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HD-A2 HDMI > DVI and BTB/WTW issues?

post #1 of 39
12/15/06 at 4:52pm
Thread Starter 
I've read several references to the HD-A2 having problems with black crush, blacker-than-black, and whiter-than-white issues when going over HDMI to DVI. A problem not transmitting the right color space. I've searched this forum for a better understanding of what this means but have come up empty handed - so decided to ask. My A2 is in the mail and I plan to hook it up to a Hitachi 46F500 that has DVI-HDCP.

I'm trying to better understand just what the btb/wtw issue is, how I would recognize it, etc? Does it primarily show up during some of the calibration tests or will it be obvious during normal viewing?

As I understand it, the problem goes away when using analog component video, but then you lose the A2's upscaling ability with SD material.

TIA for any clarification,
leeson
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post #2 of 39
12/15/06 at 7:35pm
may have to calibrate your tv since it is rear projection. I am gettin an A1 soon so I can test it out.
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post #3 of 39
12/16/06 at 4:34am
HD-DVD uses YCbCr color space to transmit the picture and this is passed through HDMI. DVI uses RGB only and when the Toshiba converts YCbCr to RGB it loses BtB.
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post #4 of 39
12/16/06 at 5:38am
I am having the same issue with my hd-a1 and LG DLP. Basically you will loose all detail in the dark areas of the picture. Instead of seeing creases in someone's black coat, the coat with DVI will look just totally black. No matter how much you raise brightness/contrast. You will not get that extra detail in dark scenes.
After calibrating using components and looking at an identical scene you will see a major difference in the detail level during dark scenes. I am forced to use component at this point because of this major bug. I'd rather have shadow detail than have a crisp picture where I can't see all of the intended picture detail at all. I hate it because hdmi looks so sooo much more detailed/cleaner in the parts of the picture that you can see when compared to component.
In this case pic and choose your poison. Toshiba had better get on the ball.
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post #5 of 39
12/16/06 at 7:10am
ejm, are you outputting 1080i or 720p using component (instead of 480p)? It should be every bit as detailed with component, at least with HD-DVDs. I also have a DVI display and plan to use component for HD-DVDs (and my Denon for SD DVDs).
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post #6 of 39
12/16/06 at 7:20am
It's complicated issue, made even more confusing by the fact that there are different implementations of DVI connection.
BTB and WTW issue is related to video level used by source and "expected" by display. In US standard video signal's black level is IRE 16 and white is 235, leaving space (0 - 16, and 235 -254) for BELOW black and ABOVE white information. In properly mastered material there should be NO useful information in those areas, therefore lack of BTB and WTW does NOT necessary mean lower quality. Test patterns use those ranges to aid in finding the settings of display where below black and above white fields are invisible, but fields above black, and below white are just so, therefore establishing proper scale for display.
Colorspace is the way colors are encoded in numerical values in digital format. Unfortunately there is more than one standard... Mixing them up can create unwanted color effects in the image (do the search here for colorspace, there is tread with nice examples; it's not end of the world problem, but it is visible, specially if you have well calibrated system and you know what to look for).
Output devices are capable of adjusting both video level and color space of their output, but they have to know what's needed... And that's where the problem lies...
Theoretically, each digital connection (both HDMI and DVI) contains EDID feature, providing all sorts of info to the connected device, which then should be able to accommodate it's "partner" in delivering optimized signal. In real life of course things not always happen as they should, leading to unwanted results.
From practical purposes, you will have to try and see for yourself - you may be lucky in the sense that DVI connector in your display works effectively as HDMI, therefore you won't have any problems, or you may stumble into color space issue. (BTB/WTW is not that critical, as I explained before).
I specifically left "black/white crush" issue as last one, since it is even more confusing...
The term generally describes situation where display will not show properly subtle shades of very dark and very light areas. It may be consequence of miscalibration (generally of display, sine source components rarely provide those adjustments), or bad design...
First thing to do in resolving this issue is to at least check your display using test patterns (ideal would be calibrated test generator) and find out if your display can be adjusted (does it sound like ISF calibration? Yes, it does - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!). If you know that your display is OK, and you still have the problem, it's next step: calibrating your display to your source... This way, unless either one has "built-in" problem, you will have perfectly calibrated combo...
As specifically A2 goes, there are early reports, that it does NOT respond correctly to requests from displays, therefore often delivering wrong signals... Now, A1 on the other hand, has that ability, I use it with LumagenHDP Video Processor, and at the request from VP, it delivers proper colorspace and video level signal, leading to absolutely stunning image...
I just hope for all of consumers using DVI connections, that Toshiba not only corrects this potential A2's bug, but solves the problem once and for all providing manual software override for those settings...
That's what we really need!

