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post #3721 of 14075
Quote:
Originally Posted by warpdrive View Post

Nice purchase!

Now that I see where your going with this.....If it was me, I prefer to add the Rotel. I've never heard a Rotel/B&W matching sound anything but excellent, and it would still allow the B&W's to be very well driven. You are right in that fact that the MF acts as a second power source and the overall sound quality is much more dependent on the Denon, which would be the limiting factor in the sound quality. As for alternatives, not sure if you can get Brystons in Hong Kong, but I've always loved the Bryston 4B (not sure if the pricing would be that much more than what the Rotel is going for nowadays)

Thanks warpdrive for the helpful advice! I'll take a look around to see if any Hong Kong dealers carry Bryston, though I think probably as HK is a big hi-fi market. I've seen the 4B SST online for about USD$3,000 so it is not too much more than the Rotel. I also see that it is 300wpc compared to the Rotel's 500wpc. I assume 300 wpc will be enough to drive the 802D's?

On that note, another option I'm considering is the Rotel RMB-1095 which is a 5 channel amp that delivers 200 wpc, and costs slightly less than the RB-1092. The reason I'm considering this is because this option will give me balanced power to all 5 channels and lets me avoid using the Denon as an amp at all. The drawback to this is that I will only be feeding my 802D's 200 wpc instead of 500.

What do you think would be a better option? Getting the RB-1092 to drive my 802D's at 500 wpc and letting the Denon drive the other speakers at 140 wpc (and possibly either bi-amping/bridging the HTM2D center when I buy it down the line or possibly adding another RB-1091 to drive it) or getting the RMB-1095 and use Rotel power exclusively, but only at 200 wpc?

If you think the RB-1092 500 wpc stereo amp is the better choice, do you think bi-amp/bridging the Denon to provide 280 wpc to the HTM2D would be fine, or should I shell out for the RB-1091 to power it?

I guess this question would be relevant to the Bryston as well. On that note, I wasn't able to find a monoblock equivalent to the 4B should I need it to power the HTM2D center speaker. Do you know if they make a monoblock that matches the 4B?

Thanks a lot for your advice, it's really helpful.
post #3722 of 14075
I'd prefer to give the 802D's as much power as you can afford. I guess it depends on how much you tax the dynamic range of your music and the size of your room (which I'm assuming is fairly big for HK standards). I tend to listen to music in two channel mode only so the more watts driving the two speakers the better, when you hit those musical peaks, it's nice to have the power in reserve. As for your other channels you could always add a 6B 3 channel amp.

As for the Rotel, you have to give them an audition, I liked it, it's a very detailed sound, I didn't hear any of the harshness that cheaper Digital based amps have.
post #3723 of 14075
Quote:
Originally Posted by warpdrive View Post

I'd prefer to give the 802D's as much power as you can afford. I guess it depends on how much you tax the dynamic range of your music and the size of your room (which I'm assuming is fairly big for HK standards). I tend to listen to music in two channel mode only so the more watts driving the two speakers the better, when you hit those musical peaks, it's nice to have the power in reserve. As for your other channels you could always add a 6B 3 channel amp.

As for the Rotel, you have to give them an audition, I liked it, it's a very detailed sound, I didn't hear any of the harshness that cheaper Digital based amps have.

In that case, are you suggesting the Rotel RB-1092 with 500 wpc over the Bryston 4B SST with 300 wpc? The Rotel would certainly be more practical for my situation since I can always get the RB-1091 monoblock later when I purchase the HTM2D as my center. With the Bryston, I found out there is no matching monoblock so I would probably have to invest in the 6B SST now, which is a three channel version of the 4B SST.
post #3724 of 14075
Quote:
Originally Posted by KyaDawn View Post

In that case, are you suggesting the Rotel RB-1092 with 500 wpc over the Bryston 4B SST with 300 wpc? The Rotel would certainly be more practical for my situation since I can always get the RB-1091 monoblock later when I purchase the HTM2D as my center. With the Bryston, I found out there is no matching monoblock so I would probably have to invest in the 6B SST now, which is a three channel version of the 4B SST.

Logically speaking, that is probably the best plan, but I've always had a soft spot for the Bryston stuff (being from Canada, and their 20 year warranty) which made me suggest it. (and oh yes, they sound marvellous). I'v heard them driving electrostatic speakers and dynamic speakers and they always sound good no matter what we threw at them.

