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Hitachi 51/57/65F59A CRT RPTV Tweaks Thread - Page 151

post #4501 of 4822
Does anyone know if the screen of a 57F710S would fit the 57F59A that I have?


My screen has been cracked for months and a local guy has a dead 710 selling on Craigslist for $50 with a perfect screen.

Thanks
post #4502 of 4822
Usually within the same brand name, a 57" is a 57" is a 57".

b
post #4503 of 4822
Good deal..I may break down and take a chance since the guy lives nearby...only other issue is how to dispose of the used beast once I take out the screen.


Thanks
post #4504 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee Bailey View Post

Blue is tracking, it is just running out of steam. That's why you sometimes have to bring the other two down to bring blue up.

Just saying that messing with the trim pots is the last thing you should do. Also, you didn't answer my question on your meter status.

Time for Mr. Bob to make a visit to your TV!

BTW, I still use a RPTV, it just happens to use LEDs and a light engine instead of CRTs!

How are you liking your tv? How does it stack up against the Hitachi you had previously? I'm really interested in knowing your honest opinion.
post #4505 of 4822
Just wanted to take the opportunity to post a picture of my awesome tv, even if I have already...


post #4506 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian Faith View Post

Does anyone know if the screen of a 57F710S would fit the 57F59A that I have?


My screen has been cracked for months and a local guy has a dead 710 selling on Craigslist for $50 with a perfect screen.

Thanks

It should. My little one cracked the screen on my 51F59A and I ended up replacing it with a bezel/screen from a 51F710A. I think it comes with an extra screen for protection which introduces a lot of glare but it's mostly worth it due to extra protection. Also the bezel on the xxF710 is grey instead of black and doesn't quite match the grey on the xxF59A. Here's what my 51F59A looks like with the 51F710A bezel/screen:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=4451

I'd get it ASAP!
post #4507 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordcloud View Post

Just wanted to take the opportunity to post a picture of my awesome tv, even if I have already...



Great shot! Send us one without the room lighting interfering tho, like it is doing here -

b
post #4508 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordcloud View Post

Just wanted to take the opportunity to post a picture of my awesome tv, even if I have already...

Gee, I wonder what that would look like to a meter.
That's right! You have one!
Oh, right, it's MINE!
Done yet?
Michael
post #4509 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by |Tch0rT| View Post
Also the bezel on the xxF710 is grey instead of black and doesn't quite match the grey on the xxF59A.
It's not that hard to take the screens out and put them in the other frame. You may want to take the old one apart first to see what's involved. It is, of course, possible to crack everything again, so you need to wear gloves (to keep from getting fingerprints on the screens) and to keep everything as flat as possible.
Or just keep the room dark!
post #4510 of 4822
Hey guys sorry for being LOA for so long. Life has been hectic. I sent Michael and Lordcloud messages just so you guys know.

My set still has that fluctuation in it but not as frequent as before. I would call it a loss of contrast and color and then a return. Probably a voltage issues. I dont know but it happens less than before so I can live with it for now.

I'm also considering a ceiling mounted CRT projector system as a possible replacement if this one goes. Any thoughts or tips?
post #4511 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordcloud View Post
How are you liking your tv? How does it stack up against the Hitachi you had previously? I'm really interested in knowing your honest opinion.
I'll be honest. Once I calibrated the DLP, it has a gorgeous picture! I would put it ahead of the Hitachi. Though I definitely enjoyed that set as well.
post #4512 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post
It's not that hard to take the screens out and put them in the other frame. You may want to take the old one apart first to see what's involved. It is, of course, possible to crack everything again, so you need to wear gloves (to keep from getting fingerprints on the screens) and to keep everything as flat as possible.
Or just keep the room dark!
And when you are handling that lenticular, the one with the vertical ribs, be sure to NOT turn it vertical! It's much weaker in that direction. Keep it in the direction it's presently in.

And don't lay either layer down on the floor where they will pick up debris from their own static fields -

b
post #4513 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustang68 View Post
Hey guys sorry for being LOA for so long. Life has been hectic. I sent Michael and Lordcloud messages just so you guys know.

