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Olevia 42" LCD Model 542i - Page 45

post #1321 of 1469
Quinapalus, thanks so much for that information. I am pretty close to a Frys so I will check it out. Just a quick question: I am not at home now so I can't check this for sure but on my Time Warner Cable box when I am viewing the HD channels it shows the letters HD and it also shows 1080i. Does this mean that I am receiving that many lines with my regular cables?
post #1322 of 1469
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blogball View Post

[...] but on my Time Warner Cable box when I am viewing the HD channels it shows the letters HD and it also shows 1080i. Does this mean that I am receiving that many lines with my regular cables?

No, that means that's what you'll be seeing when you get that HDMI cable! The cable box has several outputs of varying qualities, from Good Old 75ohm up to HDMI because they can't know what you'll be plugging it into. On the composite outputs (yellow/white/red) it's 480i because that's what the composite format is and it's what any TV will be expecting on its composite inputs. On component (r/g/b) it's 480p because that's what a component signal is, and so on. HDMI is a little cleverer and the box and the TV can chat a bit about whether the signal can be 720p, 1080i, or 1080p.

Now that I know you're going to Fry's, a little more detailed advice: my earlier allusion to "digging" was almost literal. My nearby Fry's is in Palo Alto and I think they have HDMI cables in at least three separate locations in the store: with the video accessories over by the DVD players and such, with the VGA and USB and all the other computer cables in that aisle near the laptops, and for some reason I think there are more in componentland over by the motherboards and hard drives and resistors and things. The video section has more expensive ones, the computer sections have less expensive ones. It's a pain, but if you spend half an hour sniffing around and find a $20 cable that's as good as a $60 one, that's not such a bad hourly rate. But I imagine you're already familiar with the tradeoffs we all make when we choose Fry's.
post #1323 of 1469
Sorry I feel pretty stupid my model # is 242T not 542i maybe 542i is the one with the 1 input.
post #1324 of 1469
Judging by recent posts in this thread, they've put out a new rev (B12?) of the 542i that has two HDMIs. I've had mine for a year or two so it's the original recipe with one HDMI. It has no bearing on what cables to get, though, because that's all exactly the same across all TVs. (Standards!)

In other news, I am so amped to hear about the direct input firmware. It'll take me a while to get around to getting a Harmony but this is the news I have been waiting for. Everyone involved in this effort r0x0rz m3 b0x0rz.

In other other news, the other reason I came back to this thread: they never put out a speaker-moving kit for the 542i, did they? There's no way to do that without just sawing the speaker fascia apart yourself? (Can't imagine why they made that one piece. It would have been so easy to make that mod take only a screwdriver.)
post #1325 of 1469
Quinapalus, thanks again looks like I will be going to Fry's and start digging. The thing I never liked anbout Fry's is when stuff is returned they throw it right back on the shelves. I guess with cables you can't go wrong. So HDMI cables are the same quality weather they going into computer or into HD TV?
post #1326 of 1469
Well, you can go wrong with cables, it's just that with a digital signal like HDMI, there's only one variable: it's either defective, or it's not. And yes, whatever the packaging, an HDMI cable is an HDMI cable.

Well, ok... more or less. Electricity isn't magic, it has laws it has to obey, and if you need the signal to go like 30-50 feet, you have to build the cable a little better. Under 15 feet, they're all functionally identical.
post #1327 of 1469
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregsachs View Post

try: http://64.168.125.230/support/Syntax...re/FW_2007-03/

Archiving for future use.

I've owned the 542i since last year, also just bough the 247TFHD last week, and without downloading the firmware, used my harmony 720, to map the direct input to my harmony 880, and walla, I have direct input on my 542i so not sure I need any further firmware updates.

I did update my firmware last year some time, I think December of 2006
post #1328 of 1469
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quinapalus View Post

I haven't tried it myself but the answer should be: huge difference. Component video (the rgb cables you describe) is at most 480p (480 lines, all of them refreshed each field) where HDMI will give you either 720p (720 lines) or 1080i (1080 lines, 540 of them refreshed each field).

But! 60 is way too much to spend for an HDMI cable. If you're in an area with a Fry's, you should be able to dig one up there for 20. People speak highly of some website called Monoprice for mail order. Don't be fooled into thinking that Monster cables are somehow better. Thicker cables being better applies to analog signals. With a digital signal, either the cable won't be good enough and there will be sparkling or bad pixels or something, or it will be good enough and the picture will be exactly the same as with every other cable that's good enough.

