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post #12571 of 16068
Quote:
Originally Posted by goros View Post

Thanks Keith, you're the man. I ordered enough to replace all my fuses twice, just in case. Hope I never need them.

Good idea. I have 10 spares for 3 amps (not counting the UPA2 I own but don't currently use).
post #12572 of 16068
Quote:
Originally Posted by Theresa View Post

It was price that led me to buy the UMC-1. I was very pleased with the sound once I got it. Looks hardly entered into it, if they had I wouldn't have bought it. I replaced it because of its bugs not looks. I do agree though that the lighting is garish and it is not very good looking IMHO.

For people who have their hardware in the same room as their screen, all these lights must be a nightmare - especially when you can't switch them off, like the big blue power button light on the Emo amps. If those amps were in my viewing room I'd have to tape over the blue lights - some aesthetics then huh? IMO, for HT gear, if a manufacturer wants to festoon the gear with lights, they ought to have a way of turning them off.
post #12573 of 16068
Yes, they were quite a distraction. The Onkyo has a much less intrusive blue light above the knob that doesn't bother me. When I first got the UMC-1 I thought I'd get used to it but instead it wore on me.
post #12574 of 16068
Quote:
Originally Posted by Theresa View Post

Yes, they were quite a distraction. The Onkyo has a much less intrusive blue light above the knob that doesn't bother me. When I first got the UMC-1 I thought I'd get used to it but instead it wore on me.

It would drive me nuts, Theresa. Even if the gear is not in the line of sight, and often it is, the sheer light output of all those LEDs is enough to cast significant light into the room. Just one single red LED on the TV in my bedroom creates enough light for me to see if I need to get to get up in the night! Of course, in the latter circs, my night vision is at its best having been asleep for some time, but you get the point. And if the lights blink or change or do anything that draws even more attention to them, I'd real go nuts! Maybe it's just me
post #12575 of 16068
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Mac View Post

I'm not a fan of the UMC-1s looks either but I bought one anyhow. I'm more interested in how a prepro sounds over how it looks. Interesting concept huh. I believe that is why many others including Theresa bought the UMC-1 as well. So to say it was dumb to buy the UMC-1 because one doesn't like the looks is kind of a harsh statement wouldn't you think?

Bill

+1 well said.
post #12576 of 16068
The blue lights on Emo products don't bother me. The blue light on my Topfield PVR however does bother me. It is much brighter than the Emo lights and stays that way even when it is switched off.

With looks and lights, each to their own I guess.

Dave.
post #12577 of 16068
Quote:
Originally Posted by Theresa View Post

Yes, they were quite a distraction. The Onkyo has a much less intrusive blue light above the knob that doesn't bother me. When I first got the UMC-1 I thought I'd get used to it but instead it wore on me.

Theresa,

The light around the volume knob can be shut off by (page 26, 5508 manual):

Press RECEIVER followed by DIMMER repeatedly
to select:
• Normal + MASTER VOLUME indicator lights.
• Normal + MASTER VOLUME indicator goes off.
• Dim + MASTER VOLUME indicator goes off.
• Dimmer + MASTER VOLUME indicator goes
off.


There is also a Dimmer button on the front panel behind the drop down door. I have always shut off the volume knob light on all the Onkyos I have owned.

Bill
post #12578 of 16068
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Mac View Post

I'm not a fan of the UMC-1s looks either but I bought one anyhow. I'm more interested in how a prepro sounds over how it looks. Interesting concept huh. I believe that is why many others including Theresa bought the UMC-1 as well. So to say it was dumb to buy the UMC-1 because one doesn't like the looks is kind of a harsh statement wouldn't you think?

Bill

I stand by what I said.
If Theresa bought the UMC-1 for the audio quality only that's great, but then why is Theresa whining about the aesthetics?
Seems to me that one makes that decision at the time of the purchase right?
It's sort of like buying a house that you love, knowing that a major airport is just a few hundred feet away at the time of the signing. Then, a month after moving in, you complain about the noise. LMAO.
post #12579 of 16068
Quote:
Originally Posted by suffolk112000 View Post

I stand by what I said.
If Theresa bought the UMC-1 for the audio quality only that’s great, but then why is Theresa whining about the aesthetics?
Seems to me that one makes that decision at the time of the purchase… right?
It's sort of like buying a house that you love, knowing that a major airport is just a few hundred feet away at the time of the signing. Then, a month after moving in, you complain about the noise. LMAO.

