Any Mitsubishi HD1000U owners out there? - Page 82

Thanks Jesse for that great info. My projector is my primary TV as well. Since I am home all day (retired) mine probably runs longer than even yours, 8-12 hours a day, but it probably gets turned on and off more than yours 'cause when I am not watching it I turn it off, using the remote, mine never gets powered down using the unit power button although I will unplug it during heavy lightning.

I think I will give resetting the current bulb, approx. 2700 hours right now, a try, worse that can happen hopefully is that I blow up the projector, gives me an excuse to upgrade to 1080P anyway. Again thanks for the info and have a great week.

Golffnutt

I am about ready to reset mine for the second time as well on the original lamp still looks great its been on hi mode its whole life, we watch it probably 4 hours a day or so.

I have a new lamp but still have not put it in. I kind of want it to die so I can upgrade, but it still looks great so I can't justify messing with it.

Since tv and some blu rays vary in quality so much I still get those wow this is an awesome picture moments a year and a half after the original install.

I just replaced my bulb after 2000 and some odd hours, it went.... I also just invested in Calman and an Eyeone Pro meter. What a difference with the Eyeone Pro from my Spyder II.. Definitely worth the investment for the meter.. I also still get those WOW times again, especially with the new bulb and a new proper calibration. I'm going to be upgrading to the Epson 8500UB shortly I think.. The HD1000u has been a great projector despite its primary colors being off by quite a bit.... I think if this thing had an on board CMS I wouldn't even be shopping around for another unit...

Hi Guys,

Just set up my new (to me) HD1000u. It's amazing. I am coming from an Epson PowerLite 50c, so obviously this is a huge upgrade. I am having some issues watching cable on it. Xbox 360 and dvd's look perfect, but when I swap to cable it looks not only dark but very greenish? I'll try and post pics. I hooked up cable first so at first I thought there was something wrong with the pj or my hdmi cable but then I tried dvd player and xbox and those were fine. My setup is as follows:

-Onkyo SR606 receiver, and a monoprice 1x2 splitter - cable signal is perfect to 50" plasma so I don't think its the cable box
- 40' hdmi from monoprice
- Comcast HD cable box
- 8' wide Da-Lite white glass beaded screen

May as well throw out my other issue as well. When i play dvd's it REALLY crops it. So it looks strange with it being 8' wide but only about 3.5 to 4 feet tall. Like I said I just set it up so I know I have to start messing with the settings when I have some spare time but any pointers would be great.

- Chris

Do you have any way of hooking it up with component cables from the comcast box? Ever since comcast came out with the newer box my HDMI cable has not work since. I have tried numerous boxes from them and still nothing. Component works fine though. I have the newer 8300HD DVR box

Not sure why it would be cropping the picture....try the aspect button on the remote for the different screen settings....

Because he's probably talking about a 2:35:1 movie. It's showing the way it's supposed to.

Zooming or stretching it WOULD crop or distort the picture.

I was watching Pearl Harbor. I will try another movie and see if its better. I will also try running component to the projector and see if that helps. i'll have to get creative to test as I don't have a 30 foot component. Thanks for the suggestions.

Hi Guys, and Happy New Year to all.

I have been a very happy HD1000U for about 2.5 years now with one exception, I am getting ready to have to buy a new color wheel (third one since I bought it). Granted it is my main TV and probably runs 8-10 hrs. 7 days a week but still this is getting very old and EXPENSIVE.

I called Mits and the color wheel is $222. I thought I would give this a shot at installing it myself, I am pretty mechanically inclined. I was just wondering though if anyone else has done this and if so are there downfalls I should be careful with and look out for. Your input would really be appreciated. Thank you very much and have a great evening.

By the way I have the opportunity to buy an HC3000 at a really good price with low hours. How does this unit compare to the HD1000u?

Can anyone Hellllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllp? Thank you.

I would ask over in the HC3000 owners board, someone must have owned both.

Tried that, no luck there either.

Hey dpnaylor what is an on board CMS that you refer to in your above post. Thanks.

