or Connect
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Show me your RACK - Page 65

post #1921 of 2104
Quote:
Originally Posted by Randall.White View Post

I realize this is from a long time ago bug I thought I'd ask anyways.

Do you have anymore pics of the finished product? I really like the clean look to this.

Here ya go.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1082749/red-mountain-cinema-build/0_100
post #1922 of 2104
^^^ Thank you.
post #1923 of 2104
Quick question. What Ethernet switches are most of you using in your racks? I'm doing a list of needs so that my installer incorporates everything into the Slim-5-37 unit we are building for my media room. I'm thinking that I have 9 (ATV, Sonos, NAS, DTV, AVR, PS3, XBOX, BDP, and PJ) devices that I want wired in, and would like to leave room for an Htpc and future needs. This is also just a single room at the moment. I currently use a small 8 port netgear and it always looks sloppy and it doesn't have the extra capacity or POE that some home automation needs.

The rack will have a door on it. I've looked on NuEgg and all the rack mount 24 port gigabit POE switches all have connections and status lights on the front but this doesn't seem it work for an AV cabinet where you want the front to look finished off with now wires showing.

I'm curious what others have done in their racks for Ethernet.
post #1924 of 2104
Pakedge is the the only company I am aware of that puts the ethernet ports on the back, but they are very "spendy" units, especially for the managed switches. An alternative would be looking at well-loved units on eBay.

I wouldn't worry about having PoE integrated into the switch....there are plenty of injectors available that are cheap and easy to flip out if they ever fail. Plus some PoE devices need 15.4 watts whereas most require much less. I'd get a good 1U 24 port managed Gigabit switch from Cisco and be done with it. To preserve the clean look, I'd mount the unit backwards on a rear rack rail vs. the front rail. The equivalent rack space on the front would get a simple solid blank panel to conceal the switch's presence.
post #1925 of 2104
Thanks TMcG. That must be what most do as you don't see switches in these rack-bling pics that folks post. smile.gif
post #1926 of 2104
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdfein View Post

Thanks TMcG. That must be what most do as you don't see switches in these rack-bling pics that folks post. smile.gif

OR....there is a smaller secondary rack reserved for networking equipment, patch panels, etc. that run the back end of the system. That's been used many times before as well.
post #1927 of 2104
I use a 24 port unmanaged Cisco small business switch in my MA rack (fed by a cat6 run from my primary router) that of course has front ports/activity lights, along with an MA brush grommet panel for wire passthrough, only maybe 2" of wire is exposed and each cable it bent and installed uniformly. It's as clean as you can get IMO for a home AV rack install, when you need plenty of ports for AV gear, remote systems, runs to other systems in the home, etc.

http://www.middleatlantic.com/rackac/cablem/cablem.htm#BrushGrometPanel
post #1928 of 2104
Is there a reason you can't mount the switch at the back. That's what I do. you don't want one without LED's and I'd be surprised if anyone makes one.

I currently use the trendNet 24port, but you need to buy rack ears seaprately

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0044GH27U/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1
post #1929 of 2104

I mounted mine in the back of the rack, but vertically due to lack of room.  I like it very much that way as it doesn't consume any U's.

 

 

post #1930 of 2104
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark_anderson_u View Post

Is there a reason you can't mount the switch at the back. That's what I do. you don't want one without LED's and I'd be surprised if anyone makes one.

I currently use the trendNet 24port, but you need to buy rack ears seaprately

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0044GH27U/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Good point that I forgot to mention. I could only fit a 20" depth ERK rack and it's completely sealed (rear door, front face plates, vents blocked), I depend on what little space I have in the rear of the rack for airflow/thermal management between the lower intake fan and upper exhaust fan.
post #1931 of 2104
Quote:
Originally Posted by Done Deal DR View Post

Good point that I forgot to mention. I could only fit a 20" depth ERK rack and it's completely sealed (rear door, front face plates, vents blocked), I depend on what little space I have in the rear of the rack for airflow/thermal management between the lower intake fan and upper exhaust fan.

The solutions I can see then are:


Regards

mark
post #1932 of 2104
Could work from the backside, gives your gear a 3" recess.

rackrailrecessbrackets.JPG 47k .JPG file
post #1933 of 2104
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark_anderson_u View Post

The solutions I can see then are:


Regards

mark

I think you may be confusing me with somebody else, I have mine mounted regularly in the front and love it, Activity LEDs do not bother me with the location of the rack.
post #1934 of 2104
Here are some pics of my home theater room. Its still in construction, but the Audio/Video are complete.

I am running
Panasonic BDT-500 Blu Ray player handles the audio processing and sends LPCM to my AVR. (it can convert HD 5.1 to 7.1)
Harman Kardon AVR 347 as my HDMI switcher and processor
Harman Kardon AVR 635 as a 7 channel amplifier
Kenwood MX-5000 2 channel amplifier
Kenwood DV-5700 DVD player
HSU VTF-2
HSU STF-2
Sony VPL-VW50
Elite Screens 108" Silver Frame CineGrey screen
7X Snell 8" ceiling speakers powered by the Harman Kardon AVR 347
2X Athena AS-F2 speakers powered by the Kenwood MX 5000
3X Athena AS-F2, 2X AS-B1, 2X AS-R1 powered by the Harman Kardon AVR-635

Kenwood VR-5700 and DV-5900M are just there, without power.
The glass shelves are 5/8" from two OmniMount Studio 3B stands.