Maybe you missed this post from Theresa.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Theresa View Post

It was price that led me to buy the UMC-1. I was very pleased with the sound once I got it. Looks hardly entered into it, if they had I wouldn't have bought it. I replaced it because of its bugs not looks. I do agree though that the lighting is garish and it is not very good looking IMHO.

You can stand by what you said but I still feel its a bit strong, which I'm standing by. Whining? Theresa commented on the looks and on how bright the lights are on the UMC-1. When buying gear online it is difficult to know how it will look until you actually have it in your system. As far as the light brightness that is really hard to know till it is in your system as well. So in your opinion when someone comments on how they do not like the looks of a component they are whining? Sorry but IMO your analogy is really not relative when discussing the looks of a prepro. I never thought of Theresa as dumb or that she was whining but thats just me.

Bill
post #12580 of 16068
Quote:
Originally Posted by suffolk112000 View Post

I stand by what I said.
If Theresa bought the UMC-1 for the audio quality only that’s great, but then why is Theresa whining about the aesthetics?
Seems to me that one makes that decision at the time of the purchase… right?
It's sort of like buying a house that you love, knowing that a major airport is just a few hundred feet away at the time of the signing. Then, a month after moving in, you complain about the noise. LMAO.

She wasn't "whining" about the aesthetics. She just said she thought it was garish - her opinion. It wasn't a dealbreaker or she wouldn’t have bought it. The dealbreaker was the thing didn't work properly! In your analogy, it wasn't the airport that was the problem - it was the fact that the house turned out to have a leaky roof, bad plumbing and the electrics kept failing.
post #12581 of 16068
Don't you hate bittersweet moments when it comes to a/v equipment?

Got the XPA-1's back and that's exactly what I got. On the plus side, I really do love the sound of these puppies. Reference volume sounds so effortless, and they do have quite a low noise floor. Is the noise floor lower than the bridged 5008? I'm not sure. They're both very good in that respect, and undoubtedly better than the P5000S. And the XPA-1's are musical.

I don't know exactly what it is about them but I would have thought that the noise floor aside, they would sound fairly similar to the P5000S which also put out 500wpc @ 8ohms, but while I was listening to music with the P5000S the pas week while the XPA-1's were away, I felt as if there was something a little off. Something that was not quite there. I thought that perhaps it was just the oddities of audio memory, and perhaps mood. But while waiting for the amps to arrive today, I was listening to more music with the P5000S driving the E100's and it still lacked that involvement for me.

The amps finally arrived and I hooked them up and there was aggravation. As I opened the boxes, one of the amps had a note that stated, "Main board faulty. Replaced Main board. Tested and working properly". The other amp had a note that seemed to indicate that they had done nothing to it.

I let the amps sit in the room for a few hours to allow any potential temperature differentials to even out, then carefully plugged everything in as before, and turned them on. Only took 10 seconds for the Right amp to start clicking madly (which is exactly what it did when the Left amp began smoking, which I assume was when the Left amp's trigger output fried).

I immediately shut the amps off and disconnected the Right amp's trigger input (which is daisy chained to the Left amp's trigger output). I tentatively turned the amps on again, and voila. This time, they both stayed on with no problems. After playing some music on the system for a bit, I decided to try reversing the daisy chain to see, if as had been surmised by myself (and the original tech I spoke to on the phone), the Left amp's trigger output was the culprit. So I pulled the mono trigger cable from the Left amp's input and stuck it in the Right amp's input, then daisy chained the Right amp's trigger output to the Left amp's input. Voila, it works just fine in this configuration.

So now I'm pissed. I specifically told the tech what the issue had been and wrote a separate note of each amp's (suspected) problems and included the individual specific notes in each box. After hefting these hernia inducing behemoths to the UPS store and paying $150 to ship both these amps back to Emo, they fixed one amp and didn't fix the other. Brilliant.

