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Hitachi 51/57/65F59A CRT RPTV Tweaks Thread - Page 78

post #2311 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustang68 View Post

Just FYI. I still can't get much distinction in the sharpness pattern lines in DVE HD. I have to take the user menu sharpness and dial it all the way up or down to get any difference. I really haven't made it a priority because if I have the right feed, ie..HD DVD, a good HD Dish program...my sharpness is real good. I know someone else has said they experienced the same thing. Anyone else out there?

In my opinion, there is definitely a difference, it's just that that difference can be very difficult to detect on a test pattern. I would also say make sure all the sharpness enhancing circuits are off as well. The "ghosting" that you'll see to the left and right of the black lines in the sharpness pattern can be very faint. A very light gray. I actually used a little magnifying lens to make sure I was seeing it as well as I could, but in the end I could see it with my own eyes.

It can also be that on your particular set, it's just as you see it; there is little or no difference. Although I find that odd.
post #2312 of 4822
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustang68 View Post

Good as mine seems to shift more than others. Maybe the permanent fix is on the way. Did all settings transfer? I would hate to have to tweak everything all over again.

To Mustang & all other interested parties.....I posted more info on the HDMI shift thread. Despite one brief image freakout early on, my D* DVR via HDMI was stable & shift free for 48 hrs this weekend. The "fix" seems to work.

Also will note in my last Shift thread post that you had better write down every setting (user/service) prior to the board replacement, as set will revert to OOB levels across the board.

Save for the original HDMI freakout fix, that is. That data is still there (in fact, the software # changes to V020 post repair). DCU swap will allow existing conv/geo data to remain, but some DCAM touchups will still be needed.

But yeah.....it seems to have worked.
post #2313 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwebb1970 View Post

But yeah.....it seems to have worked.

Congratulations. And thanks for your persistence.
So how do the rest of us get it?

Michael
post #2314 of 4822
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post

Congratulations. And thanks for your persistence.
So how do the rest of us get it?

Michael

First step would be to call Hitachi Customer Relations @ 800-654-7013.

Ask to speak to someone in Engineering regarding their recent solution to the F59's HDMI issues (invoving the instal of a new signal block assembly). They should either transfer you or at least get some contact info for Engineering to get back to you.

Should not be an issue if your set is out of warranty (most of ours are now), as it seems Hitachi will be picking up the tab on these (as they should).

Generally, Hit will farm the job out to your local Hit tech as warranty work. May send the new part to tech or directly to you. Mine was FedEx'ed overnight to me, mainly 'cause they really wanted to test the fix out in the wild. Mine & pinkfloyd1973's are the only 2 sets here that have had the mod done, I believe. And perhaps among the potentially small handful nationally - maybe we are it so far??

(edit: To vstream....I know your local Hit tech is not "up to snuff" in your opinion. I hear ya. But, you are in the SF Bay Area, if I recall.....see if Hit will allow Mr Bob to do yours. They have authorized warranty level work for Bob/Image Perfection in the past. He's local, so I don't see why not. And hey...maybe you might spring for a little calibration work at the same time

And to Bob, I assume as always that it's OK to pimp you out here for such things! ).


For those not familiar, the part getting swapped out is the large board that houses all your inputs/outputs. The DCU is a small chrome "box" attached to the main board, with ventilated sides (looks like a cheese grater), containing the various memory circuits inside. Attached to main board via 4 solder joints - swapping DCUs is far less time consuming than a full DCAM re-do from uncorrected state (original Hitachi gameplan, part came with all service menu sections dealing with conv redo w/ screen jig). The actual mod that Hit performed was not part of the DCU, but in fact another part/chip nearby that in some way governs HDMI output. As often guessed around here, the shifting was a "handshake" issue.

Should you get a repair set up, make sure beforehand that all your user & SM "tweaks" are written down. They will revert back to OOB levels after the board swap, but changing back to written altered values takes little time. As long as the tech takes your existing set's DCU off of it's signal block and installs it on the new block, all your conv/geo/oscan settings will remain intact (but will need some DCAM level touchup work).

