Blu-Ray Calibration Disc (Test Patterns for PS3)

well i can attest that the files work on a thumb drive....but i have no clue how to use them
I have a pair of the THX blue glasses...are there other "filters" that I need? I bought my AVIA disc off of EBAY and all I got was the disc and its case

how do you use them?

It would be nice to know how to use these patterns

When i use HCFR to take meseurments it ask me to place the probe on a 75% saturated primary color( red or green or blue).
In these test patters there isn't any pattern of this kind.
Isn't it nessesary?

How do these names correlate with the chapters on the blu-ray disk??

Thanks for converting them!

thread title edited

Actually Mark, these are just some individual test patterns in AVC format that someone ported for the PS3 last year and zipped up into one package. You don't burn them to a disc. You can use a memory stick to transfer them to the PS3' harddrive or just run them off the memory stick. They have nothing to do with a Blu-Ray disc, though they could be used for the purpose of calibration for playing Blu-Rays as well as game content.

So which files correlate with "basic" "misc" chapter number etc??

Thanks a bunch

Dear HBIC:

Whoever sold you the AVIA test disc from EBay ripped you off... The disc comes with 3 priamry color filters to adjust color temperature (at a fixed IRE) and saturation of each of the primary colors: blue, red, and green. The THX blue filter glasses are primarily for color saturation adjustment. You can also use it with the AVIA disc for this purpose as the blue is of the same color temperature as the blue filter supplied by AVIA. You can also use them for rough tint adjustment on the AVIA disc if your display does not allow adjustment of primary color balance/saturation.

Does anyone know of a source where one can get test patterns that displays not only primary colors but also all the secondary colors? Additionally, are there also color filters available for the secondary colors? Where can I buy these?

Tyring to use only the blue filter as a reference such as provided by the THX test pattern when adjusting all the primary and secondary colors is just too combersone...

Does anyone know if Calibug ($149) USB drive test patterns come with color filters? What about Silicon Optix's HD HQV Benchmark test disc, or Digital Essentials HD test disc, do they come with filters? Has anyone used any of the above so far? How are they when compated to AVIA? I have thought about TVSpyder with the provided colorimeter, but it is just too costly, one might as well got an ISF calibration...

I am asking this because some newer Sharp LCD, LG LCD, and LG plasma sets now allow user adjutment of not only primary but also secondary colors at the basic, none ISF level.

Untrue.

Also untrue.

Correct, that and tint, plus color decoder (all rough estimates).

Primary color, not color temperature.

????

Please do more homework.

Best regards and beautiful pictures,
G. Alan Brown, President
CinemaQuest, Inc.

"Advancing the art and science of electronic imaging"

i download the http://www.rcollins.org/ftp/Calibration/mp4.zip and have them on my PS3, is there a tutorial on how to use these? For example, which of the test patterns can I use to test blacker than black and peak white levels?

Oddly enough I happened upon this posting from a referral from another forum. The other forum had an explanation on how to use the files.

Here is the text - it is from HDTV Arcades forum, but I cannot link yet (not enough posts) so I am pasting it in:

The only test patterns you need for the basic setup in most TVs user menus are:

ramp.mp4
bars709.mp4 if you are calibrating in 720p or 1080i
bars601.mp4 if you are calibrating in 480p or 480i
sweeps.mp4 if you are going to calibrate in 1080i or 1080p

Before you begin, make sure you set your color temperature to "warm" in the user menu as this is where it's supposed to be.

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ramp.mp4:

You use this test pattern to calibrate your contrast/picture and brightness. The important things to know about this test pattern is that it has 23 bars going across which go from 5% below black to 5% above white. The sets of dots on either side of the screen indicate that the bar above them is either 100% which is white or 0% which is black. The goal is to get anything beyond the dots to be the same shade as the bar above the dots.

Using the bottom half of the screen, you are going to first try and set white. Idealy you want everything from the dots to the right edge to be the same shade of white. On some TVs even with your picture/contrast slider all the way up, you still won't get the bar at the extreme right of the screen to match the 100% white bar above the dots. In this scenario, just back off the picture/contrast control until everything has the same "color" of white. You will probably notice that as you turn the contrast level up that it may shift the color of the 100% white bar above the dots towards another color instead of the pure white. When you see it start doing this, back off until it returns to white. It is better to have the color of 100% white to be correct then to have a perfect blend of the two bars to the right on the bottom.

Again using the bottom half of the screen, it's time to set the black level/brightness. If you are using a HDMI connection, you cannot use the 5% below black bar as the PS3 will not pass it. If you are using component, it's basically the same instructions as above. Turn the brightness control up or down until the 5% below black bar at the left of the screen is the same exact black as the black bar above the dots. If you are using HDMI, you will have to use the bar to the right of the black bar above the dots. Adjust the brightness until the bar to the right of the one above the dots is just barely visible compared to it.

You may have to repeat the above 2 steps because the 2 settings can affect each other.

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You need to use the blue filter that came with Avia or DVE to do this step.

Select bars709.mp4 if you are calibrating 1080i/1080p/720p.
Select bars601.mp4 if you are calibrating 480i/480p.

It works the same way whichever set you use.

Look through the blue filter while displaying the bars and use the color/saturation control to adjust the blue and white bars to match each other exactly as the same shade of blue. Look at the magenta and cyan bars through the filter and use the hue/tint control to make the 2 bars have the same exact shade of blue. You may have to go back and forth between the controls a few times to get it perfect.

Now put the filter away and look at the yellow bar. If your TV has "red push" ,and almost all HDTVs do, you are going to have to lower the color/saturation control down until it's a real yellow (think of a banana or a Ney York taxi) instead of more of an orange. You can also display some pure red objects from movies or TV and make sure they look more realistic as opposed to "glowing" red. You will notice that after taming red by doing this and setting color temperature to warm that all of a sudden people have natural flesh tones.

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sweeps.mp4

This is to help you set your sharpness control. This particular pattern will really only work for you if your PS3 is outputting 1080i or 1080p since all these test patterns are in 1080p format. This won't work as well for 720p because it is being downscaled by the PS3 and this alters it enough that it's not going to be very useful to judge resolution.



Display sweeps.mp4 and use your sharpness control to try and make the top of the pattern look as evenly gray as possible. When your sharpness level is set incorrectly, parts of the pattern will be a brighter gray then others. You just need to balance getting an even gray without bottoming out your sharpness. With the sharpness all the way down it'll probably be 100% gray across, but won't be very pleasing to look at. Hopefully you will find that the proper sharpness level is about 25% of the way up the sharpness level.

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Those are the basic patterns to use to set your user menu controls on your TV. Most TVs have a bunch of options in the user menu that may muck up your attempts to properly calibrate. DNR, natural color and other such options can make getting even the most basic stuff correct a pain in the ass.