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"Official" Audyssey thread (FAQ in post #1) - Page 182

post #5431 of 62240
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hakka View Post

I have a small room and high surrounds, it would be a 45 degree angle from my head up to the speakers. How should i place the mic - i'm guessing 90 degrees to the midrange driver?

Hakka.

Surrounds are not as critical as your mains, but in theory, you should adjust the mic as you say when testing the surrounds. However, you have to move in and adjust the mic to the new alignment within the gaps between chirps. Audyssey is still recording during this period, and even the sound of you touching the mic might be enough to throw off the readings.

My surrounds are up high like yours. I used to try and re-align the mic between chirps, but now I just set it horizontal (pointing at the ceiling) for all speakers. I haven't really heard any noticeable difference - but then again, I don't have audiophile ears.
post #5432 of 62240
Quote:
Originally Posted by audyssey View Post

Phase controls on the back of subs are basically useless. They apply "delay" at one frequency rather than the needed group delay that is frequency dependent. So, it's best to just leave them at 0.

Chris

Quote:
Originally Posted by audyssey View Post

If the two subs are driven as one unit, then you need to adjust time delay (or, equivalently, the distance) between subs so that they are aligned to each other. This is not really the same as what the phase control gives you on the back of the sub. With the proper measurement equipment, it is possible in some cases to make this work OK with the phase control. But, in most cases you end up making things worse so it's best to leave them at 0.

Chris

Thanks again, Chris. I incorporated this information into the document.

Mark
post #5433 of 62240
Edit: 31 July 08: This project is ongoing. To limit confusion, I will posting the most current text on the most currrent page of the thread until we have determined that it is "sufficient" and everyone has had a chance to contribute, if so desired. FYIO: I use the default setting of 30 posts per page.

Mark
post #5434 of 62240
Quote:
Originally Posted by giomania View Post

F. Place microphone in the primary listening position for the first measurement.

I thought it was supposed to be the (exact) center of the listening area?

Quote:


IV. Dual (mono) Subwoofer Setup

If possible ensure that each sub is set to the same level (using a sound meter)?
post #5435 of 62240
Quote:
Originally Posted by giomania View Post

II. Microphone Setup
G. If your seating is within 12-18 inches of a room boundary, ensure the microphone is placed at least 12 inches from the wall.

VI. During Calibration
B. Do not stand in between the speaker and the microphone.

VII. After Calibration
C. Modify the speaker distance settings (excluding the subwoofer) if they were not measured accurately.

These are the three things I had questions on:

II G. - I saw two recommendations on this, (12" and 24") and the one above was made by Chris, IIRC. Is it OK as written above?

VI B. - Where is the best place to be in the room during the measurements? Does it matter, as long as you are not in between the mic and speaker?

VIII C - Is it OK to modify the L/C/R/Surrounds speaker distance settings? This will not effect anything?

Thanks for any input.

Mark
post #5436 of 62240
Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles R View Post

I thought it was supposed to be the (exact) center of the listening area?

If possible ensure that each sub is set to the same level (using a sound meter)?

Seems to me that using multiple subs would be a problem no matter what you do. In setting up wide area paging systems even if all phases and levels were set equally there were still locations that either canceled or added the signal, it was better to run with a frequency offset (not very desirable when listening to audio).
post #5437 of 62240
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hakka View Post

I have a small room and high surrounds, it would be a 45 degree angle from my head up to the speakers. The speakers are angled downward about 20 degrees so they are aimed at a point about a foot above my head. I hope all that makes sense. How should i angle the mic?

Hakka.

Tilt it so that the beam from the speaker grazes the top surface of the mic. In other words, the vertical axis of the mic is orthogonal to the incident beam.
post #5438 of 62240
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kal Rubinson View Post

Tilt it so that the beam from the speaker grazes the top surface of the mic. In other words, the vertical axis of the mic is orthogonal to the incident beam.

Hi Kal,

With regard to the sound beam from the speaker, am I correct that you are referring to a sound beam from the speaker's tweeter?

Thanks.

Larry
post #5439 of 62240
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryChanin View Post

Hi Kal,

With regard to the sound beam from the speaker, am I correct that you are referring to a sound beam from the speaker's tweeter?

Thanks.