AVS Archives HC3000 vs. HD1000 Shootout! by TSO

(Post #12)

Well, this was harder than I thought!

Here are the basics of the test - and before you start in with critiquing method, please know that this was simply a real world, subjective test for the most part. I am not an ISF tech, though I have calibrated literally 100's of PJ's with basic tools as part of my work.

Sources -
Panasonic XP50 - 480p via Componant
- 480i via Componant
Scientific Atlanta Explorer 8300HD - 1080i, 720p HD signal via cable

Viewing material -
HD
ESPNHD basketball
INHD documentaries
"Lost" in HD
DiscoverHD Wildlife documentary

DVD
LOTR Special Edition
The Fifth Element
Gladiator
Sin City
The Incredibles
Avia calibration disc
Digital Video Essentials Calibration Disc

Screen - 133" Dalite High power
Room - complete light controlled, lighter walls, screen wall dark


Tests
Guys Its late, so this will be somewhat of a summary - feel free to aslk questions.

Started out viewing material with the image size at about 106" on the screen. I spent a LOT of time calibrating each to the best of my ability, saving it to memory #1, then tried two more variations on the #2 and 3 for each projector. #1 was the reference according to the calibration discs - the other two were simply eyeballed to create a "punchier" image version and a "detailed" image version.

In both projectors, low lamp was used, BC 'Off" on the 3000, at "2" on the 1000 (its default), cinema mode, iris on for the 3000. Here is what I observed on DVD's-

The 3000 throws a beautiful, bright picture. Greens tended to be a little flourescent and tending to yellow even after initial calibration, but could be tweaked by using RGB controls. Great shadow detail, good blacks though the high power at 106" a little strong. Occasional scaling or motion artifacts, but very minimal. Dithering low, but not as low as my older optoma, which was also a little dimmer. After tweaking the Gamma curves and the RGB color and contrast a bit, got the colors looking very nice.
For the 1000 - too bright! IN this screen size and configuration, the whites were crushing a bit, and it was just too vivid. In order to tone down the picture, I lowered the brightness a bit as well as the contrast, turned off BC, turned color down, and was able to get a nice picture.

In this config -
Color - almost identical. Oddly enough, the 1000 seems to have less flourescent greens, slightly warmer (without turning redish) skintones. The 3000 had more "pop" and clarity to the colors, due to the next category.

Contrast - 3000 wins here, for now...it had a darker black level, and the colors looked like they had more sharpness to them. The 1000 was very close - but due to the toned down cntrols, displayed a bright picture that was a little "flatter" than the 3000.

Shadow detail - this was interesting. I could not make a clear winner here. Despite the difference in contrast and b;ack level, i simply could nnot find a way to find more or less detail in the image of either. I tried dark images, bright images, finely detailed images, etc. Just when I would think AHA! a place where one seemed to resolve better, a small tweak to the controls of the other evened out the field. By the way, the couse of this type of tweaking and comparing resulted in BOTh PJ's improving their picture as we went.

Image noise - I would say there was a SLIGHT bit more in the 1000, due to the higher blacks and toned down contrast. However, it was not bad at all.

For this portion of the shootout, I would give the slight edge to the 3000. However, one of the pro reviewers got it right - these are amazingly "similar" pictures, and both of them, after much tweaking, looked GREAT on DVD material

FOR HDTV
Viewing HD on both of these at this screen size was a blast! Rather than try to tone down the 1000, I calibrated for best picture with the bulb on low, and for the 3000 with it on standard (iris still on).
In this way, BOTH pictures were almost identical. both looked GREAT, with a slight brightness edge to the 1000. I could discern no contrast differences, color differences, or sharpness differences. The 1000 had a SLIGHTLY higher black level, but due to the higher brightness, contrast appeared the same. Opening up the iris on the 3000 made it about as bright as the 1000, and the pictures WERE identical at that point. Motion artifacts and dithering were the same, colow was the same. Skin tones may haave been a TINY bit more realistic on the 1000 ( a bit warmer?)