The old HDMI fix/software mod I posted WAY back in the Tweaks thread (and shift thread, too)has it's data remain, although your set's software will change to V020---white text, not magenta anymore.

The engineer I dealt with directly was named Oscar. Have his phone/ext#, but not with me @ the moment (plus, I'm not sure he wants to get flooded with calls all by himself!)
post #2315 of 4822
I will make my call to Hitachi next week after the holiday.
post #2316 of 4822
well it looks like that i missed the boat on the mod fix mines a year&1/2 old does anybody know how much it cost yet to get the part and put in........i know it is still way early,but i had to ask
post #2317 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by SinrSavdByGrace View Post

well it looks like that i missed the boat on the mod fix mines a year&1/2 old does anybody know how much it cost yet to get the part and put in........i know it is still way early,but i had to ask

Obviously, you missed this line:

"Should not be an issue if your set is out of warranty (most of ours are now), as it seems Hitachi will be picking up the tab on these (as they should)."
post #2318 of 4822
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SinrSavdByGrace View Post

well it looks like that i missed the boat on the mod fix mines a year&1/2 old does anybody know how much it cost yet to get the part and put in........i know it is still way early,but i had to ask


How did you miss the boat? Did you call Customer Relations? Ask to speak to Engineering about the specific problem (HDMI shifts) and their recent solution?

My 51" was purchased new from CC in Oct 2006. Never bought an EW & the factory warranty expired in Oct 2007.

The signal block assembly/DCU swap costs were eaten by Hitachi. Being that these sets were essentially defective right off the assembly line, it should not cost any owner a signle dime to get the modded board installed.

I got the call from Hit initially because I (and a few others here) registered HDMI complaints with Cust. Relations. 1st reports were given to Hit soon after the 1st HDMI service menu fix materialized & failed to cure the shifting. I even sent Hit some photos of the shift in action some months back from my set as well as another owner's set running an XBOX360 over HDMI. Have been getting a call from Cust Relations (usually a rep named Josh) every couple of months, reassuring me that Hit engineers were still working on a solution. 2 wks ago, I get another call from Josh, this time to set up the board swap & that this might be a fix (Hitachi wanted to test it in the wild before claiming complete victory).

You could register a complaint about the HDMI shifts w/ Cust Relations. That'll get you on a list for call back/email contacts. OR, just state on the phone the specific reason you are calling.

They should fix this on their dime for you & any other owner who wants it done. Don't see why they wouldn't. I could see them issuing a service bulletin for this one soon if they find more peple are getting positive results from the swap.
post #2319 of 4822
In the color decoding thread, Owen and myself have been discussing the YDTL setting. On my set, YDTL seems to have an effect on edges. One way it produces a thick black line, the other way, it makes a thick grayish line. On Owen's Hitachi, he says it didn't change black and white at all. What is everyone else's experience with this setting?

And while we're at it, any other adjust adjustments that haven't been mentioned here at all or lately that have impacted the picture?
post #2320 of 4822
We'll after almost 3 years, I finally opened-up the back of my HITACHI to see how she was looking. Mr. Bob you were right, my lenses were very dirty. Minor problem. NO Sprayway, so I used a little dish-washing liquid diluted with water & began to clean. I clean them 3 times, even thought after the 2nd time the lenses looked good. I then used a micro-fiber cloth & gently wiped each lenses to get rid of any extra particles. I wanted to black-out the inside but didn't have the right tools.

I then turned the set-on & once the guns warmed-up the picture was simply ..... As I type this I'm watch Ratituoille with my grandson & the picture is stunning & my whites look white

And to think my mind keeps telling me it's time to move-on to a Flat-Panel...

