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Extend Your Own Sensor Bar - Page 6

post #151 of 213
Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Fuzz View Post

I just got mine tonight to. It came in a box with poor a english translation "High quality efficient of transmit cable". Right. Anyway the company that makes it is "Dragon". The cable is 6 ft long, and sounds about the same as yours, Todd. So it sounds like their are 2 sources, yours shipped a bit faster, and was 2 dollars cheaper, so it sounds like they win. I can finally put my sensor bar above my screen so that all my empty beer bottles don't block the signal! yay! Anyway, off to play some Super Paper Mario!

Yeah, that's the same one I got. I was very entertained by all the "Chinglish" all over the box.
post #152 of 213
Hello everybody. I was about to cut my wired sensor bar cable to attach it to an DC power, but now i have a doubt. I tried with 2 candles, and the wii won't show the "selection hands" on the screen. So before i proceed, if i disconnect the sensor bar from the wii, but i give it power either by a 9volt battery, or by some connection to the electricity on my house, if i have done all fine, would it work? For sure? Or do i still need a second sensor bar connected to the wii? Thanks.
post #153 of 213
Quote:
Originally Posted by kwanbis View Post

Hello everybody. I was about to cut my wired sensor bar cable to attach it to an DC power, but now i have a doubt. I tried with 2 candles, and the wii won't show the "selection hands" on the screen. So before i proceed, if i disconnect the sensor bar from the wii, but i give it power either by a 9volt battery, or by some connection to the electricity on my house, if i have done all fine, would it work? For sure? Or do i still need a second sensor bar connected to the wii? Thanks.

For sure. I have one of third party wireless sensor bars and everything works fine despite nothing being actually plugged into the Wii sensor bar port.
post #154 of 213
No electrical experience here, so pardon the dumb question: if I hooked up 2 sensor bars to the one wire coming from the Wii (by cutting, stripping, and splicing together so that the positive from the Wii is connected to the positive of both bars, etc.) would that work? There seems to be enough power to do it, but am I missing something from a basic electrical standpoint?
post #155 of 213
JoshuaL: You'd want to run a wire from the notched side of the Wii to the notched side of sensor 1, then the unnotched side of the wii to the unnotched side of sensor 2, and a jumper between the unnotched side of sensor 1 to the notched side of sensor 2. It will create a circuit in series-- similar to stacking batteries in a remote nipple-to-butt.

Also, I just got my Nextronics wireless bar. It has a 3v 200ma AC adapter with it (I hadn't seen power posted anywhere on it so here it is). It works, but no better than my Nintendo stock sensor bar I wired to a 9 volt battery-- matter off act, it acctually gets a shorter range than my stock unit. Very disappointing.

For my stock unit, I used the 'fill the connector' method, but did it more in the spirit/idea of Christmas lights using a piece of speaker cable, an off on switch, and 9v battery. I basically just stripped the end of the speaker wire, folded the stripped ends to the outside like hair (very similar to how the small Christmas tree lights connect to their socket with the 2 pieces of wire coming out from underneath the bulb's base), and shoved it in and taped it-- worked great, and is still solid after 2 months.

I'm still not getting the stability or range with the sensor I'd like-- I'm on a 112" screen at 16:9. The Nextronics unit makes the finger 'disappear' at a shorter distance than my Nintendo&9V solution. Interested to see what other non-battery solutions have been concocted. Still like the idea of a 5 or 7 led cluster on a wider (maybe 24-30"?) base. Anyone done that yet? Or more importantly, anyone shared their results of that yet?

Open to other suggestions too.

Murph
post #156 of 213
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murphy74 View Post

JoshuaL: You'd want to run a wire from the notched side of the Wii to the notched side of sensor 1, then the unnotched side of the wii to the unnotched side of sensor 2, and a jumper between the unnotched side of sensor 1 to the notched side of sensor 2. It will create a circuit in series-- similar to stacking batteries in a remote nipple-to-butt.

Also, I just got my Nextronics wireless bar. It has a 3v 200ma AC adapter with it (I hadn't seen power posted anywhere on it so here it is). It works, but no better than my Nintendo stock sensor bar I wired to a 9 volt battery-- matter off act, it acctually gets a shorter range than my stock unit. Very disappointing.

For my stock unit, I used the 'fill the connector' method, but did it more in the spirit/idea of Christmas lights using a piece of speaker cable, an off on switch, and 9v battery. I basically just stripped the end of the speaker wire, folded the stripped ends to the outside like hair (very similar to how the small Christmas tree lights connect to their socket with the 2 pieces of wire coming out from underneath the bulb's base), and shoved it in and taped it-- worked great, and is still solid after 2 months.

