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Cam's Cinema Begins!

post #1 of 282
Thread Starter 
OK... Long story short. My house got hit by a tornado last April. I modified my floor plan to give me a bigger office upstairs. Since I do video...I decided to make the room a combo edit bay/ home theater. The room is 24' by 13.5' I am planning a false wall for the screen...about 2 feet from the wall. This leaves me 7 feet from the screen to the front of the first row of seats...3 feet for the seats...and then a 5 foot deep riser behind the first row. About 6 feet would be left for the edit bay. The false wall and the edit bay wall will prob take up about 1 foot.
I'm planning on a 110" to a 120" 2.35:1 SMX screen. I'm concerned that the front row of seats might be to close...and that the edit bay might be a little small...I DON"T KNOW! The house is almost finished framing...but I have a little time to figure out interior design and walls in the theater room. The theater will be fed from a central equipment room in the house...but the edit bay will also feed projects to the theater (for clients). Do I keep the edit bayin the theater room or try to put the bay elsewhere in the house? Are the dimensions I laid out above OK for 2 rows of seats and a 110" wide screen...or should I try to use the entire 22' (after screen wall) for the theater?

Please... some suggestions from this great community! Design, spacing, etc. All comments welcome.

post #2 of 282
I think that it would be better to have the edit room by the theater as opposed to a bedroom. You could also have a lobby/snack area there. Your design looks right.
post #3 of 282
I'll type this again as it was just lost.

I've got a vision for your room that you may not have thought of.
Consider making the edit bay a "projectionist booth" or control center design. Use a half height wall to separate the two spaces, Elevate the edit bay so you can look out over the theater when seated at your work station.

Put the rear surrounds on the far back wall and then you can move the second row of seating tight against the 1/2 wall.

Then you can use the theater as part of your editing process if you want to.

The edit bay will feel bigger since you won't have a full wall, and the theater will feel bigger. You can also have overflow seating in the edit bay. You may be able to narrow the edit bay a bit and move the front row back.

Another strategy to get the front row back a bit is to consider non-reclining seats for the second row.
post #4 of 282
Thread Starter 
Bigmouth... Thanks for your reply! This is just the kind of "out of the box" thinking I was looking for! I just left a message w/ my builder to talk over some options.
I will need to work out just how high the edit bay should be. The rear riser will be about 10 to 12 inches tall.

I'm thinking of standard "real theater" movie seats in the rear....they wont be as deep as some nice recliners...but I want to make sure I have enough legroom for the people sitting in them. I had calculated 5 feet long...but I might be able to get away with 4 feet long riser...giving me an extra foot of distance on the front row.

Here is a photo looking to the back of the room where the edit bay will be. The room entrance is on the rear left of the pic.

This is a photo from the common area looking into the theater entrance.

post #5 of 282
Glad to hear one of my ideas hit home. As for height I'd make it higher than the riser for sure, you've got so much head room with that ceiling.

You will need to be careful of the rear surround height and the height of the half wall. It shouldn't block the path of sound to the seats.
post #6 of 282
Thread Starter 
I was thinking of in-walls for the rear surround (on the half wall) ... and maybe adding a second set of surrounds (mirroring the rear wall) on the actual rear wall.
Both sets could be active...or I could choose which pair to use.

I got a great deal on a new in-wall THX certified surround speaker package...almost 70% off. So I will be using these to start off...and maybe upgrade later.
post #7 of 282
You could also make the dividing wall between the theater and the booth another frame and cloth only false wall. Your surround speakers can be hidden in the booth area and it frees up a lot of room for a better surround experience behind the back row.

post #8 of 282
Here is a pretty good looking "sit at bar" with bar bar stools behind the second row of seats, think edit booth instead and using desk chairs. It think the part wall shouldn't go too much higher 6-10 inchs max for sound purposes, Maybe the edit booth is one (maybe two) steps up from the riser height.


Your idea of inwalls in the half wall works too and it could go higher
post #9 of 282
I like BIGmouthinDC's idea too. Similar in concept to the folks that are doing bar areas in the back the the theater. So you could do bar height work surfaces and office chair(s) that are that height, you can find them in any office supply catalog. Or setup a riser to give you the appropriate elevation, which would give you more seating options. Hey, maybe a combination bar/edit station

I just wish I had the length to do that...

Good luck
post #10 of 282
Found a picture at google images that fit's my vision of this space.

The theater may have a few more seats than yours but you'll get the idea.

post #11 of 282
Thread Starter 
Bigmouth, That is AWESOME! I can really see the same concept flying in my HT.
My builder thought your idea was good as well. I'm thinking the edit bay floor can be another foot higher than the rear riser. The full ceiling height is 12' ... but i lose some of that in the vault around the edges of the room. The vault starts at 8' high. I need to do some simple renders to give him. I'll show him the photos you sent as well.
post #12 of 282
post #13 of 282
7' is definitely too close for a 110-120" screen - recommendation is usually 1.5x screen width, although many prefer to sit closer than that, even 1x screen width in some cases - a 110" diagonal 16:9 screen is about 96" wide - 7' = 84", so that's about 0.87x screen width. Go to a store with a projector similar to what you're considering, and view it for a bit at that screen width multiple, and see what you think - I would suspect most would find screendoor and head movement a problem at that distance.
post #14 of 282
Some strategies for the first row.

