for the dvd, finally got myself a new sound card and this helps so much. why is this thread not a sticky yet?!
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post #223 of 300
7/18/07 at 6:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jarrod1937 View Post

thanks for the dvd, finally got myself a new sound card and this helps so much. why is this thread not a sticky yet?!

Mods only show up to this forum when someone complains or there is fighting. That's it.
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post #224 of 300
8/8/07 at 8:53am
Thread Starter 
There is an update in the works.

I'm adding 20-20K Pink Noise per channel for RTA users, and adding some different Dialnorm levels checks for a few who have asked.

Anyone find any quirks that need to be fixed? Any must have additions?
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post #225 of 300
8/8/07 at 9:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by soho54 View Post

There is an update in the works.

I'm adding 20-20K Pink Noise per channel for RTA users, and adding some different Dialnorm levels checks for a few who have asked.

Anyone find any quirks that need to be fixed? Any must have additions?

It would be nice to have a readout on-screen of what frequency is being played when the sweeps are firing off. I don't know how difficult that would be, but it would be a nice addition.
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post #226 of 300
8/8/07 at 10:07am
Thread Starter 
Quote:


It would be nice to have a readout on-screen of what frequency is being played when the sweeps are firing off. I don't know how difficult that would be, but it would be a nice addition.

This is kind of in the works as well. It would put the update way off to include it, but if it's what eveyone wants I can hold back awhile.

It is just very labor intensive. I can only do about one sweep video a day, and I have to quit. Then it's a few days later before I feel like attempting it again. Let alone have the time. That is a crap load of frames to create manually, and audio sync.

Anyone with a lot of free time want to outsource?
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post #227 of 300
8/8/07 at 10:51am
Quote:
Originally Posted by crackyflipside View Post

Mods only show up to this forum when someone complains or there is fighting. That's it.

Made it a sticky....
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post #228 of 300
8/8/07 at 11:57am
Thread Starter 
Well since this is up top now , I want to add that I am trying to get the DVD levels checked by an outside source. Several avenues have went sour, but I have hopes another will pan out.

I could do it myself, but that isn't always a good idea. I'm going to try and get someone whose measurement skills, and honesty are unquestioned. If this falls through I'll do it myself anyway.

20-20K Pink Noise per channel for RTA users, and adding some different Dialnorm levels checks- are coming.
Frequency indicator video on sweeps is possible, just takes awhile.

Any other comments, suggestions?
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post #229 of 300
8/19/07 at 5:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kysersose View Post

Made it a sticky....


Crackyflipside: "Foot, this is mouth; mouth, this is foot." :

Glad to see this finally stickied where it belongs.
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post #230 of 300
8/19/07 at 6:16pm
Not sure if it is discussed before on this thread, is there .torrent file for this download. Thanks!
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post #231 of 300
8/19/07 at 8:03pm
Thread Starter 
I keep the first post updated. The torrent link is on there.

I forgot to add that to my last post.




Up to date info in first post.
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post #232 of 300
11/23/07 at 10:54am
What is the current status of the update?

This disc sounds awesome! Should I wait to download until I the update is released? soho54, do you have a versioning system for this disc? How do I know what version I am downloading? Did you ever get the levels checked by an independent?

I can't believe this thread just ended this way. I am all fired up!

Mike
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post #233 of 300
11/30/07 at 3:50pm
Hi!
This is a cool DVD!
I'd suggest short (burst) tones at different frequencies for both room and woofer response testing. For example 50ms to 400ms tones as used by Siegfried Linkwitz on his site.

Regards,
Sladi
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post #234 of 300
12/28/07 at 9:23am
ok all, I have a very stupid question. How am I supposed to be checking my sub with this? I mean what am i supposed to do to fid out the performance of my sub? I built my own with help from people on this forum and I would really like to find out if i did a good job or not.. I have put he disc in and I get very slight woofer movement at 1hz but I know that dont mean squat. I just need some direction on what to do. all i have is a radio shack spl meter(with digital readout). Any help appreciated and thanks in advance!!!
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post #235 of 300
12/28/07 at 10:39am
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigboar View Post

ok all, I have a very stupid question. How am I supposed to be checking my sub with this? I mean what am i supposed to do to fid out the performance of my sub? I built my own with help from people on this forum and I would really like to find out if i did a good job or not.. I have put he disc in and I get very slight woofer movement at 1hz but I know that dont mean squat. I just need some direction on what to do. all i have is a radio shack spl meter(with digital readout). Any help appreciated and thanks in advance!!!

With the aid of the test CD and your RS SPL meter you can chart the performance of your DIY sub.

As you discovered, it is as easy for the cone of your woofer to move back and forth 1 time per second (1Hz) than at
100 Hz. You may not have much gain through your amplifier at that low frequency, so the excursion may not be much, and as a result your SPL not too high as measured by your meter, although I doubt it goes that low anyways. Certainly you cannot hear anywhere near that low in frequency. For most, 20 Hz is about as low as we can hear unless the SPL is very high.

So, reduce the level to something on-scale on your SPL meter when playing a test tone somewhere around 150 Hz.
Going downward from there in frequency, measure the level from your sub for each test tone frequency in turn. Keep the RS meter in the same place for each measurement, change its scale as needed to measure the level as you proceed. (On most subs, and certainly on most meters the level will drop as you go really low in frequency.)

