or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Speakers › B&W Owner's Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

B&W Owner's Thread - Page 474

post #14191 of 17996
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepers1 View Post

Rod or any other 800 Diamond owner; can you provide me the dimension of the 800's base ?

25.39" x 17.72"
post #14192 of 17996
Quote:
Originally Posted by GlockFan View Post

Hey guys, I don't mean to change the subject but need opinions.
I ordered the CM5's and ordered the ML Dynamo 500 sub.
Is this sub going to be ok or should I get another one?
I don't want to spend more than $500 for the sub.
Thx

You might get more responses in the subwoofer forum. The ML Dynamo 500 is a decent sub but you can get more for your $500 from the likes of HSU Research, SVS, Rhythmik, or Outlaw Audio.
post #14193 of 17996
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepers1 View Post

Rod or any other 800 Diamond owner; can you provide me the dimension of the 800's base ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rod#S View Post

25.39" x 17.72"

if you want the full drawing of this speaker:

http://bwgroupsupport.com/downloads/drawings/bw/pdf/800D2.pdf
post #14194 of 17996
Rod & Leo - thank you both
post #14195 of 17996
Test
post #14196 of 17996
Quote:
Originally Posted by BVLDARI View Post

You may be right but the last comparison I did was between the JL F113 and the B&W DB1 and I did not think they sounded the same...

When the time comes for me to upgrade to a subwoofer, I may reach out to some folks that have an ID sub that I am interested and hopefully they will welcome me to audition it... Not sure how else one could accomplish this feasably considering shipping back a subwoofer will probably be ridiculous.

But the reality of it is that ID brands cost 2 to 4 times less than say a DB1 so that’s a big chunch of change…

It's tough to say which of those 2 subs should sound better without knowing the CEA measurements of either of those.

CEA Standard SPL @ 32/40/50Hz:

JL Audio F112: ..........112.4/116.2/113.3

Paradigm Sig Sub2:...109.9/113.2/116.9

Velodyne DD18+:......113.0/115.8/116.8

SVS PB13 Ultra: .......113.5/115.5/117.5

Rythmik FV15HP: .....117.0/119.5/119.1

Funk 18.0: .................114.9/119.9/121.4

A sub that can do 121dB may have a lot higher dynamic headroom, a lot less distortion and compression at lower output need vs a sub that can do 113dB. So depending on the music content, the 121dB sub may sound "punchier" or "faster" or "more slam" or "more musical".

In this example, if the DB1 can only do 110dB, it may sound significantly different than the 121dB sub.

Bottom line, I would buy a sub that has been measured w/ CEA standards.

I think the Rythmik FV15HP may be best bang for the buck @ $1400 delivered.
post #14197 of 17996
Hello all

Just purchased some 683's second hand. And while they came with the plinths and the spikes, they didn't come with the bolts to secure the speakers to the plinths.

I've figured out they appear to be M6 bolts. Can anyone tell me the length, or even better, what to specifically look for from Home Depot, etc?

Thanks!
post #14198 of 17996
Quote:
Originally Posted by AcuDefTechGuy View Post

It's tough to say which of those 2 subs should sound better without knowing the CEA measurements of either of those.

CEA Standard SPL @ 32/40/50Hz:

JL Audio F112: ..........112.4/116.2/113.3

Paradigm Sig Sub2:...109.9/113.2/116.9

Velodyne DD18+:......113.0/115.8/116.8

SVS PB13 Ultra: .......113.5/115.5/117.5

Rythmik FV15HP: .....117.0/119.5/119.1

Funk 18.0: .................114.9/119.9/121.4

A sub that can do 121dB may have a lot higher dynamic headroom, a lot less distortion and compression at lower output need vs a sub that can do 113dB. So depending on the music content, the 121dB sub may sound "punchier" or "faster" or "more slam" or "more musical".

In this example, if the DB1 can only do 110dB, it may sound significantly different than the 121dB sub.

Bottom line, I would buy a sub that has been measured w/ CEA standards.