Did I confuse you enough ?
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post #7 of 39
12/16/06 at 7:36am
Quote:
Originally Posted by k.berger View Post

It's complicated issue, made even more confusing by the fact that there are different implementations of DVI connection.
BTB and WTW issue is related to video level used by source and "expected" by display. In US standard video signal's black level is IRE 16 and white is 235, leaving space (0 - 16, and 235 -254) for BELOW black and ABOVE white information. In properly mastered material there should be NO useful information in those areas, therefore lack of BTB and WTW does NOT necessary mean lower quality. Test patterns use those ranges to aid in finding the settings of display where below black and above white fields are invisible, but fields above black, and below white are just so, therefore establishing proper scale for display.
Colorspace is the way colors are encoded in numerical values in digital format. Unfortunately there is more than one standard... Mixing them up can create unwanted color effects in the image (do the search here for colorspace, there is tread with nice examples; it's not end of the world problem, but it is visible, specially if you have well calibrated system and you know what to look for).
Output devices are capable of adjusting both video level and color space of their output, but they have to know what's needed... And that's where the problem lies...
Theoretically, each digital connection (both HDMI and DVI) contains EDID feature, providing all sorts of info to the connected device, which then should be able to accommodate it's "partner" in delivering optimized signal. In real life of course things not always happen as they should, leading to unwanted results.
From practical purposes, you will have to try and see for yourself - you may be lucky in the sense that DVI connector in your display works effectively as HDMI, therefore you won't have any problems, or you may stumble into color space issue. (BTB/WTW is not that critical, as I explained before).
I specifically left "black/white crush" issue as last one, since it is even more confusing...
The term generally describes situation where display will not show properly subtle shades of very dark and very light areas. It may be consequence of miscalibration (generally of display, sine source components rarely provide those adjustments), or bad design...
First thing to do in resolving this issue is to at least check your display using test patterns (ideal would be calibrated test generator) and find out if your display can be adjusted (does it sound like ISF calibration? Yes, it does - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!). If you know that your display is OK, and you still have the problem, it's next step: calibrating your display to your source... This way, unless either one has "built-in" problem, you will have perfectly calibrated combo...
As specifically A2 goes, there are early reports, that it does NOT respond correctly to requests from displays, therefore often delivering wrong signals... Now, A1 on the other hand, has that ability, I use it with LumagenHDP Video Processor, and at the requestfor VP, it delivers proper colorspace and video level signal, leading to absolutely stunning image...
I just hope \\for all of consumers using DVI connections, that Toshiba not only corrects this potential A2's bug, but solves the problem one and for all providing manual software override for those settings...
That's what we really need!

Did I confuse you enough ?

Great post! Thanks!
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post #8 of 39
12/16/06 at 8:06am
I will have to test it out and post back later...
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post #9 of 39
12/16/06 at 9:01am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dlhoppe View Post

Great post! Thanks!

Thanks for good word!

I am afraid it didn't really answer any practical wuestions, but at least it gives you something to think about
By the way:
I have to clarify couple of things regarding "black crush" (probably the most misunderstood concept so far...).
When I said: if you find that your source has "it", and therefore you have to adjust the display, I omitted the real possibility that it will be unfortunately incorrectable problem... See, if you see all deep details as one mass of black, the reason may by incorrect gamma, which sort of compresses all those values so close, you cannot distinguish them - that's correctable, assuming you have ability to adjust gamma curve sufficiently. On the other hand if source simply doesn't transmit the information below certain (low) level, replacing it with uniform black, then of course all that data is lost forever, and NO amount of tweaking is going to bring it back... (this same line of thought applies to "white crush" of course).
Fortunately, that doesn't happen very often with modern equipment of medium to high level, so with proper adjustments you can almost always improve image. VPs help in this regard greatly (like Lumagen for instance, which has built-in patterns and 11 point gamma, brightness, color correction), but those are rather expensive solutions which make sense only for high-end displays/installations.

Kris
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post #10 of 39
12/16/06 at 9:25am
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillP View Post

ejm, are you outputting 1080i or 720p using component (instead of 480p)? It should be every bit as detailed with component, at least with HD-DVDs. I also have a DVI display and plan to use component for HD-DVDs (and my Denon for SD DVDs).

