Originally Posted by SvtFoci
It's very close to the ceiling and that's the biggest problem. Side walls I will paint darker, but the ceiling I can't. Its in a spare room. The 3d option will not be used much so it's mainly for regular-d, but a nice balance with 2d in mind would be great. Screen will be approximately 70-73"".
73"s diagonal is a screen measuring only 36" x 64". That's not a lot of height, nor width to expect it to present many issues.
Let's examine it all though...
73" screen =
8.3 to 9' Throw Distance ( very confined)
Top if the screen needs to be within 3"-4" of ceiling?
Tilt screen forward 5-7 degrees.
Mount PJ at closest/safest possible spot (8.6")
Using Tilt-Adjustable Mount, tilt PJ upwards to match Screen's slight angle
7 Degrees angle will result in a marked reduction in the amount of light reflecting onto the Ceiling and rebounding. Even so, the properties inherent in the screen must be advantageous to the needs of the application.
So which SF Screen paint?
Well...DLP or no, the Acer has just 3200:1 CR (optimally) However.....combined with the higher lumens, AND 3200:1 "DLP" Contrast...hitting a 73" Screen from 8.6' away, a substantially dark reflective Gray could easily improve the perceived Contrast a lot while also maintaining brightness for 3D viewing.
That's because with a scenario like the above, and on Normal Lamp output, the Foot Lambert reflecting off a 1.0 Gain screen, you'd have 77 fls to start out with, and even with a 50% drop due to program content and Shutter Glasses, 33.5 fls.
So I'd advise SF v2.5 3.0. Yes, that's a bit lighter than what PB suggested, but I'm taking into account that you will probably not use torch-mode, but in fact Low lamp most of the time, and that 3D will become the viewing choice increasingly more often.
Originally Posted by Ken2011
OK. I mixed up another 1/4 batch and added it to the mix I had. Then, I used the ratio and added more white and colorant as PB said. I then added quit a bit of water and the mix is much thinner than it was the first time. MM, I know you said you don't use the viscosity cup but that is what I have to compare. I thought I had it thinned correctly the first time when I poured it through the strainer but clearly I didn't. Therefore, I go on the time of the viscosity cup. The first time around, it ran through the cup in three minutes. Now, it is running through it in one minute. Would this be thin enough? It seems like it is going through the strainer as it should but I thought it did before so not sure I can judge that correctly.
Did you watch the videos above? There should be no doubt of you simply match your results to those shown. Even so, a "Minutes" drain time through that (*%!!^%$%&U(*&$%!@*^
cup is a big difference. I still maintain however that the "straining time" method is a lot more certain, and obviously a time saver since you must strain the paint in any case.
Next question is spraying. I am not going to have four hours to dedicate to spraying until early next week. However, I will have an hour here or there (enough to get two dusters in). Therefore, is it a problem to spray dusters over a two to three day period or should the spraying be done all at once?
No problems waiting if necessary, but as PB sez....30 minutes between Dusters...true Dusters, should be all that's needed.