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HIGH POWER a Review! Part 1 - Page 90

post #2671 of 3744
7/13/10 at 6:03am
Whats also crazy if you were to look at the screen, the screen looks basically perfect. But when you turn the projector on that area seems to be darker, its like theirs a faint dark blotch in that corner. I cant live with that

if you take a look at the second picture posted above, the fly crap or dark spot in the middle i was able to rub off, but you can see a faint dark circle around that spot. That it seems is a damaged area from trying to clean it.
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post #2672 of 3744
7/13/10 at 6:24am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murilo View Post

Well sadly while the spot is nearly gone the area i had to clean it is slightly darker now. I dont know what im going to do. The highpower is definately not cleaning freindly from my experience.

I only rubbed as soft as i could to finally get it off. While the mark is not even visible the area i rubbed it is now a bit darker.

Im just very disappointed i guess. Electric highpower pretty much ruined at this point.

Don't give up. Since you feel it is ruined you can not do any harm in trying to correct it. Get a clean micro fiber cloth and wet it with warm water and wipe the area turning the rage often. Apply some pressure, you are not scrubbing a pot of baked on muck but you can use the type of force you would to clean a window pane. Get a can of air (used to clean computers) and blow dry the area (or a hair dryer if it has a cold setting).
If the spot is still dark, next I would try the denatured alcohol as stated above. Apply it to a clean dry rag and wipe the area gently turning the rag.
Blow dry and inspect. At this point I would let it sit a day or so even after blowing dry to make sure all the moisture is gone.
As a last resort, I would spray the area with windex (don't soak it to much.. maybe just spray the rag at first) and wipe with a dry rag the rinse with a damp rag, dry as before.. windex cures everything!
Go slow and careful and I think you will be fine.
Hopefully you are supporting the back of the screen as you rub so as not to stretch the surface of the fabric.
I forget ..is this the 2.4 or 2.8 fabric.. think you have the 2.8 correct?
Also, check the back of the screen near the spot.. when the screen rolls up the front comes in contact with the back of the screen.. could still have something on there that will transfer..
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post #2673 of 3744
7/13/10 at 7:45am
I tried windex this time, only used glass cleaner before hope it works.

I followed your directions. Should i leave it down to let it dry or put it up?

I think your right it may take a day or two to dry.

Saturday when i tried the glass cleaner the next day it still did not look any better but today it did look better it seemed more faint. But alas i could still see it when sportscenter aired hockey highlights it was quite visible dark area on the ice.
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post #2674 of 3744
7/13/10 at 8:00am
leave it down to dry.
Oh BTW, if it looks different after time then it is not damaged.. still just not clean..or still wet
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post #2675 of 3744
7/13/10 at 8:06am
I found that if I don't actively dry the dark spot after cleaning, it takes a very long time to disappear. I know from FLBoy's post that DaLite doesn't recommend doing circular motions for their screens, but it has never hurt my 2.8 HP with a microfiber cloth. Perhaps the other screens (including the 2.4) are more susceptible to damage with that motion. If I continue to rub the microfiber cloth on the dark spot, it does go away quickly.

You also have to make sure that you use a very clean cloth on the screen. If there's any soapy residue in it, it will leave a visible stain.
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post #2676 of 3744
7/13/10 at 10:44am
You might try applying a small piece of cloth wetted with cleaner and let it soak awhile before rubbing.

That worked for me when I rolled up a moth with the screen a couple of times.

And if it seems clean but still dark, clean the entire screen so it doesn't stand out.
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post #2677 of 3744
7/13/10 at 4:44pm
Now I know you guys said that if a viewer is outside the width of the screen then he'd still get 1.0 gain, right ? I'm confused because using the screen gain calculator I can get less than 1.0 gain if the angle is 40
or something (can't remember the exact angle, typing this on my phone).
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post #2678 of 3744
7/13/10 at 4:47pm
someone did actual measurements of an hp sample and got .8 off axis.. If there is a lot of viewing outside the cone, it may not be the best choice... If most of the time is is 2 or 3 folks.. don't worry about the guest!
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post #2679 of 3744
7/14/10 at 7:18am
I received a gain-versus-viewing-angle graph for the 2.8 HP a couple of years ago from Da-Lite. It shows the gain dropping to 1.0 at 18 degrees off axis. At 30 degrees and higher it stays at 0.75. This is about 30% of the brightness for positions in the sweet spot, which typically can reach a gain of 2.0-2.3. (Positions that could theoretically approach a gain of 2.8 would have either head shadowing or projector blocking the view.)

