B&W Owner's Thread - Page 360

I have the opportunity to buy a mint pair of used CM4 towers and a CMC 2-way center channel speaker for $900 bucks. Anyone care to share their opinion on if this is a halfway decent deal? Thank you, kindly.

Hello everyone,

I have a question concerning center speakers and my setup.

SETUP:

684's
686's
ASW610
RX-A2000
TV sits approx. 11 feet away from couch

Choices for center are htm61 or cm centre

I keep going back and fourth on my decision. I researched the negatives concerning the 61 but after a demo I realize my ears are not keen enough to pick up on it though. I thought the cm center sounded good but it wouldn't match my set so I'm wondering how much if any would the mismatch decrease overall sq. I could one day see an upgrade to the cm series but not in the foreseeable future. 685 is not a option. So which center should I go with? Any input would be appreciated!

Finally got the chance to really listen to it. The setup for movies is really great, very clear dialog and great bass. A big improvement over the Bose center and crappy sub I had before.

Music is very clear, but maybe a touch bright. Overall very happy w the current setup.

If I move them a little closer to the back wall, will I get a better bass response from the speakers? Now they are about 20 inches from it and slightly towed in....

speakers need time to break in..best to turn off any built in room correction or auto set up in receiver and do it manually. Make sure your speakers are set to large for fronts, this will increase bass response in 2 channel stereo.If you can use the 2 channel analog out from your cd player to a direct in analog input on your AV or set your AV's option to pure direct for whatever analog in you can use for your cd player it will sound much better for music.I think your distance from wall is just fine.Try a few tweaks as mentioned above.

I am just curious as to how you guys think the Nautilus series compares to the Diamond series? I would guess that the main difference is in the top end. Are the mid range and low end pretty similar?

Also, how does the Nautilus htm1 compare to the htm2d2? Are they the same size? `

HTM62. It's very under-rated and a lot better than you'd think. Per B&W:The HTM62 "is tailor-made to partner either the 684 floorstander or 685 standmount loudspeaker at the front of a home theatre system." I've used the HTM62 with 683s because the LP was too close for a HTM61(like you) and it sounded just fine,very nice! The fact that it costs less doesn't hurt either.

When I listened to CM1 and CM5 (for use as fronts in a larger room) the CM1 actually sounded a bit nicer with more crisp definition. I wonder why I had that impression. Does anyone know if ceiling mounts are available for CM1? I would need to hang them from the ceiling. I can use generic speaker mounts but I would like to avoid making screw holes in the top of the box if possible. Is there a mount that is nice looking and holds the CM1 from the bottom?

I am using the HDMI on my Pioneer BR BDP-52f to my Pio SC 35. SHould I be using the analog outputs instead? I thought the HDMI was the best for this?

Also that I should not use the sub for 2 channel?

So far i have about 15 hrs on them... and they have "mellowed" a bit... i.e. not quite as bright as before...

Thanks for the tips will try them out...

correct no sub for 2 channel with direct in put or pure mode on Avr as it is cancelled out and you hear only the front speakers without any remixing from the AVR..the AVR just bypasses the sound directly to speakers


the hdmi in is fine for movie soundtracks and for Pio's Dacs in the AVR..not sure what Dacs are in the 52 for the analog outs..just something new to try and experiment with now that you are moving up into the big leagues and you want to hear your CM's at their best.

Thank you for the advice, I will try that and see. yes I usually run Direct mode with the AVR..

The huge improvement was in the tweeter between the Nautilus to the newer diamond "D" line. The bass drivers also went from paper (?) to Rohacell in the newer units. This is a thicker driver material that is supposed to isolate intenal box sounds from propogating to the outside through the cone. There was also some crossover tweaking as a result and that changed their characteristics a bit too. Overall, the newer "D" is a fair bit cleaner up top, easier to listen to for me, but the Nautilus line still draws a crowd and seems to sell well on the used market.

Does anybody have the list prices for the CM9s and associated center channel and the Diamond 804s and center channel?

I don't have a B&W dealer near me but Best Buy and they don't sell the diamond series. When I asked, they said they would have to have it air freighted from some high-end magnolia (apparently different than the regular magnolia shops) and unfortunately it would cost between $13-16K just for the pair. Is this correct? What is the list price? Thanks all.

This website shows MSRP for B&W speakers.
http://www.modia.com/speaker_category.aspx

Thanks. I can't believe it was $13-16K at Best Buy. They should have just said its not worth us shipping to you.

I've been strongly considering this setup:
-USP-1
-UPA-1 (x2)
-B&W 683, CM9, or Sonus Faber Toy Towers (I receive half off on all these speakers)

This will be 50/50 movies and music. Although music is my personal priority, this setup will be used for both movies and music equally. I'll need a DAC and BluRay player, but that is for the future. Any other specific recommendations? I will eventually make a 5.1 system. Is there a better way to prepare for the future without sacrificing the benefit of the stereo amp and mono blocks?

Thanks

Any recommendations on B&W in-walls to match CM9s and a CMC2?

The CM9s + CMC2 are 2x $1500 + $1250
The 804D are 2x 3750

The "special" Magnolia is Magnolia AV or a Magnolia Design Center which actually would have these speakers on demo.


The Diamond Series cost that much. (and more for the center)

I want to buy a reasonably priced new one,any suggestions? Has to do subwoofer freq.s as well as the normal range. Thanks in advance!

I have a free app. in my iPhone that measures dbs.

Hm how accurate can that app actually be? Say that three times .


Djoel

I would imagine that the main differences are in the top end, but, what about the mid-range and low end? Is the overall sound very similar between them? The reason I asked is because I have auditioned both the htm1d and the htm2d2. I absolutely loved them both, unfortunately, if I decide to go with B&W for my ht, I can not afford the diamond series. I would probably go with the Nautilus 803's or 804's, along with a Nautilus htm1. I am just curious to know how those would compare, sonically, to the Diamonds. The main thing I remember about the htm2d2 was how full and rich it sounded. I fell in love with that center channel! If anyone reading this has any of the Nautilus series that they might consider selling, then please PM me. Same for anyone with a diamond series center!

It's guaranteed not accurate. The mic isnt calibrated I have several of these apps tget give different results, and none that match my Radio Shack SPL Meyer ( which is not the exemplar of accuracy, either).

What do you think about this; http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/art...r-good-measure It's $129 calibrated, here; http://www.cross-spectrum.com/measur...ted_cm140.html

I have been using the Radio shack SPL since the early 90's..highly recommended

This meter is good for comparing relative levels of different speakers playing the same test tones. Its ABSOLUTE accuracy isn't that great. It's particularly deficient in the bass.

Do you think the CM-140 is worth $70 more? The digital R/S meter is discontinued, there's a new model on their web site. It looks totally different and no one at R/S knows the difference. Who knows if it will need a correction table like the old one and/or if it would be the same table?

I actually just got the new one. Was planning on using it to see about relative differences with phase changes. I have no idea how accurate it is though.

Yeah I saw that but already got the RS one about a week ago. It's prob worth it to get a better calibrated one. But I'm actually more interested in relative measurements. Meaning which phase/ delay has higher SPL at the crossover. Probably any meter can tell you that. Then just use MCACC/Audessy to do the EQ and dial it in to taste.

I gave in and ordered the calibrated CM-140. Hey,it wasn't the first time this week I spent more than I had to. (double grins-one for each sub)

Just for amusement after you get the SPL meter, you should install one of the cheap or free apps. and compare the results.

Transient responses seem pretty responsive on my phone.