I am outputting 1080i. Not that component isn't detailed, but hdmi has a much cleaner look and I can see the difference. I just cant see anything in the dark areas when using hdmi to DVI. I am using a monoprice HDMI to DVI conversion cable. Just for the heck of it I plan on connecting using an hdmi cable and buying a HDMI to DVI Adapter attached to DVI port of TV instead of using the conversion cable to see if it makes any difference, although in theory it probably won't. I need a fix Asap.
I emailed Toshiba a while ago about my problem but they were not that helpful. Calling them made no difference either. This is what They told me .........
"Dear eric,

Thanks for writing!

I apologize for the inconvenience.

There is no "Black Level Bug" with this unit. We have done extensive research and testing on this theory and have found no issue that causes the problems described on internet forums. There is no firmware upgrade for this unit as it not necessary.

For further assistance, I recommend contacting our Customer Solutions Department at 1-800-319-6684. They are available Mon-Fri, 8AM to 7PM Central time."

I responded by saying I hope they reconsider this, as it is a real problem. I need a fix for this.
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post #11 of 39
12/16/06 at 9:33am
Quote:
Originally Posted by k.berger View Post

It's complicated issue, made even more confusing by the fact that there are different implementations of DVI connection.
BTB and WTW issue is related to video level used by source and "expected" by display. In US standard video signal's black level is IRE 16 and white is 235, leaving space (0 - 16, and 235 -254) for BELOW black and ABOVE white information. In properly mastered material there should be NO useful information in those areas, therefore lack of BTB and WTW does NOT necessary mean lower quality. Test patterns use those ranges to aid in finding the settings of display where below black and above white fields are invisible, but fields above black, and below white are just so, therefore establishing proper scale for display.
Colorspace is the way colors are encoded in numerical values in digital format. Unfortunately there is more than one standard... Mixing them up can create unwanted color effects in the image (do the search here for colorspace, there is tread with nice examples; it's not end of the world problem, but it is visible, specially if you have well calibrated system and you know what to look for).
Output devices are capable of adjusting both video level and color space of their output, but they have to know what's needed... And that's where the problem lies...
Theoretically, each digital connection (both HDMI and DVI) contains EDID feature, providing all sorts of info to the connected device, which then should be able to accommodate it's "partner" in delivering optimized signal. In real life of course things not always happen as they should, leading to unwanted results.
From practical purposes, you will have to try and see for yourself - you may be lucky in the sense that DVI connector in your display works effectively as HDMI, therefore you won't have any problems, or you may stumble into color space issue. (BTB/WTW is not that critical, as I explained before).
I specifically left "black/white crush" issue as last one, since it is even more confusing...
The term generally describes situation where display will not show properly subtle shades of very dark and very light areas. It may be consequence of miscalibration (generally of display, sine source components rarely provide those adjustments), or bad design...
First thing to do in resolving this issue is to at least check your display using test patterns (ideal would be calibrated test generator) and find out if your display can be adjusted (does it sound like ISF calibration? Yes, it does - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!). If you know that your display is OK, and you still have the problem, it's next step: calibrating your display to your source... This way, unless either one has "built-in" problem, you will have perfectly calibrated combo...
As specifically A2 goes, there are early reports, that it does NOT respond correctly to requests from displays, therefore often delivering wrong signals... Now, A1 on the other hand, has that ability, I use it with LumagenHDP Video Processor, and at the request from VP, it delivers proper colorspace and video level signal, leading to absolutely stunning image...
I just hope for all of consumers using DVI connections, that Toshiba not only corrects this potential A2's bug, but solves the problem once and for all providing manual software override for those settings...
That's what we really need!

Did I confuse you enough ?

Great post, but I am afraid that many will continue to 'mix and match' BTB and "black crush", not recognizing this issue they 'observe' may be correctable.

Could you expand on the portion of your post I highlighted "Now, A1 on the other hand, has that ability..."? Is is simply that if a display requests a specific signal/colorspace, the A1 will interpret and respond correctly?

web
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post #12 of 39
12/16/06 at 9:49am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by k.berger View Post

Did I confuse you enough ?

Thank you sir for your helpful post and taking the time to explain! No, I'm not near as confused as I was...

I'll just have to wait and see what happens next week when I make the connection(s). Thanks again!
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post #13 of 39
12/16/06 at 10:11am
Quote:
Originally Posted by web View Post

Great post, but I am afraid that many will continue to 'mix and match' BTB and "black crush", not recognizing this issue they 'observe' may be correctable.