Keep the false wall width to an absolute minimum. maybe 18 inches.
Use non-reclining seats for second row. Like


28 inches for chair, 24 inch aisle. =52 inches.

Then the distance to the first row seating eye postion will be about

7.5 plus 2(seat front to eye) plus .67 (smaller platform) = 10.17 ft.

That would put you at 1.017 times a 120 inch 2.35 SMX screen. Will probably be OK with a 1080P projector or one that can handle 1X seating. Probably should check Rubens thread about distance and seeing the weave.
post #15 of 282
Thread Starter 
The 7 foot distance is calculated to the front of the theater seat...not the eye distance.
I'm planning on a 1080p projector. Prob. a Pearl...but I want to check out some others before I decide. I was already thinking I would make my rear riser about 5 feet in length...but I could prob. go to 4.5 feet using the real theater seats. I may be able to make the edit bay thinner as well...I have to doubel check the desk depth. I also may be able to push the screen wall back about a half a foot as well.
I saw the Ruby at a local Tweeter...and I was VERY close before I could see any screendoor...but it was not against an at screen either. I'll hop over to Ruben's thread and ask about the distance.
post #16 of 282
Thread Starter 
OK, I just did a really BAD render of the room...looking from the screen to the back.

Please don't pay attention to the color scheme...i just did shades to be able to tell the difference between different surfaces.

It kind of gives me an idea of the space...but I still need to figure out the height of the wall behind the theater seats.
post #17 of 282
You are making some great progress.

What type of projector mounting are you planning?

Pole from ceiling or attached to that rear wall? I'm sure it will depend on the choice of projector. Just curious if you've given that any thought and if that factors into the design process.
post #18 of 282
Thread Starter 
I'll be putting in a 1080p projector. I have seen the Sony models...but I want to look at some others as well. I know the Pearl puts out very little noise. I also want 2.35:1 so I will eventually get either a constant width or constant height setup. The mounting of the projector will depend on the half wall height behind the seats...or the throw distance of the projector. I think I would rather mount the projector on the half wall...but I could live with a pole mount from the ceiling if necessary.
post #19 of 282
Thread Starter 
OK...I re-measured the room today. I have an updated layout below. I moved the screen back 1 foot, the riser is 5 feet deep, and the edit bay is just shy of 6 feet deep. The walkway from the door to the theater has been expanded to 3 feet wide.
The half wall behind the rear riser (in front of the edit bay) is about 10.7 feet wide.
I'm thinking of actually making the rear riser 1 foot high and the edit bay another 1 or 1.5 feet high above the rear riser (so the edit bay floor would be about 2 to 2.5 feet higher than the room floor).

I'm thinking about railing (or low wall) along the side of the riser by the entrance walkway.

With the new changes and measurements...there should be about a 12 foot distance from the 110" screen to the front of the riser. This should give a viewing distance of around 11 feet for the front row. Also...I might make a 115 inch wide screen (SMX material)...115 inch screen would give me 2.04 feet on each side for curtains.

Now... I really want 2.35:1 aspect ratio for watching movies (and i love the look of a 2.35:1 screen).....but being in TV production, I will be working on many 16x9 projects. If I go constant height (and mask the sides)...the 16x9 would be pretty small. I think I may try to go with a constant width setup and mask the top or bottom of the screen for 2.35:1 movies. If the bottom mask is done right...the screen should look like a 2.35:1 screen...right? This setup should give me the full 110 inch width for both 2.35:1 and 16x9 video.

Any thoughts on the above info????????? Masking, CIH vs. CIW, 110" or 115" wide screen?

Thanks guys,

post #20 of 282
Your plan is coming along.

What do you mean by false Wall?

As for constant width you certainly avoid the need to get an add on lens. You do miss out on the opportunity to squeeze all the pixels and brightness into a 2:35 image. Most of us are doing constant width without masking and I certainly wish I could get around to doing the necessary upgrades to go constant height. My viewing is about 75% 16:9 now.

Unless you are going to re-aim your projector or it has some feature to move the image up, you will need masking at the top AND bottom for constant width. Or just live with the black bars.

As for the consequence of doing 16:9 editing on a smaller image if you go constant height. Wouldn't the image be bigger than the size 99% of your typical audience views when you are sitting at you edit bay location?
post #21 of 282
Thread Starter 
Bigmouth... I'm using the term "false wall" for any wall that is not one of the main permanent 4 walls of the room (i.e. the screen wall or the wall behind the last row of seats).

"As for the consequence of doing 16:9 editing on a smaller image if you go constant height. Wouldn't the image be bigger than the size 99% of your typical audience views when you are sitting at you edit bay location?"
True...but with constant height on a 110 wide screen I'm only looking at a 3.9 foot tall image vs. a 5.16 foot tall image using a constant width system and unmasking the top or bottom. The total size of the image would be even smaller on 4x3 productions. I think the extra height of the 16x9 screen would really help out the display size of my 4x3 projects as well. I'm afraid I would feel I "cheated" myself out of the capability of using the full 110" (or 115") width for 16x9. I don't think I would feel this way if I were just using this room for 2.35:1 movies.