I'm still not getting the stability or range with the sensor I'd like-- I'm on a 112" screen at 16:9. The Nextronics unit makes the finger 'disappear' at a shorter distance than my Nintendo&9V solution. Interested to see what other non-battery solutions have been concocted. Still like the idea of a 5 or 7 led cluster on a wider (maybe 24-30"?) base. Anyone done that yet? Or more importantly, anyone shared their results of that yet?

Open to other suggestions too.

Murph

I followed SpeedyHTPCs suggestion for putting two sensor bars together end to end with the 2 LEDs in the center covered by electrical tape to extend the range and it worked perfectly for a larger screen and a greater distance. My cursor is now rock solid at about 16 feet back from my 92" screen. Since you have both the Nintendo sensor bar and the Nextronics bar (same as I do) give this a try.
post #157 of 213
Thanks, Bear. I also couldn't resist opening the nextronics bar-- it's just the 2 LED's on each side with a 50 ohm resistor on a circuit board on each end (4 led's, 2 resistors, run in series). Not an electronics wiz, but thinking about running the 2 nextronics clusters stacked to give a 4 LED cluster and hte Nintendo bar at the other of the 'extended' bar to see what happens. I'll report back with my results. I'm in roughly 12 feet from the screen when playing normally, or maybe as far as 20 feet if I'm behind the couch and such. So far, the nentendo bar and 9 volt have been the best combo-- not sure if a 9 volt battery is strong enough to limit the life of the sensor bar, nor have ai disassembled the sensor bar (it's pretty wrapped up in electrical tape from my battery hack). I may even try ot post a picture if everything seems to be working out.... (crossing fingers)

Murph
post #158 of 213
Quote:
Originally Posted by kwanbis View Post

Hello everybody. I was about to cut my wired sensor bar cable to attach it to an DC power, but now i have a doubt. I tried with 2 candles, and the wii won't show the "selection hands" on the screen.

This depends on how far apart you placed the candles. The remote's camera isn't wide angled so it cannot see two points that are far apart.

There is a limit to the end to end sensor bar placement that I have. You can't play within 3 ft of the screen. The remote cannot see.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Murphy74 View Post

JoshuaL: You'd want to run a wire from the notched side of the Wii to the notched side of sensor 1, then the unnotched side of the wii to the unnotched side of sensor 2, and a jumper between the unnotched side of sensor 1 to the notched side of sensor 2. It will create a circuit in series-- similar to stacking batteries in a remote nipple-to-butt.

Wouldnt hooking it up in series double the resistance? There are resistors suited for 12v coming from the Wii in the bar.

I thought hooking it up in parallel is the best way. The AC adaptor would be able to handle both bars. I'm not certain if the Wii can handle it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Murphy74 View Post

thinking about running the 2 nextronics clusters stacked to give a 4 LED cluster and hte Nintendo bar at the other of the 'extended' bar to see what happens.

I also have the nextronics bar and I noticed that it does not have good angle of refraction. Try tilting the bar up so that it is facing your remote directly instead of laying flat. In my experiment the Nextronics bar is crap because I found that the remote cannot see the LEDs at an angle.

So with that, stacking two Nextronics bars wouldnt work that well either. But you may be able to get by since your screen is smaller and distance is closer. By stacking the bars you increase the angles a bit.
post #159 of 213
So, Nobody else sells a better sensor bar yet? I've read all over and cant find something that is good for 15+ feet. I have a 119" front projector. The stock unit jitters a bit. I'm hoping to find a better 3rd party sensor bar. I thought the Nextronics one was the best, but I keep reading posts like this one that shoots it down. I moved my glass coffee table out of the way, but it still mostly sucks when I'm all the way to my back wall/couch.

I read the Kyko one is the most powerful unit but is battery powered only. Does anyone sell a AA to AC adapter? (fake batteries with wires attached) I can live with that if the Nyko is truely the most powerful sensor bar money can bay. (non home brew, ready to use) I read the Nextronics one is more powerful in battery mode too so ????

EDIT: I found this guys blog post but he doesnt list what the brand name is or who makes it
http://www.halfbakery.com/idea/ACsault_20and_20Battery
(this guy added the link below after I emailed him)

EDIT2: Ok this is close, but it uses AUTO power
http://www.qcavionix.com/be-aa.php

EDIT3 The Battery Eliminator guys said they have a new AC option that is not yet listed on the web site but they are taking orders.

"Jon,
Thanks for your inquiry.
Yes, we do have AC options for our standard battery eliminator products. They are just not yet on our site. How many AA cells does your application require? We have a 2 cell unit and one that will do
1-6 cells. We also have 9v.
-Scott
QC Avionix"

Anyone Anyone?
post #160 of 213
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedyHTPC View Post


Wouldnt hooking it up in series double the resistance? There are resistors suited for 12v coming from the Wii in the bar.