And despite being annoyed at the sheer stupidity of this situation, while I was listening to more music while checking to make sure that neither of the amps demonstrated any further problems, I realized that what I had felt was missing while listening to them powered by the P5000S was back. I don't know how to describe it other than simple sheer musicality. Weird. But now I have to ship the Left amp back to Emo AGAIN for the same stupid problem that they didn't fix.


Max
post #12582 of 16068
Quote:
Originally Posted by djbluemax1 View Post

Don't you hate bittersweet moments when it comes to a/v equipment?

Got the XPA-1's back and that's exactly what I got. On the plus side, I really do love the sound of these puppies. Reference volume sounds so effortless, and they do have quite a low noise floor. Is the noise floor lower than the bridged 5008? I'm not sure. They're both very good in that respect, and undoubtedly better than the P5000S. And the XPA-1's are musical.

I don't know exactly what it is about them but I would have thought that the noise floor aside, they would sound fairly similar to the P5000S which also put out 500wpc @ 8ohms, but while I was listening to music with the P5000S the pas week while the XPA-1's were away, I felt as if there was something a little off. Something that was not quite there. I thought that perhaps it was just the oddities of audio memory, and perhaps mood. But while waiting for the amps to arrive today, I was listening to more music with the P5000S driving the E100's and it still lacked that involvement for me.

The amps finally arrived and I hooked them up and there was aggravation. As I opened the boxes, one of the amps had a note that stated, "Main board faulty. Replaced Main board. Tested and working properly". The other amp had a note that seemed to indicate that they had done nothing to it.

I let the amps sit in the room for a few hours to allow any potential temperature differentials to even out, then carefully plugged everything in as before, and turned them on. Only took 10 seconds for the Right amp to start clicking madly (which is exactly what it did when the Left amp began smoking, which I assume was when the Left amp's trigger output fried).

I immediately shut the amps off and disconnected the Right amp's trigger input (which is daisy chained to the Left amp's trigger output). I tentatively turned the amps on again, and voila. This time, they both stayed on with no problems. After playing some music on the system for a bit, I decided to try reversing the daisy chain to see, if as had been surmised by myself (and the original tech I spoke to on the phone), the Left amp's trigger output was the culprit. So I pulled the mono trigger cable from the Left amp's input and stuck it in the Right amp's input, then daisy chained the Right amp's trigger output to the Left amp's input. Voila, it works just fine in this configuration.

So now I'm pissed. I specifically told the tech what the issue had been and wrote a separate note of each amp's (suspected) problems and included the individual specific notes in each box. After hefting these hernia inducing behemoths to the UPS store and paying $150 to ship both these amps back to Emo, they fixed one amp and didn't fix the other. Brilliant.

And despite being annoyed at the sheer stupidity of this situation, while I was listening to more music while checking to make sure that neither of the amps demonstrated any further problems, I realized that what I had felt was missing while listening to them powered by the P5000S was back. I don't know how to describe it other than simple sheer musicality. Weird. But now I have to ship the Left amp back to Emo AGAIN for the same stupid problem that they didn't fix.


Max

How incredibly frustrating for you! This is the sort of thing I expect to happen here in the UK, but I have higher expectations from US companies. The good news is, I guess, that after all the aggro is over and forgotten you will have amps that are so totally satisfying for you to use. IOW, it is worthwhile. Unnecessary but worthwhile. I assume that you will ask Emotiva to pay the return carriage in both directions for the amp they didn't fix - it will be interesting to see if they comply. Do they know we are all watching them like hawks?

