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Show me your RACK - Page 38

post #1111 of 1757
12/9/11 at 11:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by dvmiller View Post

Nice work sebberry! I am thinking of using the same shelf clip system. What type of material is the wood? Looks like the sheves are chip board. Are they simply painted? Where did you get the material...HD, Lowes, etc.? Thanks,

Dale

Thanks!

The wood is standard black melamine particle board, probably picked up at Home Depot. My carpenter made it when the kitchen went in.

The shelf clips are pretty sturdy. I did add some double sided tape to the top of the clips to stop the shelf from sliding about.

The shelf supports that run up and down the cabinet are recessed into the wood. You'll need a dado blade on your table saw to cut the channel into the wood. They're screwed through the wood and into the studs on either side of the front of the cabinet.
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post #1112 of 1757
12/9/11 at 11:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by JukeBox360 View Post

Wow. I hate all if you. Hahahaha. JK. JK.

Seriously. You guys have some amazing set ups. Based on the pics I've seen. I can ask what I need to here. Which is. How do you line up the wires? Make em all clean and not messy? There a specific order in a way to start? Example. Line up as you go. Or plug everything in and line up after kinda deal?

I'd really like to take some pics of my set up. But I really need some tips to organizing wires like some of these pics.

Thanks guys!

The wires that you can cut to custom length are the easiest. Speaker wire, ethernet wire, coax, etc.. are all easy to make the proper length if you have the right tools.

Because you can't make HDMI cables to length, it's best to have a selection of 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 foot cables around so you can pick the closest length.
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post #1113 of 1757
12/20/11 at 7:00am
Going to be building my own rack in closet and had a couple of questions:

The space is a double opening under a stair and only a third of the space will be used for equip and wiring (5' h x 28" w x 44" d is the volume for av). I want to build the rack so it fits the door frame (28" w) and then trim it and have opposing swing doors on each opening. I plan to build the rack with partial open sides and air space above each piece. The door on the av side will have a mesh or glass panel for IR signal.

Will 3/4" mdf be strong enough for the shelves without sag or should I use 3/4" ply? I plan to route channels and then simply glue joints.

Given the total volume of the space, and openness of the rack, do you think I will need to include fans for venting?

If I use dark glass on the door panel, will I have any issue with IR signals getting to appropriate piece?
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post #1114 of 1757
12/20/11 at 8:39am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Van G View Post

Going to be building my own rack in closet and had a couple of questions:

The space is a double opening under a stair and only a third of the space will be used for equip and wiring (5' h x 28" w x 44" d is the volume for av). I want to build the rack so it fits the door frame (28" w) and then trim it and have opposing swing doors on each opening. I plan to build the rack with partial open sides and air space above each piece. The door on the av side will have a mesh or glass panel for IR signal.

Will 3/4" mdf be strong enough for the shelves without sag or should I use 3/4" ply? I plan to route channels and then simply glue joints.

Given the total volume of the space, and openness of the rack, do you think I will need to include fans for venting?

If I use dark glass on the door panel, will I have any issue with IR signals getting to appropriate piece?

I used mdf for my shelving and i have an 80 pound receiver and all is good
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post #1115 of 1757
12/20/11 at 11:17pm
looking good keep'em coming
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post #1116 of 1757
12/22/11 at 4:22pm
I searched around, but didn't come across the answer I was looking for so I'm posting here. I've seen reference to people using fans and having cooling for their Component Rack and I wasn't sure how important this was. In the past I have had just a regular tv stand with my dvd player and xbox behind the glass. Since I'm doing my first HT setup I wanted to make sure I'm not going to damage my components. I was going to buy http://www.rcwilley.com/Furniture/Li...Stand-View.jsp because I have very limit space and this would fit in the area I have. The components I would have are a blu-ray player, cable DVR, xbox 360 and my surround sound receiver. Does any know if I'll be ok just placing them in this stand or do I need to find some other option. I saw lots of stands that were open to the air, but I had thought something like this would be better at keeping the dust off. Any help would be great. Thanks
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post #1117 of 1757
12/22/11 at 9:06pm
Have any DIY builders used 'posts' as opposed to solid sides for air circulation? On a 24" deep cabinet, I would have 4" posts (front and back) and then another 4" in the middle. Looking at the side you would see 3 vertical supports with 6" gap between them.