The Rotel gear is always a good match to B&W's and I've had some of them in the past and can't fault their "do everything very well" demeanor. Just be sure to audition it first though before you make a final decision as their Digital amps do have a slightly different sound than their pure analog amps. "detailed" sounding is how I would describe them.

I think either way, you'll be happy. I know I would be.
post #3725 of 14075
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfidler View Post

What country? The Pound has fallen against just about every currency out there so prices should be dropping, not rising.

Sweden. But IIRC the head office for the chain is in denmark and does its dealings in euro.

And as you said. The currency isnt the reason, so this has gotten quite a few people ticked off. But its not only on B&W its on more of their stuff. But looking at something like an 802D, a price raise of that magnitude is an 683 by itself.
post #3726 of 14075
God Damn it that HTM1D is a freaking Watt sucker! I am playing this with two 800Ds with Electrocompaniet AW600 Nemo Monoblocks on them and Halcro MC20 on the center.

I knew something was not quite right with the center channel (bi-amped by the Halcro MC20) so I decided to test it with something more powerfull (Enter Bryston). So I borrowed a Bryston 14BSST (2X600 Watts @ 8 Ohms) and OH MY GOD! The HTM1D now plays fantastically, the bass drivers finally moved seriously and everything is so much more clear and its filling the room. I tested it solo (with L&R off) using some music blu-rays and lots of FLACs by shifting all information on the center channel using my Auzentech X-Meridian DSP features.

The Halcro MC20 is no slouch either but this beast needs as much wattage as you can get! I am definitely keeping the Bryston in exchange of the Halcro!@

So for future owners of this speaker bear in mind that it needs a lot of juice.


Note: My room is quite big (around 140 Square meters and 5 to 6 meters high ceiling).
post #3727 of 14075
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfidler View Post

Hey Mate, thanks for your response; very useful info. Additional comments inline...



Oh? You're thinking that the 400W/10" driver on the 610XP won't be beefy enough? Or do you think that the enclosure is too small to get appropriate reverb? I've heard that the 683 theatre (aka the 610xp) is pretty tight on the bass (whathifi says that it's not as engaging). ie - It lacks "braub" (which is my term... well, more of a sound... to describe the rolling rumble of an HT action scene)



Stupid question alert... what would I use the other one for?



Thanks, the responses here have helped to put my mind at ease quite a bit.

Dave.

I would have little doubt that your sub would have tight bass. So does the 683. I just doubt that it will have that in the chest feel that you need with movies. I use SVS cylinder in a smaller room than yours and I can feel the action.
The only stupid question is an unasked one. You should be able to get a pair of 685's for around $550 when buying a complete systen as you did. This is about the same as the HTM1. As for what to doo with the spare speaker. Sell it to another who wants a better center with the 683 fronts. It is about break even if you just keep it and maybe use it for 6.1 at some later time.
At ease.
post #3728 of 14075
Quote:
Originally Posted by JargonGR View Post

God Damn it that HTM1D is a freaking Watt sucker! I am playing this with two 800Ds with Electrocompaniet AW600 Nemo Monoblocks on them and Halcro MC20 on the center.

I knew something was not quite right with the center channel (bi-amped by the Halcro MC20) so I decided to test it with something more powerfull (Enter Bryston). So I borrowed a Bryston 14BSST (2X600 Watts @ 8 Ohms) and OH MY GOD!

Thanks for sharing your experience. Now that's a system to be envious about.
post #3729 of 14075
Quote:
Originally Posted by JargonGR View Post

I am playing this with two 800Ds with Electrocompaniet AW600 Nemo Monoblocks

Nice very nice
post #3730 of 14075
Quote:
Originally Posted by JargonGR View Post

God Damn it that HTM1D is a freaking Watt sucker! I am playing this with two 800Ds with Electrocompaniet AW600 Nemo Monoblocks on them and Halcro MC20 on the center.

I knew something was not quite right with the center channel (bi-amped by the Halcro MC20) so I decided to test it with something more powerfull (Enter Bryston). So I borrowed a Bryston 14BSST (2X600 Watts @ 8 Ohms) and OH MY GOD! The HTM1D now plays fantastically, the bass drivers finally moved seriously and everything is so much more clear and its filling the room. I tested it solo (with L&R off) using some music blu-rays and lots of FLACs by shifting all information on the center channel using my Auzentech X-Meridian DSP features.

The Halcro MC20 is no slouch either but this beast needs as much wattage as you can get! I am definitely keeping the Bryston in exchange of the Halcro!@

So for future owners of this speaker bear in mind that it needs a lot of juice.


