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Extend Your Own Sensor Bar - Page 4

post #91 of 213
The Wii sensor bar is not actually a sensor at all - it just has 2 clusters of IR LEDs in it. So your existing IR sensor doesn't do the same job.
You will have to either include the original sensor bar or do some modifications as found on a few threads on here.
post #92 of 213
Quote:
Originally Posted by CPanther95 View Post

6% penetration number is a few years old. Last year, or this year is the first year that there are more HDTVs sold than non-HDTVs in the US. Penetration is just about 20% now.

Of course a substantial percentage of those HDTV owners have no source for HD programming (and a substantial percentage of those think they are watching HD anyway)

Not to mention WHAT is considered a HDTV. That %20 includes 640x480 small 15" screens and even smaller units.

I have to agree with the poster that MOST people with HD aren't running projectors. I know personally only 1 person with a HD projector and about 40 with HD crts, lcds, rptvs. Most of those HD displays are 32" or smaller.

I have a 55" HD RPTV. I got the Wii last Thursday. I can't imagine trying to play it with a front projector system. Most of the time I'm standing up in front of the image and I would think that my body would "shadow" the projection.

What I want is a longer range on the remote. 8' is about max for the sensor bar and Wiimotes in my family room. I don't care if it's wireless or not since the sensor bar sits on top of my TV just below the center channel speaker. I want to be comfortable in my recliner which is about 14' front the TV screen. I'm hoping a homemade IR projector will give me that.
post #93 of 213
Soemthing else. People keep mentioning going to radio shack and buying a multi-voltage AC adapter.

Am I the only person in the world who saves all those old AC adapters from other electronic devices like cordless phones, kids toys, etc. when they died?

I have at least 6 which put out 800ma and 7.2v.
post #94 of 213
If the sensor bar is just to allow the remote to triangulate the position in 3D, then to get further distance than the 8' stated in the manual, set the LEDs wider?
post #95 of 213
Quote:
Originally Posted by stromm View Post

Soemthing else. People keep mentioning going to radio shack and buying a multi-voltage AC adapter.

Am I the only person in the world who saves all those old AC adapters from other electronic devices like cordless phones, kids toys, etc. when they died?

I have at least 6 which put out 800ma and 7.2v.

Need to know how much ma the sensor bar needs. If too little, then you get nothing. I think some had too little amp and it didnt power up.
post #96 of 213
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedyHTPC View Post

Need to know how much ma the sensor bar needs. If too little, then you get nothing. I think some had too little amp and it didnt power up.

The sensor bar draws 85mA, and runs from the 12V rail in the Wii via a 50 ohm resistor. Therefore you could perfectly emulate the Wii supply to the sensor bar with any 12V DC supply with a 50 ohm resistor. The redish coloured wire in the sensor bar cable is positive, the copper coloured one is negative. The resistor could be in either wire, it's not important.

I've extended my sensor bar, cut the wire and spliced a telephone cable in the middle. This way I can run the sensor bar over the CAT5 run that goes from my hall cupboard (where the Wii and my media PC is) to the front of the lounge where the screen is.

Rayman complains about sitting too far from the screen (sensor bar) when I'm 3m back on the couch... so I've now built my own sensor bar, of sorts. I've mounted two groups of three standard IR LEDs in my alloy projection screen frame. The groups are 400mm apart (1.5ich times the length of the standard sensor bar) and the three LEDs are 10mm apart. The frame is black, the LEDs are black, as are their bezels so they are almost invisible. I can now play Rayman from my couch perfectly. The only issue is that I have to be fairly centred on the couch relative to the screen because the LEDs are quite narrow beamed. I've ordered some wider beam LEDs from Radio Spares which should be here next week.

As I said above the sensor bar is driven from the +12VA rail in the Wii. There is a 50 ohm series resistor in the Wii to protect it from any shorts or other stupidity. I did the sums and calculated that a 100 ohm resistor in series with three LEDs (in series) puts the right current (40-50mA) through the LEDs to get good output. So there's a 100 ohm resistor for each group of 3 LEDs in my replacement sensor bar.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stromm View Post

I have a 55" HD RPTV. I got the Wii last Thursday. I can't imagine trying to play it with a front projector system. Most of the time I'm standing up in front of the image and I would think that my body would "shadow" the projection..

I don't have a problem standing 3.5m from my screen playing tennis with my front projector mounted on the ceiling about 4m from the screen. It's awesome.
post #97 of 213
Quote:
Originally Posted by luke@smith.name View Post

I don't have a problem standing 3.5m from my screen playing tennis with my front projector mounted on the ceiling about 4m from the screen. It's awesome.


i'll second that!

nice work by the way.
post #98 of 213
I have a central component rack in the basement, my wii is located there, so all i did was split the sensor bar cable, solder cat-5 cables with jacks at the end, and plugged the cables into the cat-5 outlet that interconnect themselves.