Subjectively, the picture does appear somewhat dimmer at 30 degrees, but the human eye compensates for much of the brightness difference if the picture in the sweet spot is reasonably bright to begin with. Advantageously, the cross-screen brightness uniformity usually remains excellent for the HP even for off-axis viewers.

One thing to remember is that a front projection screen is a passive device. It cannot reflect more light in all directions than it receives. What gain screens do is redirect light toward an on-axis position. This ALWAYS comes at the expense of less light for off-axis viewing positions. These effects become more pronounced as the gain increases.

If you want every possible viewing position to see the same brightness, you will need to get a matte white 1.0 gain screen. This will either limit your screen size, or require an unusually bright projector for a large screen. No free lunch here.
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post #2680 of 3744
7/14/10 at 8:47am
Quote:
Originally Posted by FLBoy View Post

I received a gain-versus-viewing-angle graph for the 2.8 HP a couple of years ago from Da-Lite. It shows the gain dropping to 1.0 at 18 degrees off axis. At 30 degrees and higher it stays at 0.75. This is about 30% of the brightness for positions in the sweet spot, which typically can reach a gain of 2.0-2.3. (Positions that could theoretically approach a gain of 2.8 would have either head shadowing or projector blocking the view.)

Subjectively, the picture does appear somewhat dimmer at 30 degrees, but the human eye compensates for much of the brightness difference if the picture in the sweet spot is reasonably bright to begin with. Advantageously, the cross-screen brightness uniformity usually remains excellent for the HP even for off-axis viewers.

One thing to remember is that a front projection screen is a passive device. It cannot reflect more light in all directions than it receives. What gain screens do is redirect light toward an on-axis position. This ALWAYS comes at the expense of less light for off-axis viewing positions. These effects become more pronounced as the gain increases.

If you want every possible viewing position to see the same brightness, you will need to get a matte white 1.0 gain screen. This will either limit your screen size, or require an unusually bright projector for a large screen. No free lunch here.

Excellent post
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post #2681 of 3744
7/14/10 at 4:30pm
Thanks, bp. Hey, small world--I lived in Colleyville before moving here!
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post #2682 of 3744
7/15/10 at 9:05am
Quote:
Originally Posted by FLBoy View Post

Thanks, bp. Hey, small world--I lived in Colleyville before moving here!

I'm right by the corner of Central and Mid-Cities - almost in Colleyville
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post #2683 of 3744
7/16/10 at 5:43pm
Will these screens ever come down in price? I am mainly looking at the fixed Cinema Contour model.
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post #2684 of 3744
7/16/10 at 6:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rgathright View Post

Will these screens ever come down in price? I am mainly looking at the fixed Cinema Contour model.

"Ever come down in price?"? One of the reason these screens are so popular is they have such great performance AND they are relatively inexpensive to boot.
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post #2685 of 3744
7/16/10 at 6:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rgathright View Post

Will these screens ever come down in price? I am mainly looking at the fixed Cinema Contour model.

Probably not in list price, but the street price is heavily discounted. Also, the Cinema Contour is the most elegant of the Da-Lite models. The Da-Snap and the Perm-Wall are far less expensive (and less elegant) versions of the Da-Lite fixed frame screen models, but with the exact same screen material.

I would suggest that if budget is limited, you pick the least elegant version you can tolerate, and then get a quote from Jason at the AV science store. Their prices are very fair.
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post #2686 of 3744
7/17/10 at 7:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by FLBoy View Post

Probably not in list price, but the street price is heavily discounted. Also, the Cinema Contour is the most elegant of the Da-Lite models. The Da-Snap and the Perm-Wall are far less expensive (and less elegant) versions of the Da-Lite fixed frame screen models, but with the exact same screen material.

I would suggest that if budget is limited, you pick the least elegant version you can tolerate, and then get a quote from Jason at the AV science store. Their prices are very fair.

Or purchase a Model B if the sizes they offer suit your needs, cut the material off, and build your own frame!
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post #2687 of 3744
7/17/10 at 8:13pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by NickTF View Post

Or purchase a Model B if the sizes they offer suit your needs, cut the material off, and build your own frame!

Exactly what I did. Saved me a lot of money.
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post #2688 of 3744
7/17/10 at 8:32pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by NickTF View Post

Or purchase a Model B if the sizes they offer suit your needs, cut the material off, and build your own frame!

