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Show me your RACK - Page 55

post #1621 of 1757
Quote:
Originally Posted by LeBon View Post

The new Slim 5 racks have knockouts in the top for fans.

I thought so but was not sure. My rack must be an older one and I bought it off of craigslist.
post #1622 of 1757
So I'm just starting to look around to find out what is out there for A/V racks, I don't have the dedicated room yet, a little ways away from that, but when the time comes I want to be well researched.
I saw some of the links above, specifically http://www.customavrack.com/ for audio video racks...are there other well known or well respected places to shop for a/v racks?

Also a noob question, how do the racks work with the various sizes of audio/video equipment? In other words, how do they get that flush look, are there spacers or whatever they are called that you custom cut out to fit the front of your components? Is there someplace the details building one of these racks and putting the a/v equipment in there?

I want one that is big enough for expansion of components, but yet also flexible to get to the back easy. I don't know yet if I want one built into a wall, or hidden in a closet yet etc? How does one make these decisions?

There are so many different options, where does one begin to shop for these things? What determines which way you go with an a/v rack etc?

Thanks!
Edited by chrisjmccord - 2/1/13 at 1:07pm
post #1623 of 1757
post #1624 of 1757
Thanks! I missed this post somehow, lol.
post #1625 of 1757
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisjmccord View Post

So I'm just starting to look around to find out what is out there for A/V racks, I don't have the dedicated room yet, a little ways away from that, but when the time comes I want to be well researched.
I saw some of the links above, specifically http://www.customavrack.com/ for audio video racks...are there other well known or well respected places to shop for a/v racks?

Also a noob question, how do the racks work with the various sizes of audio/video equipment? In other words, how do they get that flush look, are there spacers or whatever they are called that you custom cut out to fit the front of your components? Is there someplace the details building one of these racks and putting the a/v equipment in there?

I want one that is big enough for expansion of components, but yet also flexible to get to the back easy. I don't know yet if I want one built into a wall, or hidden in a closet yet etc? How does one make these decisions?

There are so many different options, where does one begin to shop for these things? What determines which way you go with an a/v rack etc?

Thanks!

I was in the same boat as you couple of weeks back, infact you know a lot more as compared to what i knew when i started.
I read this entire thread page to page, and saved a few pictures for the sake of inspiration for cable managment. Just four days of reading and i was able to setup a full size rack. Check two pages up. Chris at CustomAV Rack is a fantastic guy, talk to him, let him know what you need, and he will configure everything for you. U might need to send him an email of the list of components you have in the first place, and also possibly add few other items thats in ur wishlist or to buy in the future, and he will start recommending everything that you want.

The components sits flush on the rack, cos they are mounted on a shelf that is attached to a custom faceplate. Whatever equipments u have that does not have rackmounting ears, Chris will add those items to custom faceplates.
Here's the link to find the faceplate for your components.
http://www2.middleatlantic.com/RSH/mainRSH.asp
The sliding rack will be a little expensive one. However if you going for a standard budget rack u can choose one of the erk series..
http://www.middleatlantic.com/enclosure/sa/erksa.htm
A full size rack is 44u spaces.
If u dont want side panels, instead perfer removable panels, just let chris know.

Getting a plexi glass is all upto ur choice, its expensive, and i dont see a point except if you are planning to place the rack out of view and hate the blings.
Edited by holyindian - 2/1/13 at 3:19pm
post #1626 of 1757
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pain Infliction View Post

In terms of working as exhaust it works great. I got the kit because you can program the kit to turn on at a certain temp and shut off at a certain temp. I do not want to have to go and look to see if it is getting too hot in my rack and flip a switch. The kit does everything for me and perfectly. You can use your cut outs for fans and buy the temp control module by itself. Then you can splice the connectors onto your fans. Run them in parallel and make sure they are to the correct voltage. I think this might have answered your questions and points you were making. Let me know if you have any more questions.

