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Any Mitsubishi HD1000U owners out there? - Page 15

post #421 of 2598
Quote:
Originally Posted by ravencr View Post

So, really it would probably be best to upcovert from the DVD player to the projector, which would keep the projectoer from having to downconvert to 720p from 1080i, right? The less converting the better, right?

Chris

I was experimenting with this last night. I found the Bravo D1 set at 720P via HDMI was the best. The Bravo component out was crap (not unexpected). Surprisingly, my old 480i Sony DVD player's component out looked very good. They stacked up as follows:

1) 720P Bravo via HDMI
2) 480i Sony via component (a little less resolution, deinterlace artifacts)
3) 480P Bravo via HDMI (a little less resolution)
4) 1080i Bravo via HDMI (Looked about the same as 480P, but with deinterlace artifacts)
5) 854x480P Bravo via HDMI (Colors washed out - probably the Bravo)
6) All the Bravo analog modes via component looked terrible

The component inputs of the HD1000 are very good and with a good source are just about indistinguishable from HDMI. What hurt on the HD1000 was the deinterlacing. All of the interlaced modes suffered from visible deinterlacing artifacts on my test DVD, The Incredible's. Specifically I was looking at the cars trailer on that disk. In the interlaced modes there was flickering pixels around McQueen's windshield just before he runs through the swarm of bees. These artifacts all but disappeared on the progressive modes.

The bottom line is chances are the DVD player's deinterlacer is better than the projector's. The scaler in the HD1000u appears okay, but the best way to know for sure is try the various combinations and find the one that works best for your equipment.

I also found the sharpness control of the projector just introduces artifacts. The best setting for this was 0. Even a setting of 1 or 2 made artifacts visible, such as around the desk lamp shade on the Pixar logo.

-Mike
post #422 of 2598
Quote:
Originally Posted by bri1270 View Post

Warning - Naive Question: What's Do-able board?

It is a white laminate material avaliable at (some) Home Depot stores. It is 1/4" thick, about 1.0 gain and matte white. I read about it in the DIY screen forum where there is an extensive thread about it. It sure helped justify my PJ purchase when I was able to hit high WAF points by building a screen for $50 versus $500 for a Carada.

post #423 of 2598
I got mine yesterday, and let me say, its amazing (im just projecting onto my white wall too). Gears of War looks awesome, and Resistance on the PS3 looks great as well. I just watched the Last Samurai, and it was awesome even with some light coming into my room. I tried to take some pictures, but my camera doesnt like to haha. Best $ ive spent in a long, long time
post #424 of 2598
Thanks Mike. I guess I better get to reading the DIY screen area as well.

Chris
post #425 of 2598
Got my HD1000u last week from Projector People. Tremendous upgrade for me from my Infocus X1....I was impressed with the brightness, HD content looks amazing on this projector.

This is what I tested:

Scientific Atlanta 8300HD via HDMI both 1080i and 720p
Xbox 360 via VGA 1280x720
Xbox 360 HD-DVD via VGA 1280x720
Philips Progressive Scan DVD Player via Component Cable 480p

I must say that besides the brightness, the X1 handles better the analog inputs for the DVD at 480p and when watching non-hd TV content..

I am pretty happy with my new MitHD1000u. The price is great, just under US$ 900.00

Thanks
post #426 of 2598
I just received my "free replacement bulb" coupon from Mitsubishi. I bought from Projector People on 11/20, the last day the offer was available, at the then-new reduced price - not quite a cheap as y'all are getting today, but given that I actually got the coupon, I'm pretty pleased. I've got to say I'm impressed: I mailed in the rebate on 12/20 (had to wait for the last day, y'know), so this has to be one of the fastest turnaround on rebates I've ever seen from anyone.

In case you're curious, the deal is that the coupon is valid for 12 months, and I can send it in any time. The caveat, if you consider it a caveat, is that the 90-day warranty on the replacement bulb starts the day they ship it. So it clearly behooves you to wait as long as possible, but obviously not more than 12 months.

So, I'm pretty pleased with Mitsubishi right now.