Ditto. Less than 3 bills for the 106" Model-B and about 1 bill for the aluminum frame material from Home Depot. My next frame will be a wooden canvas frame since it flexes less but it may be a bit more.
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post #2689 of 3744
7/17/10 at 11:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murilo View Post

I tried windex this time, only used glass cleaner before hope it works.

I followed your directions. Should i leave it down to let it dry or put it up?

I think your right it may take a day or two to dry.

Saturday when i tried the glass cleaner the next day it still did not look any better but today it did look better it seemed more faint. But alas i could still see it when sportscenter aired hockey highlights it was quite visible dark area on the ice.

I cleaned my screen top to bottom with a micro fibre cloth used for cleaning glass and a bucket of warm water, it came a pretty good. If your using a heavily damp cloth it can take a little while for the screen to fully dry but I'm only talking a couple of hours at most. It doesn't take days that's for sure unless your theatre room is really cold or something even then I doubt it.
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post #2690 of 3744
7/18/10 at 7:00am
Well the good news is its pretty faint now after cleaning. Its ever so slightly darker yet where i rubbed but i have not noticed it. I guess I will have to see it on hockey again, with the white ice and camera panning it was most noticeable but so far its hard to tell even when im looking.

Fingers crossed.
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post #2691 of 3744
7/18/10 at 8:52am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murilo View Post

Well the good news is its pretty faint now after cleaning. Its ever so slightly darker yet where i rubbed but i have not noticed it. I guess I will have to see it on hockey again, with the white ice and camera panning it was most noticeable but so far its hard to tell even when im looking.

Fingers crossed.

Glad you had success! stop looking for it and enjoy the picture!
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post #2692 of 3744
7/19/10 at 6:00pm
Exactly i keep looking for it now, i will probably forget about it in a few months.
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post #2693 of 3744
7/20/10 at 8:26am
About 2 days from ordering the 106" model b and cutting the material off to mount to the frame/back board (96x56 2 layers of brown hardboard laminated together) I created originally for Wilson Art DW. Anyone have any suggestions on what to use to cut the material and any stapling advice? I understand that the border is just painted on top of the screen material and given the nature of this material I would think just regular ole scissors won't do the job. I have multiple things I can use and will purchase what I need if I don't have it to do this right. My model b will have 12 or 18 inches of black out drop down so I have plenty area to cut and not screw anything up.

I also understand this material to be very rigid/non tensionable. Any comments on stapling vs. the instructions i've read regarding stapling BOC?

Thanks for any advice.
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post #2694 of 3744
7/27/10 at 9:11am
Quote:
Originally Posted by NickTF View Post

About 2 days from ordering the 106" model b and cutting the material off to mount to the frame/back board (96x56 2 layers of brown hardboard laminated together) I created originally for Wilson Art DW. Anyone have any suggestions on what to use to cut the material and any stapling advice? I understand that the border is just painted on top of the screen material and given the nature of this material I would think just regular ole scissors won't do the job. I have multiple things I can use and will purchase what I need if I don't have it to do this right. My model b will have 12 or 18 inches of black out drop down so I have plenty area to cut and not screw anything up.

I also understand this material to be very rigid/non tensionable. Any comments on stapling vs. the instructions i've read regarding stapling BOC?

Thanks for any advice.

This screen is not hard to cut. Sharper is always better. I don't have any first hand experience with stapling but be very careful when you are handling the screen material. You don't want to twist or crease the material as that can cause the glass beads to break away inside the screen material. This leaves a little black line or spots wherever it occurs. Good luck.

I am installing an IB sub as well. Four 18's. I have the first two in and just waiting for the last two to arrive. Just two is phenominal!
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post #2695 of 3744
7/27/10 at 10:18am
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoCaboNow View Post

This screen is not hard to cut. Sharper is always better. I don't have any first hand experience with stapling but be very careful when you are handling the screen material. You don't want to twist or crease the material as that can cause the glass beads to break away inside the screen material. This leaves a little black line or spots wherever it occurs. Good luck.

I am installing an IB sub as well. Four 18's. I have the first two in and just waiting for the last two to arrive. Just two is phenominal!

Thanks. I've read to be very careful as well given the nature of this material. I have 12" of the black border portion to work with at the top which is nice to know. Looking at my current Da-Lite Model C High Contrast Matte White Screen (which is for sale with Da-Lite's hanging bracketts by the way) it looks like the bottom bar will simply unscrew and can be removed that way without cutting.

Have a Surebonder 9600 air stapler on the way which should make life a bit easier.

