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Official MK - Miller & Kreisel Thread?!? - Page 116

post #3451 of 3633
I hear ya. I plan to keep my S-150/Surr-250 speakers after i move to something else. I may put them another room, maybe my office. I used to have 5 S-125 speakers and sold them to get the S-150s only to see the person mistreat and eventually throw away the S-125s in the trash!!
post #3452 of 3633
I finally completed my S-5000 setup and will be hooking up the entire 5 channel front stage tonight. Holding onto my L/R S-5000s all these years(15) is finally gonna pay off. biggrin.gif
post #3453 of 3633
Quote:
Originally Posted by masterslacker View Post

I finally completed my S-5000 setup and will be hooking up the entire 5 channel front stage tonight. Holding onto my L/R S-5000s all these years(15) is finally gonna pay off. biggrin.gif

Congrats. I'm running S-5000's as LCR in my setup too in my theater along with the ss-150's.

I have the S-150's in our great room as well. I've definitely gotten my money out of the M&K's after all these years.
post #3454 of 3633
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I have this exaxt same issue with my MX-350. I've found if I get the switch just right it stays where I want it. I've been tempted to remove the amp plate and see if there's just a wire that's loose in there but never got around to it. Let me know what you find out.

Have you figured out what the problem was? I seem to be having the same issue.
Edited by denaliman - 4/7/13 at 5:38pm
post #3455 of 3633
Hi Guys,
I have a couple of M&K V-1b subs that I'm integrating into my stereo system. This is going to be for music only, just to get that bottom octave. I've got new old stock drivers in there biggrin.gif and one of the plate amps is working well. The other has something going on with it. The gain pot is screwy, it acts more like an on and off switch than a pot, nothing, or all there.
But the real issue is the crossover. The V-1b has a fixed crossover at 125Hz (matched to the S-1b satellites). I need to be around 60 or 70Hz. So I'm thinking of just upgrading to new amps.
These are 4 Ohm 12" drivers and the amps were 200W. I'm not interested in BOOM. This is for music not movies, I need control and detail. There are three amps I'm looking at right now:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=300-802

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=301-504

and

http://www.apexjr.com/Megabass.htm

The latter was suggested to me by the big K himself, Ken Kreisel, though I'm not sure he's actually heard the amp and that was a few years ago. Anyone have any suggestions, either about the ones above or something else?

THANKS!
post #3456 of 3633
Quote:
Originally Posted by denaliman View Post

Have you figured out what the problem was? I seem to be having the same issue.

I never got around to taking the amp off. I find once I get it to where I want it that it stays there. I'd be curious if anyone else does take off the amp and what they find.
post #3457 of 3633
Quote:
Originally Posted by abernardi View Post

Hi Guys,
I have a couple of M&K V-1b subs that I'm integrating into my stereo system. This is going to be for music only, just to get that bottom octave. I've got new old stock drivers in there biggrin.gif and one of the plate amps is working well. The other has something going on with it. The gain pot is screwy, it acts more like an on and off switch than a pot, nothing, or all there.
But the real issue is the crossover. The V-1b has a fixed crossover at 125Hz (matched to the S-1b satellites). I need to be around 60 or 70Hz. So I'm thinking of just upgrading to new amps.
These are 4 Ohm 12" drivers and the amps were 200W. I'm not interested in BOOM. This is for music not movies, I need control and detail. There are three amps I'm looking at right now:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=300-802

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=301-504

and

http://www.apexjr.com/Megabass.htm

The latter was suggested to me by the big K himself, Ken Kreisel, though I'm not sure he's actually heard the amp and that was a few years ago. Anyone have any suggestions, either about the ones above or something else?

THANKS!


I've repaired/rebuilt/upgraded numerous M&K subs over the years and personally I'd go with the most powerful plate amp you are comfortable going with. The Yung-500 (with the boost) would be a great choice. Then once you have more funds, upgrade the drivers to something like a Dayton Reference Series smile.gif. If you aren't interested in upgrading the drivers, I'd go with a yung or bash 300 watt model.