As for the constant width setup...I was looking as something like this .
It should then use the full projector panel for 2.35:1 when the U85 is in front of the lens. Full 16x9 would not require the U85. I could prob. rig a motorized mount for cheaper than the $995 price on the site.
I have been looking at the Sony Pearl, JVC RS1U, and the Panasonic PTAE1000U...it seems they all have pluses and minuses. I'll be looking at about an 18 foot throw distance for a 110" to 115" wide screen.
ARRRGGG. So much number crunching!

I also have to install the structured wire in the rest of the house...so I'm dealing with a lot more than just the theater and edit bay. All the wiring (including theater) is about 2 miles :-( LOTS of work ahead.
I should not complain now...I'll be happy when I'm done :-)

Thanks again for all of your input...it is really helping me in planning.

post #22 of 282
Thread Starter 
OK, I have been working on some renders of the room.It is far from perfect...but it is really helping me visualize the space.

From above behind screen:

Above edit bay:

From entrance...view into edit bay and theater:

I'll work on ceiling and furniture when i have more time...also wall design and color hues will be different.
post #23 of 282
It's looking better every day.

I've got any idea for you but I tend to work the old school way, back of a napkin kind of approach.

This way some of the equipment would be accessible from the ground floor. Like when you just want to pop in a dvd and not have to climb up to your office.

Would also keep other family members from having to go into the work zone. It could actually be a back to back rack with some stuff aimed into the work space up in the edit bay.
post #24 of 282
hey DC, nice ideas you have here.one comment if i may, if the floor is up to the bottom of the window, as per rendering, the window will need to be moved up also. the reason i suggest this is, if he needs an inspection it won't pass, there has to be a certain distance between floor and bottom of the window, so children can't fall or get shoved through. like i said great ideas, just my thought.
post #25 of 282
Thread Starter 
The builder is going to be talking to the inspector about a couple of issues.
The window actually can't be moved up...but I will be putting an acoustic panel in the window to block it.. The panel can be "locked" in place... but taken out for emergency exit or extra light purposes.

DC... I love the rack idea...but I was planning to put a recessed display for my Emmy in there. I am now thinking about a short rack below that display... but I'm not sure it will fit. I may be able to get a 5 to 6 space unit in there.
post #26 of 282
I was kind of hoping he would block the window on the inside but code might require a window in the room for emergeny purposes. I'd block the back one in the edit bay and leave the other one there for inspection, then after the final inspection block the front one and install wall treatments.
post #27 of 282
Thread Starter 
Here is a pic of the front of the house. The theater is upstairs left. You see why I can't move the window. But it will be covered like I said in my earlier post.

Originally Posted by scottjohnson View Post

hey DC, nice ideas you have here.one comment if i may, if the floor is up to the bottom of the window, as per rendering, the window will need to be moved up also. the reason i suggest this is, if he needs an inspection it won't pass, there has to be a certain distance between floor and bottom of the window, so children can't fall or get shoved through. like i said great ideas, just my thought.
post #28 of 282
Thread Starter 
Ok, Here is the progress so far.

View from the entrance:

View of the screen and stage.

View of riser and edit bay from stage.

I have run into some snags. My 3 foot wide walkway hat to be at least 3 feet 6 inches for codes. I think this will be OK...because my rear riser is now 10' 3" wide.
The edit bay is 6'10" deep (rather than the 5' 9" i suggested) per codes needing the half wall a certain distance from the window.

My rear riser is 6 feet deep at the edges and 5 feet at center...I am having it shaved down to 4.5 feet deep at the edge and 4 feet deep at center. I will prob. move the riser steps to the walkway side.

As it is now... I think I will be able to fit 5 standard seats in the rear row and 3 berkline type seats in the front.

My distance from screen to riser will now be slightly shorter than 12 feet.

The front stage is missing the step across the entire front..I will see if this can be added.

Not my ideal situation...but still workable.

post #29 of 282
Thread Starter 
I'm considering Berkline 88s in the front (and a possible trip to the Morristown, TN factory outlet :-). A loveseat flanked by 2 chairs. I could then seat 4 in the front rather than 3. Any thoughts on this Berkline model?
post #30 of 282
Thanks for the update, Looks like you are making great progress. Can't comment on the 88's. I have the 99's

I'm looking at that stage front and had a thought about the shape.
You might want the front row seating to be a little more centered and actually have it 24 -30 inches from the right side wall. You would see the back of the right hand chair from the walkway but I don't think this would cause any problem. This would center up your front row seating, the back row would still be off center to your screen but you can't avoid it.

Now if that's your plan and you want to match the contour of the front of the riser to that seating configuration a little surgery is required. Now it looks like it's symmetrical within the off center riser location. Basically cut that one horn back a bit so the seating can move over.
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