Bottom line - HD looked great on both, almost identical. If you were to close your eyes and someone A/B them for you, it would be hard to identify either.

In summary - If I were using this screen size, I'd say I would definitely give the 3000 the nod. Closely related picture, but just a little more refined, contrasty and 3 dimensional. Not huge differences, though.

Going to bed, now
Will finish the report tomorrow, with the results from larger screen sizes.

Blessings

(Post #27)

I AM having a blast with the two projectors!

On to the shootout results -

I measured off on my screen a 120" diagonal 16/9 area for the next portion. I had hoped to mask the unused area, but that would have delayed this information even further

IN enlarging the screen from 106" to 120", there seemed to be not a whole lot of difference in the previous results. I re-calibrated both projectors with DVE, and began viewing - here are the basic settings.

HC3000
Lamp high
Iris On
Cinema Gamma setting
User Color temp, with reds boosted slightly
BC off
Brightness 0
Contrast 0
Sharpness 0

HD1000
Lamp high
Cinema setting
User color temp, with reds and blues boosted slightly
Brightness 0
Contrast 0
Sharpness 0
BC on 3 (default)

Here's where it gets a little interesting.
IN viewing the 3000, STILL a magnificent picture. I spent about 30 minutes viewing all of our favorite reference scenes, noting shadow detail, color, contrast, etc. THe picture was definitely dimmer, but not by much was the perception.
I tried putting on BC, and it got brighter, but lost some of the 3d effect, as well as making select colors (reds, greens) look a little off.
I tried boosting the brightness a little, which worked, but contrast suffered. So, I boosted contrast in addition a couple of notches, and that brought back the pop, but it seemed black level was worse. I ended up with BC off, and brightness and contrast boosted by two each. Very subtle, but it gained a little power and didn't lose much if any detail or 3D quality.

I then went and watched the HD1000, on the same material.
Definitely a bit brighter! But...the image was slightly more washed out. I would not have noticed it if I hadn't just spent 30 minutes watching the same material on the 3000. So...on to tweaking!
I brought the contrast up a bit, and actually lowered the brightness two clicks. Much better! Colors looked great, so I didn't want to mess with BC or Color temp yet. I tried different gamma setting - video, auto and cinema, and they all looked good, with cinema being the darkest.
The picture looked great!

Then, I began A/B'ing the two. First impression was...3000 still has 3D edge, and black level edge, 1000 was brighter but with a tiny bit of "fog" by comparison - very subtle but noticable when viewed together.
So, i set out to see if they could be equalized by boosting the Contrast on the 1000 by 2 more clicks, and the reducing the brightness by another. I also boosted the BC by one more to 4. Voila! VERY close pictures. I went through about 45 minutes of A/B'ing the two. IN certain scenes the 3000 still had the edge in 3D feel - most dark scenes, or space scenes simply looked the tiniest bit "richer".
One thing else, though - at this size, despite the richness of the picture, I realized after a while that the 3000 was beginning to lose some detail in the darkest shadows. There were areas of the picture - cloth texture, rock or forrest textures in the shadows, etc. That I realized I was still seeing on the 1000, but were beginning to be lost in the 3000.

That being said, unless your a stickler for every last detail, the 3000 still had a beautiful picture, even on the 120" screen. Do keep in mind though that this is a high power dalite, so I was getting a lot of gain from the screen.
Which would I choose at this size? Tough question. Those inky blacks and deep, deep dark images are very beautiful on the 3000. They are just as good on 90% of material on the 1000, with a brighter and at this point more detailed image. The contrast and black level edge I think still barely go to the 3000. From a subjective picture quality, to me, it's a toss up.

NOTE ADDED - I tried again this morning this whole set-up, with my previous settings and OPENED the iris on the 3000. The end result? the pictures on the two were almost identical - the 3000 lost the depth of filed, but gained enough lumens to be about the same as the 1000. It was amazing how close the pictures were, in color, contrast detail, gray, you name it.

Moving on to the 133" screen.
THis is the actual size of the screen I own. It's in a large, long, narrow, light controlled room, so the narrow viewing cone is not a deficit, and I can place the projector in such a way that it is only about 4.5 feet over my head, which would not be that different if I was floor mounting it.