My set still has that fluctuation in it but not as frequent as before. I would call it a loss of contrast and color and then a return. Probably a voltage issues. I dont know but it happens less than before so I can live with it for now.

I'm also considering a ceiling mounted CRT projector system as a possible replacement if this one goes. Any thoughts or tips?
Any of the nice ceiling pjs capable of line doubling/tripling will do a superb job of 1080i/p HD, rendering pix far better now than ANY video material available back when they were designed and built! There was no HD then! Yet they were built to interpret any scanrate available then, and that now applies to today's HD scanrates, without any modifications needed or even possible, at the projectors. They are ready to go as we speak.

The difference between even the best $20,000 Faroudja scaler of its time on the best 480i material of that time period vs. today's 1080i/p HD sent directly to those same vintage sets from back then is head and shoulders/night and day. No contest. HD wins hands down on these projectors, every time. Properly dialed in ceiling pjs from their "bygone era" on today's 1080p HD simply smoke everything else out there, including CRT RPTVs, where the differences are subtle but still there. See the Screenshot War!!!!!!!! thread for examples of primo, primo screenshots from them.

As such I encourage everyone to find one locally, buy it for pennies on the dollar, and call me! I will trick it out like you would not believe -




b
post #4514 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Any of the nice ceiling pjs capable of line doubling/tripling will do a superb job of 1080i/p HD, rendering pix far better now than ANY video material available back when they were designed and built! There was no HD then! Yet they were built to interpret any scanrate available then, and that now applies to today's HD scanrates, without any modifications needed or even possible, at the projectors. They are ready to go as we speak.

The difference between even the best $20,000 Faroudja scaler of its time on the best 480i material of that time period vs. today's 1080i/p HD sent directly to those same vintage sets from back then is head and shoulders/night and day. No contest. HD wins hands down on these projectors, every time. Properly dialed in ceiling pjs from their "bygone era" on today's 1080p HD simply smoke everything else out there, including CRT RPTVs, where the differences are subtle but still there. See the Screenshot War!!!!!!!! thread for examples of primo, primo screenshots from them.

As such I encourage everyone to find one locally, buy it for pennies on the dollar, and call me! I will trick it out like you would not believe -




b

Sounds cool. I was wondering just how good they could be. I also looked at the DLP and LCD versions but I'm not so sure about those. Maybe its that one lense only projecting every color through it. I really dont know the science of it all but what I'm really looking for is a FP with the quality of my current set. I have to tell you guys that I still think the CRT RP sets just look so much better than even the new LCD/LED's.
post #4515 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustang68 View Post

Sounds cool. I was wondering just how good they could be. I also looked at the DLP and LCD versions but I'm not so sure about those. Maybe its that one lense only projecting every color through it. I really dont know the science of it all but what I'm really looking for is a FP with the quality of my current set. I have to tell you guys that I still think the CRT RP sets just look so much better than even the new LCD/LED's.

One very important thing to consider with FP is light control. The room does not need to be pitch black, but if you really want the best contrast you can have the darker the room the better, but not a must. And of course to avoid direct light of any kind to the screen.

To me, CRT still king, now that doesn't come easy, CRTs need a lot more set up work and upkeep to maintain a top notch PQ, but they are as capable as the newer projectors.

Another major draw is picture size, you could have a 110" diagonal picture with no problem.

you can search videogon and curtpalme sites to get an idea where prices for CRTs are.
post #4516 of 4822
And in case anybody has any doubts, I left out the word CRT in my post above, when talking about ceiling projectors. But all comments made in my last post refer to CRT (usually front) ceiling projectors, the triple gun kind. In case anybody has any doubts...



Mustang, the front-firing ceiling pjs were many times as expensive as our CRT RPTVs and had advanced electronics that ours just didn't have. So yes they will look better than our RPTV versions. I have a Barco Data 800 ceiling pj in my garage that I have used on my sun room wall, and with an even bigger picture than my 73" Mit, it is still crisper and with more depth than the Mit. And that's with 8" guns vs. my Mit's 9" guns.