Could you expand on the portion of your post I highlighted "Now, A1 on the other hand, has that ability..."? Is is simply that if a display requests a specific signal/colorspace, the A1 will interpret and respond correctly?

web

You are unfortunately right (as for users generally misunderstanding those issues). Just look at post above yours...
As for your assumption: You are absolutely right; I will give you real-life example:
I have A1 connected to LumagenHDP Video Processor. It has DVI (physically speaking) connectors, but in the software configuration there is option to set those up almost any way you want, in this case for INPUT to request "Component 422" Colorspace (yes, just to make things more confusing: there IS something called "component" over digital connection) and when you set Lumagen's input to Video Level signal sensitivity, Toshiba will output perfect image without "black crush" or BTB/WTW issues. Of course you have to set Lumagen't output to proper parameters for your display, In my case, I set it to output RGB colorspace with Video level signal for Dtronics DVI -> RGB Converter, feeding modified Marquee 8000 CRT PJ on 108" diag 16x9 screen.
Off subject: added benefit of this configuration is that Lumagen outputs 1080p/48 fps, so there is no cadence judder...
Very cinematic experience!

Kris
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post #14 of 39
12/16/06 at 10:22am
The problem with the HDMI->DVI "BTB/black crush" issue is not that you loose BTB and WTW data. If 0-15 and 235-255 were just "cropped" it wouldn't be a big deal. The problem is that Studio RGB is expanded to PC RGB which will not only "push out/off" BTB and WTW data, but what was black at 16 is now 0 and what was white at 235 (or is it 234, I can never remember ) is now 255 and everything else in between 16 and 235 is converted, with some "studio" values being converted to the same "PC" RGB value. The latter is no big deal, it's the expansion of the video range that is the problem. Depending on the display, compensating for black being 0 may cause a loss of "data" or at the high end and/or compression of the dynamic range which can still lead to real "black crush" or "white crush" or just "crush" in general at some part of the video range. If the display doesn't "understand" the PC RGB range then proper calibration can be difficult, if possible at all. Anyway you look at it, you are not getting the same information that is encoded on the disc. This may not be a big deal to some, but to others it is. Component output is the alternative that works just fine.

larry
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post #15 of 39
12/16/06 at 2:31pm
With the A1, Black Crush raised its ugly head after firmware 1.2. I was able to resolve the problems (loss of detail in dark areas and White Clipping) by going back from 1.4 to 1.2.

You cannot go back to 1.2 from 2.0 for other technical reasons.

I am using the A1 with a Sony Grand Wega Via HDMI>DVI. I also ran into this problem when hooking an A2 into this setup.

The problem came with the Firmware upgrade because sRGB was replaced with RGB when using DVI. You can get the technical details for RGB SRGB here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SRGB_color_space

The good news is that this fopar can be resolved via firmware. Hopefully Toshiba will address this issue in upcoming firmware updates.
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post #16 of 39
12/16/06 at 3:09pm
I upgraded to the A2 hoping to get away from the HDMI>DVI BTB problems. The A2 still has it and on my display I can't get above 480p resolution. So far for me the A2 upgrade has been a bust and waste of money.

Before anybody says it I want to use HDMI so I can upconvert SD-DVD. Yes component will work for HD-DVD discs but I want what any standard upconverting DVD player seems capable of over HDMI>DVI.

Fix it Toshiba.......

Jim
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post #17 of 39
12/16/06 at 3:24pm
Motoman,

I have the same problem with my A2; I can't get any resolution over 480p through the HDMI to DVI connection. I have a Tosh 57HDX82 that is HDCP compliant and worked just fine with an A1 and my Panasonic S97.

If Toshiba doesn't fix this in short order I may just jump off the HD DVD bandwagon as Gen 3 is too far away. In any event, until this issue is resolved I will quit buying any more HD DVD's.
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post #18 of 39
12/16/06 at 6:30pm
^^^ I understand the feeling. I haven't turned mine back on since hooking it up on Thursday. I can't seem to get it looking right over component and HDMI>DVI can only do 480P. Don't know what the component deal is. I remember when I first hooked up my A1 I had that WOW factor over the HDMI>DVI but not so with the A2 over component.I've adjusted everything and it just doesn't look right.

I could not wait to get the A2 but it has really left me with a sour taste in my mouth. My Oppo is currently getting more use than either Toshiba I own.

