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B&W Owner's Thread - Page 153

post #4561 of 13875
Quote:
Originally Posted by HTMAN21 View Post

Don't get hung up with hype about FST.

It's not hype, it's timber matching.
It's important, IMO, that the mid woofers be the same (at least across the front 3 speakers). Especially because SO much sound is in the mid frequencies.
I'm not saying the FST is the best thing since the light bulb BUT there's no denying that it's different than the woofer in my CNT. And the difference is audible.
post #4562 of 13875
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big L View Post

It's not hype, it's timber matching.
It's important, IMO, that the mid woofers be the same (at least across the front 3 speakers). Especially because SO much sound is in the mid frequencies.
I'm not saying the FST is the best thing since the light bulb BUT there's no denying that it's different than the woofer in my CNT. And the difference is audible.

Sorry, I was referring to FST on the HTM61. I should have said that FST alone can't make a speaker sound good. Perhaps the light bulb or sliced bread would help.
post #4563 of 13875
Quote:
Originally Posted by HTMAN21 View Post

Sorry, I was referring to FST on the HTM61. I should have said that FST alone can't make a speaker sound good. Perhaps the light bulb or sliced bread would help.

Yeah, that is why I am wondering if the CMC Center would be a better alternative?
post #4564 of 13875
I have the CM9's and CM Centre 2 in Piano Black. I had to go to 2 different dealers to get them, since I to was told there would be delays in ordering. I got lucky that the dealers had them for demoing and didn't mind parting with them.
post #4565 of 13875
B&W lover here!! I don't sell them but I own 'em and will never let them go!
post #4566 of 13875
Quote:
Originally Posted by CVickers View Post

B&W lover here!! I don't sell them but I own 'em and will never let them go!

I know how you feel. I just spent my first full weekend with my new B&W's, after nearly 18 years of being Paradigm exclusive. I cannot believe the difference in detail of my home theater now. The B&W's are just so much more lifelike and natural sounding to me.
post #4567 of 13875
Need help from the B&W experts:

I have been planning a new HT system for a small room. My original 5.1 plan was CM5s up front with a CM center, CM1s (or 5s) for the back, and a matching CM10 subwoofer. Then in 3-4 years when we buy a bigger house with a bigger (and hopefully dedicated) HT room I could move the bookshelf speakers back, buy CM9 floorstanders for the front and beef up the sub department.

Well, now the project will have to be scaled back due to budget constraints...what student loans???...and so I'm thinking I may need to start with only the fronts (and MAYBE the center depending on how good of a deal the local B&W dealers will offer). Then I will later build up to a full 5.1 (and even later 7.1/7.2) setup.

I'm guessing I'll have around $1500 to devote to speakers/sub, possibly able to push that up to $2000. Well, MSRP on the CM5s is $1200, so that wouldn't leave much for the other 3.1 channels.

Are there any cheap bookshelfs, centers, subs out there that will voice well with the CM5s up front so I can replace them later with CMs? (First order of business, of course, would be to add the matching center). Matching the voicing would be most important but approximating the look of the wenge finish (which has confirmed WAF) would also be nice.

Or am I approaching this all wrong? Should I go dirt cheap all around (e.g., Energy Take Classic) until I can spring for the whole B&W set?

Thanks, and PMs welcome.
post #4568 of 13875
Quote:
Originally Posted by lawn_wrangler View Post

Need help from the B&W experts:

I have been planning a new HT system for a small room. My original 5.1 plan was CM5s up front with a CM center, CM1s (or 5s) for the back, and a matching CM10 subwoofer. Then in 3-4 years when we buy a bigger house with a bigger (and hopefully dedicated) HT room I could move the bookshelf speakers back, buy CM9 floorstanders for the front and beef up the sub department.

Well, now the project will have to be scaled back due to budget constraints...what student loans???...and so I'm thinking I may need to start with only the fronts (and MAYBE the center depending on how good of a deal the local B&W dealers will offer). Then I will later build up to a full 5.1 (and even later 7.1/7.2) setup.

I'm guessing I'll have around $1500 to devote to speakers/sub, possibly able to push that up to $2000. Well, MSRP on the CM5s is $1200, so that wouldn't leave much for the other 3.1 channels.