I had two tc 2000 15" woofers and two tc 18" passive radiators in two enclosures (one woofer one radiator per box) and while that system was awesome it didn't come close to how incredible, realistic, scary, quick, and intricate this current four 18" sytem is. I'm a believer and the thing is I have half the money in this IB than I had in the previous box(s) setup. Need to patch a tiny hole where my projector wiring comes down along the projector pole. Watched Terminator Salvation the other day with the volume cranked and had insulation coming out of the ceiling lol.
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post #2696 of 3744
7/27/10 at 3:52pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by NickTF View Post

Thanks. I've read to be very careful as well given the nature of this material. I have 12" of the black border portion to work with at the top which is nice to know. Looking at my current Da-Lite Model C High Contrast Matte White Screen (which is for sale with Da-Lite's hanging bracketts by the way) it looks like the bottom bar will simply unscrew and can be removed that way without cutting.

Have a Surebonder 9600 air stapler on the way which should make life a bit easier.

I had two tc 2000 15" woofers and two tc 18" passive radiators in two enclosures (one woofer one radiator per box) and while that system was awesome it didn't come close to how incredible, realistic, scary, quick, and intricate this current four 18" sytem is. I'm a believer and the thing is I have half the money in this IB than I had in the previous box(s) setup. Need to patch a tiny hole where my projector wiring comes down along the projector pole. Watched Terminator Salvation the other day with the volume cranked and had insulation coming out of the ceiling lol.

Know what you mean. I love my HP screen and PJ. But I LOVE my IB sub.
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post #2697 of 3744
7/27/10 at 4:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoCaboNow View Post

Know what you mean. I love my HP screen and PJ. But I LOVE my IB sub.

I have 8 AE IB15's in the wall. Crimony... it really isn't necessary. My closest neighbors are 600 feet away and they can hear it when it's not even at full volume.
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post #2698 of 3744
7/27/10 at 5:25pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by NickTF View Post

About 2 days from ordering the 106" model b and cutting the material off to mount to the frame/back board (96x56 2 layers of brown hardboard laminated together) I created originally for Wilson Art DW. Anyone have any suggestions on what to use to cut the material and any stapling advice? I understand that the border is just painted on top of the screen material and given the nature of this material I would think just regular ole scissors won't do the job. I have multiple things I can use and will purchase what I need if I don't have it to do this right. My model b will have 12 or 18 inches of black out drop down so I have plenty area to cut and not screw anything up.

I also understand this material to be very rigid/non tensionable. Any comments on stapling vs. the instructions i've read regarding stapling BOC?

Thanks for any advice.

Not sure if you've already done this or not, but I can tell you that stapling the HP material is one of those things that I either naturally suck at, or it's an actual certifiable bitch. I've done it twice so far and invented profanity both times. I cut my material out of a Model B pulldown as well for a 2.35:1 screen, and everything but the cursed stapling is easy. I became a pro at stapling BOC, though.
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post #2699 of 3744
7/27/10 at 6:35pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by sb1 View Post

Not sure if you've already done this or not, but I can tell you that stapling the HP material is one of those things that I either naturally suck at, or it's an actual certifiable bitch. I've done it twice so far and invented profanity both times. I cut my material out of a Model B pulldown as well for a 2.35:1 screen, and everything but the cursed stapling is easy. I became a pro at stapling BOC, though.

I have an air stapler on the way. I'm open to any more detail you want to share with why this material sucks to staple so I can do my best to avoid any issues. Thanks.

I just dropped my projector down and it turned out very nicely. When I have the screen up on the frame I made (should be mounting august 7) I will take some pictures.
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post #2700 of 3744
7/27/10 at 6:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by NickTF View Post

I have an air stapler on the way. I'm open to any more detail you want to share with why this material sucks to staple so I can do my best to avoid any issues. Thanks.

I just dropped my projector down and it turned out very nicely. When I have the screen up on the frame I made (should be mounting august 7) I will take some pictures.

The issue is the HP material's lack of flexibility. There simply is none. The BOC cloth had a small measure of stretch to it that allowed it to be stretched taut and stapled. I made the frame, laid the HP material over it like normal, then stapled it starting with one staple at each point of the compass (one in the middle of each piece of wood). Probably the wrong way, but that's what I did. From there I just worked my way around. The good thing is that even if you do have wrinkles or sag in it, it won't show when a movie is playing unless it's really bad and/or you get a pan across the screen in the wrinkled area.

One very helpful thing is to make sure the frame and material is square (of course). Especially the cut in the material. If the HP material is cut square it's way helpful in getting it stapled without sag anywhere (I learned that on the first attempt).

The next time I do it I may try using glued Velcro instead of staples.
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