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Hitachi 51/57/65F59A CRT RPTV Tweaks Thread - Page 154

post #4591 of 4822
Good list.

Don't forget about the optical focusing, I would recommend using the Cantilever Technique. You can find info about that in my video on the subject at my channel on youtube (see my sig).

The focus block pots do the focusing on the CRT faces, the Cantilever Technique focusing is for the projection of that image and involves the lenses themselves.

I am available for phone consultation if you want a calibrator's take on how to do any of those steps you mentioned.

wink.gif

b
post #4592 of 4822
i want to forward my audio coming in from HDMI input on my 51f59a to soundbar(samsung HW-E450C/ZA-RB)

but it seems that i cannot do it (per userguide). the optical out works only for the digital tuner on TV... i also read somewhere that a digital coaxial to optical converter might work.. is that true? if not what other options am i looking at so i can control soundbar volume using TV remote..

the soundbar has HDMI and optical inputs...
post #4593 of 4822
Quote:
i want to forward my audio coming in from HDMI input on my 51f59a to soundbar(samsung HW-E450C/ZA-RB).

Nothing comes FROM an input, and I don't believe Hit provides an output at the TV for the digital audio except as you say, for the built-in tuner. Which is not what you need for playing bluray or a STB. You need to parallel your signal material that's getting TO your TV's input and make it also appear somewhere else - in this case your soundbar.

Hopefully your AVR has HDMI inputs and outputs, which would allow your HDMI signal from whatever source you are running at that time to get interpreted and amplified by your AVR, and then that volume controlled digital audio content sent out again as well. In which case the HDMI OP of the AVR would go straight to the soundbar and be controllable by the AVR's volume control.

If not you may have to get either splitting or switching of your HDMI signal, so that one can go to the soundbar while the other goes to the amp. In which case each would be independently controlled, volumewise. Not the best scenario...

Or use optical from your signal source and go to the soundbar, while the HDMI from the source goes to your amp. In which case you may need switching if you have more than one signal source - like a bluray and a STB.

It's a rather complicated equation, I grant you!

wink.gif

b
Edited by Mr Bob - 11/26/12 at 8:13am
post #4594 of 4822
do you know where i can get a mirror for my hitachi 51f710a tried to get to the highreflectivemirror web site but link must have been broken.. thanks
post #4595 of 4822
Try Hitachi directly. They also have a rebuilder who might have spare mirrors. Can't remember its name right now, but somebody here will probably know. If you want me to get you one contact me directly, I have access to Hitachi as a repair servicer. And other brands.

b
post #4596 of 4822
Hello, new to avs.

Purchased a 65F59A today without the remote. frown.gif

Got it home and it worked fine for 30min. Then went red for a split second and shut off.
When turned back on, the picture had a red tint to it.
Left it off for a while and when turned on again everything was fine.
Also, the sound quits working sometimes when it happens... Strange

Anyhow, after reading for a few hours I am no closer to finding a solution especially
since I don't have the remote for it.

I'd ask if this would be an easy fix for me but I think the better course of action
is to ask:

Can someone please direct me to someone in my area that is a guru on these sets...

I need it fixed by an expert...

You can shoot me an email @ Orbitter0@gmail.com

Oh, btw... I live in Bellingham, WA which is about 70miles north of Seattle
post #4597 of 4822
hi Bob, thanks for your reply.. it would be great if you know of someone that may have A MIRROR FOR MY HITACHI 51F710A as it has been discontinued through sears.. the part number is KSO7996...or what it would cost through you.. I found one for a hitachi 50 inch but the part number is not the same.. thanks lonnie
post #4598 of 4822
This is something my business does on a paid basis, so contact me directly and I'll see what I can do. Best to not conduct $ related transactions on this site, they like to keep it an all volunteer thingamagig here -

b
post #4599 of 4822
Quote:
Originally Posted by Orbitter View Post

Hello, new to avs.
Purchased a 65F59A today without the remote. frown.gif
Got it home and it worked fine for 30min. Then went red for a split second and shut off.
When turned back on, the picture had a red tint to it.
Left it off for a while and when turned on again everything was fine.
Also, the sound quits working sometimes when it happens... Strange
Anyhow, after reading for a few hours I am no closer to finding a solution especially
since I don't have the remote for it.
I'd ask if this would be an easy fix for me but I think the better course of action
is to ask:
Can someone please direct me to someone in my area that is a guru on these sets...
I need it fixed by an expert...
You can shoot me an email @ Orbitter0@gmail.com
Oh, btw... I live in Bellingham, WA which is about 70miles north of Seattle


I have seen this type of behavior on the Pioneer Elite and non-Elite power supply boards of the 510/610/710 model year. I have been successfully repairing them for years and restoring totally reliable operation again permanently, via comprehensive resoldering of virtually the entire board. Not something you want to try unless you are professionally experienced at it already. There's far too much that can go wrong, which could damage the rest of your set.

