For all D-Box enthusiasts ! - Page 127

That depends how sturdy your house is built. In the 87 year old wood construction Carl Fischer Estate in Miami Beach (System Prometheus) the old hydraulic system transfers energy from the cinema which is in the middle structure 3rd floor all the way down to the chandelier on the first floor, the piston system seem less rumpous.

thxz for the link. Where s the (SRP)platform on these pics?

My system is in a loft area above the master bedroom in a house built circa 2006. My wife says the bedroom shakes when I'm upstairs "D-Boxing" (can we make this a verb now?) and she is downstairs sleeping. But, like a good woman, she doesn't mind.

It is pulled apart to make a custom solution. That is why you see the 4 'boxes' above the floor. It does not look as good, but it works.

I see HP7.1 is on the website. If someone confirms that the 1 Disc (likely the rental version) BD works just as well as the 3 Disc, let me know.

I don't want to experience Red all over again.

Now, I'm assuming both BDs have the same audio track unlike Red... but a confirmation would be nice none-the-less.

And slighly off topic... but where's my 3D Harry Potter BD?

I actually am doing kind of the same thing. I mixed used and new parts and seating and I saved a bit of money. But I'm compromising by having the 800lb limit actuator in a loveseat, having only 2 axis in 2 of my singles, and buying one chair D-box ready with the intention of adding a full set of actuators later.

I didn't read about the issues in this thread with the 800lb actuators until it was too late (its not really what is sounds like--depending on how the weight is centered you might incur a shutdown).

I need to get on a diet before my chairs go live in a few months

Oh, and I do hope I can live with the comfort of the Jaymars because buying used you don't get the choice of style or manufacturer--I think the used market is very limited, and dealers don't stock much (and don't even care to respond to e-mail requests in many cases, obviously).

One dealer in MN was advertising a used platform on their site, and didn't even respond to non-generic e-mails about that specific item. . .they might still have it if anyone is interested.

Hi Sander,

let's take it apart...

1. Your MCI2P controller needs a brain. This could by any Windows PC which is capable to run the software provided by D-Box. In a standalone controller the MCI2P or a similar controller and a PC is put into one box, which can be controlled like a consumer electronics device. So the PC providing the brain to your controller does not necessarily have to be your HTPC.

2. Apart from the controller thing, you need a playback device for your movies which is capable to supply an unaltered Dolby Digital or DTS stream through either optical or coaxial SPDIF. This is needed by the controller for synching the motion to the movie that's playing.
Now that playback device will usually be a Blu-Ray player. As has been mentioned before there are machines that can supply the lossy digital signal for synch purposes and stream HD sound through HDMI at the same time. Alternatively a setting in which the playback device does the decoding of HD and serves it via a 7.1 analog out and still streams an unaltered lossy DD or DTS signal would also be fine. The thing that I termed "playback device" can be anything that's capable to play Blu-Rays/DVDs, stream DD/DTS, and provided the movie streaming, sound and video options you like or need.
A HTPC certainly offers the biggest choice in streaming and codec options but is currently limited by the available hardware and software in some context - and let's face it, D-Box is still a way too exclusive gimmick so that the big PC hardware manufacturer will start considering its requirements in their product development. On the other side are the Blu-Ray players which offer reliable playback of disks and some of them can do Blu-Ray 3D and might have limited video streaming options. In between are media players and hybrid media players like the Dunes. When talking about video streaming, I exclude the online video streaming options like Netflix, Amazon, Blockbuster & co., but I am talking about having a 1:1 ISO, VOB or M2TS copy (or a MKV container that houses the unaltered AV streams) of a movie stored either on a server or just an external hard disk. Whether this storage device happens to be your HTPC and if the brain for your controller is your HTPC or any other PC doesn't matter.

So you need a controller brain, a playback device and, if AV streaming is an issue, a storage device. You might be able to cover the three requirements with on machine (e.g. a HTPC), but you might be limited by its capabilities in some context, as discussed before.

Hope this helps!

Markus

P.S. Another point that has been made in this thread about devices that provide a lossy DD/DTS signal from a HDMI stream: While there are devices that are capable to encode a signal to a lossy DD/DTS, such a DD/DTS signal would most likely not meet the requirements of an unaltered DD/DTS stream as required by D-Box.

you cleared things up for me!

However, one question still remains about this:
I bought the Dune Prime 3.0 player and connected it to my HTPC. Streaming work fine untill now (don t have the D-Box system yet btw). But when I m going to play a Blu-Ray that I put DIRECTLY in the Dune player, it won t work right? Cause how could the Dune find the motion code without going through my HTPC?

