AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › Want to build cylinder sub, but a couple of questions
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Want to build cylinder sub, but a couple of questions

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 
Hey guys,

I want to build a cylinder sub, or maybe sonosub or whatever. My question is, let's say I go with a particular driver and a particular amp, how do I figure out what length tube I need and what length port I need, etc? Is there a simple way to figure this stuff out? I'd like to make one, but some of the ones I see here seem huge! Ideally, something that has a diameter of like 16" and a height of about 3' would be ideal, but i'm not sure that's enough to create a sub powerful enough to give me deep bass and high SPL in a 16 x 20 x 14 (height) room.

Thanks for your help
post #2 of 8
* Make a budget for the woofer(s).
* Make a budget for the amplifier.
* Define what you want your sub to do, define 'deep bass' and how much SPL you want, etc.
* You can download free software to model your idea {WinISD Pro, Unibox, etc}
* You can have someone else do the model if you don't want to learn how.
* Subwoofer is not limited to sonotube construction.
post #3 of 8
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the reply, I guess you're right in that i'm not limited to a Sonosub, just thought it would be easier to build, but that's not really any issue. I could go cube just as easily.

I think my total budget for the sub would be around $500 max. By deep, I mean maybe around 18-20hz would be deep enough for me, I don't need anything deeper than that (or so I think). As far as how loud, not sure how to describe that, but loud enough that I could crank something like Jurassic Park, Lord of the Rings, etc and not worry about the sub bottoming out.

Another question, if I make a sub that is cube/square/rectangle, is there any reason I can't make it out of MDF and then cover the entire thing in furniture grade wood?

Are there any 15" drivers out there that are considered to be the leaders or best bang for the buck for maybe under $200? I figured maybe $200 for driver, $200 for amp and the rest to build the cabinet?

Thanks again
post #4 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by midfiman View Post

Thanks for the reply, I guess you're right in that i'm not limited to a Sonosub, just thought it would be easier to build, but that's not really any issue. I could go cube just as easily.

I think my total budget for the sub would be around $500 max. By deep, I mean maybe around 18-20hz would be deep enough for me, I don't need anything deeper than that (or so I think). As far as how loud, not sure how to describe that, but loud enough that I could crank something like Jurassic Park, Lord of the Rings, etc and not worry about the sub bottoming out.

Another question, if I make a sub that is cube/square/rectangle, is there any reason I can't make it out of MDF and then cover the entire thing in furniture grade wood?

Are there any 15" drivers out there that are considered to be the leaders or best bang for the buck for maybe under $200? I figured maybe $200 for driver, $200 for amp and the rest to build the cabinet?

Thanks again

if you call ascendant audio directly...they have 3 atlas' 15" left at the original mind numbing sale price of 105....you might get lucky.
post #5 of 8
Thread Starter 
Is that considered to be a good driver? I went on their website and looked at their existing offerings. How does it compare to something like what's there now, the Assassin, etc? Also, how about the Dayton Titanic MKIII from Partsexpress? I've seen that used as well as Adire Audio drivers.

I have NO idea what to go with since there are so many choices. I think i'd like to keep a 15" driver like my current commercially bought sub.

Thanks!
post #6 of 8
I am currently in the process of getting/building a Titanic 15" sub with 500 watt bash amp from PE. It is going to be in 300 liters tuned to around 19hz, and should produce 113db+ from 20hz on up.
post #7 of 8
Thread Starter 
That sounds like something I'd be looking to do. Is the Titanic suppose to be considered a very good driver? I just wonder how that would be compared to the cheaper Dayton 15" subs that PE sells? Thx.
post #8 of 8
Here is a quote from another thread of mine, SteveCallas is the one who posted this:

"The Titanic is superior to the DVC. In regards to Dayton subwoofer drivers, order of quality would be Quatro, DVC, Titanic, Reference Series. I didn't suggest the RS drivers because you would want two of them for what I would typically consider sufficient output levels."
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