San Francisco, CA - Comcast - Page 449

Here is what I found regarding Tivo.

The Tivo does get better reviews for the UI, speed of navigation, storage space, integration of Netflix, Rhapsody, Pandora, Amazon Video etc.... I haven't tried it yet, so I'm taking the reviews at face value.

Tivo supports 3D content per their user forum, although the company dosen't explicity state that in their specs. (Comcast obviously supports it as well.)

Comcast on demand does NOT work on Tivo, but Tivo offers access to Netflix and Amazon Video, with more to come I think, so it has better "on-demand" offerings in general.

The Comcast box wtih Tivo does not get very good reviews-- people say it is nothing like the experience of using a Tivo box. I didn't find out when it will be available in our area.

Tivo has a multi-room feature which allows transfer of recorded material, but does not allow switching the feed midstream like u-verse etc.... This feature is included whereas on Comcast it costs something like $20/mnth extra.

Tivo also has the advantage of ability to transfer files to other devices. There is a $30 one time application fee for this capability. Seems reasonable.

The cable card in my area costs only $2 / month from Comcast.

I decided to go with two Tivos- an XL for the family room, and a Premiere for the garage/wreck room. I managed to get one of these on Ebay for $120 with proof of purchase before 11/14 price increases went into effect, and the other from Magnolia discounted as part of a TV bundle. This qualifies me for $12/month for the 1st box and $10 for the second, but I'm paying $420 upfront combined for both boxes.

I didn't go for the zero $ down deal, because then you are locked into the $20/mnth per box-- according to Tivo this is not just for the contract period, it is ad infintuum.

The draw backs that I can see:

- By any measure Tivo is expensive compared to $10/ month/ box for Comcast's DVR. If you go over to the Tivo community forum, a lot of Tivo users are not happy with the changes to the pricing.

- Tivo as a company is not doing well financially, so future service issues could surface if they don't fix their business

You can start transfer from the paused point.


The TiVo Desktop software is free. $30 is for the Plus version.


Isn't Comcast DVR something like $17/month?


People have been saying that about TiVo since I got my first one in 2001.

The transfer must be an improvement from the intial release of the Premiere, as a review I read said that wasn't possible, and it took a long time to transfer.

My comcast DVR was $10/month.

I also forgot to mention the capability to view photos from Tivo which are stored on a PC is a big plus for me.

TiVo could transfer from the paused point since the Series2 days. I have the TiVo HDs, not the Premiere, so I don't know if something is broken with that feature.

From http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TiVo_di...ideo_recorders : "Communication speeds are claimed to be 3 to 5 times faster than a Tivo HD".

I think first HDDVR is $0 - $16 depend on your package.
Second one is $16.

Your case (2 HDDVRs) is almost same.
Comcast $10 + $16 = $26.
Tivo $12 + $10 + $2 = $24.


Other option for Tivo:
You can pay annually to save 16% or pay lifetime for $399 + $299.

If you know someone with TiVo, even that 1st lifetime can be $299 instead of $399 because ownership can be transferred. All of the TiVos I've had since 2001 have/had lifetime. Two of my HDs are almost 3 years old, so lifetime sub is well worth the cost.

Did somebody ask about HDNet's calibration screens a while back?

I just stumbled across a schedule that lists them as being on HDNet every Saturday morning at 3:30 AM (Pacific time).

EDIT: Here was the original request, from about three months ago.

-- Don

Does Tivo still offer lifetime? I don't see it on their website:

https://www3.tivo.com/store/premiere.do

TiVo took it down because of the current "holiday promotion" on the hardware. Your unit (before 11/14) is still eligible.

It's listed as Off-Air on the Comcast guide and will only record if you set a manual recording for 3:30AM.

I just looked at my Tivo online guide and it is listed and let me send a request to record it.

"HDNET Test Pattern

Saturday, December 4

3:30 AM - 3:40 AM, 764 HDNET"

Worked fine from my TiVo HD to my Premiere XL--was able to start a transfer then it would immediately ask to start watching. No problems on the HD Soccer match I had recorded. But transferring multiple programs did take a while, but that might have been the HD which was not the fastest TiVo box.

Have any of these channels shown up on bay area systems?

Yes we have ESPNU HD on ch. 788 here in the Bay. None of the others though

Apparently these channels are being added in New Mexico systems and I was curious as I don't expect to see any additions of that scale until we get SDV here in the bay area, which could quite some time.

All you folks on 750MHz systems, go get satellite so the rest of us can get more channels.

ESPNU on 788 here in Santa Rosa Keenan .

Apologies if there is a separate forum for something like this (and if so, what is it?)...

Anyway, I am considering switching from Comcast to U-Verse (SHAME!, I know), but I live in a townhouse and the U-Verse installers need to access the cable connections that go into my unit, which are in a junction box (the junction box has connections for all three units in my particular building).

Three questions:

1. If I have a Comcast tech make a visit and ask him to disconnect the wires that go into my house (and pull them out of the junction box) without actually having to cancel service yet, would they consider this - and how much of a pain would it be if I need to ask them to come back out and reconnect them, in case U-Verse can't be installed for some reason?

