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Show me your RACK - Page 49

post #1441 of 2096
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryceo View Post

need help to design my rack where should i mount componets in the rack and should i run cooling fans for every thing or just one or 2 pushing air in and one sucking air out?

If you have anenclosed rack like mine, I'm put the amplifier(s) at the top. If you don't use amps, put the AVR at the top, and if you want cooling fans, you can put a pair at the top and at the bottom in a push-pull setup, venting hot air at the top and drawing cool air in below. Some racks like MA and Sanus have 3U fan mounting plates at the top and bottom of the rack so youdon't have to take up component space with fans.

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post #1442 of 2096
Have you got any pics of the sanus rack mounted components.(Front & Back).
post #1443 of 2096
Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasmakris View Post

Have you got any pics of the sanus rack mounted components.(Front & Back).

sent them in PM.

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post #1444 of 2096
Thanks for the pics.
Im looking into getting a rack from Pro Audio Stash.co.uk.
Please take a look.
post #1445 of 2096
GlassWolf: Can't quite tell from the pics--do you have custom faceplates for your components, or do the shelves adjust such that there isn't much gap in between each component and the blanking plate/adjacent shelf? Did you get away with not adding too many accessories from what came with the rack? It looks really good.

I'm looking at the Sanus CFR2127 and wondering how I might set it up so I have good airflow and there are no "short circuits" in the convection. Do the Middle Atlantic RSH plates work in these Sanus racks? And I may have missed it (have been looking at lots of racks), but do you have any fans in there and if so, how are they set up?
post #1446 of 2096
Rack faceplates are pretty generic, that's sort of the point of rack mount standards. The finishes can differ between vendors, of course, but sizes are going to be standard.

From that one picture I can see gaps between some of the gear. I can see what looks to be dust on the tops of two components.

Unless you're planning on stuffing the rack chock-full of gear I'm not sure I'd get too worried about interrupting convection. Heat will rise, you just want to avoid putting something that's going to crank out a lot of it from being directly under something that will suffer from it. Or leave some space to allow the heat to dissipate somewhat.
post #1447 of 2096
I have the CFR2136. I just used what came with the rack, nothing added except the 1U power conditioner from Sanus.
The blank plates are included, and I diid not modify them. There are some gaps, but I wasn't that worried about it. If I wanted everything flush mounted, I'd order some additional blanking plates, and cut openings in them for each component, and place them over top of the shelves, but I didn't really feel like going through the effort for something that'll be hidden most of the time anyway.

If you want cooling, just get the EcoSystem controller from Sanus that gives you 5V and 12V outputs, then use their 3U silent fan plates. place one in the bottom of the case, and one at the top controlled by the EcoSystem controller. That would also allow for work lights and rack lights to be controlled as well. You can download a schematic of the Sanus racks from their website at sanus.com
The rack has a 3U opening in the back that can be put at the top or bottom of the case (mine is at the bottom where the speaker cables are going out) as well as a 3U opening in the top of the rack case, and one in the bottom. This, in addition to having 36U worth of space in the front for fan plates gives plenty of cooling options.

3U opening at bottom rear of rack. This 3U opening plate can be relocated to the top of the rear as well.
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This is the Sanus power conditioner that displays voltage, current draw, etc, and has two 3-LED pull-out lights and 11 outlets in the back as well as one switched outlet in front
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both side panels and the rear panel are removable, without the need for any tools. the rear panel also locks, and locks for the side panels as well are optional. The front door can be removed with two slide pins, after removing the grounding strap, and can be reversed to open from the opposite side, or just left off entirely. The front door latch also locks.
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again, sorry for the mess of cables. This setup is temporary, and everything is coming back out when I get the money together to do some remodeling and put this rack in the wall, and drywall and frame up around it. This is also going to require me to do a lot of re-wiring in the room for the speaker plates etc so I just have this set up for now so it 'works.'
post #1448 of 2096
Can someone tell me if the faceplates are just faceplates or do they come part of the shelf.
I don't want to buy shelves later to find out that the faceplates are part of the shelf.
Thanks
post #1449 of 2096
Here are pictures of my rack, I have a bench for common components and a rack of power amplifiers.

