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FnEasy DIY Painted Screen Solution - Page 7

post #181 of 380
Originally Posted by tiddler View Post

I find this image particularly interesting. If you look at the edges of the panels it is obvious they are white, but the truck looks black.

This was the thing that gave me the idea to test the colors in the image.

Below are the two samples the left is the black truck the right is the screen with no image blown up 10 times.

post #182 of 380
In the words of Randy Jackson You go Dawg!!
post #183 of 380
Tiddler, man what a thread you have as well! I have questions regarding substrate, paint and topcoat that you might help me out on as you're well aware I've done tons of reading and research before asking/posting my question.

Here's my story, and I am sticking to it...

The projector will be driven solely by a home built high-end HTPC (Asus P5B Deluxe motherboard, Intel e4300 Core2Duo overclocked to 3.4ghz, Zalman cooler, 2gb of OCZ DDR2 Ram, 74gb WD Raptor 10,000rpm main drive, 1000gb Maxtor 7200rpm storage, Asus 16x DVD, Diamond ATI X1950Pro 512mb dual DVI output PCI express video card, SoundBlaster Audigy2 ZS Platinum PCI sound card, TwinHam HD Satellite Tuner Receiver PCI card coupled to an 80cm motorized dish with the extremely low noise Invacom Circular+Linear LNB on the roof)

Screen Size = 16:9 92" Diagonal (45"x80") viewable area with a 3 3/4" Triple Black Velvet wrapped boarder from Denver Fabrics (they're local unlike Sy Fabrics).

Projector Model = Brand new (clearence priced at Projector People for $625 delivered) Hitachi PJTX100 (1200 Lumens). FYI: I will upgrade to a brighter 1080p model when they dip into the $1500 to $2000 range (hopefully within two years).

Lighting Condition = Off white eggshell finish painted living room with 9' ceilings and four 3'x6' windows that have white cellular shades then dark red velvet curtains that close over the entire window, dramatic light reduction.

Projector Mount = Most likely sitting on one of the roomy shelves of a room divider/shelf system behind the sofa and can be placed anywhere between 4' to 7' feet from the floor as per your guys recommendations. I could ceiling mount the PJ (projector for us newbies) if an absolute must, but I own a two story condo and running the wires would be difficult and costly since I don't have an attic above me.

Any suggestion or other considerations on any part of my setup is greatly appreciated, but I would love to knock out and begin searching for these items ASAP:

1. What rigid and relatively light substrate should I use in a framed setup that will be attached to the front of my fireplace mantel about the midway point then at the top with brackets coming out from my wall to compensate for the 4" mantel protrusion (not above my mantel as the screen would be to high).

2. What is the best brand, base, color and finish paint I should use to coat the recommended substrate in order to achieve the most neutral gray with this setup.

3. What is the best topcoat I should use for recommended substrate and paint?

I will then post all my results and photos comparing a projected HD image on the uncoated (hopefully pure white) substrate to an image of the two most recommended neutral grays in a quadrant format with two of the quadrants with the grays with a matte finish polyurethane topcoat as well. Photos will be taking with a 6 mega pixel camera on manual settings atop a tripod from various angles in several lighting conditions. See, I read the entirety of several threads before making my post... hours and hours I tell you, hours!

I want to help out as much as possible, because you all have helped me tremendously, plus I am the youngest of eleven and sure enough, they're all going to want an HTPC Home Theater after I am done! I've only saved them about 3 months of work and research, believe me when I say research...
post #184 of 380
hey.tiddler yes i did just today finish moving the room around and repainted the room same color dark brown to clean it up some still need to do the ceiling. i am still using the blackout cloth for a screen the one i made looked good at first i thought i might have needed 3 or 4 coats but 2 was enough after the 2nd coat dried it was fine.i will most likely start the wall painted screen next week i wish i could find some sort of board that would work for a 96 inch screen you have any idea? that way i can use the same build idea i did with the first screen.THANK YOU SO MUCH!!
post #185 of 380
i can only go 96 inch because i am 11 feet from screen and that is the largest the mits.hd1000u will do at that distance.
post #186 of 380
Originally Posted by GISMO1 View Post

i can only go 96 inch because i am 11 feet from screen and that is the largest the mits.hd1000u will do at that distance.

