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Show me your RACK - Page 42

post #1231 of 2100
http://http://www.avsforum.com/avs-v....php?t=1394657

Scroll down to post 19
Also I took off the trim pieces so it would not stick out as far.
post #1232 of 2100
Just remembered that I should post this now that I've got a decent finished picture...



Middle Atlantic AXS-20, in a 32U height. MA RSH shelves and faceplates, MA power/light bar at top. If you're unfamiliar with the pull-out AX-S racks, here's a side-view with the rack extended on the service track and stand:



Jeff
post #1233 of 2100
Beautiful rack, Jeff. Perfection.
post #1234 of 2100
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post

Beautiful rack, Jeff. Perfection.

Thanks, and now you can't bug me about those trim strips!

I really am surprised at how much of a difference they made in the final look. I had them sitting here for 6 months, and when I went to actually install them, had no hardware. Dealer sent me the washer/cap/screw pack without issue, and I finally got around to putting them on.

Now if I would just spend some serious time on the iRule remote, I could really call this thing done-done...

Jeff
post #1235 of 2100
Jeff, is that an Emotiva rack-mounted amp, used with rack ears, and MA trim strips?

Or is it the MA Emotiva RSH?
post #1236 of 2100
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post

Jeff, is that an Emotiva rack-mounted amp, used with rack ears, and MA trim strips? Or is it the MA Emotiva RSH?

Middle Atlantic RSH4A Emotiva UPA7. At 21" deep, it protrudes out the back of the 20" rack by an inch, which is why it's positioned above the drawer (to clear the cable management tray when closed). That sucker took 3 of us to get into place...

IIRC from reading the Emotiva forums, the amp isn't exactly an even "U" high, so it would leave a gap if you used the rack ears instead of the shelf. (someone correct me if I'm wrong about that)

And I got replacement black trim strips for the amp from Emotiva, as they come stock in silver. Obviously we can't have that, now, can we?

Jeff
post #1237 of 2100
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pain Infliction View Post

http://http://www.avsforum.com/avs-v....php?t=1394657

Scroll down to post 19
Also I took off the trim pieces so it would not stick out as far.

Had some trouble opening that link, but eventually got it.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1394657



I guess jautor's RSH solves the Emotiva trim strip problem, somehow?

Can the Emotiva rack ears be positioned behind the front rails, using longer screws and bolts?



post #1238 of 2100
The decorative Emotiva trim pieces didn't get in the way of the MA trim strip at all. But I see looking at their site that the rack ears are quite thick on the rail side. Compare that thickness with any other rack ear design. Not sure what they were thinking there.

And as the ears are already $50, you're halfway to a custom RSH anyway...

Jeff
post #1239 of 2100
Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

Thanks, and now you can't bug me about those trim strips!

I really am surprised at how much of a difference they made in the final look. I had them sitting here for 6 months, and when I went to actually install them, had no hardware. Dealer sent me the washer/cap/screw pack without issue, and I finally got around to putting them on.

Now if I would just spend some serious time on the iRule remote, I could really call this thing done-done...

Jeff

Jeff,

Very nice looking rack. I also agree that the black Emotiva trim pieces look better with your setup.

How are the M/A trim strips attached and are they something that can be removed and re-attached with ease without distorting them?
I ask because in the 2 years I have had my rack, I have moved things around at least 4 times. I would like to add the trim strips, but am a little hesitant to do so if installing and removing them is going to "wear them out" before I get my configuration closer to a finalized state.
post #1240 of 2100
They are held on with two screws and can be removed many times without any problems. Just go slow so you dont scratch them is really the only issue.
post #1241 of 2100
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pain Infliction View Post

They are held on with two screws and can be removed many times without any problems. Just go slow so you dont scratch them is really the only issue.

Good to hear.

Thanks!
post #1242 of 2100
Yeah, they "snap" on over washers you place on some of the screws. I will say those strips don't go on or come off "easy", as it's a rigid metal piece, not a flexible plastic/rubber strip. But they can certainly be removed, and yes, go slow so you don't damage it - bending it too far to create a ripple would mean getting a new one.

Jeff
post #1243 of 2100
Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

Yeah, they "snap" on over washers you place on some of the screws. I will say those strips don't go on or come off "easy", as it's a rigid metal piece, not a flexible plastic/rubber strip. But they can certainly be removed, and yes, go slow so you don't damage it - bending it too far to create a ripple would mean getting a new one.

Jeff

Interesting. I had assumed that they were plastic or composite strips and not rigid aluminum pieces.
Thanks for the info guys.
post #1244 of 2100
Oops. I thought you were asking something else.
post #1245 of 2100
Quote:
Originally Posted by mystic_sniper28 View Post

I find the smallest footprint you can go may not always be prudent to use given you will be needing some form of cooling requirements within the cabinet having zippo space for cable management can lead too poor air flow.. if you live in an area that routinely sees 110+ in the shade heat is going to play a big part in your setup..