Contact me directly and we can talk about it.

b
post #4600 of 4822
I am new to the AVS site and would like to thank you all for the help and sharing of information for the rest of us. Thanks again.
post #4601 of 4822
Welcome!

wink.gif

b
post #4602 of 4822
This is just one of 5 threads about Hitachi CRT sets you might want to check out.

b
post #4603 of 4822
the issue i am having is on a 57F59A - i have a ps3 connected via componant cables and a standard coax cable line hooked up. regardless of the input, at random times the screen just flicks to black. the red power button stays on, but i will hear a quick static sound...almost a popping noise....and the screen will turn black. i will have to turn the tv off and back on, but its getting worse to the point where i cant watch tv anymore.

only fix i found was to unplug the tv for about 30 mins to reset the board or something. that didnt work.

i also saw some info that it could be the Capacitors and i may need to solder new ones to the board. i got the tv in 2006
post #4604 of 4822
Sounds like there's a cold solder joint somewhere in your set. Could be on the power supply board which feeds a certain section, or in that section. If it goes black, you may need to trace out the signal path with an oscilloscope. Or if you are willing to take on the responsibility of working with live circuits, you might want to try manipulating the board by tapping on it with a non-conductive item like a pencil with an eraser on it, or giving it little mechanical shocks with a screwdriver handle with the shank taped up and insulated.

But this is potentially a very dangerous thing to do, so don't even approach this situation unless you know electronics and are experienced in it. Potentially deadly voltages are in there, so don't just rush in - don't even go in unless you have the training and the carefulness it takes to keep yourself safe.

b
post #4605 of 4822
Hey guys Im back after a long break. I retired and moved around. Almost retired my Hitachi 51f59a but put it in storage instead. That was more than a year ago. Im having it shipped to my new place. Everyone thought I was nuts to stay with it but the pic is so great and I have put so much work and time into it I couldnt do it. Plus I really believe the pic is better than whats out there. So if any of you remember me I have done darn near every tweak there is but a few. I moved the guns closer to the mirror, schemper&^%$% whatever, black out, shimmed the outside guns, put up a shield in front of the guns and a whole lot of adjustment tweaks. Some done with phone consults with Mr. Bob, which saved me in a grayscale nightmare once.

I turned it on and it looked good. Hope the shipping goes well. I will need to remember a lot of the adjustment tweaks but Im sure I will get there. Ordering a new remote this week too. The old one grew legs and ran off.
post #4606 of 4822
Welcome back

Retiring myself in a year and deciding what to do with my 65F59a. Works great looks great but no one in my family wants the 300 pound+ breast. So I guess storage it goes until I figure out where I end up. tongue.gif
post #4607 of 4822
Got my TV in yesterday. After 16 months of waiting and then a 17 hour trip it was fine. In fact it was great. The colors are still dialed in on my primary input. Gray scale and everything. I know because I watched Avatar in BR and it rocked. Alignment is off a little but I need my remote to adjust it. That comes in next week. Then I can move around in the service menu and check things out. Incredible how good the set looks. I need to go back and find the sequence for the remote to enter service menu and all my other old tricks like raster control ect...The best thing is its here.
post #4608 of 4822
If you're doing the off, hold 2 buttons then on again technique, don't allow more than 3 seconds between the off and on again. I always advise waiting 10 seconds between an off and on, but this is the exception.

b
post #4609 of 4822
Got my replacement remote from a great place online. Its even better than the original. Everything is the same but the remote itself is built a little more sturdy. Dialed in the grid and it looks fantastic. Played one movie on it and saw some of the whites blooming. I know I used to adjust that over strong white setting in several places in the service menu but can't remember which values they were. My cheat list was lost so now Im writing down all the values again. I cant remember if it was Youtg or what I used to control that bloom.
post #4610 of 4822
Personally I never change the picture contrast in the service menu, which is what controls the blooming. I only change how brilliant the actual grid lines and menu text are, take them down to the same average light level as the picture itself. The picture light level can be controlled in the user menu, it's the Contrast.

b
post #4611 of 4822
Yea probably not bad advice. However I run contrast at around 35, which is low to me but provides a great pic. These sets dont need that crazy high contrast once they are tweaked like the new tech. So I have to go back in and find the correct setting that creates the slight bloom. Maybe someone remembers the values that effect that on this set so I dont have to do a lot of trial and error. Whites in general dont seem terribly off. Its just when that white is offset with a darker background that they really have an overpowering effect.
post #4612 of 4822
A Shout out for "Lastbutnotleast":