Note: My room is quite big (around 140 Square meters and 5 to 6 meters high ceiling).

Sounds like a great set-up! Got any photos to share with us?
post #3731 of 14075
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfidler View Post

Hi All,

Just bought:
Receiver: Denon AVR-1909
Front: 683
Center: HTM62
Sub: ASW610XP
Rear: 685

Total for the speakers was shy of 1900 quid ($2700 USD; $3300 CDN) plus cabling and it will arrive late next week. I'm okay with the price but I'm experiencing some buyers remorse. Here's why:

1. My room is 12x25' which is my LR/DR together and I'm watching HT along the 12' span (the DR is in the other 12' or so) so my face will be 8' from the speakers. With this new layout, I'm wondering if the 683s aren't just way too much speaker for this layout. Are they? I can put the AV setup against the wall with the bay window, but that seems... well... uncool... but it would get me another 3'+ of separation. Should I?

Note: I'm an expat from Canada and plan to take my B&Ws home with me in 5-7 years so I figured that I'd get the better speakers now rather than unload a pair of 684's later, when I get a bigger room. But now I'm wondering if that was just my impulse talking.

2. I settled on the HTM62 because I couldn't think of where I'd put the 61. But I'm really worried about the sonic match. I justified this by saying that a good layout would sort me out but I'm wondering if I've shot myself for the sake of being creative with speaker placement. Should I just go back and spend the extra 80 quid and.. I dunno, hang the damned thing from the ceiling? *sigh*

3. I forgot to make the sales guy sell me some speaker stands for my rear 685's; any recommendations out there?

4. I'm only running an AVR-1909 which, while good, isn't really the amp I wanted but the better half "ahem"d when I started talking about the 2809/3808. The reason we got the 1909 was because I'm probably going to go back to 110v/60Hz in the next 5-7 years so the 1909 was intended to be a throw-away amp. I managed to sell the wife on the speakers because "they will last us 10-20 years" *cough* .

Anyways, I had the chance to listen to the 685's and 684's on the 1909 in the showroom, but when I went back to listen to the 683's, there were no 1909's available. So does anyone have any experience out there with a 1909 and some 683's? I'll be past the return period for the 1909 by the time the speakers arrive so I'm going to be stuck with it if it's not really a good match for the 683's.

So I'm really beating myself up on the purchase of the 1909 (not good enough), 683's (too big) and HTM62 (insufficient). In reality, I have to wait to set it all up, but I'm interested to hear what people think.

[edit] adding pic of room; please ignore the mess... pregnant wife, cables, manuals, computer bits and other miscellanea everywhere because I've just ripped the front room to bits. And yes, that is a fireplace behind the TV. [/edit]

[edit2]the keen observer will notice that my wife is browsing a property finder website as she now recognizes that we need a bigger front room [/edit]

Cheers,
Dave.

1. The room size should be fine...I tried to attach a picture of my HT setup...it's about 13 X 15. My 683's took a fair amount of break in time...so did my ears. I've gone back and forth on using the foam plugs and not using the plugs...still. Great speakers. Great purchase.

2. HTM61 vs HTM62? You'll read a lot of negative impressions of the 61 on this forum, and several who are happier with the 62. Personally, I like the 61. My opinion doesn't count. Yours is the only one that matters in this equation. Yours, and your wifes...and soon to be child. Congrats on the new addition! Hopefully the little one will like their music cranked!

Great purchase...no worries!
LL
post #3732 of 14075
Hello all:

I have a minor issue. My lovely Bride and I have just finished building a house and have serious disagreements over home audio / home theater. Given that I built the home, all the infrastructure is here for the home theater. You see, my Bride thinks that the Bose systems are super cute and would work great in our home. YUCK!!!!!!! It makes me want to puke!

So, I have decided that in no way will I purchase the Bose and my compromise is the B & W M1 with an AS2 sub in a 5.1 configuration until I can get the other 2 for 7.1. They will be mated to either a Denon 2309 or 2809. Since I don't see much here about these speakers, I'm curious to know if anyone has any experience with them. I am ready to pull the trigger on these and have listened to them and they seem superior to any offering from Bose. I have looked at other small speakers and find them all to be far to bright for my taste yet I am aware that this is due to the nature of the beast if you will.

