Silver Fire mix - Page 44

Thanks for the reply pb.

I haven't done fL calculations before, so please bear with me. I'm pretty sure I had dialed in the 12.5' throw distance, but I was also assuming I needed to drop the lumens an additional 34% due to the masked vertical lines in 2.35 mode. Is this wrong?

Thanks,
Darrell

Does anyone know the gain and directionality for the different levels of SF v2.5?

So i want to attempt this. I've read a ton and my head is spinning. Hopefully you can answer some of my questions. Any hand holding is appreciated

1 - I see the ingredients, but i'm not 100% certain about the recipe. What do i mix to what in which order? Can somebody spell it out for me so i don't mess it up? In other words - Step 1, do this, step 2, do this etc.

2 - How much paint will i end up with using the ingredients listed? As in - enough to cover a 8x4 sheet? Do i need more paint? (I assume it's better to make more paint ahead of time.)

3 - Once i have it mixed, i need to do some sort of straining / thinning apparently to get it to the right viscosity. Can somebody spell out what tools i need for this and what to do exactly?

4 - The actual spraying: While i have seen the videos with the technique, i'm not certain about the surrounding / supporting stuff. Like - I'm supposed to spray some light coats with time between them. Having never done any spray painting, i do not know if / what all i should do with the paint and spray gun etc during that down time. Do i need to put the paint back in a can and clean out the spray gun completely between each coat? If so, what's the best way to do so? Assume you're talking to be a total newbie here.

5 - Can you confirm the number of coats, type of coats and time between coats for me? My head is kind of spinning with all the info, and i'm not certain about this part anymore.

Thanks!

Lots of Q's....but no time to answer at present. Read some more...it's all in here and on other related threads. Barring the success of such a self-taught effort, I'll reply at length (unless beaten to it...) later this PM.:

Alright, let me see if i got this right then for #1 -

Mix the base & viscosity components together. In my case (going for a 3.0 screen): Mix 22oz Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl, 22oz Liquitex Basics Silver, 10oz Behr 1850 UPW Flat, 2oz Liquitex Basics Gold, 12oz of Minwax Polycrylic, and 24oz of distilled water. Then separately mix the color components. Then the mixed color components with the other mixed stuff. Is that correct?

I still haven't found the answer to the other questions, or found differing information in various threads

Aha! Thanks for clarifying that.


alright, reading more.

Just found out my spay gun (never used) is a LVLP, not HVLP. I assume that is not (as) suitable? If not, would it be better to just buy the Wagner at HD (about $70 it looks like) or a spray gun to go with my compressor (plus pressure regular and rust filter etc)?

I just started my painting the other day. And I agree it is a bit info overload. I'll help the best I can:



Hope that all helps,

miataguy

@ Gertjan:

Follow the steps outlined in the ERuiz quote contained in this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1378624

I think there are also some answers to your other questions in there, too.

Yes....YES....YES By all means get a different Gun. Like this one.....;

http://www.gleempaint.com/noname.html

A Turbine -Hose Fed Electric HVLP with everything you need to paint like a Compressor Fed HVLP on Steroids. But no Rust/Water Filter, tons easier to use , and as light as having a Quart of Liquid in your outstretched hand, and about 10 oz more weight attributed to the Gun itself.

Much preferred by all those who have gotten one, over any Hand Held Turbine.....for all the obvious reasons, including that the Hand Held costs more. Don't pass this one up.

But if you do, the Wagner Double Duty is perfectly suited to the task as well. However it's bulky, fairly heavy to some,(...the Motor is in your Hand...) and tends to make people's arm wobble and dip....even "Arrrnuld Types".

My point being I have both...had the WG-DD first...but as long as the "No Name" (Graco) is available, it reigns supreme for discerning DIY'ers

Sure did, thanks!


Excellent, thank you for linking to that!


Sounds good to me I'll probably order one this weekend.

Thanks for all the help guys, i appreciate it

Well I just purchased the sprayer what have I done? What is the best solution for my JVC RS2 building a 127" curved scope screen? I want plenty of pop and PQ but have no clue which paint mix to use? Currently have a HP HC 2.4 110" flat scoped screen and am wanting the same if not more performace and pop! Silver 3.0 is what comes to mind?

THANKS

Thanks PB I remeasured and it will be 137" diagonal with about 500 lumens.
I read up on silver 2.0 if you feel that would be the best then I will go with
it. . My room walls and ceiling are black with total light control. Also will the sheen be gone in bright area's that is present with the HP?

Thanks

Use the Duster method on the last two coats to assure you have no sheen.

[quote=MississippiMan;21331125]Use the Duster method on the last two coats to assure you have no sheen.[/QUOTE

2 dusters
2 heavier
2 dusters and should be good to go? The video is very helpful and can't wait to get my Indiana shuffle on
I start building the curve screen tomorrow any problems with spraying a curved screen that I might run into? I am going with a 5X10 Sinatra substrate 6mm or can I go smaller 3mm? The radius of the screen will be 25.5 that I got from CAVX. I am excited about my Christmas project and hope it all comes together!