Jim
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post #19 of 39
12/17/06 at 10:14am
Quote:
Originally Posted by k.berger View Post

You are unfortunately right (as for users generally misunderstanding those issues). Just look at post above yours...
As for your assumption: You are absolutely right; I will give you real-life example:
I have A1 connected to LumagenHDP Video Processor. It has DVI (physically speaking) connectors, but in the software configuration there is option to set those up almost any way you want, in this case for INPUT to request "Component 422" Colorspace (yes, just to make things more confusing: there IS something called "component" over digital connection) and when you set Lumagen's input to Video Level signal sensitivity, Toshiba will output perfect image without "black crush" or BTB/WTW issues. Of course you have to set Lumagen't output to proper parameters for your display, In my case, I set it to output RGB colorspace with Video level signal for Dtronics DVI -> RGB Converter, feeding modified Marquee 8000 CRT PJ on 108" diag 16x9 screen.
Off subject: added benefit of this configuration is that Lumagen outputs 1080p/48 fps, so there is no cadence judder...
Very cinematic experience!

Kris

Thanks for the reply. My experience is that my display (Mitsubishi 65813) does not exhibit the 'black crush' issue when connected via HDMI-DVI using the 2.0 firmware. I have compared both the component and HDMI-DVI connections and there is no loss of detail in dark scenes with the HDMI-DVI connection.

I have used all of the firmware releases since the initial release and with each release there was no loss in black detail. Such a loss would be immediately noticeable with this display (RP-CRT, 9" CRTs) since black level resolution is one of its major strengths. Hopefully, Toshiba will issue a firmware release that can be quantitatively verified as producing the 'correct' values for HDMI-DVI connections. Then maybe folks whose real issue is display calibration can be persuaded to address that issue.

web
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post #20 of 39
12/17/06 at 1:52pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by web View Post

Hopefully, Toshiba will issue a firmware release that can be quantitatively verified as producing the 'correct' values for HDMI-DVI connections. Then maybe folks whose real issue is display calibration can be persuaded to address that issue.

web

So if I have a DVI connection that will calibrate correctly when hooked up to a Oppo player and I remove it and in it's place I put a A1 or A2 and it will not calibrate correctly it's my displays fault?

I'm no expert or do I claim to be but am I missing something here?

Jim
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post #21 of 39
12/17/06 at 3:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by motoman View Post

So if I have a DVI connection that will calibrate correctly when hooked up to a Oppo player and I remove it and in it's place I put a A1 or A2 and it will not calibrate correctly it's my displays fault?

I'm no expert or do I claim to be but am I missing something here?

Jim

If a perfect world digital output from all DVD players would only need one calibration setting on a display. There's only one digital value for every color component that makes up a pixel (i.e only one representation for black, white, red, etc.) and that value is encoded on the DVD. Sadly that is not the case. Many players have "adjustment" circuits that the video stream must go through and the neutral settings can sometimes modify the data. For some reason some players convert to PC video when using RGB, etc. etc. (I'm ignoring any issue that may occur during MPEG decoding and YCbCr 4:2:0 -> 4:2:2 upsampling).

In your case if the A1 (or A2) we working properly HDMI->DVI then one setting on the display should get you close with both players, maybe even the same. You won't know until you calibrate.

Also, I didn't know the A2 had problems outputting above 480p when HDMI->DVI. IIRC, this happened in a few cases with the A1 using "non-commercial" DVDs.

Being one of the firsts to jump in on a new problem always has its risks and surprises.

larry
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post #22 of 39
12/17/06 at 3:53pm
this is an excellent thread, treating many of the confusions and misunderstandings about this issue that affects all of us with DVI inputs one way or another.

May I kindly recommend a couple things? One, make this post sticky (duh), two, a FAQ that details what to do to roughly calibrate your set for black/white level when the Tosh does it's "expansion" thing for range, how to test immediately whether your set is doing things well or poorly, etc.

The topic is made more difficult by the fact that there's a setting for black level in the Tosh setup that simply is broken, so one finds themselves fooling around with settings that should resolve the issue but don't.

As it is, I've cranked brightness and contrast on one setting on my CRT-RPTV to compensate for detail loss, and made the p/q fairly fabulous. However, I do have to change my set back to, in this case, "Movie" (from "pro) when I'm watching HDTV, my Oppo, etc., so that I'm not in some wacky torch mode.

Ideally, of course, I'd be able to calibrate the set once and for all with the A1 and the forthcoming DVE, with DVI blacklevel appropriately set to studio range. It's frustrating that this fix isn't being implemented given that there's bloody space for it in the setup screen...