The M&K drivers are just ok for music, personally I find them boomy compared to higher-end drivers you'll find on Parts-Express.

M&K actually re-branded the apex-jr in a lot of their latest models so that's probably why Ken recommended it to you. Personally, they are nothing special.
post #3458 of 3633
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I never got around to taking the amp off. I find once I get it to where I want it that it stays there. I'd be curious if anyone else does take off the amp and what they find.
Barry AKA Soundoctor has posted this fix that 100% worked for my old MX-5000MKII when it had issues. I have provided his link below. FYI, Barry used to work at the old M&K.

http://www.soundoctor.com/service/
post #3459 of 3633
^
Likewise! [+1]
post #3460 of 3633
Quote:
Originally Posted by realtight View Post

The Yung-500 (with the boost) would be a great choice.

For music, why would I want a 6dB boost @ 25 Hz? That seems more like a HT kind of thing. I don't have much experience with subwoofers though. Is the boost to compensate for a sealed enclosure?
post #3461 of 3633
Quote:
Originally Posted by abernardi View Post

For music, why would I want a 6dB boost @ 25 Hz? That seems more like a HT kind of thing. I don't have much experience with subwoofers though. Is the boost to compensate for a sealed enclosure?

The V-1b's have pretty small enclosures for most 12" drivers so adding in the low-end boost will help the early frequency roll-off and gain you some more "deep" bass.
post #3462 of 3633
Quote:
I've repaired/rebuilt/upgraded numerous M&K subs over the years...

Hey realtight, any experience working with M&K MX-70 subwoofers?
post #3463 of 3633
Quote:
Originally Posted by realtight View Post

The V-1b's have pretty small enclosures for most 12" drivers so adding in the low-end boost will help the early frequency roll-off and gain you some more "deep" bass.

Got it, that was my guess. THANKS!
post #3464 of 3633
Quote:
Originally Posted by erhurd View Post

Hey realtight, any experience working with M&K MX-70 subwoofers?

I've never touched any of the 8" M&K subs sorry... honestly, I got to the point where I just replaced the amplifiers most of the time since most models were so underpowered to begin with. If it's an amp or driver problem, upgrading to something at partsexpress is almost always better then fixing it, just my opinion.
post #3465 of 3633
looking for info about the Miller & Kreisel 5.1 THX Home Theater Reference speaker set.

http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/ele/3786851104.html

Never heard these speakers but someone locally is selling them for $900

I am entertaining a set of Kef q series for a home theather system. I currently have a pioneer sc 1522k that can run at 4ohm a channel. This these are worth the money? I am having trouble finding info on them.
post #3466 of 3633
I have the same speakers for a 7.1 set up. I do love them and have been the backbone of my HT system for years.They are great for HT and I recommend use with separates. Although a good AV that won't strain with the 4 OHM requirement will suffice since they are quite efficient. Your Pioneer should be fine it may run a little hot under load. I run a Simaudio titan and 2-bryston 3b sst amps. Also have run them with a lexicon MC12 and EAD powermaster set up. Effects are great and they are very clear for both DVD and Bluray so you can't go wrong here. They are very accurate for movies with good dynamic range..Music is good in movies, but I find lacking in detail for cds.SACD, after all they are designed for HT. Don't get me wrong music still sounds good just not "audiophile" critical. Center is very clear, crisp and good body and depth. L/C/R throw a great soundstage that is immersive. Subwoofer (THX 350) is good if it is set up correctly it uses the M&K push/pull configuration the 125 sub would work for a smaller room but may not give you the impact you want.. the recommended set up is all crossovers set to 80. Audeyssey calibration can suck the life out of them IMO, but that can be overcome. Overall they are a great HT speaker. Dipoles for surrounds work very well and you can run them in single pole as well. The center speaker is essentially the same as the L/R.. You will need stands for the F/L. I use a set of Target two post stands. See if they have stands to give you as well. These are original M&K and they have gone out of business so parts may be hard to come by if needed. Check the switches on the subwoofer (THX and Phase).they have been problematic. Make sure they work with no static when moving the toggle switches. A shot of contact cleaner usually works for the fix by removing the AMP plate and spray the toggle area. All in all a great HT speaker. They retailed for about $4500-5000 new. If they have been cared for $900 sounds like a good deal. I hope this was somewhat helpful. good Luck.
post #3467 of 3633
Quote:
Originally Posted by denaliman View Post