Originally, I intended on just using the Athena's and leaving the Ceiling speakers for show. But I decided to test them against each other. When I tried them together they sounded amazing. I ended up replacing my Kenwood Vr5700 with the AVR-635 because I wanted to use all 16.2 speakers.


post #1935 of 2104
Quote:
Originally Posted by Done Deal DR View Post

I think you may be confusing me with somebody else, I have mine mounted regularly in the front and love it, Activity LEDs do not bother me with the location of the rack.

Sorry mis-unederstood. Took this to mean you didn't want to see the LED's

" I've looked on NuEgg and all the rack mount 24 port gigabit POE switches all have connections and status lights on the front but this doesn't seem it work for an AV cabinet where you want the front to look finished off with now wires showing."
post #1936 of 2104
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark_anderson_u View Post

I've looked on NuEgg and all the rack mount 24 port gigabit POE switches all have connections and status lights on the front but this doesn't seem it work for an AV cabinet where you want the front to look finished off with now wires showing."
'

As mentioned above, Pakedge has network switches with all the ports in the rear: http://www.pakedge.com/products-switches.html
post #1937 of 2104
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark_anderson_u View Post

Sorry mis-unederstood. Took this to mean you didn't want to see the LED's

" I've looked on NuEgg and all the rack mount 24 port gigabit POE switches all have connections and status lights on the front but this doesn't seem it work for an AV cabinet where you want the front to look finished off with now wires showing."

I never said that, believe that was another member.
post #1938 of 2104
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark_anderson_u View Post

Also, if you have the depth, use knurled screws to install the faceplate. Then at least you're not faced with using a screwdriver every time you need to get to the equipment. Screws tend to get scraped and lose their black paint over time. Whereas a knurled screw won't. But then you also have a knobby-looking screw sticking up. 6 of one, half-dozen...

I prefer to avoid getting network gear that's custom. You pay too much and then don't have a decent upgrade or replacement path should something go wrong.
post #1939 of 2104
Quote:
Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post

Also, if you have the depth, use knurled screws to install the faceplate. Then at least you're not faced with using a screwdriver every time you need to get to the equipment.

If you have a lot of depth, there's also quick-release fasteners (if you can find them in stock). They have a separate stud and knurled cap. The stud stays in the rack. When installed they look like this (ignore the blue arrow):

20131230-receiver-cooling-fan.jpg

The main downside is that if you have a washer between the faceplate and cap, it has to be removed/replaced every time. The mounting part of the stud is also slightly larger than a 10-32 screw, so if a vendor cuts really thin slots into their rack ears they might not fit over the studs -- APC is the most common offender I've run into.
post #1940 of 2104
Quote:
Originally Posted by dododge View Post

If you have a lot of depth, there's also quick-release fasteners (if you can find them in stock). They have a separate stud and knurled cap. The stud stays in the rack. When installed they look like this (ignore the blue arrow):

The main downside is that if you have a washer between the faceplate and cap, it has to be removed/replaced every time. The mounting part of the stud is also slightly larger than a 10-32 screw, so if a vendor cuts really thin slots into their rack ears they might not fit over the studs -- APC is the most common offender I've run into.

True. I've used both styles and didn't mention the stud because of that. What's worse than mismatched screw heads? Mismatched washers under them! When I tore down the old house I must've found at least two dozen screws and washers that'd gotten dropped and lost over time... But still not enough to make complete sets! I'm guessing for the next rack I'll tally up the number of screws and washers needed and, well, QUADRUPLE IT. ;>

I've found the stud kind most useful when I need to lift something into place and don't have someone else to handle the load. Lift it up on to two of the studs and then use a knurled screw (the one piece kind) to quickly secure it. I usually later go back and replace both with regular screws. Very helpful to have a pair of stud posts on the rack to rest the weight of the gear when muscling it all into place... says the man putting off repopulating his racks in the new house...
post #1941 of 2104
Quote:
Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post

I've found the stud kind most useful when I need to lift something into place and don't have someone else to handle the load. Lift it up on to two of the studs and then use a knurled screw (the one piece kind) to quickly secure it.

I agree that's really their killer feature; they can make it a lot easier to get equipment in and out of the rack by yourself. Pretty much all of my stuff is on shelves these days but I can recall many unpleasant past experiences of trying to hold something into place with one hand while getting a screw started through a mounting ear with the other.
Quote:
Mismatched washers under them!

Yeah I made the mistake of putting a bunch of rack washers into a single container, so now whenever I'm installing stuff I find myself spending a couple minutes trying to find ones that fit right. They all look identical at first glance but a fraction of a mm turns out to be significant.
post #1942 of 2104
I'm using a middle altantic rack - haven't put in any custom face plates yet, but it seems to just barely fit all my equipment.