You can read more about my home Thater here, http://www.avsforum.com/t/1416004/bef-from-norway-and-my-avworld-diy-system-with-44-000-watt#post_22140619

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post #1450 of 2096
Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasmakris View Post

Can someone tell me if the faceplates are just faceplates or do they come part of the shelf.
I don't want to buy shelves later to find out that the faceplates are part of the shelf.
Thanks

the blanking plates are just cover plates to cover spaces not filled by the shelves. They are not connected, nor does one support the other in any way.
You can get the ventilated shelves in any size from 1U to 4U, blanking/cover plates in the same sizes, and Sanus also offers sliding drawers in, I believe, 3U and 4O that can hold DVDs and CDs, spare cables, etc...
Their website, sanus.com under "racks" has a whole list of accessories and options.
post #1451 of 2096
Hi Glasswolf,
Thanks for the reply.
On the Middle Atlantic website you can get faceplates for the xbox slim ect.
Are these part of the shelf or are they separate.
post #1452 of 2096
If you're looking at the RSH custom shelves, I believe you're buying the whole shelf and plate together.
http://www.middleatlantic.com/rsh/rshcus2.htm
Edited by GlassWolf - 6/18/12 at 6:52am
post #1453 of 2096
Thanks for the additional pictures, GlassWolf! Very helpful.

I have a Marantz SR8001 AVR that takes a 5U RSH shelf/faceplate. Would that AVR cause a problem on the included Sanus 3U ventilated shelf? It looks like your Adcom amp is on a 2U shelf so it looks OK, but I wanted to ask.
post #1454 of 2096
Quote:
Originally Posted by BEF-NO View Post

Here are pictures of my rack, I have a bench for common components and a rack of power amplifiers.
You can read more about my home Thater here, http://www.avsforum.com/t/1416004/bef-from-norway-and-my-avworld-diy-system-with-44-000-watt#post_22140619
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Looking good mate
post #1455 of 2096
My Adcom GFA-555II is on a 3U shelf, designed to support 50lbs if I recall. Your AVR without the custom face plate would be a 4U shelf unit I believe, but to surround the AVR and make it flush in the blanking plate you need that extra 1U.
IU noticed this when I looked at their specs for a few of my other items in my rack:
Toshiba W808 S-VHS = 3U
DirecTV HR24 DVR = 2U
Panasonic DMP-DB55K BD player = 2U
those specs are all +1U over the space they require in my rack now, without a flush mount plate surrounding their face plates. I may get some for those 3 items, but my LD player, CD carousel, tape deck, amp, and AVR are all nearly the width of the rack, and are nearlr the proper height to fill in the opening without a blanking plate cut to go around them and take more space. Pluse, the Adcom has it's own rack mount flanges I picked up from eBay so those I'm jsut going to leave on the shelves by themselves.
Things like an Xbox though, I can see wanting to fill in the gaps!
post #1456 of 2096
Thank you kindly I've decied I'll keep my origanl wall unit and just rack all my gear up in that
And add some cooling fans to that to drag out the hot air
??
post #1457 of 2096
Can someone help me please.
I want to run sky hd over cat 5.I understand that I need hdmi to cat 5 transmitter to cat 5 receiver.
But can I put the hdmi to cat 5 cables into my network switch and then run from the switch to different parts of the house with receivers at the other end,or has it got to be direct to the receiver ?
Thanks
post #1458 of 2096
Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasmakris View Post

Can someone help me please.
I want to run sky hd over cat 5.I understand that I need hdmi to cat 5 transmitter to cat 5 receiver.
But can I put the hdmi to cat 5 cables into my network switch and then run from the switch to different parts of the house with receivers at the other end,or has it got to be direct to the receiver ?
Thanks

No, you can't route HDMI over Cat5 signals through your network switch.
The Home A/V Distribution forum might have more information about this smile.gif
post #1459 of 2096
Quote:
Originally Posted by sebberry View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasmakris View Post

Can someone help me please.
I want to run sky hd over cat 5.I understand that I need hdmi to cat 5 transmitter to cat 5 receiver.
But can I put the hdmi to cat 5 cables into my network switch and then run from the switch to different parts of the house with receivers at the other end,or has it got to be direct to the receiver ?
Thanks