Easiest thing to extend my connection.
post #99 of 213
I have a slightly different setup: no Wii... just the sensor bar and the Wiimote. I want to use them with a Mac mini that I hooked up to my LCD TV... so I can use the Wiimote as a mouse.
I could use a power brick as suggested here but it seems a little wasteful to have the power brick plugged in all the time.

So instead I'd like to use one of the free USB or Firewire ports in the back of the computer (clever!).
The Firewire port gives ~25 V. Too much.
The USB port gives 5 V. Has anyone tried powering the sensor bar with 5 V? Does it work?
post #100 of 213
Mine is running off 4.5V from an AC/DC adapter...
post #101 of 213
I have cut the wire for the sensor bar, i used about a 10' CAT5 cable to extend it. i separated the two wires from the wii sensor bar. i spliced them together to 2 CAT5 cables to extend the sensor bar, i don't have a solder kit so i figured i would just twist the wires together until i get a chance to solder them. I've done this numerous times and i can't get the sensor bar to work properly. I can only get it to work if i put the wiimote right up to the sensor bar but when i move back it doesn't detect it. I also changed the sensitivity on the wii sensor bar to the max and still no success.. any ideas what i could be doing wrong? I am getting frustrated, what seems like a simple task has been a headache for me.
Please give me some advice
post #102 of 213
The fine cables in the sensor bar are coated - have you made sure you've got rid of the coating before twisting? (it's almost invisible).
post #103 of 213
Quote:
Originally Posted by tryingtimes View Post

The fine cables in the sensor bar are coated - have you made sure you've got rid of the coating before twisting? (it's almost invisible).

The coating melts with solder, so the easiest way to make the connection reliably is with a soldering iron.
post #104 of 213
Hey all--thanks for the confidence booster

Just a heads up to those whom don't want to solder.

It just took me about 5 minutes to make my sensor bar a plug in. I took an old 7.5 V power adapter I had sitting around from a switch. Stripped wires from the power supply, stripped wires from the sensor bar. Hit the wires from the sensor bar with a match--don't let them burn too long, just half a second. You will know the coating is gone if the coloring of the wires goes away. Don't let them burn all the way down to the insulation of the wire--you only need half an inch.

Then I just twisted--taped--and was up and running just right!

Mike
post #105 of 213
Thanks for the hackjob JaremyP. I gave you props on my little page. You saved my Wii installation!

This is my first post with this account. No idea what my old account was. Anyway just go to my username (brickwagon) and add in the most common web extension, starts with a c, ends with an m and has an o in the middle.
post #106 of 213
does anyone else's sensor bar get hot? I have it hooked up to a 7.5v 650mAh DC adapter and mine gets nice and toasty.....if it is the power adapter is their a better one anyone recommends?

(I went and hooked it up to the power adapter before I had a chance to compare it to how it feels when connected directly to the Wii.....)
post #107 of 213
Quote:
Originally Posted by loker View Post

does anyone else's sensor bar get hot? I have it hooked up to a 7.5v 650mAh DC adapter and mine gets nice and toasty.....if it is the power adapter is their a better one anyone recommends?

(I went and hooked it up to the power adapter before I had a chance to compare it to how it feels when connected directly to the Wii.....)

I had the same results with the 12v adapter...freakin hot to the touch.

I found an old power adapter for my obsolete bluetooth headset (Jabra) that is rated at 5-6v (variable) and the solved the heat issue and it still works well.

Seems that anything over 7v is too much and will shorten the life of the LEDs in the bar.
post #108 of 213
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mando View Post

I had the same results with the 12v adapter...freakin hot to the touch.

I found an old power adapter for my obsolete bluetooth headset (Jabra) that is rated at 5-6v (variable) and the solved the heat issue and it still works well.

Seems that anything over 7v is too much and will shorten the life of the LEDs in the bar.

guess I will pick up a 6v radio shack adapter then.....so increasing voltage does nothing for range?
post #109 of 213
Hey guys,

I am using my WII ona projector and of course, the sensor bar cable is too short. I cut the sensor bar, spliced the 2 wires and soldered them to 2 CAT5 10' cables and the sensor bar only works when i point the wiimote extremely close to the sensor bar anything further than 6" and it won't work.
I played around with the sensitivity and still no success from anything further than 6"
when i use candles it works better, but i don't wanna be lighting candles everytime i play. does anybody have any idea what could be causing this? it worked fine when it was at it's orignal state just a little too short.
has anybody had this problem?
post #110 of 213
Quote:
Originally Posted by mextarzan View Post

Hey guys,

I am using my WII ona projector and of course, the sensor bar cable is too short. I cut the sensor bar, spliced the 2 wires and soldered them to 2 CAT5 10' cables and the sensor bar only works when i point the wiimote extremely close to the sensor bar anything further than 6" and it won't work.
I played around with the sensitivity and still no success from anything further than 6"
when i use candles it works better, but i don't wanna be lighting candles everytime i play. does anybody have any idea what could be causing this? it worked fine when it was at it's orignal state just a little too short.
has anybody had this problem?