One other comment on your post - you said when listening to the other amp that the differences you hear could be, possibly, due to "mood". I think this is so true and often seems to be overlooked. If I am tired, or tetchy for some reason, I often find that my system doesn't sound as smooth and sweet and musical as it usually does. Nothing has been touched, nothing moved or re-set, but suddenly I am hearing 'harsh' or 'not quite right'. After decades of this, I now know that it lies with me and my mood not the system itself. I switch off and go and do something else. When my mood is more elevated, or I am more relaxed or not tired, the system is back to its usual glory. Complex things, humans and AV systems

BTW, it's amazing what a glass of wine can do to improve my system when it's doing this!
post #12583 of 16068
I've said before that lighting some incense and candles makes everything sound more mellow. As for the XPA-1s quality control, its getting harder and harder for me to recommend Emo.
post #12584 of 16068
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

I assume that you will ask Emotiva to pay the return carriage in both directions for the amp they didn't fix - it will be interesting to see if they comply. Do they know we are all watching them like hawks?

Yes, I just sent them an email and plan to call them during business hours later today. I already paid to ship the amp to them once. I don't feel I should have to pay to ship it twice when it was someone's neglect on their end that resulted in one of them not being fixed. They should have fixed it before shipping it back ESPECIALLY when I included a note that explicitly stated what I thought the problem was. As there was no other problem with that amp (it would play just fine, even before I sent it in for repair), I'm inclined to think they never even checked the trigger output circuit.

It would appear that instead, all they did was hook the amps up to some speakers and go, "Yep, this one won't stay on. The other seems to play just fine. We'll fix the one that won't stay on and send 'em both back". I don't think they even bothered checking the trigger output on the amp where I specifically left a note stating that I believed the trigger output had fried as I had seen SMOKE come out the top of the amp.


Max
post #12585 of 16068
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

For people who have their hardware in the same room as their screen, all these lights must be a nightmare - especially when you can't switch them off, like the big blue power button light on the Emo amps. If those amps were in my viewing room I'd have to tape over the blue lights - some aesthetics then huh? IMO, for HT gear, if a manufacturer wants to festoon the gear with lights, they ought to have a way of turning them off.

The lights in my HT (with my 120" screen) do not bother me in the slightest.
post #12586 of 16068
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

It would drive me nuts, Theresa. Even if the gear is not in the line of sight, and often it is, the sheer light output of all those LEDs is enough to cast significant light into the room. Just one single red LED on the TV in my bedroom creates enough light for me to see if I need to get to get up in the night! Of course, in the latter circs, my night vision is at its best having been asleep for some time, but you get the point. And if the lights blink or change or do anything that draws even more attention to them, I'd real go nuts! Maybe it's just me

I even keep a light on in my HT when watching films/playing video games. I detest sitting in the dark.
post #12587 of 16068
I personally love the dark, I get up at 3am and that certainly insures my getting enough of it here in Minnesota. The darker my watching/listening space is, the better it is. The UMC-1 is so bright that it throws shadows in a darkened room.
post #12588 of 16068
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

For people who have their hardware in the same room as their screen, all these lights must be a nightmare - especially when you can't switch them off, like the big blue power button light on the Emo amps. If those amps were in my viewing room I'd have to tape over the blue lights - some aesthetics then huh? IMO, for HT gear, if a manufacturer wants to festoon the gear with lights, they ought to have a way of turning them off.

You can turn off the meters on most Emo amps. That defeats most of the light output.

I don't think the blue power light is bright... and if it's that distracting... easy enough to relocate it.
post #12589 of 16068
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

Good idea. I have 10 spares for 3 amps (not counting the UPA2 I own but don't currently use).

Yeah I have an XPA-5 and 3 UPA-2's, all plugged directly into the wall, but protected with cutler hammer whole house surge protection (CH panel with a CHSPT2Ultra) as well as being on dedicated 20 amp AFCI/GFCI circuit breakers.

My big issue now is that I have the XPA-5 on its own 20amp breaker, and the 3 upa-2's on a second 20amp breaker - but the denon 4311ci doesn't have a time delay option for the 12v triggers...so all 4 amps fire at once and the 3 UPA-2's trip the breaker coming out of standby.

My Integra 40.2 had the ability to delay the 12v triggers by up to 3 seconds each, which kept the breaker from popping (chained the 12v into one upa-2 into the xpa-5, and the 2nd trigger into the 2 remaining upa-2's).