-Reid
post #427 of 2598
I hate to ask this here, but I'm about to buy my cables and need to know what I need to hook everything up. Here's my setup:

1) Onkyo HTIB - No HDMI
2) Opp 970HD DVD
3) Dish Network Non-HD Receiver
4) HD1000U

Thanks a lot for the help,

Chris
post #428 of 2598
HDMI cable from 970HD to HD1000U.

Probably component cables from the Dish network to either the Onkyo HTIB or the HD1000U, your choice. I'd run them to the HTIB for the convenience if you ever later decide to add more component sources.

Digital Coax or Optical from the 970HD to the HTIB.

Most likely just L/R RCA audio cables from the Dish Network receiver to the HTIB.

I am uncertain on the connections from the dish network receiver to the HTIB because I do not know what connections you have available.

You may want to upgrade the speaker wire of the front speakers at least to 14 or 16 gauge (no larger than 14 or it won't fit!).
post #429 of 2598
Quote:
Originally Posted by EocThermos View Post

HDMI cable from 970HD to HD1000U.

Gotcha!
Quote:



Probably component cables from the Dish network to either the Onkyo HTIB or the HD1000U, your choice. I'd run them to the HTIB for the convenience if you ever later decide to add more component sources.

I'm totally confused on this part. I'm so new to this, but how would connecting the component video cables to the HTIB get from the HTIB to the projector to display the video? I'm a totally stupid, but I would think it would have to be connected to the projector directly. But, as you mention, I'd prefer to do it directly to the HTIB instead mainly because the cables can be much shorter and less expensive. Sorry for my stupidity.
Quote:



Digital Coax or Optical from the 970HD to the HTIB.

Again, I'm lost here for similar reasons. I realize that the HDMI cable will support both video and audio, but I'm confused as to why some run a coaxial or optical from the projector to the HTIB and some just run it from the 970HD to the HTIB? This is really confusing me. I'd like to run as few cables as possible to the projector, mainly because I can't access the are above the ceiling at all, so hiding a big clump of wires is going to be tough/impossible.
Quote:



Most likely just L/R RCA audio cables from the Dish Network receiver to the HTIB.

Gotcha!
Quote:



I am uncertain on the connections from the dish network receiver to the HTIB because I do not know what connections you have available.

You may want to upgrade the speaker wire of the front speakers at least to 14 or 16 gauge (no larger than 14 or it won't fit!).

I think you're right on the dish connection, and I've upgraded to 16 guage wire for the HTIB already. IT's installed and I love it. I really appreciate the help with all this. I'm a total idiot when it comes to this stuff.

Chris
post #430 of 2598
You would need to run a component video cable from the HTIB to the PJ. The only reason not to run it directly is if you ever use anything besides the dish receiver- some video game systems perhaps. You could always change this fairly easily at a later time if you want to.

You're the one confusing me with your response to the coax or optical cable to the HTIB! I meant to run the coax from the Oppo 970HD to the HTIB receiver, for sound only. Also run an HDMI from the oppo to the PJ, for video only. Although the HDMI can carry sound, your best option is to use the coax or optical (I don't know which is better, sorry) for sound and the HDMI for video only. I don't even know if you can use the HDMI for both with the onkyo receiver.

So, all things considered you will need to run:
1. HDMI from DVD player to PJ
2. Component Video from Dish network receiver to PJ.

+ Audio cables
1. Coax or optical from dvd player to Onkyo receiver
2. RCA L/R audio from dish receiver to Onkyo.

This is all you will need for those two sources. If you have any other sources, or anticipate ever having more sources- video game consoles, computer, whatever else- let me know.

I hear you on hiding wires and the like! I've got my work cut out for me figuring out how to hide all the speaker wire + video cables.

edit: forgot to mention... www.monoprice.com is your friend when it comes time to order the wires
post #431 of 2598
Okay, so I got the projector hooked up to the Oppo DVD. Temporarily I've got normal RCA's running from the DVD to the Onkyo, and I know I need to change that. Here's the problem or challenge though. My Dish receiver doesn't have component video outputs. So, should I use the S-video directly from the Dish to the projector, or should I just run a single video cable out from the dish to the projector and run the RCA's to the HTIB for the sound? I want the best picture I can get and right now with the single video cable hooked up it's running at TV60 as the resolution. Is that normal resolution for standard non-hd tv? Is S-video better than one rca type connection for the video? Thanks again for all the help,

