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Ceiling Projector mounts

post #1 of 21
Thread Starter 
I Just ordered a HD70 and am going to need to mount it on the ceiling and i have been looking at mounts for it.

I saw the post about the DIY mount and thinking of doing that, but the ceiling i have is angled which would cause the projector to tilt to the right and im not sure how on the DIY mount to make it tilt that far.

Also, if i end up getting a different mount that has tilt on it, what is the best way to mount it to the ceiling, because our ceilings are about the same material as drywall.
and im not sure if there are actual boards/studs up there to screw it in to..
Would drywall screws work?
post #2 of 21
Drywall screws into drywall only will not work you need to support a good deal of weight with the projector and mount weight combined and it has to be anchored into the joists in the ceiling, if the location the projector needs to be placed doesn't line up with a joist then you have to construct something to bridge them. It can be done on top of the plaster or if you want to break into the ceiling it can be done behind and then the plaster replaced. There are a lot of support devices that are used for ceiling fans and lighting that may help you also. Then there is the issue of running the cables, in or out of the ceiling.

Do a few searches I have seen many photos of DIY mounts and some on sloped ceilings.
post #3 of 21
Is this a good mount?

Mount
post #4 of 21
I have mine mounted to just the drywall ceiling, but I used 4 toggle bolts. I am using a Chief RPA-U mount and the lens is about 4-5" from the ceiling.
post #5 of 21
I mounted mine straight to the ceiling with dolly bolts. One of them is rated for more weight than the projector and I used four.
post #6 of 21
The HD 70 is a fairly light projector at 6 lbs another 3 to 4 pounds for the mount dependent on the drop tube length and then some cables etc hanging from it. So maybe 10 to 12 pounds total or the weight of a bowling ball. Molly bolts work pretty good at spreading the weight out across the backside of the drywall and the bolts themselves are rated and many times this weight. IMO you shouldn't go by the strength of the bolt in this case but rather the drywall or the drywall install.

I personally don't think of drywall as a structural material it's excellent at covering a surface at a low cost and is a great fire barrier, but I personally don't like to trust it to hold a $1000 projector over my head. If I did secure it this way I think I would run a safety cable over to a joist and secure it into an eye hook.

Is it strong enough this way I'm sure it is. I don't know what code says about how much weight drywall can safely carry I know can-lights and ac ducts hang from it. Code may vary from state to state also.

One of my fears would be when adjusting the mount. You leave them snug but not tight and bump the projector around a bit getting it set.

I guess it's really a personal choice how you do it.
post #7 of 21
Thread Starter 
i was checkign around in my ceiling last night, and where i want to place the projector is right inbetween 2 studs and they are 5-6 feet apart!

i dont want to have a board that long on my ceiling.

If the mount i get/make has a narrow base to screw into the ceiling, i may put a a board on the ceiling and use the drywall type screws for that, just so the weight is spread out a bit more and not all in one spot on the ceiling.
post #8 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by OsiViper View Post

i was checkign around in my ceiling last night, and where i want to place the projector is right inbetween 2 studs and they are 5-6 feet apart!

i dont want to have a board that long on my ceiling.

If the mount i get/make has a narrow base to screw into the ceiling, i may put a a board on the ceiling and use the drywall type screws for that, just so the weight is spread out a bit more and not all in one spot on the ceiling.


Five to Six feet apart deserves about 20 eek smiley faces. -----------

How did you determine the spacing? Do you have a way to get above the ceiling?

Normal construction is 16 inches on center but if your ceiling is trussed they quite often are 24 inches on center. Drywall should never be applied more than 24 inch centers and 16 is much preferred.

This kind of points out my concerns about mounting into drywall. You rarely know just how secure it is and you are placing your trust in this unknown.
post #9 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by bud16415 View Post

Five to Six feet apart deserves about 20 eek smiley faces. -----------

How did you determine the spacing?

Gonna take a wild guess here, but likely "a stud finder"?
post #10 of 21
Thread Starter 
Yea, i used a stud finder on it

I may end up having to get a wall mount for it and just mount it to the wall
post #11 of 21
Just mount it to the drywall. this isn't a CRT we're talking about.
post #12 of 21
Thread Starter 
hmm, ordered my projector.
The weight on the Optoma site says 5.7 lbs. shipping weight is 19lbs? lol
post #13 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by OsiViper View Post

hmm, ordered my projector.
The weight on the Optoma site says 5.7 lbs. shipping weight is 19lbs? lol

One of these molly bolts can hold around 20lbs



Use four of them and your projector isn't going anywhere.
post #14 of 21
Yea, on my old X1 I went into a ceiling joist, but when I got my HD70, I just could make it work to line up with a joist. So, like others, I got drywall anchors rated at 50 lbs each and used for them. I then installed my DIY mount w/o the pj and did some pulling on it. I didn't get silly as I imagine if I really wanted to I could have torn the drywall down, but it was obvious it was plenty secure.

