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Building electric roll down screen, here's some parts - Page 3

post #61 of 252
I stumbled on a Chinese tubular motor company called Safy while searching for info Somfy motors.

http://www.safymotor.com/products2-e.htm

Their American distributor is:
http://safyusa.com/

Don't know anything else about them.

Steve
post #62 of 252
Steve-
The "weave" is because of the 10% transparency in the material - hence it is AT.

Interesting link on the motor. I'm using my own design with a DC gearmotor pulley and belt system. Presets allow it to stop at 1.77 or 2.35 positions.

I don't notice the moire, but I couldn't fit the material to the roller any other way. I use a 2 inch aluminum schedule 40 pipe.

I have a small amount of curling, but I intend to mask that off.

Don
post #63 of 252
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Kinkead View Post

How will you attach the 1" aluminum bar to the bottom of the screen? One solution is to fold over 1 or 2 inches of screen fabric and tape it together to form a sling that the aluminum rod can slide into. An advantage to using a sling is: (1) you can easily increase the size of the bar if you need more weight and (2) there is less chance of the fabric being stretched which might happen if taped directly to the aluminum rod.

I'm also wondering about the seams on left and right sides of the screen. Since the SmX fabric is woven, will it become frayed over time? Or, are the edges factory sealed so individual strands will not come loose?

Yes, I plan to use the tape to form a sling into which I can slide the bar. The bar is 11 pounds or so and that should be plenty heavy.
post #64 of 252
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Kinkead View Post

I bought my Somfy motor (LT50 550R2 RTS CMO) on Ebay for $90 from a liquidation store. Now I need to find a Somfy radio transmitter to control it.

There is a guy selling a similar motor on Ebay but it is not wireless.
Search for "SOMFY BED MOTOR 540R2"

The parts I am using should be a direct fit with a Somfy motor. Using a Somfy motor would be even better.
post #65 of 252
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by camarillo_cinema View Post

Steve-
The "weave" is because of the 10% transparency in the material - hence it is AT.

Interesting link on the motor. I'm using my own design with a DC gearmotor pulley and belt system. Presets allow it to stop at 1.77 or 2.35 positions.

I don't notice the moire, but I couldn't fit the material to the roller any other way. I use a 2 inch aluminum schedule 40 pipe.

I have a small amount of curling, but I intend to mask that off.

Don

I believe you are the site I referenced for masking solutions. Do you have any plans to sell your electric screen? Also do you have any pictures?
post #66 of 252
Bulldogger-

Yes, I may plan to offer a kit for an electric screen. Rollers tend to be long and heavy, so that would probably be best procurred locally from your favorite metal supply shop. I like the way mine turned out, and has an integrated masking roller.

It is IR controlled, and has presets. I did build a box that interfaces with the trigger out on my PJ, so that when the PJ powers up, it automatically send an IR command to drop the screen. When the PJ powers down (after the fan stops), a IR command is sent to retract the screen.

At this point, I do not know what pricepoint the market will bear. Keep in mind this is a partial DIY, which is what this section is all about.

I need to update the website first!

Best-
Don
post #67 of 252
Thread Starter 
Cool. I would like to see how you did the masking. The intention of my starting this thread was to solicite help and to help ohters with my experiences. There are quite a few guys watching this thread. My screen should be completed soon. I am trying to decide on the screen material. What about waves? Do you have any waves?
post #68 of 252
Bulldogger-

Yes, I do have waves, but I think that is because of the load bar not being heavy enough. Also, as I explained in a previous post, the load bar is a "sandwhich" made up of two MDF pieces, one on each side of the material. I thought this would be the easiest way to add a load bar.

If you for some reason do not make sure this is screwed together correctly (ie material being skewed), then you will have waves in the material.

I will be taking a picture shortly of my setup. The masking roller sits just below the screen roller. Since we're not talking about alot of material to roll up here, this roller is 1.25 inches in diameter.

I'm setting up a curtain system so that when the screen drops, it automatically closes the curtains (I have windows behind the screen).

BTW, I thought at first the screen size was gonna be waaay too big. The SmX material made my Panny come alive! Seating distance is about 15 feet. No problems with SDE. The experience is awesome. Best of all, it rolls up out of the way when done watching.

I have since canceled my Match.com membership and signed up for Blockbuster.