I started off by calibrating both projectors again. Right away I realized that the calibrated image of the 3000 would need to be eyeball-tweaked. Color and grayscale were good, but contrast began to suffer due to the size of the image. Before even comparing the two, I put on BC, which is only "on or off" on the 3000. This helped contrast and brightness considerably, at the cost of color accuracy. Reds looked a little orangy, greens a little florescent, but it wasn't bad at all. I tried using the "Sports" gamma setting, which boosted the brightness a LOT, but the image was very crushed on both darks and lights. I don't recommend this setting on the 3000 for anything I tried using "sports" and then bringing down other elements - BC, brightness, contrast, etc. and it helped, but it really flattened the image and other nasty things. Basically, I think this would only be usable in a room with the lights on and watching HD sports. (By the way, I tried this setting when watching HD, and it didn't look as bad, but I don't think I would ever use it). I put gamma back on the previous setting.

I tried playing the with the user color temperature a little, and borought the greens down a bit and the blue up, and that seemed to help. In DVE, green was still off a good bit, but red only off a tiny bit. To compensate for the lowered contrast, I tried different gamma levels - "video" actually worked best, though once again at the cost of a little richness and grey scale accuracy, I think. All in all, a pleasing image, and the best I could get given my meager tools, but a pretty good eye. It definitely looked better than the "calibrated" image, simply due to the extra contrast and brightness needed due to screen size.

I watched all the same materials, and was happy to see how good it looked. If you own a 3000 and really want a larger screen such as my 133" High Power, don't hesitate!

I then switched to the hd 3000, and calibrated. INteresting note - I hardly had to change any settings to get good calibration from the 120" calibration. While playing the DVE disc, I experimented with different lumen boosting features, to see if I could get a brighter picture without sacrificing too much.
I boosted BC to 5 (out of 10), boosted brightness up to 4, contrast up to 4. It put out a great picture! Hardly looked different from the 120" picture, just bigger.

I tweaked the user settings on Gamma and color temp a bit, and actually got a slightly better picture than there standard modes. I tried boosting BC up to 9, but it seemed to begin to affect the colors negatively, although it was brighter. Didn't seem to affect contrast though - in fact, it seemed to improve it.

I watched all of the same materials. Again. Great picture! And somewhat startling in certain scenes, such as space explosions. Going from a big dark beautiful star field to a big fiery spaceship fireball is visceral at that size.

I then began to AB, and this is where the 1000 finally revealed its best application. IN all the scenes, it outpaced the 3000 in the usual categories - brightness, contrast, detail, color accuracy. In fact, I would say with the minor intensity boosting setting changes made to it mentioned above, the picture was just as good at 133" as it was at 120".
I worked on tweaking the 3000 again, just to see if I could wheedle a few more lumens prior to sacrificing other areas out of it, but I had done a thorough job before - it was operating at its peak. it still looked GREAT! But you could tell it was not the same level of picture as it was at 106", or even at 120".

I mentioned "Fog" earlier, and now the results had reversed. It seemed the 3000 was the unit with the ever so slight "fog", and the 1000 had the sharper, richer, more 3D picture. Was the picture as "good" as the 3000 at 106" inches?. Not in terms of contrast, black level or detail, by a small margin, but it certainly was close, and it was MUCH bigger , which is important in my application (big room).

Here's an interesting note - I was just about to call it a night, when I began thinking about the lumen specs. The 1000 is supposed to be 50% brighter than the 3000. It's definitely brighter, but didn't seem to be 50% brighter. On a whim, I tried moving the Gamma, which I hadn't needed to mess with on the 1000 due to the acceptable brightness, up to "video". A MUCH brighter picture! And, hardly any difference in the picture quality other than a slight shift in color temperature and grayscale. I tried boosting BC up to 7, then 8, and observed the same thing - much brighter picture, and hardly any quality degradation. Colors were still good, and no apparent crushing of whites or blacks.