Thanks that does that for me, perfect explaination. I placing orders for this now. Thanks again.
post #1627 of 1757
Did you order just the temp control module or the complete kit? If you ordered the complete kit you will have to cut your rack to make it work but from what you were telling me it sounds like you have your fans already and need just the module.
post #1628 of 1757
Quote:
Originally Posted by holyindian View Post

I was in the same boat as you couple of weeks back, infact you know a lot more as compared to what i knew when i started.
I read this entire thread page to page, and saved a few pictures for the sake of inspiration for cable managment. Just four days of reading and i was able to setup a full size rack. Check two pages up. Chris at CustomAV Rack is a fantastic guy, talk to him, let him know what you need, and he will configure everything for you. U might need to send him an email of the list of components you have in the first place, and also possibly add few other items thats in ur wishlist or to buy in the future, and he will start recommending everything that you want.

The components sits flush on the rack, cos they are mounted on a shelf that is attached to a custom faceplate. Whatever equipments u have that does not have rackmounting ears, Chris will add those items to custom faceplates.
Here's the link to find the faceplate for your components.
http://www2.middleatlantic.com/RSH/mainRSH.asp
The sliding rack will be a little expensive one. However if you going for a standard budget rack u can choose one of the erk series..
http://www.middleatlantic.com/enclosure/sa/erksa.htm
A full size rack is 44u spaces.
If u dont want side panels, instead perfer removable panels, just let chris know.

Getting a plexi glass is all upto ur choice, its expensive, and i dont see a point except if you are planning to place the rack out of view and hate the blings.

Thank you holyindian. This is very useful information. Its probably way ahead of where I am right now, as I don't even have a place in this current house to put a rack, but I know that in the future home we plan to buy/build, I will be making a spot. Thats when I'll need to create this rack. So my very early research is just to get acquainted with and familiar with what all I will need to investigate for my future space.

This info is a great start!
post #1629 of 1757
Quote:
Originally Posted by avrignaud View Post

Finally, I'm confused on how to get the clean, flush look with the faceplates above, especially for oddly-shaped devices like the video game consoles. I found some reference to a Performance Audio, stating they can supply these custom plates for Middle Atlantic racks, but I haven't been able to find a specific source, and am not sure if those would fit this rack as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisjmccord View Post

Also a noob question, how do the racks work with the various sizes of audio/video equipment? In other words, how do they get that flush look, are there spacers or whatever they are called that you custom cut out to fit the front of your components?


From: http://www.middleatlantic.com/pressdl/map/2011/RSHCEDIAHallofFame.pdf

Recognized at CEDIA Expo 2011 based on the impact they’ve exerted on the industry for
over 28 years, Middle Atlantic RSH Series Custom Rackmounts allow virtually any AV
component to be installed in a standard 19” enclosure without modifications.


Each RSH unit is quickly made to order and custom cut to provide a perfect opening for
the face of the component being mounted, resulting in a neatly-trimmed installation
that fits perfectly with no gaps.


There are accurate details for 10,000 components, including many introduced this year,
in the measured unit database available on middleatlantic.com to make ordering fast
and easy.
The database has grown steadily over the years thanks to the many customers
and manufacturer partners Middle Atlantic has worked with to measure applicable
components.

Asked about RSH rackmounts, Jim Garrett, Market Manager of Harman’s Luxury Audio
Group, one of Middle Atlantic’s manufacturer partners said, “Part of the beauty of the
RSH Custom Rackshelf is the simplicity. The products just fit. No need to remove the feet
or install rack ears on a component. And the look is fantastic. Customers love the
elegant finished appearance.”
post #1630 of 1757
^^^beautiful music to my ears^^^ now only if I had a closet or someplace to store a nice custom rack.
The new home, will have this planned out well.
post #1631 of 1757
My finished job...I'm no pro what so ever and my cable management skill are horrid...










post #1632 of 1757
Quote:
Originally Posted by andyboy View Post


Gear list?
Pic is too dark to tell...
post #1633 of 1757
Where is this av rack from? Is it a Middle Atlantic rack? Looks nice what you have, good job man.
post #1634 of 1757
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisjmccord View Post

Where is this av rack from? Is it a Middle Atlantic rack? Looks nice what you have, good job man.

MA logo, upper left.
post #1635 of 1757
Quote:
Originally Posted by OPPIZ View Post

Gear list?
Pic is too dark to tell...
Cisco cable box (Fios)
PS3
XBOX360 (need to order custom face plate)
Pioneer Elite Receiver SC-05
post #1636 of 1757
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisjmccord View Post

Where is this av rack from? Is it a Middle Atlantic rack? Looks nice what you have, good job man.
Middle Atlantic Slim 5 Series Rack - 29U
Thanks!
post #1637 of 1757
Quote:
Originally Posted by andyboy View Post

Cisco cable box (Fios)
PS3
XBOX360 (need to order custom face plate)
Pioneer Elite Receiver SC-05

Nice job! Thanks for the list.
post #1638 of 1757
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post

MA logo, upper left.