Your description of component video is actually inaccurate, it's capable of 480i, 480p, 576i, 576p, 720p, 1080i, and 1080p resolutions. For cablebox HD content (which is sometimes more compressed than plain OTA HD) I will contend that most folks won't see the difference between Component Video and HDMI. In fact, I'm running component video out of my HD cablebox (Cablevision cable) because I'm running a first gen 542i with only one HDMI input. I did numerous experiments and there was no significant gain in quality using HDMI out of the cablebox, so I used the HDMI input on the 542i for my HTPC which records/plays hi-def content and upscales all my SD DVDs.

But I totally agree about ordering through Monoprice for digital cables... stay away from the big box stores and their overpriced Monster cables!
post #1329 of 1469
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quinapalus View Post

No, that means that's what you'll be seeing when you get that HDMI cable! The cable box has several outputs of varying qualities, from Good Old 75ohm up to HDMI because they can't know what you'll be plugging it into. On the composite outputs (yellow/white/red) it's 480i because that's what the composite format is and it's what any TV will be expecting on its composite inputs. On component (r/g/b) it's 480p because that's what a component signal is, and so on. HDMI is a little cleverer and the box and the TV can chat a bit about whether the signal can be 720p, 1080i, or 1080p.

Again, this information is simply misleading and wrong. You can do your own research or simply read the Wikipedia article, i read through it quickly and it seems pretty accurate on the surface (I'm an electrical engineer):

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Component_video
post #1330 of 1469
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonychris View Post

Again, this information is simply misleading and wrong. You can do your own research or simply read the Wikipedia article, i read through it quickly and it seems pretty accurate on the surface (I'm an electrical engineer):

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Component_video

I think someone was confusing composite(yellow, red, white, for video, plus stereo audio), with component(3 rca for video, plus 2 for audio). Time warner supplies free component cables with HD boxes, so that is likely what he has. A plus eleventy for monoprice, for hdmi and other cables.
post #1331 of 1469
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quinapalus View Post

I haven't tried it myself but the answer should be: huge difference. Component video (the rgb cables you describe) is at most 480p (480 lines, all of them refreshed each field) where HDMI will give you either 720p (720 lines) or 1080i (1080 lines, 540 of them refreshed each field).

Absolutely UNTRUE!!!!

Component is capable of transmitting up to 1080p. SOME devices can have issues since it is analog as opposed to digital, but for short cable runs, I doubt you will see ANY difference regarding sharpness. I have a Motorola cable box and have sent both component and HDMI to the TV with no noticeable differences(from normal viewing distance..I did not sit 6 inches from the screen to check). There can be differences between color spaces.

Remember this is a 736p TV...so you are not going to run into any of the "theoretical" bandwidth issues of 1080p over analog.

Here is the wikipedia entry regarding component cabling.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Component_cable
post #1332 of 1469
Hey guys yes that’s what I have is the component cables that came with the box. I first called them RCA because I thought that’s what the type connections it was.
I just picked up a HDMI cable at Fry’s. Sure enough the prices ranged from $15.00 to over$ 100.00. I went with the 15.00 one (6 feet) in the computer section of the store.
It was packaged in an ugly bag with 2 staples holding the cardboard piece on top that described the product so I think a lot of this has to do with packaging. It’s probably this one that I found on line. http://shop3.outpost.com/product/489...H:MAIN_RSLT_PG

I will hook it up tonight and report back the results. After reading other forums there are so many conflicting comments on the difference between component and HDMI. Frankly I am not expecting that big of a change because I don’t see how there could be a much better picture than what I have now with the component cables.
post #1333 of 1469
Wow, I stand corrected, thanks. One point of clarification: do consumer component video inputs (e.g. on the 542i) somehow get both analog and digital, or are they exclusively analog that can sync at 720p or 1080i or whatever if that's what the source sends?
post #1334 of 1469
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quinapalus View Post

Wow, I stand corrected, thanks. One point of clarification: do consumer component video inputs (e.g. on the 542i) somehow get both analog and digital, or are they exclusively analog that can sync at 720p or 1080i or whatever if that's what the source sends?