Are there any cheap bookshelfs, centers, subs out there that will voice well with the CM5s up front so I can replace them later with CMs? (First order of business, of course, would be to add the matching center). Matching the voicing would be most important but approximating the look of the wenge finish (which has confirmed WAF) would also be nice.

Or am I approaching this all wrong? Should I go dirt cheap all around (e.g., Energy Take Classic) until I can spring for the whole B&W set?

Thanks, and PMs welcome.


well what are your preferences/needs? Are you more of a HT guy or more of a music guy?
post #4569 of 13875
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigred7078 View Post

well what are your preferences/needs? Are you more of a HT guy or more of a music guy?

Usage in this room is 50/50. However, music is more important to me.
post #4570 of 13875
Quote:
Originally Posted by lawn_wrangler View Post

Are there any cheap bookshelfs, centers, subs out there that will voice well with the CM5s up front so I can replace them later with CMs? (First order of business, of course, would be to add the matching center). Matching the voicing would be most important but approximating the look of the wenge finish (which has confirmed WAF) would also be nice.

Or am I approaching this all wrong? Should I go dirt cheap all around (e.g., Energy Take Classic) until I can spring for the whole B&W set?

Thanks, and PMs welcome.

If I were you, I'd go 2.1 for now. You could get the CM5, which by itself is satisfying for for music, no sub really needed. Try it out, and if you still feel you must have a sub, I'm going to recommend you steer away from the CM10 sub, just because you can just buy a small SVS SB12-Plus (in Piano black) which I really find superb for musical ability and still provides a good kick for home theater. If you find the CM5 fine without a sub, just add the center instead.

This way, you don't really have to sacrifice on 2-channel sound quality, and you aren't buying anything that you have to later sell at a loss. I'd rather have a good 2.1, 3.1, 3.0 system over a mediocre 5.1 system anyday.

Being a previous owner of some Energy Take speakers, you would NOT be happy with the Take Classic even for casual music listening....so you really should avoid getting something cheap like that if you are going to be stuck with it for a few years.
post #4571 of 13875
There's nothing wrong with buying a speaker set-up one piece at a time.
Being more of an HT guy, I'd go with the front 3 speakers first (3.0). But if you're into music, go with the mains and a subwoofer (2.1). [BTW I wouldn't buy a B&W sub. It's not that they're bad, it's just that you can get better performance for the same price point (or less) from companies like SVS or Hsu.]

Then add more speakers (center and surrounds) as the funds become available.
I've found out, the hard way, that it's cheaper to just get what you really want the first time around. Because I usually end up spending money on crappy substitutes (not to mention having buyers' remorse) and then I end up buying what I originally wanted anyway...
post #4572 of 13875
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big L View Post

There's nothing wrong with buying a speaker set-up one piece at a time.
Being more of an HT guy, I'd go with the front 3 speakers first (3.0). But if you're into music, go with the mains and a subwoofer (2.1). [BTW I wouldn't buy a B&W sub. It's not that they're bad, it's just that you can get better performance for the same price point (or less) from companies like SVS or Hsu.]

Then add more speakers (center and surrounds) as the funds become available.
I've found out, the hard way, that it's cheaper to just get what you really want the first time around. Because I usually end up spending money on crappy substitutes (not to mention having buyers' remorse) and then I end up buying what I originally wanted anyway...

Agreed, and well put. Bit by bit my HT materialized and I got satisfaction every step of the way. My setup is not as extravagant as some here but it makes me happy. craigslist in the bay area can yield some great deals if you put your nose down and do your research.
post #4573 of 13875
I have been auditioning speakers for the last two months, and I keep coming back to the B&W 684 speakers. I want a 2.1 setup for now, and later add the surrounds for 5.1.

What are some good subs that are a match for the 684's? Is it best to get the matching B&W subwoofer, or will any quality sub suffice?
post #4574 of 13875
Quote:
Originally Posted by Myron_H View Post

I have been auditioning speakers for the last two months, and I keep coming back to the B&W 684 speakers. I want a 2.1 setup for now, and later add the surrounds for 5.1.

What are some good subs that are a match for the 684's? Is it best to get the matching B&W subwoofer, or will any quality sub suffice?