EDIT: Here's a quick DVR Grab in 1080i... Sorry for the glare on the left side kitchen light is on. The wife is preparing some dishes for a family get together tomorrow

post #2321 of 4822
BFJ:

I would suggest you take out the screen... it is not as difficult as it sound, and buy some acrylic flat paint and a medium size brush, and do the inside black, also while you have the screen down clean your mirror, on th hits you could use regular windex and paper towels. NOTE windex ONLY for the mirror NEVER for the lenses. Your picture will be even better.

If you want to take it a step further, make a lens hood, 20in by 17.25in and notches on the bottom for the guns made out of black carton.

Good job... looking good.
post #2322 of 4822
I just got a nasty "surprise." Finished reading all the posts since I last visited, was in the service menu looking at some of my settings, when I lost the ability of Component Input 3 to receive progressive/HD signals.

You can get a signal, but it's split into two images. Like you're feeding a 480P component signal into a 480i television. Was viewing from my PC when it happened and originally thought my video card died. Screwed around for 10 minutes before plugging the component cables into Input 4 and discovering Input 4 worked fine. HDMI also works fine.

When it occurred, I turned on the television (Windows desktop was fine at that moment) and immediately hit menu-8-select on the remote. As soon as the service menu appeared, my image split in half.

This image splitting occurs with everything. PC/Cable box/etc. And even though I'm feeding HD signals, when I enter the menu, VirtualHD options are accessible. So the input has clearly lost the ability to receive anything besides 480i. It's now an 480i only input (IE worthless.)

Guess my big summer tweaks are done with. I'm gonna do some convergence and ride it till it dies Little over 18 months old too.
post #2323 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by superleo View Post

BFJ:

I would suggest you take out the screen... it is not as difficult as it sound, and buy some acrylic flat paint and a medium size brush, and do the inside black, also while you have the screen down clean your mirror, on th hits you could use regular windex and paper towels. NOTE windex ONLY for the mirror NEVER for the lenses. Your picture will be even better.

If you want to take it a step further, make a lens hood, 20in by 17.25in and notches on the bottom for the guns made out of black carton.

Good job... looking good.

That project my friend is for another day... I need to be totally alone with no one home. My wife was freaking out when she saw me with tools in hands. When I told her what I was about to embark on the look of "Death" appeared on her face.

This may be because I'm not the greatest handy-man around


Just happy I was able to clean the lenses without hosing anything.
post #2324 of 4822
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1044279

You know what, when I turned the television on, I too heard a really loud click. Definitely startled me a bit. I'm thinking I have a less severe (at the moment) version of what occurred there.
post #2325 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by superleo View Post

BFJ:

Note - windex ONLY for the mirror NEVER for the lenses. Your picture will be even better..

Windex is just fine for the lenses, as long as you don't allow any of it down INTO the lenses, where it will fog up the internal lenses. As soon as you spray it on, get your absorbent wiping material down to the lowest part immediately, to suck up the runoff. Unnecessary with foam Sprayway, of course, but necessary with sprayed liquid glass cleaners. For my wiping material I use paper towels for their incredible amount of absorbency and make sure to be easing the particulates UP and away from the oncoming paper on the one swipe per pass that I do, rather than grinding them down into the surface. A paper towel not abrasive when it's wet, and I find its absorbency is second to none.

It's all in the wrist...

I have heard from Jason at www.highreflectivemirrors.com that the makers of front surface mirrors for almost all applications these days recommend Windex with Ammonia D for their mirrors. Craig Miller recommended against this many years ago, but he had astronomical optics he was cleaning, and Jason says that's a completely different animal from front surface mirrors, and he sees why Craig felt that way, if it was telescope mirrors being talked about.

If you don't want to take any chances Glass Plus has no ammonia in it, and is readily available - unlike Sprayway, which can be kitchy to find.

But there's nothing wrong with using ANY regular glass cleaner on the lenses. The important thing is what you use to get that gritty stuff off, and how you do it, to totally guard those delicate plastic surfaces against being scratched.