I'd love to see Emotiva come out with a 12v trigger module with time delay options, I'd buy one immediately.
post #12590 of 16068
Quote:
Originally Posted by djbluemax1 View Post

Yes, I just sent them an email and plan to call them during business hours later today. I already paid to ship the amp to them once. I don't feel I should have to pay to ship it twice when it was someone's neglect on their end that resulted in one of them not being fixed. They should have fixed it before shipping it back ESPECIALLY when I included a note that explicitly stated what I thought the problem was. As there was no other problem with that amp (it would play just fine, even before I sent it in for repair), I'm inclined to think they never even checked the trigger output circuit.

It would appear that instead, all they did was hook the amps up to some speakers and go, "Yep, this one won't stay on. The other seems to play just fine. We'll fix the one that won't stay on and send 'em both back". I don't think they even bothered checking the trigger output on the amp where I specifically left a note stating that I believed the trigger output had fried as I had seen SMOKE come out the top of the amp.


Max

Same thing happened to me. Sent in a IPS-1 amp (heavy!) on my dime for an loud, annoying buzz. They sent it back and said nothing was wrong with it. Ended up having to isolate the offending transformer myself with a rubber washer. So much for customer service or technical acumen for that matter.
post #12591 of 16068
So much ouchies with Emotiva service here, do they read this thread at all? It might be nice if they did so they could see what kind of feedback they have been getting lately.

My stuff all works flawlessly and I've never had any issues getting responses back from them.

The only issue I really had was when I ordered my 2 sets of ERD-1's, they "pre-applied" the foam for the mounting plate in the wrong place and I had to request more...
post #12592 of 16068
Quote:
Originally Posted by Theresa View Post

I've said before that lighting some incense and candles makes everything sound more mellow. As for the XPA-1s quality control, its getting harder and harder for me to recommend Emo.

I doubt if Emotiva is any better or worse than any other manufacturer. If you look at any of the threads on here, they are catalogues of problems, faults and failures. It's the nature of forums to attract people with problems I guess. For every Emo user whom you see with a problem there are probably X more (insert your own value for X as we have no way of knowing) who have had faultless performance (me, for example). Onkyo even has special threads devoted to the failures of their AVRs! What is frustrating for Max isn't so much that one of his XPA-1s developed a fault (the other was damaged by the fault in the first one) but that Emotiva did not rectify the fault in the other amp despite having had clear directions from Max and having the unit on their bench for a number of days. If you were only ever going to recommend gear on the basis of it having no known faults, you'd never be able to recommend anything - including your new 5508, which I understand you do like and would therefore, possibly, recommend. But others have had to return 5508s for various fault conditions and, as you have observed, the darn things run so hot you even have to add PC fans to them to make them reliable!
post #12593 of 16068
Quote:
Originally Posted by d_m1010 View Post

I even keep a light on in my HT when watching films/playing video games. I detest sitting in the dark.

The point is it should be your choice. If the manufacturers festoon their gear with bright (and usually pointless) lights they should at least offer a means of turning them all off. If they don't, then it's they who are deciding whether we sit in the dark or in the light cast by their gear. The light doesn't bother you, which is fine. But it definitely bothers me - and if the gear was in the HT room I would have to tape over the lights, which is a ridiculous low-tech solution for such expensive hardware.
post #12594 of 16068
Quote:
Originally Posted by Theresa View Post

I personally love the dark, I get up at 3am and that certainly insures my getting enough of it here in Minnesota. The darker my watching/listening space is, the better it is. The UMC-1 is so bright that it throws shadows in a darkened room.

3am?????
post #12595 of 16068
Quote:
Originally Posted by homeav View Post

You can turn off the meters on most Emo amps. That defeats most of the light output.

I don't think the blue power light is bright... and if it's that distracting... easy enough to relocate it.