Also plan to put a 2" corner on the back for mounting cable organizer (laces?).
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post #1118 of 1757
12/23/11 at 1:38am
look at the longest item you plan to house in your rack then add 500-750 mm for ventilation and wire management with the addition of couter weights.

van that cab looks nice though I would suggest mid atlantic rack..

that cab looks like a bookshelf that was fashioned into av storage closet..


how many items require a network connection...
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post #1119 of 1757
12/23/11 at 6:35am
Quote:
Originally Posted by zergman View Post

I searched around, but didn't come across the answer I was looking for so I'm posting here. I've seen reference to people using fans and having cooling for their Component Rack and I wasn't sure how important this was. In the past I have had just a regular tv stand with my dvd player and xbox behind the glass. Since I'm doing my first HT setup I wanted to make sure I'm not going to damage my components. I was going to buy http://www.rcwilley.com/Furniture/Li...Stand-View.jsp because I have very limit space and this would fit in the area I have. The components I would have are a blu-ray player, cable DVR, xbox 360 and my surround sound receiver. Does any know if I'll be ok just placing them in this stand or do I need to find some other option. I saw lots of stands that were open to the air, but I had thought something like this would be better at keeping the dust off. Any help would be great. Thanks

IMHO, you don't have to worry about heat as long as your AVR will have some breathing room above it. The cabinet isn't really sealed (open back and seams in the front) so you will get some air circulation through those spaces by the temp difference.

In terms of less dust, I don't think you'll see a big difference between open cabinet and that one. I would be more concerned that you can access to clean out the dust. As long as you can get a hand in there you'll be good.
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post #1120 of 1757
12/23/11 at 6:42am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mystic_sniper28 View Post

look at the longest item you plan to house in your rack then add 500-750 mm for ventilation and wire management with the addition of couter weights.

van that cab looks nice though I would suggest mid atlantic rack..

that cab looks like a bookshelf that was fashioned into av storage closet..


how many items require a network connection...

I think this was directed at me...

Deepest item I have is Emo UPA-7 which is 24 1/2" deep. I was going to put this on top or the bottom and keep the cabinet at 24"

I wold like to stay away from mid atlantic and the $700 expense and build something custom (perfect fit) with the MDF and Ply I already have. Probably 4 hrs work to put this together and paint.

"that cab looks like a bookshelf that was fashioned into av storage closet.."
- don't quite understand that point?

Only 4 Cat6 connections on the rack, the rest will be on the wall behind it where I'm doing patch and networking equipment.
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post #1121 of 1757
12/23/11 at 8:24am
mdf warps like crazy at that distance with heavy equipment like avr's, processors, power amps, players consoles, pvr's, htpc'sand so forth.

going with a mid atlantic rack atleas rack mount everything including network switch..
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post #1122 of 1757
12/23/11 at 8:30am
Looking for comments on Middle Atlantic AXS systems.......

Any takers?
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post #1123 of 1757
12/23/11 at 8:34am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mystic_sniper28 View Post

mdf warps like crazy at that distance with heavy equipment like avr's, processors, power amps, players consoles, pvr's, htpc'sand so forth.

going with a mid atlantic rack atleas rack mount everything including network switch..

3/4 MDF warps across a 20" span? What about 3/4 ply?

I could put one or two 1" braces across the span to beef it up.

Want to stay away from steel racks due to cost, plus I'll be building a couple pull out drawers into the rack.
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post #1124 of 1757
12/23/11 at 9:29am
If looking for Middle Atlantic rack, and you have the luxury of waiting, check craigslist and local eBay often. I live in a midsize city, and I see one about every month. Also, look for parts.

And, MA is one of many rack manufacturers. Many budget options available. MA is the BMW of racks. Look for ones made in the U.S.
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post #1125 of 1757
12/23/11 at 9:33am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post

If looking for Middle Atlantic rack, and you have the luxury of waiting, check craigslist and local eBay often. I live in a midsize city, and I see one about every month. Also, look for parts.

And, MA is one of many rack manufacturers.

I'm a professional CL hunter but a build fits this project better given the dimensions and need for drawers.

I'll be surprised if MDF or ply sags over such a short distance, particularly since the weight points are close the edge.

Perhaps it's time I started a build thread
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post #1126 of 1757
12/23/11 at 10:02am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Van G View Post

IMHO, you don't have to worry about heat as long as your AVR will have some breathing room above it. The cabinet isn't really sealed (open back and seams in the front) so you will get some air circulation through those spaces by the temp difference.

