Originally Posted by Mustang68
Yes I am using the cantilever technique. I was able to get focus pretty good. Ended up having to adjust all three slightly, which makes more sense. Im not sure about even focus across the whole screen. I, and others, on these mits
have had issues with the edges pre shim and post shim. I could probably get an even focus across the whole screen if I chose to sacrifice a lot of real estate of super fine focus. My red is good but one side is a little more out than the other. Nothing that bothers me much. Blue is the same. I need to schemp the blue. The red is already done.
Mit? I thought you had a Hit.
If the red is already schemped, how can it be "good but one side is a little more out than the other"? The whole point of the sch is to make both sides equal.
I was able to get the screen filled up but with several issues. One is that a DVE geometry screen material will not fill the whole screen. I have usable picture surface but the DVE screens dont stretch to fill it. Im using the 1080i 16x9 aspect. So the top on the geometry shows 3.5 percent and the bottom is 0. In reality the top is the same as the bottom at 0.
??? If the top shows 3.5% and the bottom 0, you know it's not centered vertically. The top and bottom numbers will be the same when it's accurately balanced vertically, top to bottom.
So if I knew of a way to stretch the pic Im thinking this may help. However that is just some crazy guess on my part. Material is not an issue. All but a sliver on the top and bottom of the screen displays usable surface for pics.
Sounds like your shim did too good a job and reduced the picture size too much. That you need to expand the pic out a bit at top and bottom, keeping in mind that if you are not symmetrical on your horizontal vs. your vertical you will get an oval whenever you actually want a circle.
If that exposes the aging footprint, take out some of your shim material and let the picture expand a bit back out towards how it used to be.
Second is that I have a replica remote that is exactly like the old remote. Design, buttons and everything. However I used the blue button to get into DCAM and to my great surprise I could not use Aspect to save the changes to ROM. Had to lose the DCAM changes and ended up doing it all in 117p. None of the sequences worked on the remote to get into DCAM. However the service menu sequence works and most of the buttons work as per the manual once in DCAM. I dont get it?
Sounds like you have to get the official remote for your set, not a replica. when I needed one and could not get one, Michael was good enough to send me his from the East Coast, whereupon I got it back to him as quickly as possible. Don't ask him, tho, he has had trouble getting back things he's loaned out. You might try online for an official one.
At any rate these are my future challenges. Pic is great. Grid is white all over and looks good. Focus is better too. I have never done the other Focus (electrostatic?) and was wondering what this actually accomplishes as well.
Optical is at the lenses, it's mechanical. Electrostatic is at the CRT faces themselves, the source of your picture. Having both razor sharp is essential.
Using the Cantilever Technique on grids from 480i/p DVDs - I recommend AVIA Widescreen Enhanced Circlehatch Grid - and keeping your scanrate at 480 allows you to dial in the shadows between your horizontal scanlines whether your electrostatic grid on your CRT faces is in focus yet or not. And the dashes that make up your vertical lines. When doing astigmatism correction, those dashes can help pin down where to put your magnetic rings, because they tilt in response to them. The best setting is when those tiny little dashes don't tilt but stay flat and horizontal. Among the various considerations for astig correction...
Ultimately going back and forth between the 2 types of focusing is best if needed while you have that 480i/p grid up there, even if that has to happen more than once.
bEdited by Mr Bob - 9/3/13 at 2:41pm