Don
post #69 of 252
Thread Starter 
Ahh, see and you wanted to make fun of my 50.00 metal bar. 50.00 is too much but I wanted to stick with metal to insure that it was heavy enough . Sandman's stuff is a great screen material. My objective here was to find readily available parts so that anyone could be able to assemble a screen, namely me, and not have to wait for any specific solutions to be developed. I should be finished very soon. Waiting for the double sided tape samples and then I have to decided on which material to use. I would like to have my screen finished before the JVC RS1 ships. OH, match.com . I met this beautiful girl from China, a Radio Disk Jockey, who came over from China and spent 2 weeks with me. 4 foot 10, 99 pounds with 34DD, WOW. Now I am married but not from the internet.
post #70 of 252
Bulldogger,
When you get a chance can you list the p/n's for your axil and L-shaped mounting brackets?
Did you purchase them direct from Somfy?

My Somfy motor arrived today and I'm trying to figure out the mounting hardware I'll need. The catalog has so many options I'm having a hard time figuring out how to proceed. May be time to give Somfy tech support a call.

Steve
post #71 of 252
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bulldogger View Post

I am just waiting for the drives from Somfy now to go inside the pipe. I can take the smaller pipe sample that I purchased and use it to make the inside diameter of the larger pipe match my motor. This would be simple to do but more expensive for anyone else but not for me since I already have the pipe.

Schedule 40 PVC is a cheaper solution to matching the motor to the large diameter pipe. All Schedule 40 pipe has the same dimensions regardless of material... aluminum, PVC, etc. I'm going to Home Depot today to see what diameter PVC pipe they have available.

Sch 40 PVC Dimensions: http://www.harvel.com/tech-specs-pvc-pipe-40.asp

A 36" length of 2" diameter sch40 aluminum pipe would cost me $30 at the local metal supply company. Ouch!

Steve
post #72 of 252
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bulldogger View Post

Challenge would be then finding an end cap for the other end. I am considering trying to use the pipe sample to make a mold that could produce an end cap. Most likely I will just wait for the Somfy parts. They are supposed to fit the pipe size I have.

Bulldogger,
Do you still need an end cap? Or, are you now using the axial assembly shown in your photos?
post #73 of 252
I compared various size aluminum tubes at the local metal supply store. I layed each pipe across 2 saw horses and the applied about 5 pounds of pressure to the center of the pipe to see how much it would deflect. Since the weight of the screen fabric will be distributed across the length of the pipe, the deflection will probably me much less than what I caused by pressing with my hand.

The store had tubes of all sizes and with your choice of wall thickness... 1/4" or 1/8".
I saw a lot of defection when with all the tubes having 1/8" wall thickness. I tried 2", 2.5", and 3".

Next, I compared the same diameter tubes having 1/4" walls. This is thicker than schedule 40 pipe for all diameters less than 5". So this is pretty strong stuff. I still saw some deflection in the 2.5" tube, but the 3" tube was pretty stiff. Again, I was probably pushing a little too hard, so probably the 2.5 would work just fine.

I also found a 4" diameter tube with 1/8" thick walls. Man, this stuff was really stiff. I could cause no deflection when applying pressure with my hand.
This tube cost the same as the 3" pipe with a 1/4" wall. And I would guess they both weigh about the same. I'd really like to use this 4" tube for my screen, but I may have problems matching an axial and a motor to this jumbo tube.

Cost for a 12 ft length of 4" diameter tube was $110.

Steve
post #74 of 252
Speaking of on-line dating... I've been exchanging letters with 3 lovely ladies from China for a few weeks now and will be traveling to China to see each of them at the end of the month. I'm 50 and they are between 38 and 41. I've turned down many offers from very pretty 30 year olds. The Chinese ladies are mostly college educated and smart, but still very family oriented.

http://www.chnlove.com
http://www.chineselovelinks.com
http://www.blossoms.com

Now back to our regularly scheduled screen thread.
post #75 of 252
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Kinkead View Post

Schedule 40 PVC is a cheaper solution to matching the motor to the large diameter pipe. All Schedule 40 pipe has the same dimensions regardless of material... aluminum, PVC, etc. I'm going to Home Depot today to see what diameter PVC pipe they have available.

Sch 40 PVC Dimensions: http://www.harvel.com/tech-specs-pvc-pipe-40.asp

A 36" length of 2" diameter sch40 aluminum pipe would cost me $30 at the local metal supply company. Ouch!

Steve

Plastic is going to flex, Do not use plastic. Your screen may have terrible waves.
post #76 of 252
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Kinkead View Post

Speaking of on-line dating... I've been exchanging letters with 3 lovely ladies from China for a few weeks now and will be traveling to China to see each of them at the end of the month. I'm 50 and they are between 38 and 41. I've turned down many offers from very pretty 30 year olds. The Chinese ladies are mostly college educated and smart, but still very family oriented.

http://www.chnlove.com
http://www.chineselovelinks.com
http://www.blossoms.com

Now back to our regularly scheduled screen thread.

Good man! Good luck!
post #77 of 252
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bulldogger View Post

Plastic is going to flex, Do not use plastic. Your screen may have terrible waves.