I went back to the A/B tests again, and the differences were immediately noticeable. At this size screen, with the 1000 both projectors "stretched out" (only the 3000 was stretched before), there is a much bigger difference in lumen output.

On a whim, I selected the "Sports" gamma on the 3000. Like before, it really w ashes out the picture, though it does brighten it. I then tried the "sports" gamma on the 1000. What a difference. It was almost searingly bright, too much so, but the interesting thing was that it didn't seem to affect the color temperature or the shadow detail. Whites were just beginnig to be crushed, and were actually tameable by bringing down the brighness that I had boosted earlier.
It was a very watchable picture, made even more so when I turned on some low level light in the room. Not videophile, but pretty amazing. I have a Dell 4100 at the house which is a business projector rated at 2200 lumens, 2000 contrast. I fired it up in place of the 3000, just for comparison. There was none. The 1000 appeared to be brighter, and of course had a MUCH more theatrical image in contrast, detail and color rendering - made the Dell look like it was showing cartoons rather than video.

Conclusion
These projectors are almost identical, with two slightly different applications. If you are going for a screen of 120" or smaller, definitely the 3000 will throw a better image. If you are at 120" or greater, the 1000 will throw a better image. The 3000 at 106" in its absolute best mode will throw a slightly richer, more refined picture - the 1000 is just too bright, and doesn't "stop down" as well as the 3000.
I would almost chalk this up entirely to the iris Above, i mentioned that I tried both of them at the 120" mark with the iris off on the 3000, and the pictures were for all intent and purposes identical.

I was really surprised at how similar the images of these tow projectors were. Let me throw out a theory -
I think the 1000 only engages the white segment when certain settings are used, for example "Sports" or when BC is turned way up. Because of the incremental BC settings, I am thinking that it incrementally increases white segment use, if at all, along with its BC adjustments. Or, possibly it ONLY engages when "Sports" gamma is chosen.
For the 3000, the only reason it has the slightly better picture at small end is because of the iris.
I think Mitsubishi took the exact same projector - light engine, bulb, processing chips, etc. and simply added these tweaks - iris to the 3000 and white segment to the 1000. These elements only kick in when the user chooses settings to take advantage of them - "iris on" for the 3000 or "SPorts" for the 1000.
Looking back over the results, when you remove either element, they are almost perfectly identical. I think the cost differential has been driven by the market, rather than the quality or components of the units.

I wich someone form Mitsubishi would jump in and comment.

Feel free to ask questions - though one is going back very soon

Blessings

http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/...d.php?t=748775

Hope this helps but it is all subjective since we all have different screens, lighting, taste etc.

Terence that is fantastic info, just what I was looking for. Makes me feel good now about buying a 3000 with 200 hours on it for $400 shipped. I think that is a fair deal don't you? Thanks a million and I hope you and yours had a very safe and happy new year. Have a great day.

Golffnutt

It is a good deal and you are welcome.

Hay guys....I'm a hd1000 owner of 2 1/2 years now and still love this thing but it's time for a new bulb..

I have always run it on low lamp and it's at 2800 hours now and is starting to get noticeably dimmer in low mode..It's good in high but I don't like the fan noise as it sits right over my head about 2' away..

http://www.advancedlamps.com/product...oducts_id=6505

Is this the real deal lamp from mists for this pj..It's only 174.00 now and seems to good to be true..Anyone order from this place?

I don't know, but thanks for the link!!

No it's not a genuine Mitsubishi replacement lamp. It's a genuine "AL" replacement lamp that fits Mitsubishi projectors like the HD1000, HC1500 & HC1600. Always be leary if the price is not at least in the upper $200 range. Also pay real close attention to words like OEM replacement. Make sure the manufacturer is Mitsubishi, it will also come in a Mitsubishu box not any other box. Take a look at this one from buy.com. If you scroll way down to the specs you'll see it's manufacturered by Mitsubishi http://www.buy.com/prod/mitsubishi-replacement-lamp-projector-lamp-mitsubishi-replacement-lamp/q/loc/111/202333757.html

Thanks for the response, looks like I'll get that one you linked from buy.com...I love this PJ and am not going to be upgrading anytime soon, so I want the oem bulb...