Chris

P.S. I put the DVD player up to 1080i and the picture is pretty outstanding just playing on our beige textured wall. I can't wait to get the Do-able white laminate installed. It's a little dark even with all the lights off, which is probably because of the beige color.
post #432 of 2598
Hi,

I have the Optoma HD70, but want to get the Mitsubishi instead because of the positive reviews here. I have read on this forum that the Mitsubishi has a steeper offset than the Optoma, but I have also read on projectorreviews.com that the Optoma and the Mitsubishi have similar zoom and offset. Here is what projectorreviews.com said:

"The amount of lens offset is significant, so proper placement of the projector is well below the bottom of the screen surface (or an equal amount above - if ceiling mounting). For that same 100" diagonal screen, the HD70's lens should sit about 16" below the screen bottom. (This is an estimate, so don't build your room around it.) the manual is very confusing on this point. I will correct later with more accurate data. All considered this is typical for a low cost DLP projector, in fact very similar to its closest competition the Mitsubishi HD1000U, which also has a 1.2:1 zoom, and a similar offset."

Placement is very important to me because the placement of my HD70 barely works. If the Mitsubishi is more difficult to place, I can't have it. Any thoughts? Thanks.
post #433 of 2598
ravencr- I'd go with S-video over composite video. Run a cable from the dish receiver to the PJ or from the dish receiver to the HTIB receiver to the PJ- your choice.

Use the composite audio outs for sound, running to the HTIB.

What cables are you using for the 970HD? I don't think component will carry 1080i without hacked firmware.

Also, I would try both 720p and 1080i to see which gives you better picture. The PJ will display everything at 720p, but it may be better to upconvert, adding more resolution, then let the PJ downconvert and deinterlace. The rule of thumb is to use 720p with this PJ, but i've recently heard a couple of people talking about 1080i giving them a better image.

-----

Davidt1- try this download from mitsubishi: projection throw distance calculator, 3/4ths of the way down the page: http://www.mitsubishi-presentations....tor_tools.html

It should tell you everything you need to know about placement. Grab a tape measure and you should be able to figure out if it would work in your setup. Post if you have further questions.
post #434 of 2598
Quote:


Placement is very important to me because the placement of my HD70 barely works. If the Mitsubishi is more difficult to place, I can't have it. Any thoughts? Thanks.

There's a very good projection distance calculator on the Mits website. That should help you.

http://www.mitsubishi-hometheater.com/familyroom.asp#2

The calculator is on the right hand side, 4th paragraph down, sencond to last line. You have to download it, but it's one of the better ones I've seen.
post #435 of 2598
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reid_T View Post

I just received my "free replacement bulb" coupon from Mitsubishi. I bought from Projector People on 11/20, the last day the offer was available, at the then-new reduced price - not quite a cheap as y'all are getting today, but given that I actually got the coupon, I'm pretty pleased. I've got to say I'm impressed: I mailed in the rebate on 12/20 (had to wait for the last day, y'know), so this has to be one of the fastest turnaround on rebates I've ever seen from anyone.

In case you're curious, the deal is that the coupon is valid for 12 months, and I can send it in any time. The caveat, if you consider it a caveat, is that the 90-day warranty on the replacement bulb starts the day they ship it. So it clearly behooves you to wait as long as possible, but obviously not more than 12 months.

So, I'm pretty pleased with Mitsubishi right now.

-Reid

Wait 90 days. At that time, the warranty on your original bulb will expire. Send in the coupon, use the new bulb for 90 days. Go back to the old bulb and put the new "seasoned" bulb in a safe place.

-Mike
post #436 of 2598
Quote:
Originally Posted by EocThermos View Post

ravencr- I'd go with S-video over composite video. Run a cable from the dish receiver to the PJ or from the dish receiver to the HTIB receiver to the PJ- your choice.

Will it function any differently if I pick one way over the other?
Quote:



Use the composite audio outs for sound, running to the HTIB.

Gotcha!
Quote:


What cables are you using for the 970HD? I don't think component will carry 1080i without hacked firmware.