A couple thoughts come to mind, but take them with a grain of salt, as I'm no expert. First - check to see the polarity is correct. Positive to Postive, Negative to Negative. If you've double-checked that, perhaps the twisted cat5 cable is canceling out the signal. Again, I'm no expert, but you might try a shorter cable as a test. Sorry if I wasn't any help.
post #111 of 213
post #112 of 213
Quote:
Originally Posted by blipszyc View Post

A couple thoughts come to mind, but take them with a grain of salt, as I'm no expert. First - check to see the polarity is correct. Positive to Postive, Negative to Negative. If you've double-checked that, perhaps the twisted cat5 cable is canceling out the signal. Again, I'm no expert, but you might try a shorter cable as a test. Sorry if I wasn't any help.

Hey,

well, I separated the CAT5 cables because it made sense that maybe with them being intertwined together would cancel the signal, i also made the CAT5 cables shorter to about 7' and soldered together with the sensor bar and again!!!! it only works from 6" away.. as soon as i move the wiimote back it loses the pointer on the screen. What seemed to be a simple task has become a pain in the ass.. i really dunno what is causing the WIImote not to be dectected at anything farther then 6 inches.. can anyone advise me please!! very frustrated!!
post #113 of 213
is there like a burn in period or something? because I have yet to change my power adapter and now my sensor bar barely gets warm compared to a few days ago where it was ridiculously hot.....
post #114 of 213
Quote:
Originally Posted by mextarzan View Post

Hey,

well, I separated the CAT5 cables because it made sense that maybe with them being intertwined together would cancel the signal, i also made the CAT5 cables shorter to about 7' and soldered together with the sensor bar and again!!!! it only works from 6" away.. as soon as i move the wiimote back it loses the pointer on the screen. What seemed to be a simple task has become a pain in the ass.. i really dunno what is causing the WIImote not to be dectected at anything farther then 6 inches.. can anyone advise me please!! very frustrated!!

Are you splicing the Cat5 back into the Wii connector and Wii? If so, before connecting the Sensor bar back up, check to see that the voltage is the same at the end of the cat5 as it is coming out of the Wii. I think someone posted earlier in this thread around 9-11 volts. If not, the length might be causing the problem, even at 7'. (I doubt it, but maybe) Can you confirm that the bar is even on after you've soldered everything?
post #115 of 213
Quote:

Either will do. The cheaper one will do fine.
post #116 of 213
Quote:
Originally Posted by blipszyc View Post

Are you splicing the Cat5 back into the Wii connector and Wii? If so, before connecting the Sensor bar back up, check to see that the voltage is the same at the end of the cat5 as it is coming out of the Wii. I think someone posted earlier in this thread around 9-11 volts. If not, the length might be causing the problem, even at 7'. (I doubt it, but maybe) Can you confirm that the bar is even on after you've soldered everything?

Yes I am splicing the CAT5 and soldering it to the sensor bar and the other end to the WII connector. I made sure that the polarity isn't crossed.
How can I check the voltage? How do i know what voltage it's coming out at?

Thanks for your help.
post #117 of 213
You'll need what is called a Multimeter. (Here) To measure it from the Wii, plug the connector back in and measure it at the wires. Then splice in the Cat5 and measure again, and make sure they're the same. If not, there is either something wrong with your soldering or the cat5 isn't carrying the electricity properly and you may need another kind of wire.
post #118 of 213
I have finally finished my sensor bar conversion. Here are some images of what I have created, This first image shows the guts of the simplistic box. I have added a red LED to indicate power as well as a switch allowing me to turn the bar off. You can see the LEDs in the sensor bar lit up in this image.



However, this image with the flash disabled shows them better:



Now let's box it up:



Turn it over to hide the screws:



And test that switch out. Do the Sensor bar LEDs go off?



Why yes they do! It's hard to tell in the image, but the red LED goes off as well. Yaaay! Project complete. Now I'll just toss this into my theater, plug it into the wall and game away.

reaper
post #119 of 213
Very nice reaper.

In case someone isn't comfortable making their own, there is a wireless sensor bar on Amazon, release data March 5. Search for "Wii Wireless Sensor Bar"
post #120 of 213
Quote:
Originally Posted by jc004d View Post

Nice. I did this this afternoon, replacing the power adapter with a 800mA multi-voltage from radio shack at 7.5v (pn 273-1667). Works like a charm, and is now sitting on top of my screen where I get much better response than the previous spot on my coffee table.

Another note is that I had to melt off the plastic coating on the red and orange wires, after they were seperated, before they would work.


I concur. I picked up this radio shack unit, hooked up positive and grounds to their respective wires on the sensor bar, and it worked perfectly. I do unplug the thing when it's not in use (I'm EXTREMELY paranoid about fires), but I couldn't ask for a better solution.
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