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B&W Owner's Thread - Page 520

post #15571 of 17892
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Murderousone View Post

For the guys that have heard the CM10 how does it compare to the sonus faber venere 3.0 and also does it come close to the clarity of the 800 diamond?

I posted about this recently. Basically to me the Venere 3.0 and the Revel F206 were pretty much identical. So if you've ever heard the F206 you've pretty much heard the Venere 3.0. The CM10 was clearly different and I liked it better. This leads me to believe that I "prefer" the B&W sound. Now that said, we liked the F208 better than the CM10 so I would definitely cross shop those two if space is available. We also compared the CM10 to 804 diamond and my friend bought the 804 diamond. I would describe the difference like this: I could find things about the CM10 I could nit pick, where as the 804 is just all together and coherent (as it should be for near 2 times the price)...
post #15572 of 17892
Quote:
Originally Posted by [Irishman] View Post

Also interested in the answer to this question, but also any audible differences that might be described as clear improvements between the CM10 and the CM9.

I have not compared the CM9 to the CM10 but would venture a guess that there will be very audible differences between these two...
post #15573 of 17892
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Murderousone View Post

For the guys that have heard the CM10 how does it compare to the sonus faber venere 3.0 and also does it come close to the clarity of the 800 diamond?

Coming from a relatively new enthusiast, I recently auditioned both CM10 and 804D. Although I may be wrong here, CM10 has more mid-range bass and seems to be good for home theater. However, I find that 804 rules in both detail, power and clarity. Much like comparing HTM4 and CMC2 center speakers. It's a load of difference, at least to me. 

 

If you listen to classical music, 804D is the way to go. My set will be ready in mid-Jan when my new place is up. Can't wait!

post #15574 of 17892
Quote:
Originally Posted by ugeene View Post

Thank you, postrokfan. 705s are offered in like new condition for $850, practically unused; no information for the moment on how they were stored (for years).
684s are new from Magnolia for $1100.
I have a new htm61rc for center channel.

I believe the 705s were originally $1500 so the seller is asking for 57% of the original value. Even though they are practically unused how they were stored is important since that can also affect the wear on the rubber surrounds. If they are 10 years old I would probably try to negotiate down a further 10-15%. If they are 5 years old, 50-57% of original MSRP is fair IMHO.
post #15575 of 17892
I'm in the process of putting together a new system. I listen mostly to music and some movies (75/25). I'd really like to build something with CM10's for the front but I fear I cannot afford both the speakers and the power to drive them. Am I stupid for buying CM10's and then driving them with a DENON AVR-X4000? If I want to add surround to the system I was considering putting CM1's for the rears. Does it hurt to use the CMC for the center or should I wait until I can do the CMC2? I haven't even considered the sub yet.

The reason I'm interested in the CM10's is that I had a chance to hear them next to the CM9's and the difference (to me) was startling. They were only being powered by the DENON and a audio geek friend of mine told me they would be way under powered. They still sounded fantastic to me. The clarity and brightness was amazing. The way I figure it, when I can afford to buy a proper Amp for them, it will be like getting a new set of speakers too!

Any guidance?
post #15576 of 17892
Quote:
Originally Posted by moelassus View Post

I'm in the process of putting together a new system. I listen mostly to music and some movies (75/25). I'd really like to build something with CM10's for the front but I fear I cannot afford both the speakers and the power to drive them. Am I stupid for buying CM10's and then driving them with a DENON AVR-X4000? If I want to add surround to the system I was considering putting CM1's for the rears. Does it hurt to use the CMC for the center or should I wait until I can do the CMC2? I haven't even considered the sub yet.

The reason I'm interested in the CM10's is that I had a chance to hear them next to the CM9's and the difference (to me) was startling. They were only being powered by the DENON and a audio geek friend of mine told me they would be way under powered. They still sounded fantastic to me. The clarity and brightness was amazing. The way I figure it, when I can afford to buy a proper Amp for them, it will be like getting a new set of speakers too!

Any guidance?

Why not get a reasonable amp now and take the dive into separates? Few things to consider.
If you can stretch the budget a bit.....