2. What if I actually cancel service - do they pull "my" wires out? (And again, how much trouble is it to re-establish service if necessary?)

3. What about going inside my garage (where, I assume, the wires are technically mine and not Comcast's), and cutting and then reconnecting (by adding connectors to each cut end and rejoining them with F-F connectors)? Or is this something I would have to do myself, assuming I am allowed to do it in the first place? That way, AT&T can connect to my existing wiring without having to open the Comcast box.

-- Don

If you cancel service, Comcast will eventually disconnect the main feed coming from the street, from your splitter in j-box. They won't mess with any cable downstream from the j-box.

However, there is no reason to tell comcast anything. Simply have Uverse do their thing - they will disconnect the comcast feed from your splitter to the rest of the house (or point to it for you to do) and then re-use the downstream cable. If they can't make it work, you reconnect the comcast feed and everything is fine. If Uverse makes it work, then you call comcast and disconnect.

I tried to get U-Verse to install last Friday, but they had to reschedule as the installer does not have the "key" needed to open the Comcast cable junction box, which contains the splitter in question (as well as splitters for the other two units in my townhouse building).

Apparently, I need Comcast to either (a) leave the box open for AT&T to access (which I seriously doubt they'll do if for no other reason than, for all they know, I want access to steal HBO from one of my neighbors or something), or (b) to make it so that AT&T can access the cables that go into my house. Is this something Comcast is willing to do, given that I am doing it so I can cancel my Comcast service if U-Verse works?

I thought of another method that doesn't require cutting any existing lines; replace the two lines that go from (what I assume is) the splitter inside the junction box into my unit with two short (3' should be more than enough) cables, then run those into my garage and connect them to my existing two cables (the ones that were originally on the splitter) with male-to-male adapters (the ones with female connectors on each end). Do you think a Comcast tech is willing to go for that?

-- Don

I will probably get in trouble for helping you. . . #3 looks like the best choice, but if the other provider insists on connecting at the junction box you'll need to coordinate a time when both techs are there.

And I thought you were my friend

Did you see my alternative to my original #3, where I ask to have the cables from the splitter replaced with shorter (about 2 feet each should do it) cables, then attach those to the previously attached cables inside my garage with F/F (male-to-male cable) connectors?

If AT&T insists on connecting at the junction box, then most likely I will switch to Plan Z: keep things the way they are (will you still be my friend?), except probably switch from Earthlink DSL to either AT&T DSL or Comcast cable internet.

-- Don

Big if there is if AT$T will agree with it. Would solve the problem and allow both services in the residence.

I remember the SMATV days when there would be a demarc plate on the wall with the inputs to the units and competing lockboxes on either side. We've come full circle again.

I didn't realize the j-box was locked. Given that, I think your new idea is a good one.

I used to live at 376 east 2nd in Benicia and the j-boxes there were not locked. I had to do the exact same thing as you need for directv.

If we are talking about a "blister" on the side of the building as the J box, it could very well have a lock on it. This box will have not only the Comcast wiring but will have the telephone wiring as well. This is where U-Verse would connect up anyway. If there is a lock on that blister, both utilities will have a key to it.......

I am not sure what you mean by "blister", but the telephone connections are on a separate (unlocked) covered panel next to, but outside of, the J box.

-- Don

A blister is a cabinet that is attached to the outside of the building. That is usually where the utilities for the building are arranged. Is it possible for you to take a picture of the arrangement on your building an post it here?

As an aside, Comcast does not own anything beyond their tap to the building, wiring wise. All of the inside wiring is yours to do with what you would like.

if the j-box is not locked, i would go back to my original suggestion: disconnect comcast feed from street to splitter, and bypass splitter (if present). try downstream cables with Satellite. if it works, you're done. If not, reconnect comcast feed to splitter and downstream cables to splitter. As someone else mentions, comcast does not own the j-box. your HOA may feel like they have something to say about it but as long you do not mess up anyone else's cable, they don't care.

If you do disconnect the inbound Comcast feed be sure to put a termination cap on the line so it doesn't "broadcast" into the surrounding area. An un-terminated cable TV line can act as a transmitting antenna.

Pardon me for asking, but what is a "termination cap"? Every picture I have seen of one makes it look like a standard F-type connector. Is it something along the lines of a male F-connector that doesn't have anything on the other end (so you could, for example, put it into an open terminal of a splitter). in which case, would you need a male-to-male adapter to attach it to an actual coax line?

I have seen similar things with BNC connections for Ethernet and for SCSI, but, if I remember correctly, those terminators had female connectors and the coax ones seem to have male connectors.

-- Don

hey giants fans, comcast bay area sports will be rebroadcasting select
2010 giants playoff games starting tonight at 8:00 up through christmas eve.

best part is that they have giants announcers narration of the games
and not those idiots from fox.

worst part is they're not going to replay on of matt cain's shutouts.

go to cnsba web site for dates and times or replays

best christmas gift ever!