Ditto.
White MA logo, upper left corner.

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 100
post #1639 of 1757
Please help me learn proper wiring skills

I bought a Compaq (HP) 10642 42U rack for $100 a couple years ago when the city was selling off their old server gear. I've currently got two servers running (2U and 4U), some switches (4U), UPS (2U), and a monitor and some other drawers/shelves taking up about half of the total space. I still have room to grow, but before I add anything more I really want to get the wiring under control and get into the habit of planning and wiring properly. I'm thinking of combining my AV gear at a later point once I complete my HT. Maybe take it off the casters and build it into the wall adjacent to the utility room (for rear access). I've searched around, but haven't found much in the way of consolidated wiring tutorials. I want to make it look nice and neat, but it's not one of my strong suits. Please let me know of any resources or guides that may help.

I'm getting tired of the Frankenstein method. biggrin.gif
post #1640 of 1757
2u =1u vent space

4u = 2u vent space

how much you can stick in will depend how hot it gets in your area..

i'm inclined to add a second rack 2x2u =7u space, 2x4u = 14u rack space....
post #1641 of 1757
Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanddrews View Post

I want to make it look nice and neat, but it's not one of my strong suits.
Unless you've really determined where everything is going to go, and how it'll be interconnected, you sort of can't avoid the inevitable mess. You can mitigate just how messy it looks, but you have to balance that against how much trouble that makes for changing things.

D-rings and other rack-oriented cable guides are nice, especially if they're large enough to allow decent movement of cables through them. Otherwise you end up with cable connectors getting broken due to being pulled through a tight bundle (or worse, breaks to other cables in there). Velcro is nice, but zip ties are usually a lot cheaper, especially when bought in bulk. A few zip ties left in large open loops can act as poor man's D-rings. Once you're more certain about the final cabling layout you can simply go back and add the proper zip ties where needed.

One bit of advice, get ready made cables in the lengths needed.

monoprice.com is a phenomenally inexpensive supplier of all sort of colors and lengths of cabling. It's far better to use the right length than to get into trying to wrap or otherwise bundle ones that are too long. Once you find the desired setup, measure the cabling and order ones to fit. That alone works wonders for cleaning up how a rack looks. Without adding the hassle of trying to un-thread the cable later only to be locked by the bulk of a bundled extra length.

And when cabling be sure to avoid turning cables too tight, blocking air flow or making it unduly difficult to service the equipment later. As in, don't pull a cable so tight as to possibly break the wires inside of it or the socket to which it's attached. Or across the only vent holes a unit has. Or laced in so tight as to make it impossible get the hardware out for service later without disrupting a ton of other wiring to other gear. Nothing worse than trying to fix one problem and end up causing others due to wiring or connector failures.

In short, I doubt you'll find any one fully authoritative resource on 'how to wire' equipment. If only because each kind of device or wire has it's own peculiarities.
post #1642 of 1757
Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanddrews View Post

Please help me learn proper wiring skills

I bought a Compaq (HP) 10642 42U rack for $100 a couple years ago when the city was selling off their old server gear. I've currently got two servers running (2U and 4U), some switches (4U), UPS (2U), and a monitor and some other drawers/shelves taking up about half of the total space. I still have room to grow, but before I add anything more I really want to get the wiring under control and get into the habit of planning and wiring properly. I'm thinking of combining my AV gear at a later point once I complete my HT. Maybe take it off the casters and build it into the wall adjacent to the utility room (for rear access). I've searched around, but haven't found much in the way of consolidated wiring tutorials. I want to make it look nice and neat, but it's not one of my strong suits. Please let me know of any resources or guides that may help.

I'm getting tired of the Frankenstein method. biggrin.gif

Lacing bars are a god send

The problem with buying pre-made cables is that you inevitable have lost of slack to hide somewhere
post #1643 of 1757
Quote:
Originally Posted by mystic_sniper28 View Post

2u =1u vent space
4u = 2u vent space
how much you can stick in will depend how hot it gets in your area..
i'm inclined to add a second rack 2x2u =7u space, 2x4u = 14u rack space....