I appreciate anyone's $.02 on the subject.
post #3733 of 14075
Hi! I have Quad speakers, but the center is less than perfect--I was wondering whether anyone knows if B&W CDM Center would make a good match for Quad 22L2 fronts?
post #3734 of 14075
Quote:
Originally Posted by TJHUB View Post

A properly setup sub (located well and most likey EQ'd) is NEVER intrusive to music and is a must with small bookshelf speakers. It should be transparent and blend well with the mains. As such, I highly doubt you'd be able to locate the sub's position. When done right, the bass will have the illusion of being sourced at the main speakers (left AND right).

I would never recommend to someone to not have a properly setup sub for music listening. You'd be surprised at just how different music comes across to the listener when they can hear ALL of it.

I agree with this. Even when listening to 2CH CDs with my 804S speakers, I have the sub setup to play everything below 40Hz. With the Sub on, you can hear lower octives with more power. If I turn the sub off, the lower notes on a double bass or pipe organ just don't make it.
post #3735 of 14075
Quote:
Originally Posted by ctevans1 View Post

How do you go about shopping for a sub that will blend well with the mains? Unfortunately, all the good independent shops in my area have been squashed by the big box stores, and I don't really trust the employees opinions there. Do you have any pointers as to how I can pick a sub that wont be completely mis-matched with my mains?

The problem with most subs is that they are "in your face" and want to blow you away with power....not quality. I, on the otherhand, think a sub should sound musical and not color what you hear from your mains. I went with the Outlaw Audio LFM-1 Plus sub and used it for a year with my older B&W DM604 speakers. When I upgraded them to the 804S in the summer, the sub still matches well with it.

http://www.outlawaudio.com/products/lfm1plus.html

Newer model:
http://www.outlawaudio.com/products/lfmEX.html
post #3736 of 14075
Quote:
Originally Posted by focker View Post

I think the 802Ds will like a lot more power then that Denon offers to really make them open up and sing. I would consider seperates when you have made that kind of speaker investment,.

If I ever wanted to upgrad from my 804S to the 802D (or higher), I'd go with monoblocks for the front channels.
post #3737 of 14075
Quote:
Originally Posted by chripspy View Post

Hello all:

I have a minor issue. My lovely Bride and I have just finished building a house and have serious disagreements over home audio / home theater. Given that I built the home, all the infrastructure is here for the home theater. You see, my Bride thinks that the Bose systems are super cute and would work great in our home. YUCK!!!!!!! It makes me want to puke!

So, I have decided that in no way will I purchase the Bose and my compromise is the B & W M1 with an AS2 sub in a 5.1 configuration until I can get the other 2 for 7.1. They will be mated to either a Denon 2309 or 2809. Since I don't see much here about these speakers, I'm curious to know if anyone has any experience with them. I am ready to pull the trigger on these and have listened to them and they seem superior to any offering from Bose. I have looked at other small speakers and find them all to be far to bright for my taste yet I am aware that this is due to the nature of the beast if you will.

I appreciate anyone's $.02 on the subject.

Father, I have a confession.... I used to own Blose, uhh, er I mean Bose AM speakers many years ago. Sounded great until I listened to other "real" speakers. (never again)

Anyway, I believe the B&W M1's coupled with the ASW are far superior to the Bose. A friend has the exact setup you are thinking about and to me, it sounds absolutely fantastic for a HT setup, as well as music at moderate levels. As always, you should try to audition the B&W's prior to dropping $1500 on speakers, but I believe that you (and spouse) would be quite impressed with the M1 / ASW combo. I also think they look better than a couple cubes.

Currently, I am running the B&W 685 front /686 rear with a definitive sub. I understand your delimma as well, as my wonderful bride would like something smaller like the M1's, especially after seeing the setup at our friend's house, but I just need a little more oomph, because I use them more for music than HT.

Hope this helps! Let us know what you end up with and your impressions!
post #3738 of 14075
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfidler View Post

I know that the speakers will last me that long, but the question is, will I last that long with the same set of speakers.

Unless you hangout with other audiophiles or go to better B&M stores, you'll only ever hear craptastic speakers at your friends and family's homes. Every time it'll make you love your own speakers more. My wife sure feels that way and she was tempted to get the 800-series the first time through.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dfidler View Post

I'm currently using 14ga radio shack cable (manufactured by Esoteric) that's 15 years old and thought that maybe I should change it out when the sales guy gave his pitch. However, after reading more on here I think I'm going to cancel that purchase as my RS 14ga cable is still "slime" free and no oxidization in under the clear jacket.