Component is always analog, just like VGA, S-Video and Composite. DVI and HDMI are the digital connections.

The Olevia actually has some limitations regarding how it can mix and match analog/digital connections for PIP/POP, so for some people there might be some specific reasons to use one input over another.
post #1335 of 1469
OK I fired up the HDMI cable on my 242t from my Scientific Atlanta box via Time Warner Cable. At first there was no sound and then I figured out that you have to go into settings on the TW remote and then go to MORE settings and find audio output and then go to HDMI etc. (Just incase anybody out there might be doing the same thing) Believe it or not I did see a slight difference. The picture seemed starker if that makes sense. There is one small problem with the HDMI connection. When I'm channel surfing there seems to be a delay for the TV to recognize the signal. It goes to blue screen and says "No Signal" for about 1 second and then it's OK. I don't know if this is a cable box or a cable problem. I did buy that really inexpensive HDMI cable but everybody tells me the cost of the cable should not matter. So I might go back to the Component hook up if I can't find the problem. Maybe somebody reading this thread can help.
post #1336 of 1469
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zappcatt View Post

Component is always analog, just like VGA, S-Video and Composite. DVI and HDMI are the digital connections.


Actually, that's not entirely true either. There is such a thing as Digitial Component signal. Look at my original wikipedia reference in my previous post:

"For most consumer-level applications, analog component video is used. Digital component video is slowly becoming popular in both computer and home-theatre applications."
post #1337 of 1469
Thread Starter 
Glad to find that this thread is still active . Have enjoyed my 542i and pretty happy with the performance. I get almost 18-19 over the air channels..the HD channels are superb- better than some of the digital DVD's . Have hooked up my TV with Philips HTS 6500 Home Theater systems which has a HDMI output..DVD movies are great . I still need to check the latest firmware. Overall pretty happy with my purchase last year on the BF from Microcenter. I do have the 3 Yr service warranty from Microcenter so i am covered on that front as well !!
I initially thought of moving the speakers on the side but could never find time to do it.
post #1338 of 1469
I've passed one year also. Very happy. Hasn't torn off the wall with the $30 monoprice mount. Spealers have been on the sides for quite some time also. The $60 Harmony works great, I am actually glad the remote codes were such a hassle as it moved me to getting the harmony one month after purchase and that has made for controlling our complex set up a breeze. Installed the software update about two months ago with the discreet codes now working great.
post #1339 of 1469
My 542i is celebrating it's first birthday also. I can't say enough good things about it.
I am using Verizon FIOS and have one complaint that I'm pretty sure has been brought up before. WHAT THE HECK IS THE CODE FOR THE REMOTE???

Can anybody please help me?
Thanks.
Roly
post #1340 of 1469
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roly View Post

My 542i is celebrating it's first birthday also. I can't say enough good things about it.
I am using Verizon FIOS and have one complaint that I'm pretty sure has been brought up before. WHAT THE HECK IS THE CODE FOR THE REMOTE???

Can anybody please help me?
Thanks.
Roly

I first bought my 542i Nov. of last year and, since Aug. of this year, switched to Verizon Fios only days after it became available in my area. I switched because I got a great deal that offered more premium movie channels and, most importantly, they are the only cable carriers that offer the NFL Network-all for about the same price I was paying TWC.

Contrary to some beliefs, it's not the manufacturers of the lcd's that are suppose to supply the code for the remote, it's the cable companies. I called Verizon and they have yet to come up with one.

I guess you'll have to be like me and be at the mercy of Verizon.

On another topic, I haven't read all 40+ pages on this thread so I'm not sure if this particular subject has been brought to the board....

Since I first bought my 542i, I have had 2 major problems. Both had to do with the mainboard. The first happened around July (I'd have to check my records for the exact date). I noticed that when I went into my Menu, all the text related to it were a bunch of numbers and symbols-not letters. I called support and talked to a tech there. While I was on the phone with him, I e-mailed him a photo that I took(sorry, I've since deleted it) and he immediately told me that it was the mainboard and set up a tech in my area to come change it out. He was here in just a few days. I wasn't too worried about when he would arrived because I was still able to view the tv. He changed the mainboard and it worked fine.