I've temporarily got HDMI running from the Oppo to the projector, and when I checked the resolutions I was able to set the DVD to 1080i and then checked the resolution on the pj and it stated it was at 1080i.
Quote:



Also, I would try both 720p and 1080i to see which gives you better picture. The PJ will display everything at 720p, but it may be better to upconvert, adding more resolution, then let the PJ downconvert and deinterlace. The rule of thumb is to use 720p with this PJ, but i've recently heard a couple of people talking about 1080i giving them a better image.

That's what I heard as well. When you say let the pj upconvert it, how do I know it's upconverting the DVD's 480p signal to 720p, because when I initially installed it it was 480p on both units? So, that's when I changed the DVD resolution to 1080i and then the pj read 1080i as well. Did I understand you correctly?

Chris
post #437 of 2598
Hi there, I have a few questions for anyone who can answer (any of them...

I'm planning on getting the 1000U in the near future.

1. It states the bulb life is 2000-3000 (eco mode 3000)... Do most of you run it in ECO mode, I noticed one person said even in moderate light ECO mode was great, especially in "sports mode". (my setup will have moderate light at times, though nearly completely dark when needed).

2. Does the 3000 hour life mean the bulb will go out at that point or be 50% as bright?

3. My setup is rather kludgy as I am going to be "hanging" my projection screen from a wooden entertainment center in the living room (until I can finish off the basement and do a much larger setup)... the diagonal I will probably shoot will be 65" but I may try to push that out to about 73". My ceilings are about 7.5' high and the sitting position is about 12.5' back (with about 3 feet to work with behind that point). We also have these beams on the ceiling which make the ceiling height about 8" lower on those points. I believe the top of the screen will be about 3' below the ceiling or so. I am shooting for a ceiling mount, I wasnt sure if I should place the projector between the viewing spot and the screen or behind the screen (using the zoom in some way to go from say 65" to 73" if I change the setup). If I am not able to do a ceiling mount, this may be a stupid question, but does the unit have to be in a straight line with the screen, or can it be offset (say on a side table), as I dont have a way to mount the projector on a shelf behind the couch due to windows.

4. Screen types.. Initially I was going to go with a Dalite HC matte screen like this one: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...ist&sku=311121 ; However, if I try to go with a larger screen size, I'll end up covering up my screen, so would I need a perforated screen to allow the sound to pass throuhg? My budget initially, for the screen, is around $150 max.. Are there any cheap electric screens I could move to as well? I also wasnt sure if a High Contrast "slightly grey" screen was best (at first), but after some tips, it appears this is correct...

5. Anyone using Comcast HD Dvr's out there.. if so.. have you found any improvements in going the HDMI route? (and 720p vs 1080i?)

6. Xbox 360.. I guess it is a must using the HD-DVD player, when using standard DVD's to upscale, to go with VGA (as the components wont allow upscaling)? What resolution are most people setting the VGA on the 360 to? Is there any benefit (or can it) in going with a higher resolution than xx X 720.. to say 1280 x 1080 ? (I also wasnt sure if there is an equivalent VGA resolution that would emulate a 1080i setup)...

Thanks for any advice.
post #438 of 2598
markm75- I answer a couple of your Q's at the end
ravencr- here's a reply to you

Quote:
Originally Posted by ravencr View Post

Will it function any differently if I pick one way over the other?

Not really. You will need to change the source on both the HTIB receiver and the PJ either way, so it doesn't really make a difference. Although after doing a bit more reading, it appears the signal may degrade slightly. You may not notice a difference, but if its all the same to you, best to run it direct to the display.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ravencr View Post

I've temporarily got HDMI running from the Oppo to the projector, and when I checked the resolutions I was able to set the DVD to 1080i and then checked the resolution on the pj and it stated it was at 1080i. That's what I heard as well. When you say let the pj upconvert it, how do I know it's upconverting the DVD's 480p signal to 720p, because when I initially installed it it was 480p on both units? So, that's when I changed the DVD resolution to 1080i and then the pj read 1080i as well. Did I understand you correctly?

Chris

No, i don't think you did. Let me take a step back in the explanation- sorry if you know some of this already, but if you don't, you need to if you want to understand the input of the DVD player.

