My HT Room - Page 4

I did reply and dont know why the post is missing, I certainly didnt delete it...

I'd have to measure the riser to see exactly, I dont recall how far I extended the riser off the top of my head although I'm tempted to say 6'. I can say the first row started at 13' and the riser begins right behind those seats and extends to the rear wall.

For the base of the riser I used 2x10"'s and then 3/4" plywood on top of that. Not sure if it helped anything at all but I did stuff the riser base with insulation too.

When the rise base was in place, I ran the wire through the riser and up behind the column for the rope lights. One suggestion (that I did not do) is perhaps pre-wire under the riser in case in the future you decide to add butt kickers or something like that.

My seats & popcorn machine also came from Roman. He is excellent to deal with and he will continue communicating with you after the purchase.

I think (without looking back) the pictures show my seating. Anyway there individual seats connected together for the rows, 3 in the first row, 4 in the back row. The only thing I may have done different with them is to remove one of the arms so the two middle seats in the back row fit the wife and I together. As they are now, she keeps climbing into my seat with me...

As an update to my room itself, I purchased another HD player the HD-A35. However I found it wont work with my fairly new Pioneer Elite 72 AV receiver unless I send the receiver for an update. The dealears around here say its a 8 week wait though. So I'm thinking about upgrading it again, 3rd time in less then 2 years....

Very Low....

I would have prefered if I could have hung it a bit higher but I didnt have much choice in the matter. Because of the soffit I have in the front of the room, the bottom of the screen is only 20" off the floor.

I have the JVC RS1, I could be wrong but I thought the RS2 was supposed to come out at alot higher of a price tag.

I hid the chair outlets real good... there are none

I dont have anything connected to the chairs. The subwoofer I have is excellent, it litterally shakes the room when the LFE sounds kicks in, I havent really seen the need to add any butkickers. I'm so glad someone on AVS talked me into returning the original sub I ordered and getting the one I have listed now.

I do have electrical outlets on the back wall behind the second row though. I wish I would have ran a few lines in the base of the riser and put some outlets there behind the first rough but so far havent really had the need for any.

I have the SVS

No, I did not place any acoustical treatments in the room. I was more concerned with trying to limit the sound from getting out of the room. For that I put a double layer of insulation in the walls, ceiling and riser.

Yes that is the SVS sub in the front left of the room. I think its 140-150 lbs.

Edit:

Just to add the only other thing I have done to the room with audio is when I had the pj video calibrated I also had the ISF calibrator, audio calibrate the receiver, components and speakers for the room.

I think that would be overkill with a good subwoofer and is not needed. I recall also being suggested the same of using 2 subs and glad that I decided I would try just the one first.

The SVS sub is excellent and has no problem at all filling the room in fact I have it set very low and it still completly fills the room including rattling the entire room during explosions and such.

If I turn the sound up, the sub can be heard throughout the house from my basement (semi-sound proofed room), through the 1st floor and all the way up to the second floor bedrooms.

The two layers of insulation in itself was expensive. Of course there is plenty more you can do to sound proof the room but that depends on how much money you want to spend.

Let me say that the double layer of insulation was enough to eliminate all the sound except the sub when I have the volume cranked on a good action/war movie. The sub vibrates the floor, walls, studs etc and I dont think there is any eliminating that.

Listening to most movies will not be heard outside of the room. However I have hearing damage left over from the war and really like crank the volume on my action/war movies.

If you are putting in heating & air ducts like I have, you can make sure you use a soft pipe and it has a few turns/curves in it. This will trap the sound from traveling straight through the ducts.

Other then that you can put extra layers of sheetrock up and/or pay extra for special sheetrock and tiles that are more sound resistent. Doing to much though may dull the sound in the room.

It was easy enough, just bought a whole spool of wire and ran a seperate line to each of the 7 speakers in the studded wall back to the equipment rack before I sheet rocked.

I tried to future proof it a bit in case I ever needed to re-run wires in the future.

Room layout, on the back side of the front wall (screen) is an unfinished utility room this gives me access to the whole wall there. This also provides access to getting behing the left side wall described below.

The left side wall, I left about 1.5' of space between the foundation wall and the room wall so if I need to change anything in the future I can squeze behind the wall if I must.

On the right side, I left a large plastic pipe running through the soffit so I can phish additional wires from the front wall to the back wall if I have to in the future.

The back wall is built out a few inches from another foundation wall. Not enough for me to fit behind but enough for me to be able to phish wires behind the entire back wall if I have too. I can get to this section from the closet behind the equipment rack on the one side and behind the left wall on the other.

Only the right wall surround speaker would be problematic if I ever had to run all new speaker wires in the future. I might need to cut a hole to do it but I dont picture the wire going bad anytime soon (hopefully).

Room Update:

Having updated my AV receiver twice in the last 18 months both receivers costing me around 1k each, I was very happy with the second receiver (Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV) which gave me 2 HDMI outlets that my first Marantz receiver did not have. I was then able to listen to the TrueHD tracks on both HD DVD & Blu-ray.