The second problem occurred less than a month ago. Actually, one day after the manufacturer warranty ran out. As I earlier said, this problem was also with the mainboard. I called support and after I told them what the problem was, they decided to just replace the entire television which I thought was nice of them because technically, by law, they didn't have to abide by their warranty since it had ran out the day before. I saved the photo showing the problem but I see that I won't be able to provide it because I've yet to submit the minimum of 3 posts. This is my first.

Anyway, they sent me a brand new, upgraded, 542i. By upgraded I mean that this lcd is 542-B12 instead of 542-B11. Also, the frame looks exactly like the 242t. It has 2 HDMI inputs instead of the usual 1 that was on my original 542i. (Thanks, Olevia) But it has one less component input compared to the one they switched. I'm fine with that since I have a Sony progressive scan dvd player that has an HDMI input that I had a component cable attached to. When I wanted to use the Sony, I would switch the HDMI cable back and forth even though I know there's not much difference. Until someone shows me that a component cable is equal to an HDMI cable, there's no way I'll believe that they are one in the same.

I hope that helps, Roly.

OK, I've rambled on enough except I'd like to mention one other thing. I've read on here that some people, when they get/got their new lcd, think they need to do a firmware upgrade. That isn't the case. Firmware upgrades are only necessary if you are experiencing an issue with your set or you need it for something like Harmony.
post #1341 of 1469
Quote:
Originally Posted by mml265 View Post

What is the difference between 6500 and 9300 color temperature?

mml265,

In addition to the 542i, I also have a Vizio GV42 L. Instead of the choices of the 542i that you mentioned, on my Vizio, I'm given the choice of Normal, Cool, Warm, and Custom as the color temperature. I can tweak those settings by going into the Custom settings and set them to my preference. If you're into getting the settings perfect on your 542i, you should try each (6500_User and 9300_User) and tweak it to see which one looks the best for you depending on the lighting at any given time of the day(if your lighting changes, which I think it would) of the room in which your 542i is. But who knows, you might like the Native setting. I read somewhere that Olevia says that the 6500 setting is optimal. But that is debatable considering the vast array of peoples preferences. Myself, I prefer the 9300 setting tweaked using the brightness and contrast control. And if I'm in the mood, I'll play around with 'Idea' setting and tweak "Black Level Extender", "Contrast Enhance", and/or the "White Peak Limiter".

There are so many tweaks available that you can spend all your time playing around trying to make the picture perfect; or you can just set the picture to look exceptional. It all depends on what you're willing to spend your time on.
post #1342 of 1469
hello, im from mexico, i recently bought this olevia lcd 542i, at the begining all was ok, but suddenly when de tv is "cold" (when it was off like 5 or 6 hours), when I turn it on, the Olevia logo shows about a second and then it dissapears, and about 10 seconds later it starts to play sound of the tv tunner but no video signal.

After that, I turn off the tv and turn back on and it works normal, it shows the Olevia logo for about 8-10 seconds and the video and audio signal starts normally.

What do you think? is it damaged??


Thank you very much.
post #1343 of 1469
Quote:
Originally Posted by xsys View Post

I have worked enough with the RS232 protocols for the 542i to conclude that only the discrete input select seems to work (sorry, no power). Here is the format (in hex):

(example: Input 1)

50 4B H*,8
50 00 H*

I use this format with my own controller and protocol, so to translate this to something like Crestron SIMPL it would look like this:

\\x50 \\x4B
<8 msec delay>
\\x50 \\x00

Where '00' (the last byte) is the input, and you would add one for each input. The most important thing I can tell you is that the delay between string one and two is critical. You need at least an 8 msec delay. The default baud rate is also 115200k.

The second most important thing is that the Olevia embedded program is flawed...it does not clear the buffer if the string is not recognized. So, if the incoming string is incorrect (or incomplete due to collision or propagation) you have appended strings that make no sense, and you must pull the AC on the unit to reset. This is not good during testing, or in a semi-permanent installation where the AC may be hard to get to (and the customer will be tremendously inconvenienced!).

I wish they would fix this in lieu of their "Future-proof" guarantee.

By the way, I do not have discrete power control so I am using a current sensor and the logic inputs on my controller in conjunction with the IR power toggle.

In conclusion, I believe the RS232 discrete input select is a bit faster (and more reliable) than the IR commands, but not by much. It would make a lot more sense to use RS232 if you had discrete power, channels, and status (i.e. feedback).