I take it you are now using a different wall, you stated initially that you had 14' available.
If you are now stuck with a shorter throw, you may as well just use the 92" screen you already have, 4" isn't worth redoing everything IMO
post #187 of 380
yea when i moved eveything i am using a different wall the screen idea hanging from the ceiling did not go over to well.imust say though moving the room around and with the screen on the wall it is alot nicer looking right now i am just using boc i am going to hang the screen i made on the wall again today and see if there is a big difference in size i have been watching the 96inch boc cloth for about 4 days now.so if there is a big difference i should see it.
post #188 of 380
yea i can go over it the building part and the idea of a hanging screen was fine but when she saw it hanging from the ceiling did not like it that is when i got the go ahead to move the room around and when i did finish the screen i was having a hard time hooking the screen on the chain by my self with 2 people no prmblem.
post #189 of 380
yes it did look like it was floating even more so in dim lighting. i think it could have even looked better if i were to use some sort of cable instead of a chain.it was nice but now i can't wait to start painting a screen on the wall.
post #190 of 380
Tiddler, can you check the RGB numbers from Post #3?

It looks like the values for FnEasy 6 and 8, with and without the poly may be listed in the wrong order. Not sure.
post #191 of 380
Hi tiddler, I need some advice. I've been reading over the difference MIXES for a month now, and I think I'll try this one as it's my first. I have a Hitachi HDPJ52, Full light control except my ceiling is white and so are my walls. The room light up alot when the projector is on. Right now my screen is a 92 elunevision white(same one you painted). I trying to decide on the colour of grey. I would really like to get better blacks but I also watch sports. I'm thinking that the GRaY might be the ticket, but let you help me decide.

post #192 of 380
Thanks Tiddler for taking the time to help me. I'll let you know how I like it.

post #193 of 380
Originally Posted by tiddler View Post

Did you decide on which tint method and lightness of gray to use?

I'll problaby try the Fneasy- 4. What do you mean method? Don't I just go down to HD and showthem those mix #'s and ask them to make it for me. Then apply the poly overtop. I am rolling also.

The ceiling would be hard to change colour, because I have molding that goes around the top and I think it might look stange if it was not white. I wish I could though because my projector is only about 4 to 5 inches away( 7ft ceiling). I do think I'll paint the walls more of a med. grey though.

post #194 of 380
Which one would you prefer, the GRaY I'm guessing. I think you said it was more neutral.
post #195 of 380
from my recolection, there are two types of masonite, tempered and un-tempered. I believe the tempered variety will withstand water-borne paints, while the untempered variety will warp like crazy when wetted.... I don't know which variety HD is stocking...

post #196 of 380
IIRC, the untempered has a hard and smooth side as well, but the tempered one is VERY hard and almost shiny....
post #197 of 380
I used the 3/16 - 4X8' sheet with a hard shining surface on one side and rough on the other. I did not have any warping or bending of the sheet. And that was after 5 coats of paint.
post #198 of 380
Hey Tiddler,

I bought my paint and a 4 by 8 sheet of particle board with the white coating. I also bought some of that primer you recommended, as I figured I better prime this surface. The paint colour after mixing was a little different than I expected. I was expecting it to be a light grey, but it looked just a little bit off white. I'm guessing it will dry darker. Should I mix in a little poly into the paint to allow it to roll flatter, I though I read you telling somebody that.

Should have it done in a couple of days. I'll let you know how it goes.

post #199 of 380
Don't worry I bought the Quart (9XX mL) I'm primeing right now.
post #200 of 380
So I finished it up yesterday. I watched the new Bond movie on it. I ended up making it about 10 inchs bigger than my other screen, so that was pretty cool. I only did one coat of poly, but when I watched the movie I notice two spots on the light scenes that needed another coat, so I did that before bed.