I thought hooking it up in parallel is the best way. The AC adaptor would be able to handle both bars. I'm not certain if the Wii can handle it.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
So with that, stacking two Nextronics bars wouldnt work that well either. But you may be able to get by since your screen is smaller and distance is closer. By stacking the bars you increase the angles a bit.

On the resistors, I didn't think it mattered, since they are simply there to keep too much current from flowing and burning up the IR LEDs. Could be wrong on that though.

Also, the stacking method, although I haven't had time to try yet, was theoretically to be used to give the IR effect a larger cluster to be picked up by the Wiimote. It wasn't about distance or screen size. I'ev also noticed that the wiimote picks up IR signal from my halogen tracklighting I use in the basement viewing room. Haven't tweeked or played with the brightness though-- but should be fun, they're on a dimmer.

Hopefully I can post back some info by the weekend. Thanks all for the good conversation and suggestions.

Murph
post #161 of 213
Quote:
Originally Posted by tryingtimes View Post

I see - at least it doesn't put a big "Sensor bar not connected" sign up there, which means that if you manage to power the bar, it should work (providing the Wii doesn't need to receive any info).


The Wii doesn't get any input from the sensor bar at all (as far as I know) it just powers the infared leds in the sensor bar that the wiimote picks up on. Makes a whole lot more sense when you realize that the remote is a receiver instead of a transmitter like i originally thought.

Also means you can use the sensitivity setting screen on the console options to go find random IR sources around your house.
post #162 of 213
Does anyone use the Nyko? I had a few questions.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post11255830
post #163 of 213
The LEDs are all DC powered. So yes you should be able to power the Nyko with a wall brick. Just find one that has the same power as the sum of all the batteries.
post #164 of 213
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedyHTPC View Post

The LEDs are all DC powered. So yes you should be able to power the Nyko with a wall brick. Just find one that has the same power as the sum of all the batteries.

Once the Nyko is on AC power full time, can we disable the power savings beep?
(cut wire inside, or remove speaker etc)
post #165 of 213
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedyHTPC View Post

Wouldnt hooking it up in series double the resistance? There are resistors suited for 12v coming from the Wii in the bar.

I thought hooking it up in parallel is the best way. The AC adaptor would be able to handle both bars. I'm not certain if the Wii can handle it.

OK, I just tried hooking 2 sensor bars in series connected to the Wii. It worked close up, but was not bright enough past 6 feet or so. I'm going to try parallel, but want to make sure I understand the concept... Is that just hooking the positive from the Wii to the positive of both sensor bars and same with negative? Or is there something else to it?
post #166 of 213
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshuaL View Post

No electrical experience here, so pardon the dumb question: if I hooked up 2 sensor bars to the one wire coming from the Wii (by cutting, stripping, and splicing together so that the positive from the Wii is connected to the positive of both bars, etc.) would that work? There seems to be enough power to do it, but am I missing something from a basic electrical standpoint?

Impatient person that I am, I tried what I originally proposed above (I assumed that that was the basic definition of parallel). And, it worked! Viewing through my Sony camera looked to be equally as bright as the non-modified sensor bar. I moved as far back as our living room would allow (10-12 feet) and there was no issue with stability at all. So, to answer my original question: it looks like the Wii can power two sensor bars at the same time. Cool.

Now, I'm going to transfer it to the basement (where my home theater is mid-construction) and use it for my future 114" screen. I'll likely be putting it on top of the screen, unless anyone has encountered any problems with top positioning on a large screen.

PS This thread is awesome.
post #167 of 213
Quote:
Originally Posted by jazjon View Post

Once the Nyko is on AC power full time, can we disable the power savings beep?
(cut wire inside, or remove speaker etc)

Sorry I'm not sure how the beep works. I guess you can just cut the speaker without harming anything. It is annoying.
post #168 of 213
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshuaL View Post

Impatient person that I am, I tried what I originally proposed above (I assumed that that was the basic definition of parallel). And, it worked!

Yes, thats what I mean too. I was referring to Murphy's method of end to end which is in series - a method that will drain the voltage of the Wii. In parallel, the amps are drained but voltage is constant. I was pretty sure the Wii can supply two bars worth of amps (but I didnt want to experiment).

You also verified that a cluster of LEDs is better than one.
post #169 of 213
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshuaL View Post

So, to answer my original question: it looks like the Wii can power two sensor bars at the same time. Cool.

Now, I'm going to transfer it to the basement (where my home theater is mid-construction) and use it for my future 114" screen. I'll likely be putting it on top of the screen, unless anyone has encountered any problems with top positioning on a large screen.