Okay, the PJ can *only* display 720p. Nothing else! Therefore, whenever you send the PJ a signal other than 720p, it will in some way convert it to 720p. 480i, which is all DVDs (except Blu-ray/HD-DVD) and TV signals (american at least, except the HD signals of course), will be de-interlaced (the i stands for interlaced, the p for progressive) and upconverted to 720p, because that is all the PJ can display. When the PJ says the signal is 480p, that is referring to the signal it is receiving, which it then converts to 720p.

If you send it a 720p signal, it will display it with no resizing/upscaling/deinterlacing. This is theoretically the best resolution to send it, if the source is that resolution natively! All other resolutions are processed. Most are processed by the PJ, but some are processed by, for example, the Oppo 970HD. You want the 970HD to process the image if the processor in the 970HD will do a better job than that of the PJ- and it probably will. If you set it to 720p, then the image will be upconverted to 720p by the DVD player, which the PJ will then display.

However, some people have said they get better results by converting to 1080i, the letting the PJ *down*convert (not upconvert as you seem to have misread from my post) to 720p. It is up to you which does a better job in your case. Try all the settings, and see which image you like the best. Remember that whatever setting you choose, the DVD disc only has 480i and the PJ will only display 720p- the question is how is the image processed from 480i to 720p. Different methods of processing will likely give noticeably different results- so it is up to you to decide for yourself which one gives the best.

The summary: try all the options, decide which looks best, set it, forget it, and don't care about all the technical mumbo-jumbo of how or why it looks the best

-------

markm75:
1. not sure- my PJ doesn't arrive until Saturday

2. Yes, the given life on bulbs does refer to the half life.

3. Yes, the unit must be in line with the screen- there is no horizontal lens offset. I would probably mount it in front of the screen, on the ceiling, likely between the viewing location and the screen. Mount it close to the max throw range, then you can zoom in if you desire. Use the mitsubishi calculator (linked a few posts ago by me and then again by someone else) to get a general idea on posistioning.

4. You say if you get a larger screen you'll cover up your... screen? Do you mean your speakers? In that case, I would reccommend an acoustically transparent screen. I've heard good things about the smx screens, but have never actually seen one. Google it if you're interested- though they may be a bit beyond your price range.

Monoprice has some electric screens in that range, although I've never seen one, so no promises as to the quality. Go over the the screen forum and you can find a thread on them.

5. never used it, sorry =/

6. Read my explanation to ravencr for more details, but basically: some have said that with standard def DVD players, they have a better image setting it a higher resolution and letting the PJ scale it down to its native resolution. Others say its best to leave it in the PJ's native resolution. Try it both ways and see what works for you.
post #439 of 2598
Quote:
Originally Posted by EocThermos View Post

markm75- I answer a couple of your Q's at the end
ravencr- here's a reply to you




3. Yes, the unit must be in line with the screen- there is no horizontal lens offset. I would probably mount it in front of the screen, on the ceiling, likely between the viewing location and the screen. Mount it close to the max throw range, then you can zoom in if you desire. Use the mitsubishi calculator (linked a few posts ago by me and then again by someone else) to get a general idea on posistioning.

.

Thanks for the helpful tips.. I'm confused on one thing there though... When you say Zoom in... I cant remember from the few times I've borrowed a projector.. does zooming "in" make the image smaller (diagonally) or bigger?

You said to position it at its maximum throw range.. I've tried the calculator both online and the downloadable one.. IE: (I've finalized that I can fit a 69" screen in my space, i doubt I'll go bigger).. for 69" diag.. it has a distance of 8.2 feet back (sitting is 12.5 feet).. with 7.5' ceilings and a 9" pole (making the screen's bottom height about 33" above the floor, which should line up niceless with my stand that has all the components))...

So this value of 8.2 feet is the maximum throw distance or the recommended one to not use any zoom?

For zooming in.. does this result in a decrease in brightness? Someone has told me before that max zoom (in or out?) being shortest throw distance gives the Maximum brightness.. I'd prefer the max brightness as there often be a fair amount of ambient light.

Thanks for the help
post #440 of 2598
Quote:
Originally Posted by markm75 View Post

Thanks for the helpful tips.. I'm confused on one thing there though... When you say Zoom in... I cant remember from the few times I've borrowed a projector.. does zooming "in" make the image smaller (diagonally) or bigger?