Do you intent to use 7.1 or is 5.1 sufficient for you? If 5.1 then get a 5 channel amp (ID). 7.1 receiver is a good marketing plot as we all think more is better. But if you don't need it why pay for it. Pro/pro on the market generally have the same features as receivers and this is the piece gets obsolete after you buy it. But this Denon has Audyssey Xt32 which is very nice feature and you would to go up quite in $ to get a pre/pro with that. A lot of trade offs.

I am happy with my ID amp. And like you said a better amp in the future is like getting new speakers. Lol
post #15577 of 17892
Quote:
Originally Posted by moelassus View Post

I'm in the process of putting together a new system. I listen mostly to music and some movies (75/25). I'd really like to build something with CM10's for the front but I fear I cannot afford both the speakers and the power to drive them. Am I stupid for buying CM10's and then driving them with a DENON AVR-X4000? If I want to add surround to the system I was considering putting CM1's for the rears. Does it hurt to use the CMC for the center or should I wait until I can do the CMC2? I haven't even considered the sub yet.

The reason I'm interested in the CM10's is that I had a chance to hear them next to the CM9's and the difference (to me) was startling. They were only being powered by the DENON and a audio geek friend of mine told me they would be way under powered. They still sounded fantastic to me. The clarity and brightness was amazing. The way I figure it, when I can afford to buy a proper Amp for them, it will be like getting a new set of speakers too!

Any guidance?
I have two suggestions for you, if you like the CM10's go with the Denon 4520ci for the center CMC2 and CM5 for the surround backs.Now since you like X-4000 go with CM8 for towers and CM centre for center channel and finally go with CM1 for surround backs.
post #15578 of 17892
I would suggest the CMC2 over the CMC which ever way you go.
post #15579 of 17892

Could be the final change folks. All good to go?

 

1. 804D2 (purchased)

2. HTM4 (seeking final approval from CFO)

3. CCM362 ceiling rear speakers (purchased)

4. SVS SB12 compact subwoofer 300W

5. Marantz SR7008 (purchased)

6. XLO HT wires (purchased)

post #15580 of 17892
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisdemello View Post

Could be the final change folks. All good to go?

1. 804D2 (purchased)
2. HTM4 (seeking final approval from CFO)
3. CCM362 ceiling rear speakers (purchased)
4. SVS SB12 compact subwoofer 300W
5. Marantz SR7008 (purchased)
6. XLO HT wires (purchased)
If you are happy with it, that's all it matter.
post #15581 of 17892
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisdemello View Post

Could be the final change folks. All good to go?

 

1. 804D2 (purchased)

2. HTM4 (seeking final approval from CFO)

3. CCM362 ceiling rear speakers (purchased)

4. SVS SB12 compact subwoofer 300W

5. Marantz SR7008 (purchased)

6. XLO HT wires (purchased)


I would stay away from anything "compact" for subwoofer. With low frequencies size DOES matter.
post #15582 of 17892
Quote:
Originally Posted by ap1 View Post


I would stay away from anything "compact" for subwoofer. With low frequencies size DOES matter.

I can still consider PB-12 but some friends mentioned that it needs "room to breathe" which is a luxury i might not have in my new place. But it can still remain an option and will be my last purchase from the whole lot. I also got a TV/media console custom made for the HTM4.

post #15583 of 17892
Quote:
Originally Posted by moelassus View Post

I'm in the process of putting together a new system. I listen mostly to music and some movies (75/25). I'd really like to build something with CM10's for the front but I fear I cannot afford both the speakers and the power to drive them. Am I stupid for buying CM10's and then driving them with a DENON AVR-X4000? If I want to add surround to the system I was considering putting CM1's for the rears. Does it hurt to use the CMC for the center or should I wait until I can do the CMC2? I haven't even considered the sub yet.

The reason I'm interested in the CM10's is that I had a chance to hear them next to the CM9's and the difference (to me) was startling. They were only being powered by the DENON and a audio geek friend of mine told me they would be way under powered. They still sounded fantastic to me. The clarity and brightness was amazing. The way I figure it, when I can afford to buy a proper Amp for them, it will be like getting a new set of speakers too!

Any guidance?