I rolled down the old screen half way down so I could compare the two during a scene or 2 (wife got pissed so I didn't do to much of a comparison). The whites were not quite a bright as before, although that didn't bug me at all. The blacks were a little darker which is what I was after. The colours look good still. I will try it again in a day or two, to see what it looks like with the final coat on. Because of my stupid pets, there is some hair in the paint, but you can't see it at all when in use. I still need to install a black velvet boarder, which will help also. Then install it, right now it's just siting on my subs(on a bit of an angle).

Todd I wanted to thank you again for all you help.

post #201 of 380
Hey all-

I just ordered my hd1000u and it should be here tomorrow. I am trying to find a good DIY screen solution for a 100" screen but all these DIY posts are hundreds long and I am having trouble figuring out what gray to use. I have red drapes (with red walls, white ceiling) up during the day but LOTS of windows so it is still pretty light. At night its pretty dark, but I live in NYC so its never really pitch black. Any ideas? I need to get started ASAP!

ps. I have read a lot of this thread, but its hard to tell sometimes what the latest advancements are....what is considered "best" right now so to speak.

Thank you much......
post #202 of 380
A little OT I know, but you might also want to consider a mid-hue Silver Fire. Not only will the screen have all the more Ambient Light viewing potential, but the color pallet will be exceedingly vibrant, more so than a standard Gray, and the blacks will be "obsidian-like" while whites will be startlingly so. But you have to accept a higher level of involvement (ie; application effort/expense)

I would not hesitate to use such with any high end 1080p PJ with less lumens than you will have available, so your Mitsi will be doing quite nicely.

But then again, at least with all the Lumens available to you, the FnEasy 06 will not result in undue attenuation either. It's main advantage is being easier and more affordable than a true RGBY/Metallic mix. After that, it offers little or no adverse / additional effects to the resulting image. Blacks will be better than a White surface, although the Mitsi's brightness will fight against your getting the best results with any simple paint that attenuates more than reflects.

For that matter, the dreaded RS-MaxMudd would also be more than acceptable, being a plenty bright screen with great CR enhancing properties in it's darker hues.

If you can follow simple directions, they all can be considered, no matter which you choose. But best of all, with any of the paints above on a good substrate, you really can't lose.
post #203 of 380
It never gets any easier.....

I guess I am going to spend this evening going over all the steps involved with both the SF and the FN and see if I can handle putting the extra work into the metallic paint solution. I think I may have found a place that distributes sintra, so at least im on my way there...hopefully. Convince me please!
post #204 of 380
Originally Posted by tiddler View Post

One question I keep asking myself is, why present the LB+YO tints if these GRaY tints are actually more neutral. It really is no more difficult to get the UPW tinted GRaY or LB+YO so what possible advantage might the LB+YO have. The only thing that comes to mind is the concern expressed by one poster about the HD1000 having a green push. If that were true then a deeper V might be helpful.

Any ideas?

Using the GRaY formulas gives more latitude for adjustment, and as you say, it's just as easy to have mixed. I personally believe that NOT using LB is a definite advantage.

post #205 of 380
Well I just started up my hd1000u for the first time. Still trying to find some a substrate that big enough and not too heavy but I found something out when I put my projector on. I have pretty dark burgandy walls. Before i put up a sheet to check things out, I was projecting on the wall. As soon as I put the sheet up I realized I think I liked the red wall better as there is so much ambient light in the room right now. The other thing I noticed was whites were not nearly as dark as I would have thought. Does this mean I should go with a fairly grey mixture?
post #206 of 380

Please explain, what such Yellow Oxide, Thalo Green and Exterior Red
What packing?
Who the manufacturer?
These paints on a water basis or it is dry pigments?
post #207 of 380
Penalties correctly to decipher your formula of a quart?

000 000 000
post #208 of 380
0 06 0 Yellow Oxide
0 09 0 Thalo Green
0 09 0 Exterior Red

I think he wants to know what the 3 columns of numbers mean....

post #209 of 380
Originally Posted by jimwhite View Post

I think he wants to know what the 3 columns of numbers mean....

Yes, I wish to understand, that that each figure in a set designates

post #210 of 380
I ask to forgive for my English

Thanks for the answer!

In my country paints Berh are not accessible.
I shall select analogues from Dulux, Sherwin-Williams, Benjamin Moore and Co. or European manufacturers Tikurilla, Caparol
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