I have the same speakers for a 7.1 set up. I do love them and have been the backbone of my HT system for years.They are great for HT and I recommend use with separates. Although a good AV that won't strain with the 4 OHM requirement will suffice since they are quite efficient. Your Pioneer should be fine it may run a little hot under load. I run a Simaudio titan and 2-bryston 3b sst amps. Also have run them with a lexicon MC12 and EAD powermaster set up. Effects are great and they are very clear for both DVD and Bluray so you can't go wrong here. They are very accurate for movies with good dynamic range..Music is good in movies, but I find lacking in detail for cds.SACD, after all they are designed for HT. Don't get me wrong music still sounds good just not "audiophile" critical. Center is very clear, crisp and good body and depth. L/C/R throw a great soundstage that is immersive. Subwoofer (THX 350) is good if it is set up correctly it uses the M&K push/pull configuration the 125 sub would work for a smaller room but may not give you the impact you want.. the recommended set up is all crossovers set to 80. Audeyssey calibration can suck the life out of them IMO, but that can be overcome. Overall they are a great HT speaker. Dipoles for surrounds work very well and you can run them in single pole as well. The center speaker is essentially the same as the L/R.. You will need stands for the F/L. I use a set of Target two post stands. See if they have stands to give you as well. These are original M&K and they have gone out of business so parts may be hard to come by if needed. Check the switches on the subwoofer (THX and Phase).they have been problematic. Make sure they work with no static when moving the toggle switches. A shot of contact cleaner usually works for the fix by removing the AMP plate and spray the toggle area. All in all a great HT speaker. They retailed for about $4500-5000 new. If they have been cared for $900 sounds like a good deal. I hope this was somewhat helpful. good Luck.

Thanks very much for the reply. I would love to hear them as they look very interesting and assuming my amp can power them $900 for a full sorround sound set would be great. I am not one that needs the newest and best. If something sounded fantastic 10 years ago changes are they will still sound good comparativly speaking.
I would be either using the sub as a second or not at all. I was thinking of the PSA vx15

Is their something specific to these speakers that they need to alll match or can I use any sub I like to still get that THX effect?
post #3468 of 3633
over post
Edited by lemonslush - 5/6/13 at 7:47pm
post #3469 of 3633
No you can use another sub. I would actually recommend two subs to equalize any nulls or voids and smooth out the room. I use a second Monitor Audio Sub as well. So actually 7.2 and I want to add some heights as well. the PSA is a great sub. You may want to check out SVS as well. THX is just a "standard" you can still get the "THX effect" without a THX certified system. Companies pay large sums to have their components certified THX so they can sell more. Lots of high end companies have dropped the certification because of cost and some just don't want to certify. Really marketing hype. THX doesn't necessarily mean the best, just that it meets certain minimum performance standards set by THX..Visit the THX website and read a little up on it.
post #3470 of 3633
If they are working and in good shape that is a STEAL! I bought my S-150THX set (LRC and 4 SS-150s for 7.1 home theater) second hand and I spent 3 times that. They are fantastic speakers (can't say about the sub, I use a SVS PC-Ultra13) but they are 4ohm and they want power. I currently run LRC and the 2 side surrounds with a Emotiva 5 channel amp (300w at 4 ohms) and the 2 rear surrounds with a Pioneer Elite 49txi AVR. For a while I just used the Pioneer and even though it's only rated for 160w @ 6 ohms it would power the speakers. BUT switching over to the Emotiva made a noticable difference.