Quote:
Originally Posted by megathunderchief View Post

Yeah, I looked at the 20" deep ERK models for about 2 minutes before I realized my Onkyo is about 18.5" deep. Not much room left over and I want to be able to close the rear door and feed cables out through a grommeted knockout for tidiness.

I plan on mounting a quiet fan panel on a configurable rear door pulling air from a vented base and seeing how that handles the temperature. If it can't cut it, I may have to go with something that moves more CFM and deal with the added noise. The deepest pieces of gear I have are the Emotivas, but they're also the simplest to manage cable-wise. Ideally, I'd always like to have more room to work, but I think I can make do with a minimum 6" of clearance.

I use a 20" deep ERK rack. Knowing the depth restriction, I just choose <16" shallow chassis components. With the receiver & one source on, the rack temp is 79F/80F. With the receiver & all sources on( which seldom happens ), the rack temp is 83F.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Brent A View Post

Jeff,

Very nice looking rack. I also agree that the black Emotiva trim pieces look better with your setup.

How are the M/A trim strips attached and are they something that can be removed and re-attached with ease without distorting them?
I ask because in the 2 years I have had my rack, I have moved things around at least 4 times. I would like to add the trim strips, but am a little hesitant to do so if installing and removing them is going to "wear them out" before I get my configuration closer to a finalized state.

I've removed my rack strips over 30 times, no signs of wearing out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

Yeah, they "snap" on over washers you place on some of the screws. I will say those strips don't go on or come off "easy", as it's a rigid metal piece, not a flexible plastic/rubber strip. But they can certainly be removed, and yes, go slow so you don't damage it - bending it too far to create a ripple would mean getting a new one.

Jeff

Ditto! They eventually start going on & coming off easier, as the edges of the plastic snap washers smooth out.


Photo Updates from: http://www.blu-ray.com/community/gal...&folderid=3106










post #1246 of 2100
DAMN IT!!!!

Why did I open this thread! Those racks all look so killer! Now I want to spend...........AGAIN! I hate you AVS
post #1247 of 2100








post #1248 of 2100
ccleanest rack i ever seen
post #1249 of 2100
Mmmmmmm, rack porn.
post #1250 of 2100
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post

Mmmmmmm, rack porn.

The back of my rack goes under the "Amateur" category, then...

Hey, some people are into that!
post #1251 of 2100
hehe

BrittonYoder, you need a heat gun.
post #1252 of 2100
I have one, I was just waiting until all the terminations are fully tested that way the heat shrink will end up with identical spacing.
post #1253 of 2100
Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

The back of my rack goes under the "Amateur" category, then...

Hey, some people are into that!

I love the pull out rack option and might need that solution, what kind of cost do you have involved in building that rack?
post #1254 of 2100
depends on what weight you intend to install in the rack, 3 types 1.draw slide, 2. caster, 3. combo of drawslide and caster...
post #1255 of 2100
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbraden32 View Post

I love the pull out rack option and might need that solution, what kind of cost do you have involved in building that rack?

Middle Atlantic has two styles of pull-out racks, the AX-S (which is the one I have), and the AX-SXR which pulls out and rotates.

Neither is cheap, but they are designed and built very well. You can look up the parts from various sellers. The cost is the same (there may be two 'tiers') for any rack U height. The killer is the service track and the service stand, both required components, which list for as much as the rack itself.

http://www.middleatlantic.com/enclosure/roll/axsm.htm

With some good luck and careful shopping (and eBay scanning for bits and pieces), I spent ~$1500 on all the rack pieces you see in the picture(s). That includes the drawer, light bar/power strip, the shelves, custom faceplates, service track and stand, etc. "List price" on that stack is around $2500.

I'd suggest the 50" pull-out instead of the 25". Will make it much easier to work on if you have a lot of equipment in the rack. I don't mind it, and was concerned that I didn't have the depth to hold the longer cable tray and was afraid the 50" track would run into my bar table. It wouldn't have, but I couldn't walk in front of it, and have to go around the long way to get to the side of the rack when extended. Not what I would want to do...

The rotating version is something I would consider, too, if I was starting over.

Jeff
post #1256 of 2100
^Thanks Jeff.
post #1257 of 2100
Anyone running Kinect off of their XBox 360? I have about 25-30 ft range between where my rack is and where the Kinect should go (in front of or on top of the tv) so I'm wandering how any of you guys have done it if the cable that came with the Kinect isn't long enough which is my dilema... anyone?
post #1258 of 2100
Monoprice is your friend...
post #1259 of 2100
Yeah, grab a USB 2.0 active extension cable from them. You can actually find them cheaper on Amazon if you're a Prime member.

EDIT: If you bought the Kinect bundle (the one that comes with a console), you also need to grab a power adapter that allows you to plug the Kinect into the wall for power and a USB port. I got an off brand one on Amazon for 4 bucks.
post #1260 of 2100
I'm guessing the USB 2.0 is not a standard usb style because the kinect's cable is not standard from what I could tell. The connector on the end looked slightly different.

I DID buy the bundle but my kinect does not have a power supply... is that normal?

Thanks for the monoprice link... I'm gonna go with that.
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