Hold on,,,,look for a response before the AM.

Meanwhile, can you post specifics about the screen's curved frame build?

thanks MissisippiMan of all I could find this looked like the easiest and have
a friend with a shop to get the job done. TR6 did this in 2007. Was going to
mount to the top the sinatra no masking and black felt the back wall for the over spill.
Going for the floating look. 120X51.5 130.5 Diagonal


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=933667&page=2

I am open to suggestions.

Looks good. Use the 6mm Sintra. Less flex, yet still easily bendable.

Painting onto the curvature is possible, but at each end you will have to adjust both angle and distance. Another issue is the drop-off at each end and the sides. When your at those points, a flush (...or nearly so...) run off area is needed so as to prevent what is called "Vortex-ing"... a swirling of paint at the edge that prevents an even lay down on the edges.

I gotta ask why the Curve? Anamorphic lens? Cosmetic appeal?

Of everything, getting rid of the drop-off while painting is the most critical. Otherwise, paint the Screen "on the Flat" and after it is well dried, then mount onto the Frame.

Have a Prisamasonic H-FE1500R lens and a short throw also I have seen one i n action
And like rhe effect. I will need to think about how I want to paint flat or curved. Number of coats is fine or only 1 heavy coat?

Well, your going to hang the entire assembly on the wall. So just hang the Sintra on the wall first.

It's that border-less idea that is making it more difficult. If you had even 1 extra inch on the top, just shooting a few screws through along the top edge would allow a flush lay against the wall. You might consider designing the screen so there is 2" space around the image.(...yeah, that means a slightly smaller, 116" x 49" 126" diagonal screen...) You could use that first for hanging the sheet on Drywall to paint, then to attach the screen firmly to the Curved Frame. Simple smooth-edged MDF Baseboard Trim cut down to 2.5" wide and wrapped in Velvet or ProtoStar could cover things up, and with the Black Background will still serve to provide the "Floating Image" effect.

.......and of course, it would allow you to disassemble the Sintra should you ever have to make any changes or repairs.

You really do not want to make your first attempt at painting a high performance screen contingent on being able to adjust spraying technique and compensating for "edge issues".

As someone who does these things for others, and often has to adjust on-the-fly, such a small adaptation as painting Flat on the wall, then screwing the Sintra down onto the Frame using the same holes, then adding the thin trim option to cover would be an obvious issue solver.

And well worth considering.

After thinking it over I am going to go with the frameless approach and go
for it. The ends will be tricky but going for maximum effect. The radius will be
7.4" at the end of the screen. Thanks for the advice and will attach 2 ft of cardboard to each side,top,and bottom to make sure I am going off the screen
the required distance and will drop down 4" on each row. The trick will be to keep the 16" of spraying distance as the screen curves out. Ended up going
with 1x10x10 and will do a center rib for support. Total cost for the materials
for the screen including the Graco sprayer 325.00. Here is a pic of the paint
supplies only took me 4 stores to find it all lol

MM so am I fine with 2 dusters 3 seconds across the screen,2 heavier 6 seconds, then a final 2 dusters?

Greg,

Play it safe and do 3 Dusters, let the 3rd dry completely, heat your work area as much as possible, then apply a Normal coat(...I hate the expression "Heavy"...conjures up disaster scenarios...) and then two Dusters.

Nice "paints" Photo....just might snag it for reference.

Hi MM & PB,

Which version of SF would you suggest if my target pj would be either Optoma GT750 or Panasonic AR100 for a 120" screen under moderate to strong ambient light environment.......SF2.5 5.0 with 1.2 gain?

Well....the Panny is by far the better unit, albiet also the more expensive of the two. There isn't enough difference in Lumens on the Optoma to warrant it's selection in conjunction with using a darker SF. What really makes the difference is the Panny's better contrast, which combined with 2800 lumens makes wonderful things happen.

If you can mount the Panny at / close to 12' 2" and achieve 35 fls, a SF v2.5 5.0 would perform splendidly. That would make a whole lot better sense anyway than using a PJ that has no Lens Shift, a 115% Lens Offset, no Zoom, and needs to be within 6' from the screen to give you 120" diagonal.

Did you know any of those considerations?

Thanks MM for the advise. Yes, I'm aware of all those considerations, I have read few reviews on these 2 pjs lately......btw, I noticed that there is a minor change/reverse in the ingredients of the SF mix, but I already bought the Rust-Oleum Metallic White, is it ok to use back it?

Never heard of the above, you must be thinking about "White Pearl"?

Anyway...the change involved the Liquitex Titainium White , which was dropped in favor of the Behr 1850 Flat Enamel.

Leastwise that's all I know of at present.

ya, it should be Rust-Oleum Metallic Accents White Pearl

Well then use it.....but don't abuse it.

MM thanks for final words of advice and encouragement. Should be done
and hung by next week.

Also heat should not be a problem using a heated paint booth to spray
the screen.