Yeah, my Radio Shack wiring is a bit older than that, but it is still working fine. The only thing I've splurged on were 12 sets of banana plugs from Monoprice. I rarely disconnect my speakers, but it saves so much time when I do.
post #3739 of 14075
Quote:
Originally Posted by FAUguy View Post

I agree with this. Even when listening to 2CH CDs with my 804S speakers, I have the sub setup to play everything below 40Hz. With the Sub on, you can hear lower octives with more power. If I turn the sub off, the lower notes on a double bass or pipe organ just don't make it.

What! Are you my long lost twin? I was going to reply with the exact same message word for word!
post #3740 of 14075
I went and auditioned speakers for the first time yesterday at a B&M local store and a BB magnolia store (both were 3 hours away). Anyways, this was my first time auditioning speakers and the CM1 and CM5 were by far the best speakers out of all the brands I listened to (except the 802D's...hehe!) I didn't listen to much outside the 1k a speaker price range except for their big system with the 802d's.

I listened to Martin Logans, Definitive, Klipsch, and B&W. There was something about the CM series that I fell in love with. Anyways, they didn't have a lot of center channels at either place. Assuming I get these speakers, what would be a good center channel for it? I would prefer $600 ish or less if possible.

On a side note, they said that the prices listed were only starting prices...does anyone know how much room the dealers have to play around with? I am a college student and my wife just graduated so we don't have a lot of money so I need all the help I can get.
post #3741 of 14075
Quote:
Originally Posted by vili View Post

I went and auditioned speakers for the first time yesterday at a B&M local store and a BB magnolia store (both were 3 hours away). Anyways, this was my first time auditioning speakers and the CM1 and CM5 were by far the best speakers out of all the brands I listened to (except the 802D's...hehe!) I didn't listen to much outside the 1k a speaker price range except for their big system with the 802d's.

I listened to Martin Logans, Definitive, Klipsch, and B&W. There was something about the CM series that I fell in love with. Anyways, they didn't have a lot of center channels at either place. Assuming I get these speakers, what would be a good center channel for it? I would prefer $600 ish or less if possible.

On a side note, they said that the prices listed were only starting prices...does anyone know how much room the dealers have to play around with? I am a college student and my wife just graduated so we don't have a lot of money so I need all the help I can get.

Great choice! I believe the corresponding center speaker for the CM1 is the CM Centre, which goes for around $650. From what I've heard, B&W frowns on dealers giving discounts, but it never hurts to ask!
post #3742 of 14075
Thank you Kya, I'm sure I could get some kind of discount if I chose to buy them, albeit probably small.

For the ones that may own something in the same series that I am looking at, have you noticed a receiver that accentuates these speakers more? The only receivers I could demo were Marantz and Denon at the store. I did all the demoing with the Denon 1909 as it was in my price range for a new receiver. The Pio 1018, Onkyo 606-706, and HK 253-354 are on my list at the moment. The Denon was ok, but at BB the 1909 kept shorting out very often during playing and had to switch receivers to a Pio elite so I figured that was a bad sign.
post #3743 of 14075
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickrapp1 View Post

Father, I have a confession.... I used to own Blose, uhh, er I mean Bose AM speakers many years ago. Sounded great until I listened to other "real" speakers. (never again)

Anyway, I believe the B&W M1's coupled with the ASW are far superior to the Bose. A friend has the exact setup you are thinking about and to me, it sounds absolutely fantastic for a HT setup, as well as music at moderate levels. As always, you should try to audition the B&W's prior to dropping $1500 on speakers, but I believe that you (and spouse) would be quite impressed with the M1 / ASW combo. I also think they look better than a couple cubes.

Currently, I am running the B&W 685 front /686 rear with a definitive sub. I understand your delimma as well, as my wonderful bride would like something smaller like the M1's, especially after seeing the setup at our friend's house, but I just need a little more oomph, because I use them more for music than HT.

Hope this helps! Let us know what you end up with and your impressions!

Thanks for the words, they are much appreciated. I have auditioned the M1 set up and was impressed with them given the size. I would love to have the oomph however that idea was more like a fart in a diver's helmet here. I would prefer to have a set up that was more specific to music than HT but I think this is be best I'll be able to do.

I will have this stuff this week and hope to get it installed this weekend. I'll advise upon installation and review of the sound. Thanks again!!
post #3744 of 14075
Quote:
Originally Posted by vili View Post

Thank you Kya, I'm sure I could get some kind of discount if I chose to buy them, albeit probably small.