I think it is very bright. I shouldn't have to find a solution for it - it should be provided by the manufacturer. On the Emo amps the power button light is *huge*. Why? There is no reason for it to be so big - a small LED would do the job of telling me the amp is under power. Don't get me wrong - I love my amps and the light is certainly no dealbreaker for me (especially as my gear isn't even in the same room as me anyway) - but if the gear was in the room and in my line of sight, the lights would be unacceptable (to me).
post #12596 of 16068
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

I doubt if Emotiva is any better or worse than any other manufacturer. If you look at any of the threads on here, they are catalogues of problems, faults and failures. It's the nature of forums to attract people with problems I guess. For every Emo user whom you see with a problem there are probably X more (insert your own value for X as we have no way of knowing) who have had faultless performance (me, for example). Onkyo even has special threads devoted to the failures of their AVRs! What is frustrating for Max isn't so much that one of his XPA-1s developed a fault (the other was damaged by the fault in the first one) but that Emotiva did not rectify the fault in the other amp despite having had clear directions from Max and having the unit on their bench for a number of days. If you were only ever going to recommend gear on the basis of it having no known faults, you'd never be able to recommend anything - including your new 5508, which I understand you do like and would therefore, possibly, recommend. But others have had to return 5508s for various fault conditions and, as you have observed, the darn things run so hot you even have to add PC fans to them to make them reliable!

The very real problem of REALLY cheap RCA jacks is universal for Emo. That's not to say that other brands don't have just as cheap of jacks. I still recommend Emo amps with the recommendation that you can buy more than one and still save over buying any other brand and they are better than nearly any receiver's amp section.
post #12597 of 16068
Quote:
Originally Posted by goros View Post

Yeah I have an XPA-5 and 3 UPA-2's, all plugged directly into the wall, but protected with cutler hammer whole house surge protection (CH panel with a CHSPT2Ultra) as well as being on dedicated 20 amp AFCI/GFCI circuit breakers.

My big issue now is that I have the XPA-5 on its own 20amp breaker, and the 3 upa-2's on a second 20amp breaker - but the denon 4311ci doesn't have a time delay option for the 12v triggers...so all 4 amps fire at once and the 3 UPA-2's trip the breaker coming out of standby.

My Integra 40.2 had the ability to delay the 12v triggers by up to 3 seconds each, which kept the breaker from popping (chained the 12v into one upa-2 into the xpa-5, and the 2nd trigger into the 2 remaining upa-2's).

I'd love to see Emotiva come out with a 12v trigger module with time delay options, I'd buy one immediately.

Yes I know what you mean there. I have my AVR trigger go into the first UPA-2, from there into the second UPA-2 and from there into the XPA-3 and you're right, they all power on simultaneously. In the UK we have 240 volt power so it doesn't cause an issue that they all come up together but I can see your POV. Can't think of an easy fix to it short of designing a custom circuit for the triggers though.
post #12598 of 16068
Quote:
Originally Posted by Theresa View Post

The very real problem of REALLY cheap RCA jacks is universal for Emo. That's not to say that other brands don't have just as cheap of jacks. I still recommend Emo amps with the recommendation that you can buy more than one and still save over buying any other brand and they are better than nearly any receiver's amp section.

Agreed. And as someone recently pointed out, his very high end, very costly amp also had problems with the RCA jacks. Nothing in life is perfect I guess. Well, 20 year old Lagavulin is, but it's the exception.
post #12599 of 16068
I just cannot see cutting corners with something as important as RCA jacks. I'd be glad to never see one again.
post #12600 of 16068
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

Yes I know what you mean there. I have my AVR trigger go into the first UPA-2, from there into the second UPA-2 and from there into the XPA-3 and you're right, they all power on simultaneously. In the UK we have 240 volt power so it doesn't cause an issue that they all come up together but I can see your POV. Can’t think of an easy fix to it short of designing a custom circuit for the triggers though.

I ended up plugging the third UPA-2 into the same outlet as my APC G5 (which has my IR Blaster and Denon 4311CI) which is a third, dedicated 20amp circuit. No problems with that, because the Denon powers up and takes 2-3 seconds before firing the 12v triggers.

Also, my 4311CI is on Preamp mode, so none of the amps are "on". Supposedly.

Either way, the power drain shouldn't be enough where it would ever trip, even with 185w x2 into the ERD-1's - they're just heights.

I'm annoyed because I wired a double outlet for that amp circuit, and now have 2 spaces instead of 1. Oh well.
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