I want to give a big, public thank you to Michael for helping guide me through the decision to purchase and setup the Darbee Darblet DVP 5000...and mating it with my Hitachi 65F59. I was right on the bubble of selling the Hitachi on Craigslist and buying a new 60" Panasonic Plasma. Michael soldier slapped me back to reality and convinced me to tweak the Hitachi again and go with the Darblet. And what an amazing difference it has made. I'm embarrassed to say this...but he also helped me find the elusive blue button in the Hitachi (which was right in front of my nose all of the time. ALbeit buried behind a jungle of cables. For those who haven't tried this combo yet...you are missing a ton of what HD can be like with CRT. You get the sharpness of LED/LCD along with the superior blacks and unmatched rich colors of CRT. And as an added bonus...the image becomes so clear and deep that it is like 3D depth inscreen. You gotta experience it to believe it. But I am now an official CRT lifer. Like Michael said..."You gotta pry my Hitachi from my cold dead hands". This combination just blows the thin panel tech away. Maybe 4Kx2K OLED will give it a run. But I'm not interested at those nose bleed prices. Again...Thanks Michael...for all of the great calibration tips too.
post #4613 of 4822
Just whipped out my DVE disc and ran through the menu. Really I only have two issues. Grayscale looks great. Decoder is good. Contrast is fine. However I think Im a little confused on the black level (brightness( setting. In the Pluge where there is a grayscale pattern in the middle and bars on the sides I may have the thinking turned around. Does DVE recommend that there be, just slightly two bars remaining that can be seen. I think they are the outermost bars? Because with that setting in a pitch dark room my set is to bright. So I turn it down to 50% and there are no bars showing but it looks better. However I have tweaked the dark gain and white levels of my set in the service menu. I dont thnk that would have an effect on the pattern though? It still can be adjusted in the regular menu.

The other thing is the size of the picture in relation to the screen. Ever since the shimming mod I have a little more of the picture on bottom than on top. There is always about a quarter of an inch that does not fill on top. I know how to move H/V but is there a setting that expands the pic to fill the screen?

At any rate I can't remember all the settings. Did we ever post a list of different settings and what they did? Its eluding my searches so far if we did. Any help!
post #4614 of 4822
Great to have you back!


The patterns are there for reference. Don't allow them to take over. What looks best to you, the viewer, is what counts. Just make sure that all shadow detail is showing, while blacks stay clamped to black properly. If the outermost black bars have to disappear to make that happen, so be it.

Some players show those outermost black bars, some do not, no matter where your black level/brightness settings are set. Depends on the player. The players that show those bars will deliver the best shadow detail. I find that the Sony bluray players will deliver the black bars in HDMI, but not on component output. Regardless of whether that BDP is embedded in a PS3 or not. On component they just don't show up, even with brightness up full. On HDMI yes, on component no.

At the tail end of my calibrations, I usually play with various kinds of video content to get the brightness setting idealized. I say idealized rather than correct, because one setting may not apply to all video material. I strive to simply wind up with a setting in service menu that does the best brightness on most of the content. That's the fully idealized setting. Different content may still require different settings later, as you get to it. On my 73" Mit, I run my brightness anywhere from 40 to 50 out of a possible 63, depending on the needs of that particular content. 44 is my usual, and that covers most content.

I usually do this in sm, but on my set when I set everything up to be idealized at 31, black crush was introduced that I could not get rid of. So I had to go back to the factory settings, which require an elevated level of brightness settings in User.

Remember, Joe Kane designed DVE using the finest projectors available, with superb response characteristics on all fronts. Our sets will not have the capacities of those much more expensive circuits. You have to calibrate accordingly. Trust your eyes.


On that pesky 1/4", no you don't want to just expand your picture to cover it. Expanding size always contorts it a bit, your geometry and convergence will be affected. I would recommend you loosen up whatever is holding your shimming blocks in place and pull your entire array out a bit, toward you, with the screen off the set. That will place the image a little higher on the screen than it is now.

b
post #4615 of 4822
I couldn't find a 51uwx-20b tweak thread so hopefully the tweaks still apply.
I have the screen off and I want to clean the lens stacks.
First I need to remove them safely without spilling the coolant.
There are 4 small bolts directly around the bottom edge of each lens stack, i had seen mention in another thread of those being the correct bolts to remove only the lens stacks without spilling the coolant?

Next will be figuring out what to use to clean them with, I believe it was Hockeytown fan who had good success with run of the mill dish detergent/soap?
I don't have much other than small bottles of eyeglass cleaner (possibly ammonia free?) and Windex (perhaps too strong?).