For the ones that may own something in the same series that I am looking at, have you noticed a receiver that accentuates these speakers more? The only receivers I could demo were Marantz and Denon at the store. I did all the demoing with the Denon 1909 as it was in my price range for a new receiver. The Pio 1018, Onkyo 606-706, and HK 253-354 are on my list at the moment. The Denon was ok, but at BB the 1909 kept shorting out very often during playing and had to switch receivers to a Pio elite so I figured that was a bad sign.

I think the Denon at the store may have been a bad unit. The 1909 provides 90 wpc with should be good enough for the CM1. The next Denon up is the AVR-2309CI, I believe, which provides 100 wpc and is around $150 more.

From the B&W website, the recommended amplifier power for the CM1 is 30W - 100W into 8Ω, which both of these models fit into, though I'm sure you'd have no problems feeding the CM1 even more power and it might sound even better. One thing about both models is they allow bi-amping, which as explained to me previously on this thread, could increase the power to your fronts to 180 and 200 wpc, respectively. However, this option will limit you to a 5.1 set-up from a maximum of 7.1 without bi-amping.

You would probably find more suggestions about amps if you posted the question on the AMPs, Receivers, and Processors forum as well.
post #3745 of 14075
Quote:
Originally Posted by vili View Post

On a side note, they said that the prices listed were only starting prices...does anyone know how much room the dealers have to play around with? I am a college student and my wife just graduated so we don't have a lot of money so I need all the help I can get.

It seems that 10% is pretty standard discount with slight negotiation. I've heard of some 15% and even 17% discounts, but those were for people buying a large volume of items (e.g. outfitting multiple rooms at once).

You should really consider buying used from someone on Audiogon. I've used it once myself and scored a pair of B&W 704 with all the original packaging for $1100. The guy who sold them bought 800-series for his home theater and the dealer had thrown them in or something. You might not get that lucky, but probably better than 10% off.
post #3746 of 14075
Quote:
Originally Posted by KyaDawn View Post

I think the Denon at the store may have been a bad unit. The 1909 provides 90 wpc with should be good enough for the CM1. The next Denon up is the AVR-2309CI, I believe, which provides 100 wpc and is around $150 more.

From the B&W website, the recommended amplifier power for the CM1 is 30W - 100W into 8Ω, which both of these models fit into, though I'm sure you'd have no problems feeding the CM1 even more power and it might sound even better. One thing about both models is they allow bi-amping, which as explained to me previously on this thread, could increase the power to your fronts to 180 and 200 wpc, respectively. However, this option will limit you to a 5.1 set-up from a maximum of 7.1 without bi-amping.

You would probably find more suggestions about amps if you posted the question on the AMPs, Receivers, and Processors forum as well.

Bi amping with either Denon will not double the output to each speaker.
post #3747 of 14075
Quote:
Originally Posted by HTMAN21 View Post

Bi amping with either Denon will not double the output to each speaker.

What is it then, bridging? Actually it wasn't this thread, but a Denon thread in the Club B&W section of another forum that somone explained it to me.
post #3748 of 14075
Quote:
Originally Posted by KyaDawn View Post

What is it then, bridging? Actually it wasn't this thread, but a Denon thread in the Club B&W section of another forum that somone explained it to me.

As I've learned just recently, it's pushing one amp channel into the bass drivers and another channel into the mids/highs. This bypasses the built-in crossover (which will soak up a tiny bit of power through inefficiency).

So, if I'm right you're basically re sending power directly to the filters instead of through a crossover and then to the filters.

Cheers,
Dave.
post #3749 of 14075
Quote:
Originally Posted by KyaDawn View Post

What is it then, bridging? Actually it wasn't this thread, but a Denon thread in the Club B&W section of another forum that somone explained it to me.

Bridging can double the power. However, not all amps are capable of doubling power in the bridged mode. Essentially bridging is combining two chanels into one.
All amps are not capable of being bridged and I am not familiar with any receiver amps that can be bridged.
Hope this helps.
post #3750 of 14075
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfidler View Post

As I've learned just recently, it's pushing one amp channel into the bass drivers and another channel into the mids/highs. This bypasses the built-in crossover (which will soak up a tiny bit of power through inefficiency).

So, if I'm right you're basically re sending power directly to the filters instead of through a crossover and then to the filters.

Cheers,
Dave.

Basically yes. Some claim to hear a difference with biamped speakers and some claim to hear no difference. This has been debated too many times.
Any improvement would have to be miniscule. When biamping you are still taxing the amps and most receivers do not have a large enough power supply or capacitors to improve audio when biamped. Just my opinion. YMMV.
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