In terms of less dust, I don't think you'll see a big difference between open cabinet and that one. I would be more concerned that you can access to clean out the dust. As long as you can get a hand in there you'll be good.

Sorry I'm a noob, whats an AVR? Is that my surround sound receiver?
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post #1127 of 1757
12/23/11 at 10:07am
Quote:
Originally Posted by zergman View Post

Sorry I'm a noob, whats an AVR? Is that my surround sound receiver?

Yes: Audio Video Receiver
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post #1128 of 1757
12/23/11 at 10:07am
Quote:
Originally Posted by zergman View Post

Sorry I'm a noob, whats an AVR? Is that my surround sound receiver?

Audio Video Receiver.



As for sag - Are there different qualities of MDF? I have one MDF shelf in the bedroom and it does sag in the middle. But then again the supports are 4' apart.

My AV shelves are black melamine particle board and have zero sag from what I can tell. They're supported in all 4 corners.
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post #1129 of 1757
12/23/11 at 10:37am
I have several beige APC Netshelters, some with sides and some without, just sitting in our computer room. We recently moved all our computer to a managed hosting service. PM me if your interested.
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post #1130 of 1757
12/24/11 at 3:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Van G View Post

Deepest item I have is Emo UPA-7 which is 24 1/2" deep. I was going to put this on top or the bottom and keep the cabinet at 24"

you are definitely going to have an airflow problem. Your UPA-7 is still in the box!!

Actual "unboxed" dimensions are less than 20" but be sure to take RCAs and bananas into account.
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post #1131 of 1757
12/24/11 at 4:30pm
for venting and wiring I would recommend a rack atleast 10-20" bigger to allow for airflow and cable management..

though it's up to you what you finally decide to do..
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post #1132 of 1757
12/24/11 at 5:27pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mystic_sniper28 View Post

for venting and wiring I would recommend a rack atleast 10-20" bigger to allow for airflow and cable management..

though it's up to you what you finally decide to do..

So... no ply or mdf? Also need to allow for 10-20" or is it 20-25" as you recommended before? Want to make sure I get this right...
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post #1133 of 1757
12/24/11 at 6:01pm
if using a shelving unit with some type of wood shelf i would say 20-25" gap..

if using a rack allow 10-20" behind the deepest unit you plan to house in the rack..

using the rack method you only require 2-3 shelves for consoles and pay tv stu (assuming it isn't rackable) the remaining geat will be screwed into the rack..
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post #1134 of 1757
12/25/11 at 6:42am
Quote:
Originally Posted by pauleyc View Post


you are definitely going to have an airflow problem. Your UPA-7 is still in the box!!

Actual "unboxed" dimensions are less than 20" but be sure to take RCAs and bananas into account.

I thought it sounded better in the box!

You got me there, I pulled the wrong numbers off the Emo site.

The good new is I can build a 20" deep rack again!
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post #1135 of 1757
12/25/11 at 4:14pm
for the sake of argument there Van, 20" with plugs in the back, working back from that 10-20" a. air flow, b. cable management.

I still think racking stuff is going to be the better solution than having gear sit on a shelving unit you buy..
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post #1136 of 1757
12/25/11 at 7:31pm
Mystic, not sure if you have confused me but I'm building a custom rack in a closet space under a staircase. About 36" behind a 20" deep rack. The rack area represents 30% of the closet volume.
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post #1137 of 1757
12/25/11 at 9:33pm
ok great
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post #1138 of 1757
1/3/12 at 3:17pm
I just scored an old Stantron SF2007830 off of CL for $50 and I'd like to use it to rack my AV stuff.

Can I use Middle Atlantic parts (metal shelves, custom faces, spacers, etc) or is MA proprietary?

Thanks,
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post #1139 of 1757
1/3/12 at 4:56pm
Just a question that had never occurred to me...if your rack is outside of the theater room, is it still possible to play on the Xbox?
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post #1140 of 1757
1/3/12 at 10:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post

Just a question that had never occurred to me...if your rack is outside of the theater room, is it still possible to play on the Xbox?

Depends how far for connections like Kinect but just playing with std wireless controllers should be fine (Bluetooth like PS3?). If you are into gaming then you'll want the new interfaces coming down the line so maybe just run HDMI and Cat6 in the room by the TV and have the Xbox in the room.
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