Larry

Yup, the axis of the tweeter.
post #5440 of 62240
Quote:
Originally Posted by giomania View Post


E. Set the subwoofer polarization per common accepted practices.

This is the same as phase, just with only 2 choices: 0 and 180 deg. Just make sure both subs are set the same.
Quote:


1. Unless you are a tweakaholic, skip ahead to Microphone Placement (item V).
2. Place the microphone at the primary listening position, run the calibration, and let Audyssey calculate the speaker distances and trim levels.
3. Check the subwoofer trim levels.
a. If the subwoofer trim level is a large positive number, turn up the subwoofer volume a bit and repeat step #2. If it is a larger negative number, turn down the subwoofer volume a bit and repeat step #2. The goal (for the perfectionist) is to obtain a subwoofer trim level close to 0 decibels.

The actual requirement here is that the system doesn't run into its maximum or minimum level when setting the sub levels, which would be inaccurate. Just within +-6 dB will work identically to a 0 dB setting.
Quote:


G. If the sub has an EQ system, use it to tame large peaks before calibrating with Audyssey.
1. Narrow peaks or dips in the response less than 100 Hz that are 1/3 or 1/6 of an octave wide can be improved—but not eliminated—by Audyssey.

Could you point to where this statement was made? Thanks.
Quote:


IV. Dual (mono) Subwoofer Setup
1. If this is not possible, enter the average of the two distance measurements.

It sounds like you are suggesting entering a distance before you run MultEQ. Any distances entered before the measurements are done are ignored. If you are suggesting resetting the distance after the measurements, how do you know what to set it to? You don't want to set it to the average of the physical distances, because that ignores the electrical delay, right? I think the only way to set this distance right, is to run the measurements (perhaps abbreviated, as you suggest earlier for the sub level) with only one sub active, to get an idea of how much electrical delay there is. Then you can run the full speaker setup, and afterwards adjust the distance to the average of the physical distances + electrical distance.
Quote:


2. When two subwoofers are driven as one unit, adjustment to the time delay (or, equivalently, the distance) is required so they are aligned to each other.

Are there any subs that actually have a delay setting on them, rather than a phase control? If your subs only have phase control, you can't do this.

Quote:



There is a 2-ft distance between 2-5 and 3-6, not 1-5 and 1-6. It is geometrically impossible to have a 1-ft distance between 1-7 and 5-7 and 2-7 and 4-7 and 2 ft between 1-2 and 1-4. Actually, I think the canonical positions for 7 and 8 are 1-ft to the left (or right) and 1-ft in front of the line between formed by 1, 2, and 3. That gives a distance of 1.4 = sqrt(2) ft between 1 and 7. Of course, the exact positions are not important, but if you're going to put those distances in, you might as well be right.

Quote:


VII. After Calibration
A. Modify the speaker crossover settings as desired.
1. Setting the speakers to “Small” with a 60Hz – 80Hz crossover is a good starting point.

It might be useful to add here that raising the crossover frequency doesn't affect the channel correction, but lowering the crossover starts to feed uncorrected sound to the satellite. You might also note that the sub filter in MultEQ is much higher resolution than the satellite filters, so it can be beneficial to allow more material to be sent to the sub, i.e. raise the crossover higher than MultEQ's original setting.
Quote:


B. Change the crossover of the LFE subwoofer to 120Hz, if allowed.

The LFE filter is not a crossover, it's a low pass filter.
Quote:


C. Modify the speaker distance settings (excluding the subwoofer) if they were not measured accurately.

This is probably a bad idea. Generally, if your distance settings didn't come out right, you have a bad measurement, and should run it over again, making sure that there are no extraneous noises. If you're sure that the measurements are done in silence, and you still get substantial errors in speaker distance, ask a question on the Audyssey thread, so we can all learn what breaks the system!
Quote:


1. The internal test tones will not be accurate because all post-processing is bypassed.

Where did this come from? Has it been verified?
post #5441 of 62240
Quote:
Originally Posted by audyssey View Post

The fact that the trims were set so high means that you have run out of headroom. There is only so much available gain in a receiver and you have reached the max. Onkyo has implemented their volume control so that turning it up beyond the max headroom limit has no effect...

It's obvious that the installer had no clue, but it is also obvious that there is a huge discrepancy between the efficiency of your main speakers and your subwoofer. This was made even worse by adding gain to the sub using the SMS-1. Have you contacted the installer to ask them to come back and fix this?