In the month I have had it mounted I have checked several time and now that I have it in the proper place (I think) I take it all down to cut holes for the wiring and I can check the anchors again. But I'll be money they are fine.
post #15 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by bud16415 View Post

The HD 70 is a fairly light projector at 6 lbs another 3 to 4 pounds for the mount dependent on the drop tube length and then some cables etc hanging from it. So maybe 10 to 12 pounds total or the weight of a bowling ball. Molly bolts work pretty good at spreading the weight out across the backside of the drywall and the bolts themselves are rated and many times this weight. IMO you shouldn't go by the strength of the bolt in this case but rather the drywall or the drywall install.

Well you certainly know more about construction then I do, but wouldn't a drywall anchor rated at 50lbs be that rating for use IN drywall? I mean you couldn't rate a drywall anchor at say 100lbs because it was tested in plywood, could you?

Now don't get me wrong, I used four 50lb drywall anchors and do not for a second believe I could hang 200lbs from that mount. But surely it would be more then enough for a 10-12lb PJ/mount....
post #16 of 21
Thread Starter 
yea, but the drywall anchors are ment to go into wall drywall, ceiling might be different, but i dont know for sure
post #17 of 21
the drywall is the same on either the ceiling or the wall, it supports the same not matter what you hang it on sideways,upsidedown,at a angle,, drywall is drywall, IE , not meant to support heavy items directly,,,

why doesn't the OP just get in the ceiling , if possible and build a support between teh joist with some 2x4's and some clamps,,

i wouldn't trust some drywall anchors just directly into drywall , with my projector...

my 2cents tho....
post #18 of 21
There are drywall installations and then there is the OP's drywall install first off. If what he has told us that his joists are 5 to 6 feet apart then by no means should he consider hanging 10 pounds of equipment midway between the joists. In fact I'm surprised if the drywall isn't sagging under its own weight at that span.

Now for the case of normal 16 inch on center construction and molly anchors of the type shown. There are many variations on drywall applications it comes in different thickness and is attached in different manners some is nailed some screwed and some glued in conjunction with screws or nails. Some upscale jobs use 2 layers and some is plaster coated some painted. If you weren't around during construction you could even be dealing with full plaster.

Drywall is basically two layers of thick paper with gypsum filling the gap between and as posted above it is a fairly strong material but that strength comes at a cost and that cost is its extremely brittle once the paper surface is compromised its strength in the area around the cut is greatly lessened. That's why when you mount something into it and give it the tug test as mentioned above it feels very secure. Its not like wood or metal where it will bend and flex before it yields, with drywall its there or its not.

Will 4 anchors hold a projector mount in place with say 10 pounds of weight pulling on it in half inch drywall that has been properly applied? The answer is yes. Is it the best way to recommend doing it? I would have to say no.

Here are a few things that can happen in drywall. If you get unlucky and happen to put two of your four anchors into the joint line of two sheets and they fail the other two are coming down. the gypsum around the drilled hole gets fractured when drilling and tightening the anchors and the paper facing on the back side can get scored depending on the type of anchor used. Etc

Its not a awful method of hanging something people have been hanging plants and swag lights off these things for 50 years now. And most have held fine. But in the case of a very expensive piece of electronics that's warranty isn't going to cover it for falling why not take the little extra effort and secure it into real building structure. If cables are going to be run thru the ceiling you will have to get above it or make a opening anyway. Drywall is not that hard to patch in and you will have the peace of mind knowing its really 10 times over kill.

If you want to go with the anchor method and haven't used them before below is a good read on the types and how to best install them.

http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/i...infanchor.shtm
post #19 of 21
Look at this for $12, i have my HD70 mounted with this mount and it works great e-bay number #220070183809



post #20 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by bud16415 View Post

Its not a awful method of hanging something people have been hanging plants and swag lights off these things for 50 years now. And most have held fine. But in the case of a very expensive piece of electronics that's warranty isn't going to cover it for falling why not take the little extra effort and secure it into real building structure. If cables are going to be run thru the ceiling you will have to get above it or make a opening anyway. Drywall is not that hard to patch in and you will have the peace of mind knowing its really 10 times over kill.

Excellent post and good link.

I would 100% agree with you. Going into ceiling joists is always better. My joists are 16" on Center and planned on going into a joist. But couldn't (tho when I get my new screen material, I might try one more time). And in my case I simply cannot get into the attic above the PJ without cutting a hole into the ceiling. How is that possible you ask when I have only 8' ceiling? When I go up my attic ladder in the garage (next to my media room), the idiot builder hung the furnace above the wall between the garage and what I'm using as a media room. Between the huge furnace and sloped roof line I simply cannot get over there. So how did I run my wiring in the attic? After cutting a small outlet sized hole in my media room ceiling I made a small loop at the end of the cables I needed to run. I then had my son or wife push this cable w/loop up thru the hole and thru the insulation. I'm in the attic standing about 15' away. I used a pole with a hanger on the end to reach over the furnace and hook the look for the wires. I was then able to pull the wires thru and work them around, under the furnace (or I'd attach the wires to the ceiling rafters and go over the furnace).
post #21 of 21
Quote:


Look at this for $12, i have my HD70 mounted with this mount and it works great e-bay number #220070183809

Yeah but shipping for that $12 mount is $20, so really it's $32. For something that probably cost $7-8 tops to ship.
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