Official Olevia 537H, 437V & 237V Thread - Page 105

1: I don't know. Perhaps a full reset to defaults through the menu will wipe it.

2: It's probably set to "showroom" mode, instead of HOME mode. Go into the menu's, and change it to HOME mode.

Thanks Primestar31,
Unfortunately, the tv is set in home and not showroom. I have tried resetting to the factory defaults and that does not help with problem 1. Do you or anybody else have any other ideas? Thanks

Well, if it's set to home mode, and the controls on the front work, it seems the remote has a problem. Open it up, and clean the circuit board contacts with an alcohol swab. I've done this, and it fixed issues with the volume control. Or, you can buy a 3rd party remote. I have a Radio Shack 15-133 Gamer universal learning remote that I use with my 537H. I paid .99 cents for it brand new, at Radio Shack 2 months ago.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=3031611

I just looked in my manual. The DEFAULT password is: 314159

Primestar31,

Thank you so much!! The code worked! I haven't tried working on the remote yet, but that will be my next step. I might try out that Radio Shack remote too. Thanks again!

I have an LCD Olevia 537H-B12 and the picture stopped coming up. The sound works, the backlight is on, but there is no picture - not even the Olevia splash screen. Has anyone had any similar problems or have any insights on what the problem might be or how to fix it?

Did you ever find a solution to this problem? I have had this same TV for years, and have always just lived with the popping sounds. I would love to get them eliminated, however, if there is a real fix... Thanks, Dave

Unless you've isolated it to coming from the internal speakers, I wouldn't worry about it. Likely just the casing/framing of the panel expanding/contracting when heating up after being turned on and then cooling back down again when turned off. I experienced it fairly frequently too, back when I still owned one (a 237T, specifically). Kind of annoying, but probably just the nature of the beast when dealing with a budget model. They had to cut corners somewhere and structural design & integrity was likely one such place...

Anyway, I chimed in because I doubt the guy you quoted will reply - gone for well over 4 years.

For the Popping noises, go into the Audio settings in the menu, then Bass, and put it BELOW 50%. That will eliminate the popping noises. I've owned my 537H for over 4 years, and haven't heard any popping since I did that several weeks after originally buying it.

I have an Olevia 537H-B12 and I'm looking for the latest firmware and installation utilities. If anyone can provide a valid download link or email me a copy, I would greatly appreciate it.

Also I just fixed my set. When I powered it on, the blue led would just flash and I got no picture. I read somewhere that a common problem with these sets is that the inverter board goes bad. I found a new one on ebay for $30 and replaced the old one and now it is good as new. I'ts pretty much plug and play once you get the stand and back cover off. The old board did not have any obvious signs of distress and the electrolytic capacitors all still looked good. I didn't test them so I can't be sure that they were good.

This board had a lot of surface mount components so it could have been one of them but if it is, you're better off replacing the whole board. Also this board as a bunch of high voltage transformers to run the backlights. I'm not sure how one would test these.

If anybody needs it, I found the Olevia 537H-B11 full manual on Scribd.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/51192328/O...sh-User-Manual

This is a huge thread so you will have to forgive me if it has already been answered.

I have a 537-B11, with one HDMI port. I have the blue light issue, in that, I cannot get the set to power on. I have checked the fuse on the PSU and cannot see any visible damage. I have ordered a PSU since alot of other posts suggested it is a power problem. I have recently come across this thread. I have tried to find the last firmware file and the installer with usb drivers, but I cannot locate them.

Anybody willing to help me out?

TIA

I have an XP machine. Looks like I cannot get the driver to install from the .inf file. Still says unrecognized. Does anyone have the exe?

I love jello....


(Qualifying third post)

I am using the files above...

Well, I got it to work. The question now is this. Did the firmware get nicked up due to a weak power board. i.e. failing caps? Or is it a power surge/dirty power that nicked up the firmware. This TV was given to me so I don't really know the circumstances around the original failure.

Anyone still kicking out there?

Mine was zapped exactly the same way by a power spike. I reflashed it, and it's been running fine since ( Feb. 2009) Of course, I've had it on a 1500 watt UPS since that day, so no spikes can get to it now.

That means I don't think it could have been failing caps in this case, as they certainly would have gone completely bad in the 2 years it's been since I reflashed it.

Can't thank you enough, Primestar31. Lowering the bass level did the trick! So far not a single popping noise. Thanks again!!

I had a failure with trying to reflash my software.

i am running a windows 7 computer (but i could also run an XP or a vista if i have to)

i have the blue light issue right now.

will the previous posted files work still?

can anyone provide any help?