You said to position it at its maximum throw range.. I've tried the calculator both online and the downloadable one.. IE: (I've finalized that I can fit a 69" screen in my space, i doubt I'll go bigger).. for 69" diag.. it has a distance of 8.2 feet back (sitting is 12.5 feet).. with 7.5' ceilings and a 9" pole (making the screen's bottom height about 33" above the floor, which should line up niceless with my stand that has all the components))...

So this value of 8.2 feet is the maximum throw distance or the recommended one to not use any zoom?

For zooming in.. does this result in a decrease in brightness? Someone has told me before that max zoom (in or out?) being shortest throw distance gives the Maximum brightness.. I'd prefer the max brightness as there often be a fair amount of ambient light.

Thanks for the help

at 69" (thats a very small screen size for front projection the image will be extremly bright...(maybe too bright) at any zoom...BTW the brightness at different zooms is not really very noticable.....69" wow thats the smallest setup for front projection I think I've read about. Alsomost seems like a waste at that size and not really worth the cost of the bulbs / vs performence over a Rear projection TV. especially with a fair amount of ambient light ...remember the blacks will only be as black as the white screen looks in the light. Front projection really shines as a theater like setup most people start out around 90" and eventually feel the need to go bigger.
post #441 of 2598
Quote:
Originally Posted by EocThermos View Post

markm75- I answer a couple of your Q's at the end
ravencr- here's a reply to you



Not really. You will need to change the source on both the HTIB receiver and the PJ either way, so it doesn't really make a difference. Although after doing a bit more reading, it appears the signal may degrade slightly. You may not notice a difference, but if its all the same to you, best to run it direct to the display.



No, i don't think you did. Let me take a step back in the explanation- sorry if you know some of this already, but if you don't, you need to if you want to understand the input of the DVD player.

Okay, the PJ can *only* display 720p. Nothing else! Therefore, whenever you send the PJ a signal other than 720p, it will in some way convert it to 720p. 480i, which is all DVDs (except Blu-ray/HD-DVD) and TV signals (american at least, except the HD signals of course), will be de-interlaced (the i stands for interlaced, the p for progressive) and upconverted to 720p, because that is all the PJ can display. When the PJ says the signal is 480p, that is referring to the signal it is receiving, which it then converts to 720p.

If you send it a 720p signal, it will display it with no resizing/upscaling/deinterlacing. This is theoretically the best resolution to send it, if the source is that resolution natively! All other resolutions are processed. Most are processed by the PJ, but some are processed by, for example, the Oppo 970HD. You want the 970HD to process the image if the processor in the 970HD will do a better job than that of the PJ- and it probably will. If you set it to 720p, then the image will be upconverted to 720p by the DVD player, which the PJ will then display.

However, some people have said they get better results by converting to 1080i, the letting the PJ *down*convert (not upconvert as you seem to have misread from my post) to 720p. It is up to you which does a better job in your case. Try all the settings, and see which image you like the best. Remember that whatever setting you choose, the DVD disc only has 480i and the PJ will only display 720p- the question is how is the image processed from 480i to 720p. Different methods of processing will likely give noticeably different results- so it is up to you to decide for yourself which one gives the best.

The summary: try all the options, decide which looks best, set it, forget it, and don't care about all the technical mumbo-jumbo of how or why it looks the best

-------

markm75:
1. not sure- my PJ doesn't arrive until Saturday

2. Yes, the given life on bulbs does refer to the half life.

3. Yes, the unit must be in line with the screen- there is no horizontal lens offset. I would probably mount it in front of the screen, on the ceiling, likely between the viewing location and the screen. Mount it close to the max throw range, then you can zoom in if you desire. Use the mitsubishi calculator (linked a few posts ago by me and then again by someone else) to get a general idea on posistioning.

4. You say if you get a larger screen you'll cover up your... screen? Do you mean your speakers? In that case, I would reccommend an acoustically transparent screen. I've heard good things about the smx screens, but have never actually seen one. Google it if you're interested- though they may be a bit beyond your price range.

Monoprice has some electric screens in that range, although I've never seen one, so no promises as to the quality. Go over the the screen forum and you can find a thread on them.