No, you can't route HDMI over Cat5 signals through your network switch.
The Home A/V Distribution forum might have more information about this smile.gif

you could consider useing HDbase T CAT transceivers to send HDMI signal, they have ports for ethernet: so you could accomplish the same or similar thing: they work quite well to deliver HD over HDMI and ethernet to distant rooms
post #1460 of 2096
Quote:
Originally Posted by markrubin View Post

you could consider useing HDbase T CAT transceivers to send HDMI signal, they have ports for ethernet: so you could accomplish the same or similar thing: they work quite well to deliver HD over HDMI and ethernet to distant rooms

Is the HDBase any good as i have never sent a signal over cat 5 and it is not cheap either.Is it HDMI quality ?
Is there another way of sending picture over 20 meters away apart from costly hdmi ?
post #1461 of 2096
Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasmakris View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by markrubin View Post

you could consider useing HDbase T CAT transceivers to send HDMI signal, they have ports for ethernet: so you could accomplish the same or similar thing: they work quite well to deliver HD over HDMI and ethernet to distant rooms

Is the HDBase any good as i have never sent a signal over cat 5 and it is not cheap either.Is it HDMI quality ?
Is there another way of sending picture over 20 meters away apart from costly hdmi ?

I am using several HDbase baluns and they work quite well: yes they are expensive

other lesser options are non HDbase HDMI baluns or component video: not sure you would be satisfied with either alternative
post #1462 of 2096
My ULTRA CHEAP DIY Rack -

-Shelves are made of plywood left over other projects
-black Glidden Eggshell Interior latex paint used was left at the house when I bought it in Jan.
-most moldings were left over from other projects
-so far, from what I can tell there's no need for a fan or cooling b/c of the racks open space back and its in a very well air-conditioned basement


Total Cost making the rack so far: approx $50 after tax (12 shelf brackets @ $2.88 a piece + 1 piece molding @ $8.98)
Add another $20-$30 for metal for the faceplates and hardware for wire hiding

Preliminary pics... still need to make custom faceplates and organize wires. I could tell you how I am going to do it but I dont want to ruin talking about my future pics and/or give you guys any preconceived notions about how I plan to. I'm also thinking about putting a glass door of some kind on it as long as it is completely non-reflective. Opinions on glass doors???

Sorry for the ****** PQ

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Edited by ten8yp - 7/13/12 at 2:13pm
post #1463 of 2096
Looking good.
post #1464 of 2096
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryceo View Post

Looking good mate
Thank you!
post #1465 of 2096









My home theatre Middle Atlantic rack

From top to bottom:
Furman PL-Plus DMC power conditioner
ProCool 4 fan rack
PS3 Slim
USB patch panel
Xbox 360
Oppo BDP-93
Media holder
Marantz AV7005
1U drawer
4U drawer
Furman PL-Plus DMC power conditioner
Emotiva XPA 3
Emotiva XPA 2

Back of the rack includes:
Behringer EP4000 (powers DIY sub in another part of the house)
URC MRF-350 base station
URC RFX-250 RF sensor
Dynex gigabit ethernet switch
4 port powered USB hub (x2)
USB patch panel
Digi Media 4 port HDMI distribution amplifier
Bell HD satellite receiver
WD 1 terabyte HD
Hammond rackmount power strip
Edited by corock - 7/24/12 at 11:40am
post #1466 of 2096
I certainly will not said Veronica Rabbit. eek.gif
Edited by 49Merc - 7/23/12 at 11:06pm
post #1467 of 2096
Quote:
Originally Posted by kezug View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by swifty7;10527924 



Every time I review this thread for rack ideas, I cant help but stop and stare at these racks. If I am not careful, I will be building boobies on my wall instead of a system rack!

I wonder if these girls even know that they have been the higlight of a stickied thread on this forum? Original post was in 2007. smile.gif
post #1468 of 2096
Quote:
Originally Posted by corock View Post


Is that the MA 26" deep Slim5, 5-43-26?
post #1469 of 2096
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post

Is that the MA 26" deep Slim5, 5-43-26?

Yes, that's the rack
post #1470 of 2096
These look great. Where did you get your faceplates? I'm about to fill mine up.
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