The rack sits behind an acoustic panel, and I made a hinge in one side of the panel / split the panel in two in order to be able to hide all the equipment behind it.

I put an IR receiver in the front of the room, and a distributor in behind the rack. Seems to work pretty well so far.



to be honest, I'm slightly above the weight limit for this rack, so when I slide the unit out, I pop a small supporting table I have underneath it temporarily to make sure nothing bad happens. If budget permitted I would have purchased the larger rack with the built in supporting feet - but the budget didn't stretch that far.

On the bottom are 7 x Outlaw monoblock amps, and above that an Adcom 5400 that i use to drive my clark synthesis transducers. Processor is an Onkyo PR-SC5509.

The same rack also holds a component video matrix switch, along with an AV/Receiver for a room upstairs
post #1943 of 2104
Great pics!

Looking to build out a rack myself, what blank panel style does everyone prefer? I've noticed MA has different styles/materials/finishes and wondered which series was the most liked.
post #1944 of 2104
The black anodized is the premium finish and looks way better than the simple powder coat IMHO. And if you get vent panels, get the ones with the smaller holes. It will still provide plenty of ventilation and will look much sharper than the wide open vent panels.
post #1945 of 2104
I agree on the black brushed and anodized finish, it's the preferable finish for most applications. My Oppo and Pioneer Elite receiver blend perfectly into the them, making for a very seamless look. Some of my other equipment like the Xbox One don't blend quite as well, but still looks great.
post #1946 of 2104
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

The black anodized is the premium finish and looks way better than the simple powder coat IMHO. And if you get vent panels, get the ones with the smaller holes. It will still provide plenty of ventilation and will look much sharper than the wide open vent panels.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Done Deal DR View Post

I agree on the black brushed and anodized finish, it's the preferable finish for most applications. My Oppo and Pioneer Elite receiver blend perfectly into the them, making for a very seamless look. Some of my other equipment like the Xbox One don't blend quite as well, but still looks great.

Thanks guys, that's kind of what I was leaning towards. The brushed panels definitely look better and will match the fronts of my equipment, but come in at about twice the price of the powder coated ones. The rack is going to be portable, so both sides might be visible but I think I can get away with just using the brushed for the front and the regular finish on the back (won't match my UCP panels, but oh well).
post #1947 of 2104
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheAstronaut View Post


Thanks guys, that's kind of what I was leaning towards. The brushed panels definitely look better and will match the fronts of my equipment, but come in at about twice the price of the powder coated ones. The rack is going to be portable, so both sides might be visible but I think I can get away with just using the brushed for the front and the regular finish on the back (won't match my UCP panels, but oh well).

You're going to be installing plates on the rear as well? How will you access the equipment? Maybe I'm not understanding but if you want access to the rear and want it covered for a clean look, opt for a rack with a rear door (I did, went with the MA ERK line).
post #1948 of 2104
Quote:
Originally Posted by Done Deal DR View Post

You're going to be installing plates on the rear as well? How will you access the equipment? Maybe I'm not understanding but if you want access to the rear and want it covered for a clean look, opt for a rack with a rear door (I did, went with the MA ERK line).

Yes, the rack is a 10U Gator Case rolling rack, it has front and rear rails. It will be used mostly for outdoor movies at multiple locations so it will have to be moved around a lot. All of the connections to the equipment will be wired to keystone or Speakon jacks to make connecting/disconnecting the equipment easier. Once everything is wired to the jacks on the rear panel I shouldn't need to access the back of the equipment very often but I will probably use a 3 or 4 RU panel on the back with thumbscrews to allow easy access should I need it. Budget is my biggest constraint for the project and the case was an irresistible deal on CL.

You can check out my portable rack thread in my sig to see (and unfortunately poor cellphone) picture of the case and read a little more about the project if you're interested.

I do appreciate the advice everyone on AVS has given me, I've only had the HT bug for about two years now and there's still so much to learn! biggrin.gif
/endthreadjack
post #1949 of 2104
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheAstronaut View Post

Yes, the rack is a 10U Gator Case rolling rack, it has front and rear rails. It will be used mostly for outdoor movies at multiple locations so it will have to be moved around a lot. All of the connections to the equipment will be wired to keystone or Speakon jacks to make connecting/disconnecting the equipment easier. Once everything is wired to the jacks on the rear panel I shouldn't need to access the back of the equipment very often but I will probably use a 3 or 4 RU panel on the back with thumbscrews to allow easy access should I need it. Budget is my biggest constraint for the project and the case was an irresistible deal on CL.

You can check out my portable rack thread in my sig to see (and unfortunately poor cellphone) picture of the case and read a little more about the project if you're interested.

I do appreciate the advice everyone on AVS has given me, I've only had the HT bug for about two years now and there's still so much to learn! biggrin.gif
/endthreadjack

That makes much more sense and I will definitely check the link out!
post #1950 of 2104
Hi Guys, I love the rack pics, I seen a picture of someones rack that had a blue temperature display like this pic that Ive attached. What kind of temp gauge is that? I cant find anything like it on the MA site, or on the internet. I have a Slim 5 37 and would like to have this at the top just so I can keep an eye on the temp with a quick glance.

Cheers!

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home