The PVC would only be used as a spacer between the 1.5"diameter motor and the 3" or 3.5" diameter aluminum pipe.

I talked to Somfy tech support today and they have crown and drive wheels for my motor that will fit a 2.5" diameter pipe. But, I'll probably use a 3" sch40 aluminum pipe for my screen. So, a 3' length of 2.5" PVC pipe should work as spacer between the motor and aluminum pipe.

These tubular motors are new to me, so if I'm way off base please let me know.

Steve
post #78 of 252
Bulldogger,
What retailer did you buy your Somfy brackets and axial from?

Steve
post #79 of 252
Thread Starter 
oQUOTE=Steve Kinkead]Bulldogger,
When you get a chance can you list the p/n's for your axil and L-shaped mounting brackets?
Did you purchase them direct from Somfy?

My Somfy motor arrived today and I'm trying to figure out the mounting hardware I'll need. The catalog has so many options I'm having a hard time figuring out how to proceed. May be time to give Somfy tech support a call.

Steve[/quote]
Ok the brackets are part numbers 6070504 and 6070506. One bracket comes with a universal motor mount, the other is just the plan bracket. The axle is called an idler end cap and the part number for that is 6090256. You have to pick the size drive based upon your pipe size inside diameter. The size pipe I used was 3.5 shecdule 40 which is about 3.5 inside diameter. I used two 89 mm drives to go on the Idler end cap or what I am calling the axle. The part numbers for those are 6061320. Now to attach the idler end cap, or axle as I am calling it to the bracket, you will need a part called the idler end cap holder. That part is 6080257. There is a bracket that comes with the holder already built it. It is not adjustable so I chose to buy the parts separately. If you call Somfy and tell them what you are trying to do, they can tell you exactly what parts to use. I bought my parts from a Somfy dealer. For the moter end, the Somfy parts would not work. I have to use the parts that came with the motor. Also I have to drill the holes in the motor mount that came with my motor to match up to the holes on the Somfy bracket. Send me a pm, if you are still confused and we can talk by phone.
post #80 of 252
Thread Starter 
If you go to the link for the Somfy catalog that I posted earlier in the thread, look at the catalog. Go to the back page pages and there is an index of where to find the parts in the catalog so you can see what they look like.
post #81 of 252
Thanks, this really helps. You should be on Monster Garage.

The Somfy tech gave me the parts for my LT50 RTS CMO motor mount (6070504 and 6250702). Then, all I need are the 3.5" drive and crown for the LT50 motor (6061359).

So, is there any need for your 2.5" and 3" sch40 pipe samples? Are you using those because your motor drive and crown are too small for your 3.5" pipe?

Steve
post #82 of 252
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Kinkead View Post

So, is there any need for your 2.5" and 3" sch40 pipe samples? Are you using those because your motor drive and crown are too small for your 3.5" pipe?

Steve

The 89mm drives translate to about 3.5 inches which is the ABOUT the inside diameter or a 3.5 sch40 pipe. Still a little bit of play. I am using the 3.5 ,16 gauge, aluminum TUBING as a spacer. The difference between pipe and tubing is that tubing is measured by the outside diameter and pipe is measured from the inside diameter. A 3.5 sch40 pipe is actually 4 inches outside diameter but he 3.5 inside matches the 3.5 aluminum tubing perfectly. Using the tubing makes the drives fit almost perfectly. I wanted as tight a fit as possible so that the pipe does not wobble when it spins. I am attaching some pics. The first pic is of the drives on the "idler end cap" or axle as I am calling it inside the 16 gauge 3.5 aluminum tubing. The second is all that placed inside my 3.5 Sch40 pipe. The fit is pretty precise.
LL
LL
post #83 of 252
Thread Starter 
Here's another pic of the end opposite the motor, with the idler installed inside my pipe. I had to use a 3/16 drill bit to make pilot holes. Only drill through the pipe and piece of tubing used as spacer. The screws I chose are #10, one inch self drilling screws. I chose to buy stainless steel screws because I knew that they would be harder than the zinc screws and I did not want the screws to have trouble penetrating the hard material that the drives are made of. Picked up the screws from Lowes. Also you will need a nut driver 5/16 to screw the screws through the pipe and tubing and into the drive. I only screwed the outside drive according to the instructions included with the idler end cap or axle. The inside drive had a little play and is not screw in. I have some extra pipe that I am going to experiment with. Attaching the motor is slightly more complicated. Whereas the idler end can be screwed with the machine screws, the end of the motor where the drive will attach to the pipe is going to be under the screen material when the fabric is rolled onto the pipe. This means that I am going to have to drill a larger hole at the part of the pipe where the motor drive attaches and use a screw with a tapered head so that the screw can mount with the head below the plane of the pipe surface. I attached a pic of the idler end, opposite motor end parts attached to the pipe.
LL
LL
post #84 of 252
Bulldogger,

Could you please post parts list with prices and sources?