More questions about the MCP-2P. I just downloaded the manual.

- The manual says I need XP, 2000 or Vista. Does the MCI 2P not work with w7?

- The MCP-2P needs it 'feed' from the digital input. Can I choose meself if I want to use the Optical or Coax digital input? If so, will the dune support HDMI+digital with both the Optical and Coax output?

- the manual says to use a high speed usb cable to connect it to my pc, I assume a standard usb cable is ok to use?

Hi Sander,

here is how it works:

The playback device (Dune) plays either a Blu-Ray/DVD or streams content from a storage device. In playing it, the Dune decodes the AV stream from the disk/storage device and sends the audio tracks you selected in HD via HDMI (I assume you chose to bitstream here) and as DD/DTS through SPDIF.

The DD/DTS SPDIF signal is sent to your MCI2P. The MCI2P communicates with its brain (the PC that is running the D-Box controller software and that has all the motion codes stored on his hard drive) and retrieves the suitable motion code for the movie that is currently played and the settings you chose in the controller software (like intensity and so on). The MCI2P then sends the motion signal through its Kinelink ports to the syndrive units in your platform modules/your D-Box seat(s). The syndrive modules translate the motion code received into the applicable motion for the individual motors in your platform.

That's all there is to it...


Don't know about that. I am using the 340Cs and they run XP embedded.


Yes and yes! :-)


Certainly, the mainboard in the 340Cs (a VIA EPIA ML-5000EA) has only USB 1.1 ports, so the speed requirements can't be that high... ;-) That being said, it is always a good idea to use high quality cabling!

Cheers from Germany!

Markus

P.S: Don't forget to use the step down transformers for your platform modules. To my knowledge they only support 110 Volts!

thxz again for your reply Markus! With this post you finally (it was me who didn t understand!) made it clear to me how the MCI-2P works! As long as my HTPC is on and the MCI 2P is connected to it I m good to go. If you ask me D-Box is asking way too much for a MCI 2P+PC (which IS the standalone motion controller IV)!

about the transformers, how many do I need? One for the SRP-230 and one for the MCI-2P?

Are these ok:

http://www.laptopshop.nl/product/970...220v-110v.html

I watched The Incredibles last night and was utterly blown away by the motion experience. I think this has now become my favorite film for MFX. I've never experienced so many demo-worthy scenes in a single film.

I know this movie has been praised before in this thread, but I put off experiencing it in D-Box until the BD was released. I highly, highly, recommend everyone who hasn't experienced the MFX for this release give it a try.

I guess that will be another title I need to upgrade to BluRay. I am really getting anxious for the Kaleidescape IDV as my modular disc vault is full and I don't want to pick up more MDVs.

Hi Sander,

the Series IV motion controller would be a MCI4P with a PC... but you are right, the markup seems hefty.


I went for something more powerful...

That's the model I am using: http://www.thiecom.de/minwa-mw1000.html

I think, I paid something like 70 to 80 EUR on the German bay.

It is rated with 1000 Watts max. and I never had a shutdown of my platform or my loveseat (I use one of those transformers per 3D system and an additional one with 300 watts for the recliner of my love seat)

A single module of a SRP-230 is rated at 2.5 A @120 Volts, that is 300 Watts. I remember having a conversation with Yannick and the outcome was that a transformer with less power than my 1000 watt model would have been sufficient as well since the 2.5 A seems to be a maximum rating as well. On the other hand, I doesn't hurt to have some headroom and who knows how reliable the 1000 Watts max. rating for my low cost Chinese step down transformer is... After all, the motors have to move up to 750 lbs, i.e. up to 340 kg, up and down, and that up to 100 times per second!

Hope this helps!

Markus

The standalone units can be controled via RS-232 comands. Can the software that runs on the PC be controled by the PC's RS-232 input with the same commands? If so, I can start building the contols on my remote in advance!

Hi Markus,

thank for you reply. Some more questions about the transformers:

So when I m going to shop for a transformers like yours the thing I need to take care of is to get one with approx. 1000 watt or more? And what about the MCI 2P, can you put this one also in a box like that (so does the box have more than 1 input?)

The MCI2P is not going to need a transformer, if that is what you are asking...

