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HD1000U Tweakers and Calibration Thread - Page 6

post #151 of 1453
After fooling with it for quite a while here's my custom Color Temp I'm using with my Scientific Atlanta Explorer 8300HD. This looks the best to me compared to all the others. Try it out. Tell me what you think.

C: R = 7
C: G = -1
C: B = 4
B: R = 1
B: G = 0
B: B = -1
post #152 of 1453
lilmarvin4064 - Can you post ALL the settings that define this configuration? (Gamma, Colortemp, black adjust, contrast, brightness, etc?).

Posters - please include screen type as well. Although this thread is new, people a year from now will want to refer to it to set up their HD1000's.... Thanks!
post #153 of 1453
lilmarvin

Those settings will reduce green in the grayscale - however you did it by increasing blue and red. If blue and red were already maxed out - then anything bright blue or bright red is now going to be cartoony without any gradients. If you used 100% colorbars for your visual adjustments - this is not a problem - but it can be a problem if you used 75% colorbars.

If you have DisplayMate it has some RGB patterns you can use to make sure that you are not clipping your colors, or any decent photo program can whip up a color gradient. When you have a sensor this is easier to set - you are maxed when increasing the gain no longer registers a change on the sensor when reading the 100% pattern.

And nobody should use your settings - everyones lamp will be different and possibly even the baseline in their firmware. I have never calibrated the same model projector and got the same settings - and I have never had a projector have the same settings at 0 hours compared to burn-in at 100 hours. It is very likely since it is only a few clicks off that someone will make theirs worse rather than better because they overshot their target - or worse was initially off in that direction they are "correcting" to - what if their lamp/screen/firmware resulted in magenta whites - your settings would make things worse!

If the manufacturer was able to provide presets that worked for everybody - they would have done so. The reality is that indeed the current presets are a result of complaints that for most people Mitsu presets were way too blue - but in getting closer they appear to have overshot for some people - that now complain that things are too green. It is not that some posters are overly sensitive to green - it is that for some lamp/screens the presets will be closer than for other lamps/screens. The reason Yellow is the best color to detect this is that most people can tell a banana yellow - it is easier than trying to figure out if Cyan or Magenta or right. But you need to look at those colors too to make sure that RGB is properly balanced to get CYM all right.

The general idea though if you have green pushed greyscale resulting in green pushed cyans and yellows - you need to cut greens. How much depends on your lamp and screen - which are the analog components in your supposedly digital system.

Someone else may also be too bluish or too reddish greyscale as well resulting in cyanish or yellowish greyscale. This is evident in your settings in that Red/Blue are not balanced - so yours was more cyanish green than yellowish green. Rather than copy settings which can get someone else way off - it is better to use the colorbars and look at secondary colors yourself.

This trick is assuming you have an RGB source with no known tint errors - otherwise you have to get tint corrected first - which you cannot do on Mitsu on progressive digital inputs so hopefully your digital sources are correct or they may have their own adjustments. Tint is aligned using the blue filters on cyan/magenta in the standard colorbars.

A thread that is a year long with different grayscale settings every week to "try" is not helping anyone. Grayscale (RGB gain/offset) are for your lamp/screen, while brightness/contrast/tint/color are for your sources to line up with the display. All the other presets will work for everybody (like set overscan to 100%)- but these adjustments are ones that posting them you wasted your time and the readers time deluding everyone that these are settings to calibrate their projector.

Instead post how you used test patterns to arrive at calibrated settings so everyone can do the same - that will help everybody.
post #154 of 1453
Well said. I very much agree and think it's about time someone actually cleared up that misconception.
post #155 of 1453
post #156 of 1453
REAL gives me 1:1 on my HTPC so I use it for my 720p HDMI sources. Did not notice cropping on my calibration disc (DVE). 16:9 is the one that scales on my HTPC and text not as sharp. REAL gives me sharp tex via 1280X720X60Hz DVI->HDMI.
post #157 of 1453
Huey

Funny - DaGamePimp just said the opposite unless I misread him - and he has the HC3000 though....been too long since i looked at it with the video generator - so I don't remember what that setting did!
post #158 of 1453
A couple of notes:

1. "Real" definitely scales the image on my setup (HTPC connected DVI--->HDMI, 1280x720p). I think I'm using 16x9.