If not, I would recommend subtracting 9 dB from each of the main channel trims. The tricky part will be how to set the subwoofer volume. If you have an SPL meter you can use the internal receiver test noise to measure the sub and set the trim. It's not perfect (it will be within a few dB), but will get you close.

Chris

I've been having a similar problem running MultEQ on my new Denon 1909, except that ALL channels (including the sub) are being set extremely high. I've run it a few different times in a nice quiet room, and each time I've gotten similar results: front speakers +11 or +12 db, center about +10, all three surrounds +12, and sub +10. (The distance measurements have been correct by the way.)

I'm worried that by kicking all the channels up so high, MultEQ had no headroom left to differentiate the channels when necessary. For example, my surround left speaker is a few feet farther away than all the others, so I would have expected the level to be a bit louder. But with most of the speakers already +12, maybe it couldn't go any higher.

I'm sort of new at this -- should I be paranoid that my speaker cables are corroded or something? Does speaker volume decrease when that happens, causing MultEQ to compensate? Last thing in the world I want to do is re-strip 24 wire ends. Thanks!
post #5442 of 62240
Quote:
Originally Posted by rahull View Post

Seems to me that using multiple subs would be a problem no matter what you do. In setting up wide area paging systems even if all phases and levels were set equally there were still locations that either canceled or added the signal, it was better to run with a frequency offset (not very desirable when listening to audio).

My fronts have powered subwoofers which I use for LFE (separate input) and I have never had any issues. I just have to make sure they aren't set too loud so they don't interfere with Audyssey's available headroom.

Previously I was using the sub's knob setting (trying to match them) but now I use a sound meter on each one (disconnecting the other) to ensure they are set to the same level before running Audyssey.
post #5443 of 62240
Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles R View Post

I thought it was supposed to be the (exact) center of the listening area?

If possible ensure that each sub is set to the same level (using a sound meter)?

It is the center of the listening area being measured. I need to re-write this bullet so it is clearer.

How about this:

F. Place microphone in the primary listening position for the first measurement.
1. Audyssey uses this measurement to set the speaker distances and levels, so the microphone should be placed in the seating position used the most.


I am still not sure exactly how to handle the dual sub setup, as I think we need more input.

Thanks.

Mark
post #5444 of 62240
Quote:
Originally Posted by giomania View Post

How about this:

F. Place microphone in the primary listening position for the first measurement.
1. Audyssey uses this measurement to set the speaker distances and levels, so the microphone should be placed in the seating position used the most.


I am still not sure exactly how to handle the dual sub setup, as I think we need more input.

I think seating positions are irrelevant beyond the fact they define the listening area. As such for the first reading the mike should be placed in the exact center of the listening area.

Regarding multiple subs I think it's basically the same as having one outside of placing them in the same position at each side of the room (if possible) and having each of them set to roughly the same level before running Audyssey?
post #5445 of 62240
Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles R View Post

I think seating positions are irrelevant beyond the fact they define the listening area. As such for the first reading the mike [sic] should be placed in the exact center of the listening area.

I think Chris and others have stated that the first measurement should be taken from the exact location of where a human sits for the majority of the time, meaning the primary listening _position_.

For example, if you have a three person couch and the "center" would be the middle seat, the primary listening position could also be the left or right seat. In my case, it's the right seat. So putting the mic in the "center" of the listening area would be incorrect as the primary listening position is not the same.

You want the mic were a person would sit most of the time if he or she were alone. The subsequent measurements take into account other positions that people may occupy.
post #5446 of 62240
Quote:
Originally Posted by yngdiego View Post

I think Chris and others have stated that the first measurement should be taken from the exact location of where a human sits for the majority of the time, meaning the primary listening _position_.

I understand the concept of tuning the sound to the preferred seating position but I'm not sure it's related to sound advice.

My wife uses my dedicated theater perhaps more than myself and almost always sits in the back row far left corner seat. Now if you used that position you might improve her sound more than if you used the center of the listening area. However I tend to think you'd be hurting the other listening positions more than you'd be helping hers.
post #5447 of 62240
Quote:


Originally Posted by giomania

E. Set the subwoofer polarization per common accepted practices.

Quote:


This is the same as phase, just with only 2 choices: 0 and 180 deg. Just make sure both subs are set the same.

I will add a note to this effect.