Use an XP pc, and make sure you set the Olevia software to the right com port on your pc. I KNOW it works in XP. Also, make sure you are using the correct firmware for your tv. Do NOT use Bll software for a B12 model.

So I originally I tried to use Windows 7 and I believe the wrong firmware.

This was a completely bad idea, since now I can't even turn the tv on.

I tried to rerun the same firmware using an xp pc, but that didn't work (obviously) and the tv is still with a blue light and won't turn on.

I wanted to open up the tv and check the hardware itself, but after removing the 10 screws that line the back of the tv peripherally, there is a snag somewhere and i can't separate the back and the front (i did notice 6-8 additional screws that connect the front part of the tv to the metal support inside the tv, but I haven't unscrewed those yet). I'd like to see if i can change the capacitors (if they are blown) or just try to change the power board altogether.

any suggestions on getting the darn thing opened up?

First, which model TV do you have exactly?. It might have nothing to do with the power board at all. What was the problem or reason for you to try reflashing it? Was something wrong, did it have the permanent "blue light" before your reflash? What was it?

Second, I had the permanent blue light after a power on/off/on/off for 45 minutes power outage. I reflashed mine, and it fixed it completely. It was NOT a hardware problem. IF you used the wrong firmware, you MIGHT have completely bricked your tv set. However, mine was bricked due to an power wave outage, and so was kousikb's, who I linked above with slight edits to simplify his post on how he reflashed. I followed his pattern, and it also worked for me.

IF the reason you had a problem was due to the permanent "blue light", I suggest you put it all back together, find the proper firmware, and reflash it with a older WinXP pc using the proper steps until it "takes". Disconnect that pc from any web access while you are doing it. Also disable any anti-virus, or any TSR programs that are running in memory. IF you can't get it to take a new flash, you might be SOL completely. It's basically a computer masquerading as a tv set. Firmware should NEVER be reflashed unless you absolutely must. As you see, it can be a dangerous endeavor.

Please note: IF you have the 537H-b12 model (2 HDMI ports, I have the b11 model, which is slightly older, and only has 1 HDMI port) you might be screwed, because I don't think anybody ever got a new firmware for that model before Olevia went belly-up. I can't remember for sure as it's been a while. IF they did, it will be posted in this very long thread. IF you find a post where the person says they have the particular firmware you need, I suggest you PM them directly. I don't think too many people are rechecking this thread anymore.

Good luck, I'll try checking back several times over the next couple of days, and see how it goes for you.

Primestar -

thanks for taking out the time and replying. i really appreciate your help.

i have a b12 version.

i opened the tv up, finally, and checked everything. it seems to be alright (no busted caps or anything).

i might change the main board that might have an old firmware on it and then just roll with that for some time.

i am actually going to just buy a new tv and then fix this old tv later.

Ok, that sounds like a good plan for now. I do see parts for sale now and again on Ebay, so that's one way you could get some.

yeah i just bought a Sony KDL-32EX520 32" 1080p 60hz. pretty happy with it right now.

if anyone wants to buy a power supply board, let me know!

Unit works fine with Cable box hooked up. When I hook the cable line directly to the TV, it downloads the channels, but when I try to change channels, I get a blue screen with "NO SIGNAL".
I believe its a tuning problem but have been unable to get it working. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hello,

I have had this tv for a couple of years now and have had no problem with it. However, yesterday we went to turn the tv on and it does not respond. Any ideas as to what I can check?

Thanks.

Johnpe

I have black borders all over my tv, sometimes the just cover the bottom half and others they cover all 4 sides. I have verizon Vios and they keep telling me it's my TV but i've tried all the button on the remote with no luck, some of the buttons won't do anything even though they light up. Could someone tell me what to do?

Does the blue power indicator light still function?

The set has a master power switch on the back-- if it's on and the unit is plugged in the blue light should remain lit until you turn the set ON. If you turn the set on and the blue light goes out but you still see no picture it's possible you have a blown ballast-- this happened on my first set and was apparently a common issue with this model. Also, main board could be another culprit. Unfortunately, if it is either of these you might be SOL. I managed to get mine repaired but I'm sure it was the last game in town with olevia parts... And that was over a year ago!

This is normal. Olevia outfitted this set with something called "directors image" which is essentially to say that they keep the image in a state of zero overscan (zoomed out). While this is a feature that cinemaphiles love as it makes sure none of the picture is cropped-- watching anything else results in black border or, worse, static nonsense around the edges of the screen.