Thanks, I've been maintaining some space between my components, but nothing as strict as that rule. Usually it depends upon the component and whether or not it has vents or fans on the top or bottom... so I've been winging it. This rack is in the basement where it stays pretty cool year-round and most of my components run cool. Plus it came with the roof-mounted exhaust fans should I ever need them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post

D-rings and other rack-oriented cable guides are nice, especially if they're large enough to allow decent movement of cables through them. Otherwise you end up with cable connectors getting broken due to being pulled through a tight bundle (or worse, breaks to other cables in there). Velcro is nice, but zip ties are usually a lot cheaper, especially when bought in bulk. A few zip ties left in large open loops can act as poor man's D-rings. Once you're more certain about the final cabling layout you can simply go back and add the proper zip ties where needed. One bit of advice, get ready made cables in the lengths needed. In short, I doubt you'll find any one fully authoritative resource on 'how to wire' equipment. If only because each kind of device or wire has it's own peculiarities.

Good advice. The rack came with some metal d-ring-like cable holders down the back rails, but I haven't found a good way to utilize them yet. I'll probably just wait until I fill the rack with more things and move it closer to its final location. No sense in getting too serious about it yet, I suppose.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark_anderson_u View Post

Lacing bars are a god send. The problem with buying pre-made cables is that you inevitable have lost of slack to hide somewhere

Lacing bars definitely seem like a good investment. I'm good at making my own cables and I've got several hundred feet of bulk stranded and solid wire left to customize things how I want, so I generally avoid buying premade cables.
post #1644 of 1757
while it is a great idea to use coloured cables, if you have colour blindness i would tend to use the least colours as possible.

cable tie labels are your best friend that way you know where the cable is routed..

if gear throws out more heat than expected taking ambient room temp you might need double the space for air flow..

also note: if investing in gigabit switches take note that not all components in your network will support gigabit as 90-95% will only be supporting 10/100, i suspect we are likely 10-15 years away before gigabit or better should be mandatory for every component on the network...
Edited by mystic_sniper28 - 2/12/13 at 1:43pm
post #1645 of 1757
As a general rule, run all your AC cables to one side of the rack and LV cables to the other.

+10, lacing bars make the job of keeping everything neat much easier.

I have been using 2 lacing bars for some components, one for AC and the other for LV, but pick the side for AC logically. If most of your AC cables enter the components on one side, choose that side for AC.

Velcro makes changes much easier. If you don't change often, use zip ties. Velcro One Wrap from Home Depot is fairly affordable.
post #1646 of 1757
Quote:
Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post

Unless you've really determined where everything is going to go, and how it'll be interconnected, you sort of can't avoid the inevitable mess. You can mitigate just how messy it looks, but you have to balance that against how much trouble that makes for changing things.

D-rings and other rack-oriented cable guides are nice, especially if they're large enough to allow decent movement of cables through them. Otherwise you end up with cable connectors getting broken due to being pulled through a tight bundle (or worse, breaks to other cables in there). Velcro is nice, but zip ties are usually a lot cheaper, especially when bought in bulk. A few zip ties left in large open loops can act as poor man's D-rings. Once you're more certain about the final cabling layout you can simply go back and add the proper zip ties where needed.

One bit of advice, get ready made cables in the lengths needed.

monoprice.com is a phenomenally inexpensive supplier of all sort of colors and lengths of cabling. It's far better to use the right length than to get into trying to wrap or otherwise bundle ones that are too long. Once you find the desired setup, measure the cabling and order ones to fit. That alone works wonders for cleaning up how a rack looks. Without adding the hassle of trying to un-thread the cable later only to be locked by the bulk of a bundled extra length.

And when cabling be sure to avoid turning cables too tight, blocking air flow or making it unduly difficult to service the equipment later. As in, don't pull a cable so tight as to possibly break the wires inside of it or the socket to which it's attached. Or across the only vent holes a unit has. Or laced in so tight as to make it impossible get the hardware out for service later without disrupting a ton of other wiring to other gear. Nothing worse than trying to fix one problem and end up causing others due to wiring or connector failures.