To update, I successfully transferred the dual sensor bars to the top of my 114" Carada screen in the basement (wires routed through drop ceiling). Played Metroid Prime 3 for a few hours and everything was rock solid from 15 feet back. Very happy the Wii supports dual bars on its own, as it made things much simpler!
post #170 of 213
Regarding the idea of using the USB bus' power for the sensor bar: As is known, it provides 5 V. On an original Nintendo bar this was not bright enough. 7 V or so is needed, so I'm looking into a DC-DC booster chip (want to avoid the power brick... seems very wasteful).
post #171 of 213
Its not? funny..Why am I able to power it with 4.5v plus im at 16ft back? Also why are you using the USB to power it?
post #172 of 213
I want this for a HTPC, not a Wii, so I thought it'd be nicer and cleaner to use a free USB port instead (the power brick thing works, but it seems wasteful to me, plus if you use USB and the PC is off - then the bar is off). I wonder if they've made different versions of the sensor bars. I got this one from Nintendo directly.
post #173 of 213
There used to be P/S for PCs with a plug ala receiver style where it would turn off when the P/S is off. I would think thats easier to do. Anyway I think the USB doesnt have enough amps.
post #174 of 213
I tried the "wii by candlelight" thing, and IT IS TIGHT!

I also experimented with wiring some lcds to 9v batteries, and the only problem is the light causes distractionunless "invisible" leds are used.
post #175 of 213
Speedy HTPC: USB can provide 2.5 Watts of power. At 5 V this is more enough than enough "amps" to turn on those pesky little IR LEDs. The problem here is not the current, but that 5 V was not enough voltage.

So a friend wired the original sensor bar to a 9 V AC/DC adapter brick. This worked well but after leaving it on overnight, it looks like the sensor bar died. Perhaps one of the LEDs burned. So it seems that 9 V may be too much for the sensor bar. I can see if I can repair the sensor bar but at this point I think it might be easier to buy a cheap third party bar. I only found "wireless" (read: battery operated) sensor bars out there. Does anyone know of a Wii sensor bar replacement that just comes with a wall plug?

Also, SpeedyHTPC, can you elaborate on this P/S thing? I'm not sure what you are talking about.

One more thing: for this project (which is on a Mac mini) I used RemoteBuddy. The software is surprisingly good and worth checking out.
post #176 of 213
I have assembled a pair of wireless sensor box for play Wii on projector. I did some test on the distance and placement of the boxes. http://www.wiichat.com/nintendo-wii-...ance-test.html
post #177 of 213
The difficulty with the soldering connections may be due to
the insulation coating on the thin wires in the wii sensor bar cable.

I snipped our wii sensor cable and peeled back the plastic and connected
the two wires inside to a 12V DC power adaptor with alligator clips.
It worked momentarily we think, but then stopped working.
(We used the "adjust sensitivity" mode in the wii settings to experiment
because it gives a clear picture of whether the wii sensor bar is working.)
Thinking that the problem might be the colored wire coating,
I held each of them over a gas flame in my kitchen for a couple seconds,
(kids don't try this at home...).
This seemed to burn off the coating leaving scorched copper.
Then I reconnected the alligator clips to the scorched wires
(red +, copper -), and it worked fine!

Ironically, the wii "sensor bar" is not a sensor at all.
post #178 of 213
I apologize if this has been posted already....

So I was browsing this thread yesterday and this morning since my wireless sensor bar goes through batteries like crazy (kids leave it on alot) and actually ordered the power supply from the RatShack and was going to mod my OEM sensor bar. I then saw the post putting two end to end and though about doing that. I mentioned this in my build thread since there was some discussion on the Wii. A fellow AVSer posted a link to this:

http://www.videogamebundle.com/sensorbarhd.html

Here are the specs (wider than the standard bar):

Size: 15" x 1/2" x 3/4"
Color: Grey, Black, or White
Range: up to 30 feet.
Power: AC adapter, or optional battery pack (sold separately)

Not sure if it has an on/off switch though, but its an easy mod. I just ordered one and will report back.

Bud
post #179 of 213
Definitely let me know how that works for you. I built my own last weekend trying to get farther range. Unfortunately I ma not sure the specs on the LED's I got. I hooked ti up to a wall wart at first, putting out 17 volts, and I was able to go back 25 feet, but hooking into the Wii's 12v gave me less range than the standard bar. At this point I would just like to buy one that works well. It would be nice to find something that I could use hooked to the Wii for on/off. Maybe I could wire up a transistor to turn the bar on through the Wii Sensor port.
post #180 of 213
Absolutely.

Bud
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