Mr Bob
post #2326 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul33993 View Post

I just got a nasty "surprise." Finished reading all the posts since I last visited, was in the service menu looking at some of my settings, when I lost the ability of Component Input 3 to receive progressive/HD signals.

You can get a signal, but it's split into two images. Like you're feeding a 480P component signal into a 480i television. Was viewing from my PC when it happened and originally thought my video card died. Screwed around for 10 minutes before plugging the component cables into Input 4 and discovering Input 4 worked fine. HDMI also works fine.

When it occurred, I turned on the television (Windows desktop was fine at that moment) and immediately hit menu-8-select on the remote. As soon as the service menu appeared, my image split in half.

This image splitting occurs with everything. PC/Cable box/etc. And even though I'm feeding HD signals, when I enter the menu, VirtualHD options are accessible. So the input has clearly lost the ability to receive anything besides 480i. It's now an 480i only input (IE worthless.)

Guess my big summer tweaks are done with. I'm gonna do some convergence and ride it till it dies Little over 18 months old too.

Sounds like your set is receiving a 1080p signal, which does the same thing as receiving a 480p signal into a 480i-only input - gives a double3 image. If you're using HTPC, check that out, see if it is sending out a 1080p signal.

Do you still have one component IP left?

For around $30 you can get a AV switcher from RS that is component grade, in terms of its shielding and separation. 4 in, 1 out, manual, very easy to use and SUPER cheap.

So you only have 1 component IP rather than 2 now. With this cheap little switcher, you'll have 4.

Or go to www.monoprice.com and get a remote controlled one for a little under $100.

Or call Hit and find out how to get it back. You prolly flipped one register in there somehow, you just need to flip it back.

No reason to kiss off your perfectly good CRT RPTV!


Mr Bob
post #2327 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul33993 View Post

I just got a nasty "surprise." Finished reading all the posts since I last visited, was in the service menu looking at some of my settings, when I lost the ability of Component Input 3 to receive progressive/HD signals.

You can get a signal, but it's split into two images. Like you're feeding a 480P component signal into a 480i television. Was viewing from my PC when it happened and originally thought my video card died. Screwed around for 10 minutes before plugging the component cables into Input 4 and discovering Input 4 worked fine. HDMI also works fine.

When it occurred, I turned on the television (Windows desktop was fine at that moment) and immediately hit menu-8-select on the remote. As soon as the service menu appeared, my image split in half.

This image splitting occurs with everything. PC/Cable box/etc. And even though I'm feeding HD signals, when I enter the menu, VirtualHD options are accessible. So the input has clearly lost the ability to receive anything besides 480i. It's now an 480i only input (IE worthless.)

Guess my big summer tweaks are done with. I'm gonna do some convergence and ride it till it dies Little over 18 months old too.


What is the exact model of your set?
post #2328 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by macgyver655 View Post

What is the exact model of your set?

51F59A.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Sounds like your set is receiving a 1080p signal, which does the same thing as receiving a 480p signal into a 480i-only input - gives a double3 image. If you're using HTPC, check that out, see if it is sending out a 1080p signal.

Do you still have one component IP left?

For around $30 you can get a AV switcher from RS that is component grade, in terms of its shielding and separation. 4 in, 1 out, manual, very easy to use and SUPER cheap.

So you only have 1 component IP rather than 2 now. With this cheap little switcher, you'll have 4.

Or go to www.monoprice.com and get a remote controlled one for a little under $100.

Or call Hit and find out how to get it back. You prolly flipped one register in there somehow, you just need to flip it back.

No reason to kiss off your perfectly good CRT RPTV!


Mr Bob

It's definitely only receiving 480i signals. I screwed around a little more and when I was running the HTPC, the only way I can get a solid picture was if I set the PC to output to 480i. Anything that was Progessive or HD in nature yielded varying degrees of scrambled pictures. So that was a simple verification of my theory.