5. never used it, sorry =/

6. Read my explanation to ravencr for more details, but basically: some have said that with standard def DVD players, they have a better image setting it a higher resolution and letting the PJ scale it down to its native resolution. Others say its best to leave it in the PJ's native resolution. Try it both ways and see what works for you.

thats not completly true...if you send the 720p projector a 1080p signal it wil software interpolate and in a non pixel mapped way show 1080p it just does the best it can to show more than one pixel on every native hardware pixel just like a inkjet printer (the max hardware res for thermal inkjet is 2400dpi) can print at up to 4800dpi for photos. also thier is a huge difference in ways to scale somthing a 480i source for example I believe is just converted to 480p by being interlaced and the 480p image is just blown up to fill the 720p image...I'm not sure there is a line doubler and additional software needed to truly add the fake additional resolution. Again it like the different from just blowing an image up and printing it at say 24x 36 and actually using rip software with features like sharpen and enhance ect. to artifically create what it thinks the higher resolution (larger) image should look like by creating more pixels not just blowing them up. seperate video processor that actually do upscale the image usually cost more than the HD70 does.

this is (like I stated before) Why HD material looks better than 480p on a 480p projector.
Also I should add its not Ideal to take a natively lower res image say 480 or 720p and scale it up to 1080 just to have the projector scale it back down to 720p as there is no real added resolution to work with and it will just introduce scaling artifacts.But some do prefer the smoother looking picture on lower res projectors (makes it harder to see screen door effect)
post #442 of 2598
If you look on the online or mitsubishi calculator, there should be a range of distance.

I just plugged in your numbers to the mitsu calc: 8.2 feet would be the closest you can get. The second projector on the calculator represents the farthest distance- in this case 119.2 or just under 10 feet. I would reccommend mounting at about 9 feet, giving you a little room to play around with fitting the image size, if you are certain you can never fit a screen larger than 69 inches. And I agree, 69 is a bit small, especially if you will have some lighting. If the room will be dark most of the time, then I would prefer front projection over rear because of the cost and the viewing angle, but with some ambient lighting... not sure how well it will work.

edit: thanks for the correction augiedoggy- I was going based off what I had read, which apparently was inaccurate.

Either way, the end result of "try both and see which looks better" is the same
post #443 of 2598
Quote:
Originally Posted by EocThermos View Post

If you look on the online or mitsubishi calculator, there should be a range of distance.

I just plugged in your numbers to the mitsu calc: 8.2 feet would be the closest you can get. The second projector on the calculator represents the farthest distance- in this case 119.2 or just under 10 feet. I would reccommend mounting at about 9 feet, giving you a little room to play around with fitting the image size, if you are certain you can never fit a screen larger than 69 inches. And I agree, 69 is a bit small, especially if you will have some lighting. If the room will be dark most of the time, then I would prefer front projection over rear because of the cost and the viewing angle, but with some ambient lighting... not sure how well it will work.

viewing angle is worse with rear projection but cost is close perhaps cheaper when you factor in the longer bulb life on a rear projection unit. and better blacks in light. plus easier setup built in tuners ex
post #444 of 2598
Depends how much you use the unit. Getting a 69 inch RPTV compared to an $900 projector (including BOC screen) would leave a fair ammount of money left over for bulbs- long enough that you would probably want to upgrade whichever one you had before they equalled out- unless you use your T.V. 6+ hours per day.
post #445 of 2598
I for one will near go back to rear projection again as a main display...I've seen the light...cheezy pun intended.
My uncle visited me on new years and left grumbling about why he wasted so much moner on his RP dlp set after he saw my setup and put his jaw back in his mouth he was off the convince the wife that the old tv needed to go into the basment and he needed a bigger front projection system in the living room...I tried to convince him that maybe the other way around would make more sense but he wasn't goin for it.
post #446 of 2598
Quote:
Originally Posted by EocThermos View Post

Depends how much you use the unit. Getting a 69 inch RPTV compared to an $900 projector (including BOC screen) would leave a fair ammount of money left over for bulbs- long enough that you would probably want to upgrade whichever one you had before they equalled out- unless you use your T.V. 6+ hours per day.