Any sub will suffice. Matching a sub brand is completely unnecessary. Most people on this forum will tell you to buy a SVS, Hsu, eDesign, Epik, Rythmik sub for best value and output capability
post #4575 of 13875
Quote:
Originally Posted by warpdrive View Post

Any sub will suffice. Matching a sub brand is completely unnecessary. Most people on this forum will tell you to buy a SVS, Hsu, eDesign, Epik, Rythmik sub for best value and output capability

Agreed. I've had my CM7's paired with SVS and Velodyne (I tried them in different rooms), and integrating either sub was no problem.
post #4576 of 13875
Quote:
Originally Posted by warpdrive View Post

Any sub will suffice. Matching a sub brand is completely unnecessary. Most people on this forum will tell you to buy a SVS, Hsu, eDesign, Epik, Rythmik sub for best value and output capability

Quote:
Originally Posted by petergaryr View Post

Agreed. I've had my CM7's paired with SVS and Velodyne (I tried them in different rooms), and integrating either sub was no problem.

100% in agreement!

I love B&W Speakers (have been buying them for over 30 years), but in terms of subs I think you can get as good (if not better) sound and definately better value from some of the internet companies mentioned above than the traditional Paradigm, B&W, Velodyne, etc subs. I have 2 SVS PB113 Ultras paired with my B&W 803Ds and they sound great and blend seamlessly.

Have a look on the Subwoofer thread for some ideas.
post #4577 of 13875
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikefl52 View Post

100% in agreement!

I love B&W Speakers (have been buying them for over 30 years), but in terms of subs I think you can get as good (if not better) sound and definately better value from some of the internet companies mentioned above than the traditional Paradigm, B&W, Velodyne, etc subs. I have 2 SVS PB113 Ultras paired with my B&W 803Ds and they sound great and blend seamlessly.

Have a look on the Subwoofer thread for some ideas.

I have been buying B&W speakers since 1983 and I also love them.
I have 803Ds, HTM2D and ASW825. Out of curiosity, what crossover frequency are yours set to ? Mine are at 60hz and it sounds great but maybe I could use 40hz for the 803D.
post #4578 of 13875
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepers1 View Post

I have been buying B&W speakers since 1983 and I also love them.
I have 803Ds, HTM2D and ASW825. Out of curiosity, what crossover frequency are yours set to ? Mine are at 60hz and it sounds great but maybe I could use 40hz for the 803D.

I have an Anthem D1 processor with ARC (Room Correction) and so it is not quite as simple as setting the standard cross-overs. The software sweeps the sounds from all the speakers and sets parameters to give an ideal overall frequency response.

I do think you could lower the crossover for your 803Ds down to 40Hz and let the sub handle the lower frequencies with no problem. I would maybe experiment a little.

The problem with a lot of processors or receivers is that you can only set one value and so it impacts all speakers including centers and surrounds and so if you set it to 40Hz and the center and surrounds start to drop off at 50 or 60Hz say, then none of the information between 60Hz and 40Hz is redirected to the sub. In some processors you can change the slope of the filter and so you might be able to leave it at 60Hz and just choose a more gentle slope.
post #4579 of 13875
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikefl52 View Post

I have an Anthem D1 processor with ARC (Room Correction) and so it is not quite as simple as setting the standard cross-overs. The software sweeps the sounds from all the speakers and sets parameters to give an ideal overall frequency response.

I do think you could lower the crossover for your 803Ds down to 40Hz and let the sub handle the lower frequencies with no problem. I would maybe experiment a little.

The problem with a lot of processors or receivers is that you can only set one value and so it impacts all speakers including centers and surrounds and so if you set it to 40Hz and the center and surrounds start to drop off at 50 or 60Hz say, then none of the information between 60Hz and 40Hz is redirected to the sub. In some processors you can change the slope of the filter and so you might be able to leave it at 60Hz and just choose a more gentle slope.