Definitely not throwing the set away Have 1 working HD component and the 1 HDMI. I'll definitely go the switcher route, but I'm more than a little worried that whatever caused Input 3's death will inflict the others.

But, yeah, after looking at the various sets on the AVS forums, I'm praying I can get another year or two cause there's nothing out there that even remotely interests me (except Pioneer Kuro plasma, which has a price that doesn't.)
post #2329 of 4822
Input 3 and input 4 are both designed to work with composite or component input. It is suppose to be auto sense. It sounds like it somehow got locked to composite input. If you select input 3 and hit info on the remote, what does it have on the screen? Try it with 480p even tho you have 2 pics you should still be able to read it. Do you have the user manual?
post #2330 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by macgyver655 View Post

Input 3 and input 4 are both designed to work with composite or component input. It is suppose to be auto sense. It sounds like it somehow got locked to composite input. If you select input 3 and hit info on the remote, what does it have on the screen? Try it with 480p even tho you have 2 pics you should still be able to read it. Do you have the user manual?

The OSD displays fine even when the image is corrupted. When I hit Info on input 3, it is showing the display as being 480i no matter what kind of resolution is being fed.

Edited since I went through and read the user manual. Auto link on Input 3 is supposed to be there and has nothing to do with this. So I've edited it out of this post. But I didn't realize you could even use composite inputs on 3 + 4 (Come on Hitachi, how many composite inputs were really needed?). This definitely sounds like the issue. It's somehow stuck on composite only. Anyone have a clue as to what kind of setting auto sense would be? I've gone through the service menu and haven't found anything in 1360 that seems to correlate. And I don't wanna go blindly entering sub menus that I'm ignorant about (and risk resetting things that shouldn't be.)
post #2331 of 4822
I has a bug on my screen several months ago twice in the same week but I have not seen it since. I thought it was a live creature that somehow got into the screen.
post #2332 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul33993 View Post

The OSD displays fine even when the image is corrupted. When I hit Info on input 3, it is showing the display as being 480i no matter what kind of resolution is being fed.

Edited since I went through and read the user manual. Auto link on Input 3 is supposed to be there and has nothing to do with this. So I've edited it out of this post. But I didn't realize you could even use composite inputs on 3 + 4 (Come on Hitachi, how many composite inputs were really needed?). This definitely sounds like the issue. It's somehow stuck on composite only. Anyone have a clue as to what kind of setting auto sense would be? I've gone through the service menu and haven't found anything in 1360 that seems to correlate. And I don't wanna go blindly entering sub menus that I'm ignorant about (and risk resetting things that shouldn't be.)


If I understand correctly, input 3 worked ok until you went into the service menu, correct? And you dont remember changing anything, correct?

Although auto link has nothing to do with this issue, I would try turning it on and see what happens.

When you hit info on input 3 can you highlight anything and change it?

I looked over the service manual in the service menu section and I'm not seeing anything that would pertain to your problem unless you changed something in the I2C area. If all else fails you may have to try a factory reset.
post #2333 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by BFJ 96 View Post

That project my friend is for another day... I need to be totally alone with no one home. My wife was freaking out when she saw me with tools in hands. When I told her what I was about to embark on the look of "Death" appeared on her face.

This may be because I'm not the greatest handy-man around


Just happy I was able to clean the lenses without hosing anything.

I can relate very much to that. I had to wait for every one in my family to be gone for a vacation, and I had the missforune to had to stayed, then I had the time to do it. Anyways, great job.
post #2334 of 4822
I tried all three auto-links settings, but as expected it didn't change anything.

It all happened so quickly, I can't be 100 percent sure. But yeah, I turned on the television, rapidly did the 8-input-select code and I'm pretty sure I lost the picture as soon as the service menu appeared. But I can't be positive it was instantaneous.

I left the house and am gonna be gone till tomorrow, so I can't check anything further right now. I'm fairly certain, though, that I couldn't highlight anything during the info screen.