I think the Rythmik FV15HP may be best bang for the buck @ $1400 delivered.
I had the FV15HP before I swopped for the JL F113.
In terms of SPL, the FV15HP had the most SPL of all my subs thus far, and was almost as musical and tight as the F113. But in terms of aesthetics and placement, the F113 made more sense in my small place.

But it is truly VFM.
post #14199 of 17996
Matching amplifier for B&W diamond

Hi Guys I bought a classe CA2300 for my 804Di and my rotel amp will move to feed my 805's so I'm looking for a mono amp for my HTM4Di, some clue for It?
I want that sound be similar to the other amps and my budget is 1000 usd max.
thanks.
post #14200 of 17996
Quote:
Originally Posted by AcuDefTechGuy View Post

It's tough to say which of those 2 subs should sound better without knowing the CEA measurements of either of those.

CEA Standard SPL @ 32/40/50Hz:

JL Audio F112: ..........112.4/116.2/113.3

Paradigm Sig Sub2:...109.9/113.2/116.9

Velodyne DD18+:......113.0/115.8/116.8

SVS PB13 Ultra: .......113.5/115.5/117.5

Rythmik FV15HP: .....117.0/119.5/119.1

Funk 18.0: .................114.9/119.9/121.4

A sub that can do 121dB may have a lot higher dynamic headroom, a lot less distortion and compression at lower output need vs a sub that can do 113dB. So depending on the music content, the 121dB sub may sound "punchier" or "faster" or "more slam" or "more musical".

In this example, if the DB1 can only do 110dB, it may sound significantly different than the 121dB sub.

Bottom line, I would buy a sub that has been measured w/ CEA standards.

I think the Rythmik FV15HP may be best bang for the buck @ $1400 delivered.

Do you have measurements from the E15HP?


As a side note, I doubt I was anywhere near distortion levels during my last audition...
post #14201 of 17996
I posted this in the subwoofer forum but any thoughts on the ASW10CM?
post #14202 of 17996
Quote:
Originally Posted by BVLDARI View Post

As a side note, I doubt I was anywhere near distortion levels during my last audition...

How do you know w/o CEA measurements?

Distortion is one factor, but damping, power compression, and dynamic headroom are more significant factors.

For example, most of the time, the sub may only be at 90dB. But during the perceived musical "punch and slam", it may dynamically peak at 115-117dB for only a split second. So if a sub is not capable of this clean and tight output without compressing, it may not sound as good.
post #14203 of 17996
Quote:
Originally Posted by DougFlud View Post

I posted this in the subwoofer forum but any thoughts on the ASW10CM?

The spec is similar to the 610XP, which is inferior to any of these other subs, especially the Rythmik FV15HP.

CEA Standard SPL @ 20/32/40/50/63 Hz:

$1200 B&W ASW-610XP: 85.1/96.1/101.5/105.9/108.9
$700 Emotiva X-Ref 12: 81.0/99.1/103.5/107.6/108.5
$769 SVS PB12-NSD: 103.2/105.9/106.5/107.3/108.0
$740 Outlaw LFM-1EX: 101.0/110.7/112.3/113.7/113.8
$800 Power Sound XV15: 102.7/109.6/113.7/116.6/114.7
$1022 Hsu VTF-15H: 103.9/113.0/115.7/115.7/115.6
$1,400 Rythmik FV15HP: 108.1/117.0/119.5/119.1/118.8
post #14204 of 17996
Quote:
Originally Posted by petetherock View Post

I had the FV15HP before I swopped for the JL F113.
In terms of SPL, the FV15HP had the most SPL of all my subs thus far, and was almost as musical and tight as the F113. But in terms of aesthetics and placement, the F113 made more sense in my small place.

But it is truly VFM.

Can't argue w/ aesthetic, size, placement, personal preference. The JL is prettier and prestigious.

image

807jl.1.jpg
post #14205 of 17996
Quote:
Originally Posted by leo2498 View Post

Matching amplifier for B&W diamond

Hi Guys I bought a classe CA2300 for my 804Di and my rotel amp will move to feed my 805's so I'm looking for a mono amp for my HTM4Di, some clue for It?
I want that sound be similar to the other amps and my budget is 1000 usd max.
thanks.