The Denon X4000 will power those CM10's perfectly! Don't listen to those people who tell you that it is absolutely necessary to have an external amp. Speaking of the audio components, most receivers, amps, and cables all sound the same. Some people think that the more expensive components sound better, and at one period of time, that may have been true, but, with today's technology most any receiver's and amps are more than capable of being transparent, and that knowledge can be backed up with double blind test that you can find by searching

With that being said, the only way that you will need an amp, is if you have a really large room, and listen at reference levels. Amps add SPL, nothing else. The Denon x4000 is more than enough to easily handle the CM10's!
post #15584 of 17892
Quote:
Originally Posted by moelassus View Post

I'm in the process of putting together a new system. I listen mostly to music and some movies (75/25). I'd really like to build something with CM10's for the front but I fear I cannot afford both the speakers and the power to drive them. Am I stupid for buying CM10's and then driving them with a DENON AVR-X4000? If I want to add surround to the system I was considering putting CM1's for the rears. Does it hurt to use the CMC for the center or should I wait until I can do the CMC2? I haven't even considered the sub yet.

The reason I'm interested in the CM10's is that I had a chance to hear them next to the CM9's and the difference (to me) was startling. They were only being powered by the DENON and a audio geek friend of mine told me they would be way under powered. They still sounded fantastic to me. The clarity and brightness was amazing. The way I figure it, when I can afford to buy a proper Amp for them, it will be like getting a new set of speakers too!

Any guidance?

I've driven my 802D2 with my Denon 3312 before (just to test). biggrin.gif

They sounded great.

HTM measured the 3312 to output 225W x 2Ch into 4 ohms RMS. Plenty of power into 4 ohms IMO.

So I also believe the X4000 will drive the CM10 just fine.

I think if they sounded great with the Denon you heard, then I would not worry about it.
Edited by AcuDefTechGuy - 12/10/13 at 10:02am
post #15585 of 17892
Quote:
Originally Posted by [Irishman] View Post

Also interested in the answer to this question, but also any audible differences that might be described as clear improvements between the CM10 and the CM9.

I did a quick demo of the CM10's and posted it a few pages back. I own the CM9's. In a nutshell the CM10's had a little better bass extension and the upper end was a bit more open and spacious. I didn't have a chance to test the CM10's with other CM speakers, but my impression was the differences in the highs wouldn't allow for it to integrate as tightly with the rest of the lineup. They really need a CMC3 and CM6 with a similar tweeter setup to round out the system. If 2ch was your main priority the advantages of the CM10's would tip the scales. Multichannel I think the CM9's with the CMC2 and CM5's will be a more cohesive setup.

CMC vs. CMC2 is easy. The CMC2 is a much better center in my opinion.
post #15586 of 17892
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisdemello View Post

Could be the final change folks. All good to go?

1. 804D2 (purchased)
2. HTM4 (seeking final approval from CFO)
3. CCM362 ceiling rear speakers (purchased)
4. SVS SB12 compact subwoofer 300W
5. Marantz SR7008 (purchased)
6. XLO HT wires (purchased)
I am not a big fan of ceiling speakers, YMMV..
post #15587 of 17892

Looking for some advice - I have B&W FPM series for me front left/right and center speakers.  I am looking for a suggestion for rear speakers I can mount to the wall or ceiling (think: not a huge speaker) that will be a decent match for the rest of my setup.  I am going to be DIY'ing a sub and havent chosen which one yet so I am unsure of that aspect.  Just looking for suggestions for rear speakers basically.  I love the sound of my current setup, just looking to finish off the 5.1 :) 

post #15588 of 17892
FPM2?

B.
post #15589 of 17892
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B View Post

FPM2?

B.


Now why the heck didn't I think of that.  Face palm.  Wonder if I can find any for sale used...

post #15590 of 17892
Hoping someone can tell me something to calm me dow. Just purchased original owner like new HTM2D on Audiogon. Paid with paypal. Center channel speaker arrived in good shape with no visible damage by ups. Carefully unpacked and connected jumpers and wiring. Turned on my system and immediately recognized no high frequency output. A dead diamond tweeter. Otherwise works properly with both woofers and mid sound perfect.