Recently upgrading to the HD DVD HD-A35 player I found a bug in the Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV receiver. On the newer 1.3 players it would play audio and not video although it worked find with my gen 1 HD-A1 player for 18 months now.

I researched the problem and found that the receiver needed an firmware update that is being provided by Pioneer dealers that specifically corrects this problem. I called 2 dealers within an hour’s drive of me and both say it’s a simple one hour fix but there is an 6-8 week waiting list at each location.

Not wanting to be without a receiver for 8 weeks or even waiting that long to correct the problem, I decided to upgrade receivers again (and piss off the wife once more). So last week I purchased the newer Pioneer model, Pioneer Elite VSX-94TXH AV receiver for $1,400.00 at Tweeters.

The new receiver gives me several upgraded features such as 4 HDMI connections (older player only had 2), HDMI 1.3, internet connection port for streaming music and the ability to decode DTS-HD tracks.

I figure now I can sell my existing Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV as-is to some one that may be closer to a dealer with a shorter waiting list or jump on the 8 week list here and have it updated and then sell it (probably for around half of what I paid for it within the same year I purchased it).

Thanks for reminding me, I'm working from home today so I was just able to run down and measure it for you.

The riser does extend from the back wall out seven foot.

When seats are in the upright position this leaves about 2' space in front of the back row and 1.5' behind the seats.

I've read about many HT rooms using smaller risers but think this is an ideal length specially considering the extra space you need when the seats are fully reclined.

If anything, i'd love to have an additional foot or two behind the row just to make it a bit easier to get behind the seats for the movies on my shelves and also for cleaning.

The 13' distance from the front of the room to the start of the riser is fine considering the seats are actually placed a little bit in front of the riser. This should put there heads around 12' which is suggested.

I dont recall how high is your ceiling and is anything (such as a soffit) forcing you to lower where your screen will be?

The 110" if fine in my room and I would continue to keep a screen that size in there rather then settle for a smaller screen. However if I could, I would love to be able to hang it a foot or so higher then it is now because the bottom of the screen is only 20" off the floor.

Note: this is because I was forced to lower the screen because of the soffit.

My riser was built with the 2x10" base plus 3/4" plywood and carpeting. So the full height is around 11".

If I had to rebuild the riser I would have made it a bit higher (2x12"s base and 2 layers of plywood) just to make it a little bit easier to see over the front row seats.

Yes I would say if anything, extend the riser longer if you can to give you more room in front of and behind the seats

I can move the first row of seats anywhere from 13' to 1 inch from the screen now, simply by pushing the seats forward...

The riser starts at 13' so thats the maximum you can move the back of the seats too. The front of the seats are less then the 13'.

Also the front row seats you can move anywhere in front of the riser you want.

Differences if I could change anything:

If my room was a couple feet longer though, I would have extended the riser (still keeping it from 13' from the front) only to add another foot or so of space behind the 2nd row seats.

Other then that, the only difference I would make would be to put the riser a few inches higher then I already have it.

Even with your screen capable of being hung higher then mine I would still build up the riser higher. It just makes it easier to see over the seats and heads of people in front of you.

I would think 2x12's or 2x14s with 2 sheets of 3/4" plywood would be ideal as long as it still leaves at least 6' of space to your ceiling. Plus this will give you more room to cut and place electric outlets, boxes etc in the front of the riser for you chairs and/or future accessories.

An editior from some German HT magazine has seen this thread and has asked if they can publish pictures of my HT room in it. So hopefully this may come to be sometime in the future.

Knowing my luck, its probably an article on what not to do when building your home theater....

Nope everything is even and centered on both sides of the room. The riser steps on both sides are 2' foot wide and its about 3' from the side walls to the 1st row seats.

No, with my current room dimensions, I would keep the same length riser that I currently have.

With the back of the seats pushed against the begining of the riser at 13', the center/front of the seat is already around 12'-12.5' from the screen.

If the room was another foot longer I would have extended the riser another foot behind the second row but the start of the riser would still have been at 13' from the screen.

I have still been researching IR Repeater systems and I'm afraid to say I'm still a bit confused about which package/kit I should purchase. Is the "IR Repeater System" even the right terminology?

It's funny the wife originally talked me out of putting this in the room thinking it would not be a big deal to point the remote(s) at the back equipment rack. But she has a terrible habbit of still pointing the remote at the screen whenever she attempt to use any remote.

I already have extra cat5 wire ran to the front of the room to the equipement rack and can easily change this to another type of wire if needed. I just need to find what type of full kit to purchase, put the sensors around the screen and hook it up to the components.

About the only thing I know I want in the kit are small sensor(s) that I can insert in the wall around the screen.

My exact equipment is detailed on the first post of this thread but in summary I will need it to work for the HD DVD HD-A35 player, Blu-ray PS3 player (with whatever is needed to use this since its not IR), the cable box and the Pioneer receiver. The PJ is already good and working with pointing the remote at the screen.

If anyone can help me out, it would be appriecated very much.