Thats what I was going to reply with.. A Mits new is around $819.. a good DLP, at least based on the reviews I've seen would be minimally around $1400.. thats 720p.. there is a mitsubishi RP for around $1900 at circuit city (1080p even) and the best that I can see.. Sony SXRD for $2800 (this system has a 6000 hour bulb life compared to regular DLP at 60-80k) (these are all 57" to 60")..

And as everyone has said.. FP seem to have better viewing angles (I have tried a 1900 Lumens Sharp Projector from work and I can concur and even with my mild lighting, it still was sharp.. lighting here is a few lamps behind the position of viewing, with shades on them.. of course i can kill 90% of the light if need be)..

I calculated that at 7 hours a day on a 3000 hour bulb life.. thats a new bulb every 1.1 years (though I have read that even 3000 may imply when the bulb drops to 50% in brightness, not completely goes out (?)).. Thats only if we use the screen as our main TV and not holding to about 7 to 10 hours a week for its main usage instead (more likely at least with a FP screen setup in my case).

Has anyone ever gotten much beyond 3000 hours on any FP system.. curious..

Thanks
post #447 of 2598
Quote:
Originally Posted by EocThermos View Post

If you look on the online or mitsubishi calculator, there should be a range of distance.

I just plugged in your numbers to the mitsu calc: 8.2 feet would be the closest you can get. The second projector on the calculator represents the farthest distance- in this case 119.2 or just under 10 feet. I would reccommend mounting at about 9 feet, giving you a little room to play around with fitting the image size, if you are certain you can never fit a screen larger than 69 inches. And I agree, 69 is a bit small, especially if you will have some lighting. If the room will be dark most of the time, then I would prefer front projection over rear because of the cost and the viewing angle, but with some ambient lighting... not sure how well it will work.

edit: thanks for the correction augiedoggy- I was going based off what I had read, which apparently was inaccurate.

Either way, the end result of "try both and see which looks better" is the same


I had just tried this calculator and came up with those numbers.. thanks for verifying though... Yeah I'm limitted because in my living room we have these "piers" on each side of the "tv section".. I think the widest I can get the "tv section" is about 69", unless i just have the screen come down and "hide" the piers a bit.. this would be fine for occassional use.. but I have a feeling we'll end up using it very frequently (so the wife wouldnt be happy not being able to see the ent. center etc)..

You mentioned placing it around 9 feet for room.. would this also enable me to perhaps (someday) go with a larger diameter screen (does this involve the zoom factor)... I guess i'd want it placed for 69" but maybe going as high as say 80".. I dont know if placing it in such a way would diminish the quality/brightness on a 69" image though.

Thanks again
post #448 of 2598
Unless you really have excessive ambient lighting (especially anything directly on the screen), you should be fine placing it at the back of the throw range. That would allow you to get up to about 80 inches when you zoom in. I would give yourself a few inches of room to adjust, in case measurements or the calculator aren't completely exact.

The electric roll down screen from monoprice may be worth investigating. It seems like a great deal at that price, but I don't know the quality of the material of the screen and if it is likely to have waves.
post #449 of 2598
I currently own an Optoma H31 and Oppo 971. Mostly watch DVD movies in a 100" screen. Will there be a noticable difference in picture quality with HD1000U? The H31 is 3000:1 and HD1000U is 2500:1 contrast. Does this make a big difference? H31 is quite well light shielded against light spill from teh front and rear. How does HD1000U compare in light leak? Does the 8bit vs 10bit color processing make a huge visible difference ?
post #450 of 2598
Quote:
Originally Posted by psraj View Post

I currently own an Optoma H31 and Oppo 971. Mostly watch DVD movies in a 100" screen. Will there be a noticable difference in picture quality with HD1000U? The H31 is 3000:1 and HD1000U is 2500:1 contrast. Does this make a big difference? H31 is quite well light shielded against light spill from teh front and rear. How does HD1000U compare in light leak? Does the 8bit vs 10bit color processing make a huge visible difference ?

hd1000u has 10 bit anyway....the hd70 has 8 bit but only on the hdmi input...its a non issue...iv'e never seen any negitives from it...neither have most who post about it..and those that did really had to search for it and only found it on some scenes.
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