2. In regards to greyscale adjustments, going up even 3 or 4 clicks on the red contrast will start crushing reds on my 1000u. You can see this clearly in the title menu of the "Cars" DVD. Lightning McQueen is bright red and detail will start crushing out of his paint job. Not as scientific as a test pattern, but it's obvious if you look closely.
post #159 of 1453
My impression also was that I got the sharpest image at REAL 100% using my PC thru HDMI at 720p settings. I will try and verify tonight with a pattern of 720p test screen of single pixel lines.

One question -- Can anyone tell me what the Setup -- ON/OFF setting means?
post #160 of 1453
The manual says that REAL display the image in their original size as input. But 16:9 may display image that is "linearly stretched"

I'm interested to find out why SET UP feature at 7.5% needs to be canceled for US? Why set it OFF when image is dark? What is the mechanism?
post #161 of 1453
post #162 of 1453
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kwong Sum View Post

The manual says that REAL display the image in their original size as input. But 16:9 may display image that is "linearly stretched"

I'm interested to find out why SET UP feature at 7.5% needs to be canceled for US? Why set it OFF when image is dark? What is the mechanism?

The problem is that real world experience differs from the manual. If the manual were correct, it doesn't explain why REAL causes the 720p signal to be large and cropped where the 16x9 setting results in a smaller image that fits in the screen. The manual says that 16x9 should "linearly stretch" the image. That just isn't what occurs.

The manual also doesn't list support for 1080p input signal. It is supported over component and HDMI. It is scaled very nicely down to 720p for display.

The reason the "Setup" feature is adjusted is based on the NTSC definition of black. The Japanese TV standard has a differing definition. It's a very nice option to have on this PJ as it allows us to choose the best black level for any given input source.
post #163 of 1453
I agree that "REAL" seems to crop pixels. <--- experimentally found out.

So, we should set it to 7.5% for US NTSC type DVD or should I leave it to OFF for US/CDN type DVD player.
post #164 of 1453
I leave mine on 3.75% for most movies as a good compromise for black level.

I think depending on how you have your desktop set, REAL mode may crop your desktop. On my HTPC setup via DVI->HDMI 1280X720X60, REAL gives me sharp text where as 16:9 gives me less sharp text suggesting the former gives me 1:1 pixel matching. On video, toggling between REAL and 16:9 does little for my eyes (very little change in clarity or size).
post #165 of 1453
What is the purpose of the overscan setting(97%-100%)? I just got my HD1000 yesterday, and am trying to get everything set properly. It keeps defaulting back to 97%. Which setting is preferred and why? How do you keep it from switching? Also, what is the cross hatch pattern for? Thanks.
post #166 of 1453
overscan zooms the picture electronically so you don't see the border of the original picture.


at 97%, you see 97% of the original signal, with 3 % being cut off.

100% is optimal if you have a perfect input signal.

If you see skewing at the top, or white lines that look like interference or noise on the top (common with Cable, DirectvHD) then use 97%

Can't tell you how to save the setting - I don't have an HD1000U
post #167 of 1453
Thanks Jack. Does anyone know if Art's settings at Projectorreviews.com were from HDMI or component? I'm using component, so I'm wondering if they'd even be close. I'm running my HD satellite and 480p DVD player(both component) into my receiver to switch, then running one component cable to projector. Would I be better off running one to the VGA/component input and one to the regular component input of projector? After calibrating the DVD player, I went to view the HD satellite and it was too bright. Or should I just leave it how it is and use one of the memory settings for one of them? I was hoping to keep it as simple to use as possible for when my wife or kids use the projector. Thanks.
post #168 of 1453
Anybody?
post #169 of 1453
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim McC View Post

Anybody?

Jim,

I tried Art's settings on my component connected Hd 1000 and found I like the otb settings better.

Henry
post #170 of 1453
Thanks Henry. What about my other questions, any opinion? What OTB settings are you using? I read thru this whole thread to see what most people are using for settings, but I find no clear winner for most of them. Especially Gamma mode, color temp and Brilliant Color. I've tried color temps warm, medium and cool, and they all look too green. I tried Art's settings and they look better, but they look a little too green also.
post #171 of 1453
Jim, I would vote for using the setting preset over the second input on the projector - here's why....

if you use the second input, you HAVE to change both the receiver and the projector to change from DVD to Satellite. This will likely throw off things for a family member at least once....