No problem I thought. Called seller who was surprised with problem as he said all was good when shipped. Maybe shipping damage....but no problem as unit purchased October 2010 from dealer it says on invoice. Wrote to B&W and they replied no warranty unless original owner.

Need technical advice from someone familiar with this product. To determine if open circuit on hf driver what should measured resistance be at mr/hf terminals on outside of cabinet. Hoping maybe wiring came loose in transit. How do i physically remove midrange to access crossover to check. No visible Allen head bolts around frame.

Meanwhile I wait on seller to arrange for warranty service in name of original owner or it goes back or seller sends me a new diamond tweeter. Not the excitement I was hoping for
post #15591 of 17892
Why not just take one of the woofers out and look inside? (I assume you already tried connecting the amplifier directly to the top set of terminals?)

B.
post #15592 of 17892
It is also very easy to remove the tweeter but you have to be careful. it is possible that the leads into the tweeter got disconnected. also, do what brian said.

finally, you can have the original owner contact b&w.
post #15593 of 17892
Tweeter has rubber type portion surrounding diaphragm. How do I remove tweeter from bullet
post #15594 of 17892
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B View Post

Why not just take one of the woofers out and look inside? (I assume you already tried connecting the amplifier directly to the top set of terminals?)

B.

Removed left woofer but internal cabinet divider between midrange. Guessing same on right woofer
post #15595 of 17892
Quote:
Originally Posted by BVLDARI View Post

It is also very easy to remove the tweeter but you have to be careful. it is possible that the leads into the tweeter got disconnected. also, do what brian said.

finally, you can have the original owner contact b&w.

Two remove front diaphragm I simply had to unscrew the rear tube that held it together. Used volt ohmmeter and found voice coil is open. So problem is bad diamond tweeter and not loose wiring.

Now to get seller to pay for new diamond tweeter diaphragm. Wish me luck.
post #15596 of 17892
Right, had to go in from back...for anyone else who might need it:

http://bwgroupsupport.com/

Then click "Service Manuals"

B.
post #15597 of 17892
Quote:
Originally Posted by wadeh911 View Post

Hoping someone can tell me something to calm me dow. Just purchased original owner like new HTM2D on Audiogon. Paid with paypal. Center channel speaker arrived in good shape with no visible damage by ups. Carefully unpacked and connected jumpers and wiring. Turned on my system and immediately recognized no high frequency output. A dead diamond tweeter. Otherwise works properly with both woofers and mid sound perfect.

No problem I thought. Called seller who was surprised with problem as he said all was good when shipped. Maybe shipping damage....but no problem as unit purchased October 2010 from dealer it says on invoice. Wrote to B&W and they replied no warranty unless original owner.

Need technical advice from someone familiar with this product. To determine if open circuit on hf driver what should measured resistance be at mr/hf terminals on outside of cabinet. Hoping maybe wiring came loose in transit. How do i physically remove midrange to access crossover to check. No visible Allen head bolts around frame.

Meanwhile I wait on seller to arrange for warranty service in name of original owner or it goes back or seller sends me a new diamond tweeter. Not the excitement I was hoping for

Just to rule out the obvious, the jumper that would be removed to allow you to biamp the speaker is in place and connected securely right?
post #15598 of 17892
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeahrens View Post

Just to rule out the obvious, the jumper that would be removed to allow you to biamp the speaker is in place and connected securely right?

indeed should look something like this :



I hope its something simple because the price of tweeter aint cheap.

Daniel.
post #15599 of 17892
Quote:
Originally Posted by wadeh911 View Post

Two remove front diaphragm I simply had to unscrew the rear tube that held it together. Used volt ohmmeter and found voice coil is open. So problem is bad diamond tweeter and not loose wiring.

Now to get seller to pay for new diamond tweeter diaphragm. Wish me luck.

If that is the case let the seller claim it under warrantee as far as i can see you can't get the coil by itself and the tweeter cost > $1200.

Daniel.
post #15600 of 17892
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeahrens View Post

Just to rule out the obvious, the jumper that would be removed to allow you to biamp the speaker is in place and connected securely right?

Yes. The top terminals are for the HF/MR and the bottom terminals are for the LF.
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