Thanks
post #85 of 252
Thread Starter 
Give me another day or so Nilk29 and I'll summarize. All the parts I used are in the thread though, you have to dig it out. I will though provide a summary. You can get the parts from any Somfy dealer. They can recommend one in your area. I am hesitant to bombard my source with guys looking to mount parts to all different size pipes. I need to clear that with him first. He's just a small dealer and selling 12.00 parts to a ton of confused guys may be to much for him to deal with and not worth his time. If I were in business, it would not be worth my time.Let Somfy handle that by recommending dealers. Better to use a lot of different Somfy dealers I believe. The last thing I have to do is mount the motor. I am going to do that and post the drill bit size I used and size screws. That should really be a wrap as far as parts go. The only thing left to do will be to build a valance to attach the whole thing to and attach the motor control. Oh and I am waiting for those double sided tape samples. I might as well wrap this up and will try to by the end of the week. Then I have to decide on a screen material. It is almost certainly going to be Sandman's stuff.
post #86 of 252
Bulldogger,

I appreciate your time and efforts taken for this project. By no means, I wanted you to share/post the dealerships and personal contacts. I just wanted to get a general idea about part manufacturer like Somfy, and etc. and pricing of them.

Thanks
post #87 of 252
Thread Starter 
I e-mailed my guy and will see what he says. He may be glad to sell the parts. I just wanted to ask him first. The parts are inexpensive but a bit confusing which is why I sent him an e-mail to see what he says. Also do not want to break any rules. 6080257 - Qty: 1 Cost: $11
6090256 - Qty: 1 Cost: $54
6061320 - Qty: 2 Cost: $17.92 ea. = $35.84
6070504 - Qty: 1 Cost: $9.92
6070506 - Qty: 1 Cost: $9.65

Here are the parts and prices I used. the most expensive part the $54 one was the idler end cap or axle that the two drives, 6061320, go on. The 6070504 and 6070506 are those brackets that you see in my picture. One comes with a universal motor mount that turns out will work with my motor. That means I do not have to do any drilling to try to make something work. The crown I used is the one that came with the motor. You would also need a crown in addition to these parts. I know you are not rushing me It is me, rushing me. I am ready to try to wrap this up. I bought wood to make a valence to attach to the ceiling which I then am going to mount the brackets to and then the roller to the brackets. That's my bit of work for today. Hey feel free to ask any questions. Many guys have sent me suggestions and are helping out with this. I think that a lot of us would like a DIY electric screen to put an acoustically transparent material on. Make any suggestions if you think I could do something a better way. This is of course my first attempt and I am taking it one step at time.
post #88 of 252
Unlike Bulldogger, I'm using a Somfy motor. It is the LT50, 550R2 RTS CMO (it has a RF controller). I'm using the same idler and brackets as Bulldogger, but my motor drive wheel and crown are different. Here is my Somfy parts list for a LT50 motor with a 3.5" sch40 pipe:

Idler components:
6070506 Angle plate
6090256 Idler end cap (axil)
6061320 89mm drives for idler end cap (x2)
6080257 Idler end cap holder

Motor components:
6070504 Angle plate w/ universal motor bracket
6250702 CMO motor bracket
6061359 3.5 round LT50 crown and drive set

Somfy gave me a retailer in San Diego who will order the parts for me. He estimates 2 to 3 weeks delivery. PM me if you are interested in the retailer's name.
post #89 of 252
Thread Starter 
I can sell the parts but it is with the understanding that they are all
customs orders and the customer is responsible for specifying the parts. We
do not work with these Somfy items so we have limited knowledge of them. We
can get any Somfy part specified.


Thanks,
Ken Thibault
www.AV-Outlet.com
Home Theater Audio and Video
Disputanta, VA 23842
1-877-271-5398

Sales@av-outlet.com

Here's what my source said.
post #90 of 252
Steve, Bulldogger

Many thanks for your part list and address. It seems that this dealer (av-outlet) is close to me.

I am currently using EastPorters electric screen (106') from first wave. For my next upgrade, I am debating between 3 options,
1. DIY with SMX
2. Supercharge EastPorters screen with SMX
3. fnEasy (Tiddler paint) method. This is last option as I am not good with paint.

Once I see your implementations, I will jump in with my plan.

You might want to give a shot at these LED lights from Ikea. I mounted 2 sets in series on front portion of my EP screen. These can be linked in a series making it a cool light strip like neon.

http://www.ikea.com/webapp/wcs/store...umber=90098177
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