I have a Yamaha Z11 and the crossover can be set per speakerset meaning fronts/center/surrounds. I used the single location calibration mode and YPAO set the crossovers both (I don't have surrounds anymore) to 60hz and the speakers to large so I just changed this to small. I know YPAO is not perfect and should be used as starting point only but checking a few threads I noticed that some folks with 803D speakers have a crossover of 60hz and others have 40hz. So I will experiment a bit more. Thanks.
post #4580 of 13875
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepers1 View Post

I have been buying B&W speakers since 1983 and I also love them.
I have 803Ds, HTM2D and ASW825. Out of curiosity, what crossover frequency are yours set to ? Mine are at 60hz and it sounds great but maybe I could use 40hz for the 803D.

I have my 804S crossover set at 40Hz and the HTM3S center at 60Hz. I did try the 804S at 60Hz, but after a few weeks found they soudned better at 40.
post #4581 of 13875
Quote:
Originally Posted by FAUguy View Post

I have my 804S crossover set at 40Hz and the HTM3S center at 60Hz. I did try the 804S at 60Hz, but after a few weeks found they soudned better at 40.

You can also try not crossing over these speakers at all, and just allow their natural rolloff to serve the purpose. It may sound just as good or even better. Also with 40 Hz and 60 Hz respectively, you are probably getting very little effect on the sound.
post #4582 of 13875
Quote:
Originally Posted by HarrisonS View Post

You can also try not crossing over these speakers at all, and just allow their natural rolloff to serve the purpose.

That's what I (have to) do.
I don't use a subwoofer so I have my 3.0 system (L&R and center) set to 'Large'.
Definitely not as good as having a dedicated sub but there is some bass and it sounds good. Actually I was pleasantly surprised how low the CNT center can go.
post #4583 of 13875
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big L View Post

That's what I (have to) do.
I don't use a subwoofer so I have my 3.0 system (L&R and center) set to 'Large'.
Definitely not as good as having a dedicated sub but there is some bass and it sounds good. Actually I was pleasantly surprised how low the CNT center can go.

Very good! The general consensus in some quarters is to choose the 'Large' setting, extcept in extreme cases. And if you do add a dedicated subwoofer later, you can continue to use your current setup, and cross the subwoofer over as low as possible, without leaving a hole in the bass. And in the end, you may even find this to be the best sounding arrangement possible.
post #4584 of 13875
Hello all im new to B&W with the purchase of a used 5.1 setup consisting of some
DM 630's DM 602's and a 600 center. My question is does anyone know how easy it is to replace a tweeter in the 630's? I have one that is cracked. I am eager to get this system up and running to compare it with my current Polk Rti system.
post #4585 of 13875
One more question How many of U are using the 602's as fronts?
post #4586 of 13875
i have a chance to pickup a pair of matrix 802 series. does anyone have any input on these.
post #4587 of 13875
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyb05 View Post

i have a chance to pickup a pair of matrix 802 series. does anyone have any input on these.

I have never listened to any of the Matrix Series speakers, but they should sound very good, since they were once B&W's top line. While I believe that some early Matrix speakers had a rather low efficiency, I see that the Matrix 802 Series 3 had a sensitivity of 90 dB, comparable to current models. The rated frequency response is given as 27 Hz - 27 kHz ± 2 dB. Do you know which series these are?
post #4588 of 13875
Quote:
Originally Posted by HarrisonS View Post

I have never listened to any of the Matrix Series speakers, but they should sound very good, since they were once B&W's top line. While I believe that some early Matrix speakers had a rather low efficiency, I see that the Matrix 802 Series 3 had a sensitivity of 90 dB, comparable to current models. The rated frequency response is given as 27 Hz - 27 kHz ± 2 dB. Do you know which series these are?

thanks for input. iam told they are series 3. are about 12 years old. of course the guy who has them told me that he spent $3500 on them, and that they still sound amazin.
post #4589 of 13875
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyb05 View Post

thanks for input. iam told they are series 3. are about 12 years old. of course the guy who has them told me that he spent $3500 on them, and that they still sound amazin.

That all sounds right. B&W made the Matrix Series until around 1998 when they introduced the Nautilus Series. THe Matrix 802's were priced individually at $2000 MSRP, so a pair would have listed at $4000.
post #4590 of 13875
I am not sure about replacing it myself, but I replaced the tweeter in my b&w 683 at my local dealer and they charged me 75 bucks altogether for the parts and time to do it. thought it was pretty reasonable. You might want to check with the local dealer to see how much it would cost to have them do the replacement
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