Leo, if you do a rear projecting scenario using a front projector, you can get away with a lot more room lighting before starting to compromise those fine, inky blacks. A reflecting screen will compromise those blacks by reflecting back in the blacks whatever is going on in the room as far as ambient lighting goes. In a rear projecting scenario where everything behind the translucent screen - or in best case scenario, the same kind of fresnel/lenticular sandwich screens our CRT RPTVs use - absorbs that ambient light and keeps the blacks much much darker than a front projection scenario does, when factoring in the picture-compromising effects of ambient room lighting. When of course the intrepid calibrator or installer who set the whole thing up makes sure everything behind that screen is either blackened or black already!

Which is one reason our CRT RPTVs do so much better in the daytime than front projection does. It would be very effective even with a translucent screen, but since ours are the fresnel/lenticular kind - the best - our projected light levels get gathered and aimed and basically turbo-torch beamed at us, whenever we are sitting within the horizontal sweet spot of a horizontal line drawn across the room straight out from the screen. Alert owners/viewers even make sure their screens are pointed slightly down if necessary, to accommodate couches that make eye levels lower than the actual horizontal line firing straight out from the screen's center.

I know in your viewing room this is unnecessary, but in mine I use a 2x4 under the rear of my Mit to tilt it down just enough to have the sweet spot hitting my eyes whenever I am sitting on that couch, rendering my eyes the highest light levels possible in the current setup.



b
post #4517 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

...



Leo, if you do a rear projecting scenario using a front projector, you can get away with a lot more room lighting before starting to compromise those fine, inky blacks. A reflecting screen will compromise those blacks by reflecting back in the blacks whatever is going on in the room as far as ambient lighting goes. In a rear projecting scenario where everything behind the translucent screen - or in best case scenario, the same kind of fresnel/lenticular sandwich screens our CRT RPTVs use - absorbs that ambient light and keeps the blacks much much darker than a front projection scenario does, when factoring in the picture-compromising effects of ambient room lighting. When of course the intrepid calibrator or installer who set the whole thing up makes sure everything behind that screen is either blackened or black already!

...


b

I've experimented and used rear projection using spandex for DJing setup, and actually works pretty well. Of course the PQ and fidelity is not quite to the standards for movie watching, but works very well.



post #4518 of 4822
Wow, Leo, that looks great! In the second pic it almost looks like you have a triple-gun ceiling pj behind it, throwing the image. I know that's not the case, what looks like that is simply your party lighting mounted to the frame, but...

Fantastic!


b
post #4519 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee Bailey View Post

I'll be honest. Once I calibrated the DLP, it has a gorgeous picture! I would put it ahead of the Hitachi. Though I definitely enjoyed that set as well.

I like the honesty. What paramaters of the picture would you rate as above the Hitachi, and to what extent?
post #4520 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordcloud View Post

I like the honesty. What paramaters of the picture would you rate as above the Hitachi, and to what extent?

First off, the resolution. Being a full 1920 x 1080 screen does make a difference, though being a RPTV, there is still some overscan.
For me, the depth of the picture has increased as well.
Having a 2D adjustable CMS enables me to get a almost measurably perfect Color Saturation and Hue.


Minuses:
Black levels look excellent with program materials, but not with the actual test patterns. At full screen 0% black, it is obvious the screen is not pitch black.
The RED Luminance is high, and cannot be brought down any other way than with the COLOR control.
post #4521 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee Bailey View Post

First off, the resolution. Being a full 1920 x 1080 screen does make a difference, though being a RPTV, there is still some overscan.
For me, the depth of the picture has increased as well.
Having a 2D adjustable CMS enables me to get a almost measurably perfect Color Saturation and Hue.


Minuses:
Black levels look excellent with program materials, but not with the actual test patterns. At full screen 0% black, it is obvious the screen is not pitch black.
The RED Luminance is high, and cannot be brought down any other way than with the COLOR control.

Even movie film is not completely black. Watch for that next time you're out at the movies when the screen goes black.