In short, I doubt you'll find any one fully authoritative resource on 'how to wire' equipment. If only because each kind of device or wire has it's own peculiarities.
A lot of good advice!
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark_anderson_u View Post

Lacing bars are a god send

The problem with buying pre-made cables is that you inevitable have lost of slack to hide somewhere
I agree on both.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post

As a general rule, run all your AC cables to one side of the rack and LV cables to the other.

+10, lacing bars make the job of keeping everything neat much easier.

I have been using 2 lacing bars for some components, one for AC and the other for LV, but pick the side for AC logically. If most of your AC cables enter the components on one side, choose that side for AC.

Velcro makes changes much easier. If you don't change often, use zip ties. Velcro One Wrap from Home Depot is fairly affordable.
Good advice!
I use the rear length of my rack shelves as a lacing bar for all my power cords( going to the left side of the rack ). I then cross all other cables perpendicular, to rear rack rail mounted lacing bars( going to the right side of the rack ).

Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanddrews View Post

Please help me learn proper wiring skills

I bought a Compaq (HP) 10642 42U rack for $100 a couple years ago when the city was selling off their old server gear. I've currently got two servers running (2U and 4U), some switches (4U), UPS (2U), and a monitor and some other drawers/shelves taking up about half of the total space. I still have room to grow, but before I add anything more I really want to get the wiring under control and get into the habit of planning and wiring properly. I'm thinking of combining my AV gear at a later point once I complete my HT. Maybe take it off the casters and build it into the wall adjacent to the utility room (for rear access). I've searched around, but haven't found much in the way of consolidated wiring tutorials. I want to make it look nice and neat, but it's not one of my strong suits. Please let me know of any resources or guides that may help.

I'm getting tired of the Frankenstein method. biggrin.gif


Here's a Cable Management PDF from Middle Atlantic: http://www.middleatlantic.com/pdf/cablemgmtguide.pdf

You may find more info, advice & inspiration in these other links:
http://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread.php?t=109913
http://www.blu-ray.com/community/gallery.php?member=ZIPPO&folderid=3303
http://forum.blu-ray.com/showpost.php?p=4228943&postcount=25
http://forum.blu-ray.com/showpost.php?p=5917101&postcount=72
post #1647 of 1757
I always do home theater installs in the closest closet and use a RF remote. Still have to get myself a RF remote, been slack since I can control most of my system from my phone. Not the way I want it but try to limit what I spend on myself.
post #1648 of 1757
So if you place an order with Mid-Atlantic on a custom rack for your own specific components, would they also help/assit you with ordering the right cables and lengths of cables, along with the cable management extras? Like could I basically give them the component information I have, and expect a close to out of the box setup/install of my gear, along with cables etc?

Or is that something that a pro installer would kind of need to be on site for, to measure certain things etc?
post #1649 of 1757
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisjmccord View Post

So if you place an order with Mid-Atlantic on a custom rack for your own specific components, would they also help/assit you with ordering the right cables and lengths of cables, along with the cable management extras? Like could I basically give them the component information I have, and expect a close to out of the box setup/install of my gear, along with cables etc?

Or is that something that a pro installer would kind of need to be on site for, to measure certain things etc?

Middle Atlantic won't. The vendor you place your order with may, but I doubt it.


Cable lengths will be determined once you arrange your rack, then measurements can be taken( DIY ).
When I first set up my rack, I used the dreaded "Frankenstein method" biggrin.gif, eventually I installed rear rack rails & lacing bars, then things started to look better.
Example: I measured from the source output, straight back to the lacing bar, then to the right side of the rack, then up to whichever AVR lacing bar I need, then over to the AVR input & straight back to input.
I then ordered cables close to my measurements from Monoprice.
post #1650 of 1757
Quote:
Originally Posted by OPPIZ View Post

Middle Atlantic won't. The vendor you place your order with may, but I doubt it.


Cable lengths will be determined once you arrange your rack, then measurements can be taken( DIY ).
When I first set up my rack, I used the dreaded "Frankenstein method" biggrin.gif, eventually I installed rear rack rails & lacing bars, then things started to look better.
Example: I measured from the source output, straight back to the lacing bar, then to the right side of the rack, then up to whichever AVR lacing bar I need, then over to the AVR input & straight back to input.
I then ordered cables close to my measurements from Monoprice.

Ok, I see, so like you mentioned before (or someone did), just takes time and due diligence to get the clean and pristine look with cable management.
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