I ordered and received in 6 days a HSU VTF-2 MK3. It's a beast as it's much larger in real life. It makes my Paradigm Monitor 11 v.4 look smaller now. My previous sub was an Athena P4000 and when I bought it, it was light years ahead in tightness, dynamics and able to reach down to about 27Hz flat with the help of a BFD vs. my Craptachi 10" 100W subwoofer, but I wanted to feel the sub slam into my chest the way my friend's Servo 15 does, but without paying that much. I had my eyes on the eD a2-300, but with numerous delays after ordering over a month and that guy from Montreal having his stop working after the second day, I cancelled.
I am a cheapskate. If I can get maximum return on my dollars, that is where I'll spend it. This methodology hasn't worked so far as I've replaced my receiver and all my front speakers twice by cheaping out the first time around. I should have bought the Pioneer 1015 the first time around and the Paradigm Monitor 11's the first time around as that was exactly the performance I was looking for.
I just got the HSU yesterday so I basically placed it where the Athena was, which isn't the ideal place. The measurements you see are including the mains with no BFD (too excited and lazy to disconnect mains). As you can see in the layout, the sub is in between the TV and the front right speaker which is closest to the opening of the room. I'll move it to the front left corner where the media stand is and lug my PC downstairs to run REW to set up the BFD once I get enough initiative. The graph shows the HSU VTF-2 MK3 raw in my room and the pink line is running the HSU and the Athena placed nearfield behind the main couch crossed over at 80Hz on the Pio 1015 and with the low pass filter set at 60Hz on the Athena to accentuate the slam. As the graph indicates I got what I was looking for. A sub that can reach down to the 20Hz level!!! It also shows that it's probably best to run it by itself without the Athena.
So what does that translate to in real life terms compared to the BFD'd Athena? The changes are subtle yet prounounced. I guess it's a case of diminishing returns. If I went from my Craptachi to the HSU, then I'll be hyperbolizing with the best of them singing the virtues of house crumbling bass. Don't misinterpret my words. The HSU is a great sub and has met all my goals being able to reproduce sound into the teens and have that physical effect during the scenes like Darla, U571,and Master and Commander. The upgrade from the Athena wasn't orgasmically huge, but it's there. The car door slams in Transporter 2 are "fuller", the music score more dynamic and detailed (the bass has more texture is the way I would describe it), it's not boomy and seems to have lots in reserve. I think if someone has an Athena P4000 or a Bic H100 have a pretty good starting level. With the huge (to a cheapskate) increase in price there is an improvement but it's not a 1:1 relationship. Was it worth it for me? Yes - it achieved what I wanted. I just wished I started with the HSU VTF-2 MK3 and saved all the time researching, reviewing and searching for the best bang for my buck. So if you're starting out, I would plan out what your ideal setup would be and work towards that. Save your money and buy the equipment that will give you what you want. Don't settle for good enough, settle for exactly what you want and you'll save money and time in the long run.
This is what I've wanted in my sub and I'm glad I've found it - 20Hz performance, excellent service and advice from the vendor, peace of mind (7 years on the woofer and 2 years on the amp), a sub that can actually shake the house and ripple through your body. Movies I've watched numerous times are somewhat different. I feel that I'm drawn more into the movies as it visual, audio, and now a physical experience with those low bass scenes going through the floor and sofa and it seems like a different more enjoyable movie - well worth it. Hopefully this gives others a realistic impression on this sub and what it's like to upgrade from various levels of cheap subs. I think this is probably the best value out there along with the BIC H100. If I was starting out and wanted the best performance but could only spend $250, I'd get the H100 (I haven't heard it, but based on the feedback and the one chart I've seen of it comparing it to a A3-500) and the next step up would be this one. What above this I'm not concerned about as this is all the performance I wanted in the first place. Famous last words......(I don't need a VTF-3 HO....I don't need a VTF-3 HO......)


I am a cheapskate. If I can get maximum return on my dollars, that is where I'll spend it. This methodology hasn't worked so far as I've replaced my receiver and all my front speakers twice by cheaping out the first time around. I should have bought the Pioneer 1015 the first time around and the Paradigm Monitor 11's the first time around as that was exactly the performance I was looking for.
I just got the HSU yesterday so I basically placed it where the Athena was, which isn't the ideal place. The measurements you see are including the mains with no BFD (too excited and lazy to disconnect mains). As you can see in the layout, the sub is in between the TV and the front right speaker which is closest to the opening of the room. I'll move it to the front left corner where the media stand is and lug my PC downstairs to run REW to set up the BFD once I get enough initiative. The graph shows the HSU VTF-2 MK3 raw in my room and the pink line is running the HSU and the Athena placed nearfield behind the main couch crossed over at 80Hz on the Pio 1015 and with the low pass filter set at 60Hz on the Athena to accentuate the slam. As the graph indicates I got what I was looking for. A sub that can reach down to the 20Hz level!!! It also shows that it's probably best to run it by itself without the Athena.
So what does that translate to in real life terms compared to the BFD'd Athena? The changes are subtle yet prounounced. I guess it's a case of diminishing returns. If I went from my Craptachi to the HSU, then I'll be hyperbolizing with the best of them singing the virtues of house crumbling bass. Don't misinterpret my words. The HSU is a great sub and has met all my goals being able to reproduce sound into the teens and have that physical effect during the scenes like Darla, U571,and Master and Commander. The upgrade from the Athena wasn't orgasmically huge, but it's there. The car door slams in Transporter 2 are "fuller", the music score more dynamic and detailed (the bass has more texture is the way I would describe it), it's not boomy and seems to have lots in reserve. I think if someone has an Athena P4000 or a Bic H100 have a pretty good starting level. With the huge (to a cheapskate) increase in price there is an improvement but it's not a 1:1 relationship. Was it worth it for me? Yes - it achieved what I wanted. I just wished I started with the HSU VTF-2 MK3 and saved all the time researching, reviewing and searching for the best bang for my buck. So if you're starting out, I would plan out what your ideal setup would be and work towards that. Save your money and buy the equipment that will give you what you want. Don't settle for good enough, settle for exactly what you want and you'll save money and time in the long run.
This is what I've wanted in my sub and I'm glad I've found it - 20Hz performance, excellent service and advice from the vendor, peace of mind (7 years on the woofer and 2 years on the amp), a sub that can actually shake the house and ripple through your body. Movies I've watched numerous times are somewhat different. I feel that I'm drawn more into the movies as it visual, audio, and now a physical experience with those low bass scenes going through the floor and sofa and it seems like a different more enjoyable movie - well worth it. Hopefully this gives others a realistic impression on this sub and what it's like to upgrade from various levels of cheap subs. I think this is probably the best value out there along with the BIC H100. If I was starting out and wanted the best performance but could only spend $250, I'd get the H100 (I haven't heard it, but based on the feedback and the one chart I've seen of it comparing it to a A3-500) and the next step up would be this one. What above this I'm not concerned about as this is all the performance I wanted in the first place. Famous last words......(I don't need a VTF-3 HO....I don't need a VTF-3 HO......)

















In order to finalize it, I have to lug the PC downstairs and redo the measurements and set up the BFD. These circular arguments can help, but she sees right through it.

