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parkland polywall question

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 
I have some PP on the way to me in the next couple of days.My question is I have read somewhere on here that some people are backing it with something I was wondering why and with what are people backing it with.I want screen to be as light as possible. Any advice is helpfull thanks!

post #2 of 13
You will need at least cross bracing in the back of the PP. It is very flimsy, and will produce waves even if you are careful in stapling or nailing the panel to a frame.
post #3 of 13
Thread Starter 
So it isn't transparent or anything like that?
post #4 of 13
Not at all, it is like a 1/8" white plastic, no light goes through it, it is just pretty flimsy by itself. There is no backing on it. Also be careful, if you let it collapse in, it will create creases in the material if you let it dimple. It is pretty soft, you can cut it with scissors.
post #5 of 13
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the tip!
post #6 of 13
I just bought the parkland poly-wall. What is the best way to make it flat because it is pretty flimsy. I wash thinking about screwing or nailing it on the outside of the frame and gluing it to the middle or cross posts. Bought it at menards for 19.99 looks like a price jump from last i checked on here. The MDF board was 30 so im not looking to buy and glue it on that. Thanks
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post #12 of 13
I made a 94" screen from the PPPW last week by stapling it to a 2.5" hardwood framed lined with black fleece. I hung it using two small hangman's cleats. I didn't use a cross bar and it has no waves, bulges, or hot spots. If you staple well, it should work. I stapled the top first, and then lifted the frame so that it hung down, and then stapled it tight.

Screen Pics
post #13 of 13
My 110" PPPW screen has been up about 4 years. Here is what I did.

1. Built frame from 1x4 Poplar using doll pins and glue in the corners. Pine is cheaper but is hard to fine straight. Poplar is very hard and stable but is a little hard to work with.

2. Covered the frame with cheap $6 sheet paneling, unfinished side out. Pick out a paneling that has a smooth back. It's light the MDF imo is too heavy.

3. Glue the ppww to the cheap paneling with contact cement. I used the dull side, other have used the glossy my room has total light control so gain was not an issue and I didn't want hot spots. Roll the contact cement out with a roller. Make sure you let the contact cement dry before you attach the pppw to the frame assembly. Have help when you do this you only get one chance to get it straight the contact cement is very unforgiving. 3 people are best 2 at each end start in the center and work out to outside working out any bubbles. Do not attempt to glue to the frame in cold working conditions. 85 degrees F is best the PPPW is very flexible at these temps. I built mine in the summer and let the poly wall sit in the sun for a couple of hours.

4. Hang the screen on the wall.

5. Frame the screen with some type of trim. I found some aluminum roof trim at Menards that slipped perfectly over the frame/paneling/pppw. Painted it with Krylon Ultra flat paint before installing on the frame. I held the trim on with some small metal screws painted flat black.

6. Enjoy your screen you have less then 100 bucks invested in.

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