Get them NOW!
post #3471 of 3633
I recently repaired a MX-150 THX, sent the amp back to it's owner who then reported, some months later, that he also had some popping in his sub. I now have the amp back, same output chip blown again. Repaired and during bench testing found the amp would only act up if I toggled the Fixed/Variable switch when two 4 ohm M&K 350-4 speakers were connected. I will be replacing that switch soon. With 8 ohm drivers or lower input levels, no problems. I also learned that you can overdrive the input, check your settings on your sub output on the unit driving your sub. I'll check the magnet rings for looseness but have to wait for him to ship the drivers to me. And I have also found many of the original potentiometers develop dead spots and have to be replaced as well.
On a final note, I am looking for an MX-150 cabinet with out any guts, should someone come across one for sale. You can't properly test these units unless assembled in sealed enclosures.
post #3472 of 3633
Does anyone have any recommendations on mounting an MPS-2525P (same size as MPS-2510P or S-150P - speaker with built-in amp) from the ceiling using the existing mounting holes on the bottom of the speaker (as opposed to having to drill into the speaker elsewhere)? I've found the Omnimount Pro 60.0 WBX which seem to do the trick for wall mounting, but no one seems to have a solution for mounting from the ceiling where no wall is available.
post #3473 of 3633
Those are about 50 lbs a piece i think. You might want to look into some pro type mounts for DJ/ nightclub equipment. A plasma or projector mount modified could work as well, Chief Mfg. make good ones. Maybe check out Peavy, powerdrive for heavy mounts. I modified a set of omnimounts for my surrounds thru a drop ceiling using 1" NPT pipe fixtures.
post #3474 of 3633
Maybe something like this or CRT mount.

http://www.lucasey.com/pages/crt_ceiling.php
post #3475 of 3633
Thanks very much for the info denaliman - this is very helpful.
post #3476 of 3633
Quote:
Originally Posted by lemonslush View Post

Thanks very much for the reply. I would love to hear them as they look very interesting and assuming my amp can power them $900 for a full sorround sound set would be great. I am not one that needs the newest and best. If something sounded fantastic 10 years ago changes are they will still sound good comparativly speaking.
I would be either using the sub as a second or not at all. I was thinking of the PSA vx15

Is their something specific to these speakers that they need to alll match or can I use any sub I like to still get that THX effect?

Did you get these speakers? If, so..what do you think?
post #3477 of 3633
Finally got to A/B compare a set of S-150THX to a set of S-100B .... 3 differences. shallow cabinets, no foam appliques between the tweeters and no pricey "THX" licensing... The result? just as it was mentioned in the Marketing lit for the S-100B -- sonics and performance? same speaker. I would suspect that the depth of the cabinet would alter the sound somewhat but at normal listening levels , My ears had a very hard time telling them apart. Any difference I was able to detect was subtle and mostly in the mid range. - with the S-100b sounding just a hair more "present" for lack of a better word.

Now the S-5000THX and S-90 sound worlds different than the S-150THX, the only speaker left on my list from M&K that I'd like to own is a set of S-1c Satellites. Always been curious about them.
post #3478 of 3633
Sorry, me again, interrupting things with dumb questions on mounts. I was planning on purchasing a bunch of Omnimount 60.0 WB wall mounts for my S-150Ps and 2525Ps (except for one, which I need to mount from the ceiling). To my chagrin, after looking high and low, I can't seem to find them anywhere. A few things I found on-line suggest that they've been discontinued. I can't even find the heavier duty ones (120.0 WB).

Does anyone have any suggestions on wall mounts for these speakers? What I'd very, very much like to do is to use the existing mounting holes at the bottom of the speakers - I'd be very hesitant in drilling new holes as I'd probably end up wrecking them. I did manage to find some Peavey mounts but they require some sort of pole mount (and I wasn't able to find an adapter for them) - plus they didn't tilt.

Anyone have any suggestions?
post #3479 of 3633
Customer gave me a 750 trio plus the thx 1250 sub. How good are these these days? I've only hooked up the sub in my current setup and it sounds amazing for 150 watts or so.

bob
post #3480 of 3633
WOW! Nice score! I have the 750 series and absolutely love them! Now you just need to look for some SURR-550's or SURR-55's for rears and you will be amazed at how good they match up. They pop up on ebay in the $300-400 range often.
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