You will want to make two sets of measurements, one very close to the subwoofer's driver (near-field) and one from your listening position (far-field)

The far-field set of measurements show the effects of the room more, the near-field measurements show them less.

lastly, plot the measurements on either graph paper, or on a spreadsheet. A spreadsheet with corrections for the RS SPL meter is available here: http://home.comcast.net/~thomasw_2/FreqResp.xls

At the bottom of this page http://home.comcast.net/~thomasw-2/S...ndEQpage4.html
are links to several other spreadsheets.

Joe L.
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post #236 of 300
2/1/08 at 9:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by J. L. View Post

With the aid of the test CD and your RS SPL meter you can chart the performance of your DIY sub.

As you discovered, it is as easy for the cone of your woofer to move back and forth 1 time per second (1Hz) than at
100 Hz. You may not have much gain through your amplifier at that low frequency, so the excursion may not be much, and as a result your SPL not too high as measured by your meter, although I doubt it goes that low anyways. Certainly you cannot hear anywhere near that low in frequency. For most, 20 Hz is about as low as we can hear unless the SPL is very high.

So, reduce the level to something on-scale on your SPL meter when playing a test tone somewhere around 150 Hz.
Going downward from there in frequency, measure the level from your sub for each test tone frequency in turn. Keep the RS meter in the same place for each measurement, change its scale as needed to measure the level as you proceed. (On most subs, and certainly on most meters the level will drop as you go really low in frequency.)

You will want to make two sets of measurements, one very close to the subwoofer's driver (near-field) and one from your listening position (far-field)

The far-field set of measurements show the effects of the room more, the near-field measurements show them less.

lastly, plot the measurements on either graph paper, or on a spreadsheet. A spreadsheet with corrections for the RS SPL meter is available here: http://home.comcast.net/~thomasw_2/FreqResp.xls

At the bottom of this page http://home.comcast.net/~thomasw-2/S...ndEQpage4.html
are links to several other spreadsheets.

Joe L.

Hi Joe,

I'm trying to follow the instructions you posted above. I'm a bit confused since I have never done this before. It will be my first time tonight once I have completed the iso download. I have an SPL meter. Should I set it to A or C waiting? Fast? And when plotting, do you guys play 1 tone such as 1hz while watching the spl meter? Then whatever you see on the spl meter, you put it manually on the excel spreadsheet?

Thanks.

Neil
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post #237 of 300
2/1/08 at 10:21pm
Here is an update but I don't know what I am doing.

My yamaha's master volume was set at -16db and QSC gain knob at 24db. I chose the DD5.1 selection on the dvd. Then I selected LFE, then started with 15hz. Below are the values I saw on my Radio Shack set to Slow Response and C Weighting.

15Hz 71db
16Hz 74db
17Hz 79db
18Hz 80db
19Hz 81db
20Hz 86db
25Hz 90db
30Hz 91db
35Hz 86db

Then I saw another menu. It says, -.5db LFE. So I started with 20hz. Oh men, I got frightened badly, I thought my house is going to fall down. I quickly stop it because I felt I'm going to ruin my sub. I adjusted yamaha's master volume to -28db. I played that same scene again and it was still loud. Then next test showed -.5db 200hz-1hz. There was one tone there where my Radio Shack's needle wasn't enough at 90db. So I set it at 110db on radio shack. It continued playing from high tone to low tone. Then on one part of the tone, I saw the needle came up at 112db.

There is also a message there. Use at your own risk. I remember seeing it when using below 15hz. Why is it so? Sorry, I'm new to this.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Oh, how are my readings? Is it good/bad or just right on the spot?
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post #238 of 300
2/3/08 at 8:06am
Thread Starter 
v1rtu0s1ty, your readings look fine. A range of up to 60-80Hz would give you a better picture though.

There is a warning on any track that can kill a driver fast, if you are not sure what you are doing.

Any commercial sub I have owned had filters in place to keep most users pretty safe. With most DIY subs this isn't the case, so I added warnings so that people not as well versed in hertz would know not to go crazy with potential sub killers.

The trick is to try everything new at a low volume first.
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post #239 of 300
2/7/08 at 8:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by soho54 View Post

v1rtu0s1ty, your readings look fine. A range of up to 60-80Hz would give you a better picture though.

There is a warning on any track that can kill a driver fast, if you are not sure what you are doing.

Any commercial sub I have owned had filters in place to keep most users pretty safe. With most DIY subs this isn't the case, so I added warnings so that people not as well versed in hertz would know not to go crazy with potential sub killers.

The trick is to try everything new at a low volume first.

Thanks. I have my CLIP FILTERS set to ON. This way, it can protect my drivers. Anyways, ThomasW adviced me not to do the test right now so as not to fry the drivers. He told me that I can do it again once I have my DIY sub become a real IB.

So if my CLIP FILTER wasn't ON, it could have killed it right?
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post #240 of 300
2/23/08 at 11:11pm
I am having trouble burning the DVD,

I have downloaded the Torrent and the "link" from thread #1

both burn, but have trouble finalizing the disk using ImageBurn.(latest version)

I have tried two seperate DVD burners.

anyone else having problems?
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