JR

I was just geting ready to try to get my home automation system to control my 237 via serial when the tv died. As soon as i get it repaired, ill try again. the day after i ran the wire for it through my attic is when the tv went kaput. what functions have you had success with using rs232? have you found a power code?
post #1344 of 1469
Quote:
Originally Posted by socorob View Post

I was just geting ready to try to get my home automation system to control my 237 via serial when the tv died. As soon as i get it repaired, ill try again. the day after i ran the wire for it through my attic is when the tv went kaput. what functions have you had success with using rs232? have you found a power code?

All RS-232 documentation for these sets can be found here:
http://www.olevia.com/rs232/rs232.aspx
post #1345 of 1469
Quote:
Originally Posted by badself View Post

All these sets are designated 542-b11 on the box, just an arbitrary manufacturer designation. In this respect, your set is no different than anybody else's.

Not anymore. Since your post, Olevia has upgraded their 542i. I received a replacement for my defective one recently and it is now a 542-B12.
post #1346 of 1469
Roly,

Here is the photo of my older 542-B11 showing it's defective mainboard:
LL
post #1347 of 1469
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonychris View Post

All RS-232 documentation for these sets can be found here:
http://www.olevia.com/rs232/rs232.aspx

yeah the funny thing about that is i have the 237 which plainly says on side of the box rs232 control port or something like that, id have to go out in the garage to see exactly, BUT they dont have the 237 listed on there. Thats quality baby!!
post #1348 of 1469
Thanks Toperz.
I have called Verizon and tried to raise some hell, but all I get is "sorry we don't have one yet". I also checed with Philips, as this their RC-144 remote, but they don't have squat either. Rally ticks me off!

That's a very interesting image on your screen, I guess I must have been quite annoying to see that.
When there are dark (black) borders around smaller aspect images, I see globs that look like clouds on the bottom and also on the sides. At first I didn't care, but maybe I can get a new B12 model too if I complain about these artifacts. Sometimes I see them through the image I'm watching too.

Hell why not, I'm gonna give Ölevia a call, what do I have to lose.

If I ever get a response concerning the remote code I'll post it here.

Roly
post #1349 of 1469
I just got the family an Olevia 542 B-12 for Christmas.
I have a strange problem however. I connected my DVD recorder (up-converter) HDMI to the Olevia HDMI jack, and the two units won't sync. I set the HDMI on the DVD to 1080i and I tried 720p and also 480p, to no avail. I tried both HDMI imputs. The display on the front of the recorder flashes 1080i for half a second, and at the same time, for half a second, the display on the TV flashes 1080i and then it goes all blue. This happens automatically every 20 seconds. I have a projector that works fine on HDMI (through an adapter to DVI) from the same DVD unit, and I tried my OTA HD tuner with the TV HDMI input on the TV, and it also worked fine. What am I missing? The DVD unit is a Philips DVDR3505/37
post #1350 of 1469
Quote:
Originally Posted by n7okn View Post

I just got the family an Olevia 542 B-12 for Christmas.
I have a strange problem however. I connected my DVD recorder (up-converter) HDMI to the Olevia HDMI jack, and the two units won't sync. I set the HDMI on the DVD to 1080i and I tried 720p and also 480p, to no avail. I tried both HDMI imputs. The display on the front of the recorder flashes 1080i for half a second, and at the same time, for half a second, the display on the TV flashes 1080i and then it goes all blue. This happens automatically every 20 seconds. I have a projector that works fine on HDMI (through an adapter to DVI) from the same DVD unit, and I tried my OTA HD tuner with the TV HDMI input on the TV, and it also worked fine. What am I missing? The DVD unit is a Philips DVDR3505/37

I have the Philips DVP 5960 Dvd Player hooked up throught HDMI to my 542i. (only 1 HDMI Input, owned over a year)

I would try a different HDMI Cable to rule that out. How long is the HDMI Run?

Is the DVP Player brand new? Since you are ok with the HDMI ports on the TV with other devices, it kind of leads back to the player or the cable.

It does sound like a handshake issue. What brand and length is the HDMI cable?

Now one other minor thing to try.

Plug the DVD Player into a different power outlet, and then hook up to TV, and see if it is a power problem. IE: Too many things plugged in at once thingy.

Try those and report back.
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