I haven't posted in awhile, but here's a link to bulb replacement I captured awhile back and I believe it's buried somewhere in this thread...

Try this place for OEM replacement -

http://www.amatteroffax.com/itempage...u-hd1000u.html


Regards,
BK

I bought the one from buy.com about 1 yr ago, but try calling the one sneaky linked to. From their add it looks like it's made by Mitsubishi. I'd give them a call and ask if it's manufactured by Mitsubishi. If so I'd pick it up and if its in a brown Mitsubishu box and is the right model number you're good to go.

I'm sending my HD1000 out Monday to be repaired. It's making a whining noise, which I think is the color wheel. Luckily, my Warrantech ext. warranty is still good. Has anyone dealt with them before? I have to send it to a place called DTR Technologies in Denver, CO. How much does a color wheel cost to repair? Is there any chance they'll give me a new bulb? Thanks.

Hi Jim,

I don't want to be the one to start your new year off on the wrong foot but replacing the color wheel is a pretty expensive proposition, about $375 give or take $25.

I just had mine replaced Christmas Eve morning by the Warrentech rep who came to my house and replaced it. I must tell you though it was a total nightmare getting it accomplished.

It took 6.5 weeks from the first phone call to Warrantech until Christmas Eve when it was replaced. It was both Warrantech and the electronic company (Norman's Electronics - Atlanta, Ga) fault. It took WT almost a week to call me back with the name of the repair co. It took the Norman's another 10 days to come out and diagnose the problem, eventhough I told them the problem over the phone 10 days earlier. They then went back and mailed a cost estimate to WT for approval, mail probably took 4 or 5 days. WT then took another week to approve it and send back to Norman's. Norman's then took about 2-3 days to order the color wheel (supposed) from Mits, then it took Mits about a week to get it to Normans, then it took Normans about another week to send in the Tech, but wait a minute, just as Normans called me to let me know the tech was coming low and behold the tech calls and says he has the wrong part and that Normans ordered the wrong part, this was about the first week of Dec. Now Normans has to resubmit a new estimate to WT because they used the cost of the wrong part that they had ordered on the first estimate. So this took a few days. Then WT finally gets the new estimate and they sit on it for a few days but finally get it back to Normans. Trust me when I say, this whole time I was talking daily, 2-3 times a day to both, Norman's and WT following up on this. Normans then orders the right part (the color wheel) and we wait another week for it to come in and then finally on Christmas EVE morning my new color wheel was installed by the tech sitting at my kitchen table. Wow, is that a story for you or what.

I did get Projector People (where I bought my 1000 and my WT warranty) involved after about 2 weeks into the procedure because of all the problems and I must say they were great. They made phone calls to both Norman's and WT trying to speed up the process but there was only so much they could do too.

So this is my story on WT. Told you, I didn't want to ruin your new year but you ask so here you to. Hope you have better luck. My advice, stay on the phone, with one foot up their you know what every day. Good luck.

Golffnutt

Thanks, you made my day. Since mine's already been approved by Warrantech, maybe it'll be faster. At least I still have my X1.

You are welcome, have a nice evening.

Golffnutt

I noticed another problem tonight with my HD1000. I was watching a 2.35:1 movie(DVD) and there was a band about 3/4" high, all the way across the top and bottom of screen. The bands are within the image, not outside it. I checked 2 other 2.35:1 DVD's, and they had the same thing. What could this be? Is anyone else having this problem? Thanks.

what you are seeing is a mask around the DLP chip (light leakage) in the light path, this normal operation for the HD1000U. My wall is painted and I don't notice it unless the screen is showing a complete blk image. Which is very rare in my case, if your wall is white I'm sure it is very noticable however nothing is wrong with your pj.

NO, that is not what I'm seeing. If you re-read my post, the band is within the image. This just started happening.

I just ordered from them. I'll let you all know what happens when it shows up.

My bad!

Can you post a pic of what you are seeing?