It doesn't need to be a mono amp. You can get a stereo amp as well.

Like the ATI AT1802 stereo amp.

http://www.classicaudioparts.com/index.php/amplifiers/ati-at1802-two-channel-x-180-watt-amplifier-b-stock-120v.html

Or another Rotel amp.
http://www.thestereoshop.com/rotel.php
Edited by AcuDefTechGuy - 6/30/13 at 3:27pm
post #14206 of 17996
Quote:
Originally Posted by AcuDefTechGuy View Post

It doesn't need to be a mono amp. You can get a stereo amp as well.

With this stereo amp that you said, one channel will be connect to bass and the other to mid and highs, right?
post #14207 of 17996
Quote:
Originally Posted by leo2498 View Post

With this stereo amp that you said, one channel will be connect to bass and the other to mid and highs, right?

Yes. You could passive bi-amp using both Ch.

Or just use one of the 2Ch and leave 1Ch as a spare. The later is what I would do - single amp and not use 1 of the channels.
post #14208 of 17996
Quote:
Originally Posted by AcuDefTechGuy View Post

How do you know w/o CEA measurements?
Because he used a more important measurement tool: his ears.

B.
post #14209 of 17996
There's a B&W forum on htguide.com as well, a pretty good source for all fans of B&W.01.jpg02.jpg03.jpg04.jpg05.jpg06.jpg07.jpg
post #14210 of 17996
Quote:
Originally Posted by lifeis11 View Post

Hello all

Just purchased some 683's second hand. And while they came with the plinths and the spikes, they didn't come with the bolts to secure the speakers to the plinths.

I've figured out they appear to be M6 bolts. Can anyone tell me the length, or even better, what to specifically look for from Home Depot, etc?

Thanks!

would anyone with these speakers on the raised plinths be able to maybe pull a screw out and take some measurements for me?

Id really appreciate it.
post #14211 of 17996
I am sure if you call B&W in mass they will give you that info, better yet they probably can sell you a set
post #14212 of 17996
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B View Post

Because he used a more important measurement tool: his ears.

B.

True that.
post #14213 of 17996
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B View PostBecause he used a more important measurement tool: his ears. B.

Yes that helps wink.gif

post #14214 of 17996
Quote:
Originally Posted by lifeis11 View Post

would anyone with these speakers on the raised plinths be able to maybe pull a screw out and take some measurements for me?

Id really appreciate it.

I just got some 683s yesterday and haven't installed the plinths. My screw measures 35mm long. It's is a cap head screw.
post #14215 of 17996
Quote:
Originally Posted by techstl View Post

I just got some 683s yesterday and haven't installed the plinths. My screw measures 35mm long. It's is a cap head screw.

great info! are these the plinths with the raised platforms?
post #14216 of 17996
Quote:
Originally Posted by lifeis11 View Post

great info! are these the plinths with the raised platforms?

like this?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FN3UUY/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
post #14217 of 17996
A little blurry but I hope these will do:


post #14218 of 17996
Quote:
Originally Posted by lifeis11 View Post

like this?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FN3UUY/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

Not sure about thread size or pitch.
post #14219 of 17996
awesome thanks!
post #14220 of 17996

Food for thoughts

 

"Musical or Monetary Upgrades? There comes a time in the life of every audiophile when he sits back and asks where all this upgrading is taking him and if he truly still enjoys listening to music through his home system. It takes a lot of honesty to answer that question and it is one that I have thought about many times. For as long as I can remember, the whole process of moving the system forward musically has been somewhat historic. The dealer’s answer has always been “Trade in your old box, add some money and I’ll give you a new and better one”. Cash changed hands and the industry was nourished. For those who have been around audio for many years and have invested time and lots and lots of money in their love, hobby, obsession, or whatever it has become, there will always come that brickwall moment. The simple question remains. What should a system upgrade really achieve?" by Chris Thomas

 
I agree 100%, the upgraditis is a bad disease
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Speakers
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Speakers › B&W Owner's Thread