If you go the memory setting option - then that becomes OPTIONAL - ie. a family member who doesn't know better can still switch inputs from one to the other on the reciever.

Since both of the above scenarios require more than one action for 'optimal viewing' I'd consider a cheap Logitech Harmony remote - and program the function 'watch a DVD' to switch the reciever, and set the memory that has the settings for DVD on the projector.

then do the same for 'Watch Satellite' and you've now got the best of both worlds - one button switching with the proper settings.
post #172 of 1453
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim McC View Post

Thanks Henry. What about my other questions, any opinion? What OTB settings are you using? I read thru this whole thread to see what most people are using for settings, but I find no clear winner for most of them. Especially Gamma mode, color temp and Brilliant Color. I've tried color temps warm, medium and cool, and they all look too green. I tried Art's settings and they look better, but they look a little too green also.

You probably need to try to come up with your own settings since each projector is different, but these are mine which I derived from comparing my 1000 side by side with my 4805.

CR: 0
CG: -10
CB: -13
BR: -7
BG: 2
BB: 2

Keep brilliant color at 3 or below.

The thing to realize (that I don't think most do), is that the "user" color temp starts with settings closer to the "medium" setting, not "warm". So you have to make a big correction on the "user" setting like I show above. You'll also need to re-adjust your contrast/brightness with those settings.
post #173 of 1453
One thing to note also. I've done this comparison twice now. The first time when the projector was brand new (near zero hour bulb) and then the 2nd time with about 50hrs on the bulb.

The biggest difference I saw was that, as has been noted in various threads, the red level had dropped significantly after 50hrs. So if you have a very low hr bulb, then it may be worth waiting until 50-100hrs before worrying about any excess red in the image as that may fade out over time.
post #174 of 1453
hi there
i am just about to buy the hd1000u,
earlier someone said that while using either s video or composite
that they could not change the contrast or brightness settings,
can someone confirm this,
if this was so, might go with hd70 instead,
regards
post #175 of 1453
Thanks talon95. How did you come up with those RGB contrast/brightness numbers? Did you eyeball it? I asked in the Calibration section, and was told you can't do it with a calibration disc, that you need special equipment. I don't understand how the contrast and brightness settings(for each color) affect the image. Thanks.
post #176 of 1453
If you want to know how these adjustments affect the image - simply put up a standard color bars pattern and play with the controls. You will figure out what they do to a picture. Without a reference you will not know what settings are right for you.
post #177 of 1453
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim McC View Post

Thanks talon95. How did you come up with those RGB contrast/brightness numbers? Did you eyeball it? I asked in the Calibration section, and was told you can't do it with a calibration disc, that you need special equipment. I don't understand how the contrast and brightness settings(for each color) affect the image. Thanks.

I compared it side by side with my previous Infocus 4805 projector (both connected via DVI on my HTPC). The 4805's have good OTB calibration, so I used it as a reference.

Kras is right about needing a reference. Heck, it's a little tough to get them to match up even with them side by side. I found I had to use a fairly wide range of material to get it right. It's easy to fix something, but screw up something else.

I used Monsters Inc (per Kras' advice) along with Avia and 2 or 3 other movies to come up with my settings.

I will say too, my user settings are only a modest improvement over the default "warm" color setting. As I stated before, if your 1000 is under 100 hours, I'd wait and see if the excess red problem tends goes away.
post #178 of 1453
Thanks talon. I don't have excess red, I have excess green. With your settings above, what do you have Brilliant Color set at?
post #179 of 1453
I noticed that many members that posted their settings show that they were able to adjust their settings for "color". That area does not highlight for me to adjust. Are others having this problem?
post #180 of 1453
hypothetical Q: if you had your HD1000 set up so that at maximum zoom, a 2.35 ar movie exactly fit a 2.35 ratio screen, is there enough range on the zoom to un-zoom and make a 16:9 movie the same height on the screen as the 2.35 movie, but obviously narrower?

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