It's the contrast ratio - static AND dynamic - that tells the real story. Organic LED has had the best CR I have seen yet, at a true 1 million:1 contrast ratio, static and dynamic. At the time I saw it, Sony was the only brand that had achieved it with organic LED yet, but I missed this year's CES and perhaps some changes are in play that I don't know about yet.

If the grayscale is dead on but the red luminance is too high, that's the classic definition of red push, and involves the color decoding. And you need special registers to be able to alter that. The late model Hitachis all have that, either in sm or User menu depending on model and year.

Or use component and install a variable attenuator to the Pr line, and adjust accordingly. But if you don't use HDMI on a digital set like a DLP, you'll lose your 1:1, bit to bit pixel mapping.

b
post #4522 of 4822
I apologize if this problem has already been addressed. The thread is so long now I could not find it if it was.
I have had this TV for almost 5 years now. The picture if beautiful! However, I recently noticed a horizontal band or line that scrolls up the screen. It is more noticeable with lighter backgrounds (especially white). Since I watch a lot of hockey, it is even more noticeable. Is there a fix for this? Thanks!
post #4523 of 4822
Hum bar, from bad grounding, which can be either too much - ground loop - or too little - ingress noise.

Try disonnecting everything and start with one thing and keep reconnecting your sources, and see when the bar kicks in.

I have seen this mostly on cable, where if you disco the coax, the problem disappears. In which case you install a ground isolator in series with your coax from the cable - or its box - to your set. This allows the signal to get thru unimpeded and still shielded, but without the 2 grounds actually touching each other.

You can make one yourself by using 2 baluns and connecting the flat wire ends to each other, allowing each of the coax other ends to go to the other coaxes involved.

b
post #4524 of 4822
Bob, thanks for helping. I tried what you said but still have the translucent band. I even tried disconnecting other household items to no avail. Any other advice?
post #4525 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronpavlick View Post

Bob, thanks for helping. I tried what you said but still have the translucent band. I even tried disconnecting other household items to no avail. Any other advice?

Is the signal coming from a satellite feed? If so try grounding your dish, it sure sounds like a ground loop.
post #4526 of 4822
Right. That's all I know, myself. If you have an old VCR, send in an RF modulated signal on ch. 3 or 4 with all other devices completely out of circuit - disconnected. Make sure the power cords from both your VCR and your display go to the same wall socket or power strip.

If the bar disappears, keep hooking up devices till you get the bar again. If it's still there, you may have an internal grounding problem inside your display.

These boards only go so far. Eventually you may have to actually spring for some live local technical help!



b
post #4527 of 4822
Help here. Anyone know anything good or bad about this FP model

NEC 9PG Plus CRT Projector

I can get one for under $100 but would need to ship it from Kansas or some other location to TX.
post #4528 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustang68 View Post

Help here. Anyone know anything good or bad about this FP model

NEC 9PG Plus CRT Projector

I can get one for under $100 but would need to ship it from Kansas or some other location to TX.

One of the best places for CRTs FP

http://www.curtpalme.com/CRTforSale_Intermediate.shtm
post #4529 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustang68 View Post

Help here. Anyone know anything good or bad about this FP model

NEC 9PG Plus CRT Projector

I can get one for under $100 but would need to ship it from Kansas or some other location to TX.

One of the finest. Make sure it has relatively low hours and has no screenburn.

b
post #4530 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by superleo View Post

One of the best places for CRTs FP

http://www.curtpalme.com/CRTforSale_Intermediate.shtm

Yea I looked there too. I was going to mount this in my closet and frame a hole from there into my living room. That way I would not have to ceiling mount it. No space required. However the wall is on 16" centers and the projector is wider than that. I'm not about to move a stud just to get a projector in there. Other than that the CRT projectors are to big for my living room with its 8' ceiling.

The LCD's, DLP and other types will fit though due to their size. I like the idea of a projector so I need to consider everything. Here it is on Ebay. Can you guys look at these pics and tell me what you think. Is that burn in on the shot with the three guns.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
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