Anybody who's super knowledgeable want to take a crack at the FAQ/HDMI>DVI guide? As it currently affects the A2s as well (and, by extension, the XA2s may suffer the same fate) it's certainly worth it. Sadly, I'm not knowledgeable myself to pull out advice with this matter, I defer to the likes of those above that, frankly, know their "shite"...
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post #23 of 39
12/17/06 at 10:32pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by PooperScooper View Post

In your case if the A1 (or A2) we working properly HDMI->DVI then one setting on the display should get you close with both players, maybe even the same. You won't know until you calibrate.

Also, I didn't know the A2 had problems outputting above 480p when HDMI->DVI. IIRC, this happened in a few cases with the A1 using "non-commercial" DVDs.

Being one of the firsts to jump in on a new problem always has its risks and surprises.

larry

Thanks for the input Larry. I have calibrated the input to both players. I can pull in the detail needed using the Oppo player and the displays contrast and picture settings. If I unhook the Oppo and add the A1 or A2 to the same input I run out of adjustments before I'm able to get the same detail as I had before.

Yep it's a real PITA that the A2 on my setup will not go above 480p. The A1 will but no go on the A2. Hopefully Toshiba will look at both of these issues real soon.
The BTB issues over DVI should have already been addressed but I'm not sure there are enough of us (DVI rejects) to be taken seriously.

Jim
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post #24 of 39
12/18/06 at 6:53am
Quote:
Originally Posted by PooperScooper View Post

The problem with the HDMI->DVI "BTB/black crush" issue is not that you loose BTB and WTW data. If 0-15 and 235-255 were just "cropped" it wouldn't be a big deal. The problem is that Studio RGB is expanded to PC RGB which will not only "push out/off" BTB and WTW data, but what was black at 16 is now 0 and what was white at 235 (or is it 234, I can never remember ) is now 255 and everything else in between 16 and 235 is converted, with some "studio" values being converted to the same "PC" RGB value. The latter is no big deal, it's the expansion of the video range that is the problem. Depending on the display, compensating for black being 0 may cause a loss of "data" or at the high end and/or compression of the dynamic range which can still lead to real "black crush" or "white crush" or just "crush" in general at some part of the video range. If the display doesn't "understand" the PC RGB range then proper calibration can be difficult, if possible at all. Anyway you look at it, you are not getting the same information that is encoded on the disc. This may not be a big deal to some, but to others it is. Component output is the alternative that works just fine.

larry

thank you. i don't know what upsets me more; the fact toshiba hasn't fixed it yet, or people telling me i need to calibrate my display.

you can't calibrate something that doesn't exist.
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post #25 of 39
12/18/06 at 11:30am
Quote:
Originally Posted by billymac View Post

thank you. i don't know what upsets me more; the fact toshiba hasn't fixed it yet, or people telling me i need to calibrate my display.

you can't calibrate something that doesn't exist.

Amen brother
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post #26 of 39
12/18/06 at 1:22pm
Maybe one real hope is that the Black levels option will really be made to work? Not having this issue with the A1 and 2.0 makes me plenty afraid to load any FW update that addresses the issue. I am HDMI from A1 to HDMI to M1 adpater which is said to be DVI-HDCP on the inside.
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post #27 of 39
12/18/06 at 5:20pm
I have tried to different Toshiba hd-a2 and both did not go over 480p on my setup. I have a Samsung 710ae front projector resolution 720p/1080i and running the HDMI to a DVI. My friend has Toshiba A1 and he hooked it up to my system and it looked great and pump out 1080i. I called Toshiba and I think I know more about electronics then the guy on the other end of the phone.
Does anyone have any suggestions?
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post #28 of 39
12/18/06 at 5:45pm
^^ If you can go component into your projector that will be the only way to get 1080i till Toshiba can issue a fix for our HDMI>DVI setups.

Jim
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post #29 of 39
12/18/06 at 5:45pm
I have found the A2 does not do HDMI->DVI colorspace conversion correctly for HD sources, much like older versions of the HD-A1 firmware.
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post #30 of 39
12/18/06 at 5:47pm
..you may not be able to get things perfect, but does anybody have the makings of a FAQ for the -amelioration- of the problem pending Tosh getting off their butts and figuring out a fix?
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AVS › AVS Forum › Blu-ray & HD DVD › HD DVD Players › HD-A2 HDMI > DVI and BTB/WTW issues?