Hi Sander,

I would suggest to go for a transformer that is rated 800 watts max. or more. Based on the experience with my 1000 watts transformer, you would be absolutely safe if you go for the 1000 watts transformer. I haven't seen reasonable priced transformers above 1000 watts, but since they are not needed for this application, you don't need to worry. The transformer should have two 110 volt outlets, since the two modules from your SRP230 have separate mains leads. As Mr. Poindexter pointed out, the MCI2P should have a power supply that can handle 100 to 240 volts, 50 to 60 Hz, so you don't need a transformer for the controller. But check the power supply once you have received it, just in case... ;-)

Cheers!

Markus

so the MCI2P has an euro net connector?

No, the power supply would just need an adapter, not a transformer. Pretty much all wall transformers these days take any electrical input and just need to have the plug adapter.

so, this is the one I should get for the MCI 2P?

is this one ok?

http://hobby.marktplaats.nl/elektron...10-v-230v.html

and will the SRP-230 fit with this twinseat?



and what is the max weight in KG of the srp-230 (including 2 persons of approx 150kg total)

EDIT:

and what about these chairs?: http://huis-inrichting.marktplaats.n...ta_ind=13&fs=1

No, you would only need something like this:


It sells for $1. You can find something locally at Radio Shack or whatever local store you have that fills that niche.

thxz Mike, looking forwards to my system!

Hi Sander,

looks as if it was comparable to my step down transformer. I don't know any Dutch, but I assume that the transformer you linked to can do both, transform up and down, am I correct? If yes, make sure you configure it to transform down... ;-)

Cheers!


Markus

Hi Sander,

while the frame of the SRP230 platform might give some stability, the seating on the platform should be rigid in itself as well. Therefore, two single seats might not be the best idea. Assuming that the twin seat on top is rigid in itself, this might be the better solution. Nevertheless, if you enforce the two single seats so that they are a solid unit, this might work out as well.

The idea behind the rigid seating is that the motion in the 4 motors should be translated into motion of the seat and its occupants and not into a twisting platform frame/seating combo.

The 750 lbs max. load of a SRP230 translate into 340 kg max. (appr. 2.2lbs are 1kg).

Cheers again!

Markus

Sander,

The chairs/love seat are attached to the SRP-230 platform via screws through the SRP metal frame and then into the wood frame of the chair. The metal frame has predrilled holes but more than likely you'll need to drill some of your own to accomdate attaching two chairs instead of the one love seat. According to my notes, the frame allows for a maximum chair width of 80 inches - but you could probably buy new bars that are longer. Chair legs will need to be removed. As long as the chair frame itself is rigid/sturdy, they should work fine...in my opinion.

Markus,

I was stationed in Stuttgart for 5 months; loved it there!

Paul

I talked to D-Box today to see if they would sell me the brackets so I would not need to have them fabricated. They freaked out and begged me not to do this modification. I told them that the price of the 3250I actuator kit (used in seating like the Jaymars) was too high for me and that SRP-130 is far more appealing. With the 3250I you only get 3 actuators and with the SRP-130, you get 4 actuators, housing, and platform bars.

D-Box did mention that the seats I am purchasing can be modified to allow them to sit over and attach to the SRP-130 without any modifications. To do this, the chair manufacture would actually create cutouts in the arm rest that would allow the sides of the SRP-130 to slide into them. The chair then would be attached directly to the bars that slide underneath.

Has anyone tried this before? I mentioned what others have said about rattling and issues with hearing the SRP-130 and they assured me that this would be a non-issue. It sounds like this may be a great solution as my warranty would still be valid and I would be able to easily move the actuators to other chairs if I ever needed to. Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

Yeah, they freaked out when I called about the exact same thing and they denied me the brackets. That's why I had to do it on my own. They really freaked out and said that I'd mis-wire something or catch something on fire. So, not only would they not help me, they tried to get me to not do it.

I did it and I couldn't be happier.

Now, are you ready for the real reason I think they get so upset? They don't have a whole lot of margin in the actuators. Their margin comes from turnkey solutions and even more so with the D-BOX ready seating because they mark up the furniture part too. But, it's difficult for them to mark up just the actuators because they cost them so much to have manufactured.

If they come up with a DIY solution for consumers to be able to install everything themselves, they'd immediately cut off any and all sales of D-BOX ready seating.

Before I did that, the rattling was so bad, that my wife could not sleep in the other room with the door shut. I would turn down the surround sound so she could sleep, but any time there was an explosion or car crash or something, the D-BOX was so loud that she couldn't sleep. I even had another plastic housing sent to me under warranty in an attempt to eliminate the noise. It did not help.

I really do hope that yours isn't as noisy as mine was, but I couldn't be happier with my system now. I even re-subscribed to get codes for the next 12 months.

D-BOX no longer sells the seating.