Beyond just a cleaning the most bothersome flaw of my Hitachi is the lens flares/haloing. It doesn't pop up much with average content, (movies), but it is very noticeable in stealth games like splinter cell (high contrast areas) even with the contrast at around 15%.

I'm hoping once I get the lenses cleaned up and put up something to block indirect light getting to the screen, I can then drop contrast, (because the image will be brighter when not shining through layers of dust), and minimize lens flares.

If that doesn't work, has anyone tried coating the lens cases with felt or painting the black plastic with black paint? I'm not sure what levels of heat there are inside the stacks and safety is a top priority.

Thanks in advance smile.gif
post #4616 of 4822
All these things are available directly from me if you want to do a phone consultation. I would definitely recommend that for the optics cleaning, as there are very fragile and vulnerable surfaces in there and you only get one chance to clean each one during your operation. If damaged, that's instant and permanent damage which is irreversible.

Flare can be reduced by the duvetyne operation and a lens hood. You should search those ops out. You might also want to search out the shimming operation for overscan reduction.

If you choose to search out the optics cleaning beware, as I have been misquoted many times out there on that issue. Best to stick with me directly on that. I don't put out write-ups on that subject, I do it all directly and live on the phone, so that you are safeguarded directly against any landmines out there.

b
Edited by Mr Bob - 7/14/13 at 12:59pm
post #4617 of 4822
I'm not really all that worried about screwing something up. Worse case scenario I damage something and no one would want to haul it away in a year or two.
I'll be moving to a front projection setup soon and i'll pass this along to a friend of mine, so I just want to get some basic tweaks and cleaning done on it to make it look as good as possible. No one in my area would pay a dime for it unfortunately, so I don't feel like putting any money into it.

If the lens hood reduces haloing that's great news. I had thought the lens flare we're in the projected image itself, not the access light hitting the screen.

I'll line the cabinet with some black felt or duvetyne as well, however everything except the screws and a couple board edges are painted black in mine, hopefully it will still make a difference.

Over scan reduction isn't an issue because it's hooked up to a media pc, and those last 70-80 pixels aren't worth the effort of shimming to me.

So, 4 screws around the base of each lens stack right? Making sure to keep track of how they are arranged. I suppose i'll also need to refocus when i'm done.

Thanks smile.gif
post #4618 of 4822
No, but if you remove the lenses to do the deeper optics cleaning, chances are you'll need to redo your crosshairs positioning of the master images, as those lenses never go back on exactly where they came off. Do them one at a time before proceeding to the next so you can't get them mixed up, and be sure to orient the wingnuts back exactly the direction each came off.

As far as it'll get carted away to the dump anyway, sorry can't help you there. We on these threads believe in CRT as one of the finest HD formats ever designed, and do not consider them easily discarded machines, and thus expendable.

No, the true value of these sets is no longer in the reselling of them, it's in the owning of them and the incredibly pristine and lifelike images they can still make, at practically any age, without many of the bringdowns that owners have to accept with the new technologies.

b
Edited by Mr Bob - 7/14/13 at 10:21pm
post #4619 of 4822
First thanks Bob for the info on my set. That helps a lot on brightness.

Second for Mik James. One I agree with Bob. Going into the deeper optics might sound easy but there is a lot of room for error. An error is big down there. Like the coolant. I phone consulted with Bob on that before hand and it was a blessing. There are a few pitfalls waiting for you. Yes you are going to have to do a some re-alignment with your cross hairs. Also unless you are seeing a lot of dust on that inside lens I would just do the top one. Mine had a piece of something in the blue bottom lens. So I had too do something. It was nerve racking. Once done they tend to stay clean though. (inner not top)

Good luck. I guess your opting out of CRT but I have to tell you something. I just shipped my stored set to myself. I had been in stores for 14 months looking at the other tech and trying to decide what to do. I decide to ship it to myself and it rocked the other sets. It matches the LED/LCD sets that cost $2000 plus. IMOH it beats them in many areas. So good luck with the project but be careful.
post #4620 of 4822
I think there are sufficient reasons to look into new displays. I'm not talking about led/lcd flat panels. I'm talking about high end lcos and dlp projection.
Crt may be the best Hd tech ever made, but a 1080i rear projection set in my opinion isn't the best of what crt has to offer, definitely not without a lot of work anyways.

There are many pros and cons of each display tech, one of the greatest pros of crt's currently is the minimal cost for a good picture. Eventually, at least for me, it'll be time to move on to a more energy efficient, much larger image.

The set is 10 years old now and it's definitely time to clean all of the lenses. So 4 screws around each lens casing yes?
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