I had no reason to enter the I2C area. (Assuming that is an area, I'll check it out tomorrow.)

But as I turned on the television this afternoon I had some real gremlins happening (which ended with the television being on antennae 11-1. I don't even use antennae settings.) So either my television is beginning to lose it, or my remote's getting wacky. So if I2C is the first setting in the service menu, it's possible my remote sent some inputs it shouldn't have. My remote tends to get stuck and NOT send signals though. I've never really had problems with it sending additional signals.
post #2335 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by superleo View Post

I can relate very much to that. I had to wait for every one in my family to be gone for a vacation, and I had the missforune to had to stayed, then I had the time to do it. Anyways, great job.

Man I tell ya Leo, my picture looks great. Should have done it a while back. I'll take some shots later & post them
post #2336 of 4822
hey guys i had some time to take a few shots tonight, (parents are out of the house) and figgered i'd post them, yeah i know theyre small and a tad dark, but thats from the camera.
1080i over component






those were the best of the bunch. im going to get some bigger ones in a few minutes.
post #2337 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by I WANT TO LEARN View Post

I has a bug on my screen several months ago twice in the same week but I have not seen it since. I thought it was a live creature that somehow got into the screen.

I have had spiders inside the last 3 CRT RPTVs I have had. It happens. You gotta remove the viewscreen and get it outa there, if you don't want to suffer its repeated return.

Or its babies...




Mr Bob
post #2338 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul33993 View Post

I tried all three auto-links settings, but as expected it didn't change anything.

It all happened so quickly, I can't be 100 percent sure. But yeah, I turned on the television, rapidly did the 8-input-select code and I'm pretty sure I lost the picture as soon as the service menu appeared. But I can't be positive it was instantaneous.

I left the house and am gonna be gone till tomorrow, so I can't check anything further right now. I'm fairly certain, though, that I couldn't highlight anything during the info screen.

I had no reason to enter the I2C area. (Assuming that is an area, I'll check it out tomorrow.)

But as I turned on the television this afternoon I had some real gremlins happening (which ended with the television being on antennae 11-1. I don't even use antennae settings.) So either my television is beginning to lose it, or my remote's getting wacky. So if I2C is the first setting in the service menu, it's possible my remote sent some inputs it shouldn't have. My remote tends to get stuck and NOT send signals though. I've never really had problems with it sending additional signals.

Any chance you're using a universal remote that has accidentally been set to another modality - like DVDP or something - and one of those commands was sent instead of the command you thought you were sending?





Mr Bob
post #2339 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by brightdarkness View Post

hey guys i had some time to take a few shots tonight, (parents are out of the house) and figgered i'd post them, yeah i know theyre small and a tad dark, but thats from the camera.
1080i over component




those were the best of the bunch. im going to get some bigger ones in a few minutes.


They look pretty dim, both on the Brightness setting and the overall light level/Contrast...

Sharp and clear, tho.


Mr Bob
post #2340 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by BFJ 96 View Post

We'll after almost 3 years, I finally opened-up the back of my HITACHI to see how she was looking. Mr. Bob you were right, my lenses were very dirty. Minor problem. NO Sprayway, so I used a little dish-washing liquid diluted with water & began to clean. I clean them 3 times, even thought after the 2nd time the lenses looked good. I then used a micro-fiber cloth & gently wiped each lenses to get rid of any extra particles. I wanted to black-out the inside but didn't have the right tools.

I then turned the set-on & once the guns warmed-up the picture was simply ..... As I type this I'm watch Ratituoille with my grandson & the picture is stunning & my whites look white

And to think my mind keeps telling me it's time to move-on to a Flat-Panel...

EDIT: Here's a quick DVR Grab in 1080i... Sorry for the glare on the left side kitchen light is on. The wife is preparing some dishes for a family get together tomorrow


Looks pretty 3D on that shot!




Mr Bob
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