Quote:


Quote:
1. Unless you are a tweakaholic, skip ahead to Microphone Placement (item V).
2. Place the microphone at the primary listening position, run the calibration, and let Audyssey calculate the speaker distances and trim levels.
3. Check the subwoofer trim levels.
a. If the subwoofer trim level is a large positive number, turn up the subwoofer volume a bit and repeat step #2. If it is a larger negative number, turn down the subwoofer volume a bit and repeat step #2. The goal (for the perfectionist) is to obtain a subwoofer trim level close to 0 decibels.

Quote:


The actual requirement here is that the system doesn't run into its maximum or minimum level when setting the sub levels, which would be inaccurate. Just within +-6 dB will work identically to a 0 dB setting.

If the system does hit the ceiling or the floor, doesn't Audyssey report a warning? If so, you have to take action before continuing, right?

Quote:


G. If the sub has an EQ system, use it to tame large peaks before calibrating with Audyssey.
1. Narrow peaks or dips in the response less than 100 Hz that are 1/3 or 1/6 of an octave wide can be improved—but not eliminated—by Audyssey.

Quote:


Could you point to where this statement was made? Thanks.

Right here in this thread, page #1, post #28:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...40#post9648740

Quote:


IV. Dual (mono) Subwoofer Setup
1. If this is not possible, enter the average of the two distance measurements.

Quote:


It sounds like you are suggesting entering a distance before you run MultEQ. Any distances entered before the measurements are done are ignored. If you are suggesting resetting the distance after the measurements, how do you know what to set it to? You don't want to set it to the average of the physical distances, because that ignores the electrical delay, right? I think the only way to set this distance right, is to run the measurements (perhaps abbreviated, as you suggest earlier for the sub level) with only one sub active, to get an idea of how much electrical delay there is. Then you can run the full speaker setup, and afterwards adjust the distance to the average of the physical distances + electrical distance.

Good point. Yes, Chris said not to reset the distance for the subs. I have to see if I can find where this advice originated from. Perhaps that just should be removed.

Edit: I discovered this recommendation came from the Audioholics review of the stand-alone Audyssey EQ unit. I will post a separate question regarding this.

Quote:


Quote:
2. When two subwoofers are driven as one unit, adjustment to the time delay (or, equivalently, the distance) is required so they are aligned to each other.

Quote:


Are there any subs that actually have a delay setting on them, rather than a phase control? If your subs only have phase control, you can't do this.

This was poorly worded, so I will fix it. Adjusting the distance effectively adjusts the time delay.


Quote:


Quote:
There is a 2-ft distance between 2-5 and 3-6, not 1-5 and 1-6. It is geometrically impossible to have a 1-ft distance between 1-7 and 5-7 and 2-7 and 4-7 and 2 ft between 1-2 and 1-4.

Actually, I think the canonical positions for 7 and 8 are 1-ft to the left (or right) and 1-ft in front of the line between formed by 1, 2, and 3. That gives a distance of 1.4 = sqrt(2) ft between 1 and 7. Of course, the exact positions are not important, but if you're going to put those distances in, you might as well be right.

I will try to fix the drawing. I don't know if I can edit it, since I did not create it.


Quote:


Quote:
VII. After Calibration
A. Modify the speaker crossover settings as desired.
1. Setting the speakers to “Small” with a 60Hz – 80Hz crossover is a good starting point.

Quote:


It might be useful to add here that raising the crossover frequency doesn't affect the channel correction, but lowering the crossover starts to feed uncorrected sound to the satellite. You might also note that the sub filter in MultEQ is much higher resolution than the satellite filters, so it can be beneficial to allow more material to be sent to the sub, i.e. raise the crossover higher than MultEQ's original setting.

Thanks. I will add that info.

Quote:


Quote:
B. Change the crossover of the LFE subwoofer to 120Hz, if allowed.

Quote:


The LFE filter is not a crossover, it's a low pass filter.

I will change this. Edit: I was referring to the crossover in the Receiver or Processor, so will clarify the section.

Quote:


Quote:
C. Modify the speaker distance settings (excluding the subwoofer) if they were not measured accurately.

Quote:


This is probably a bad idea. Generally, if your distance settings didn't come out right, you have a bad measurement, and should run it over again, making sure that there are no extraneous noises. If you're sure that the measurements are done in silence, and you still get substantial errors in speaker distance, ask a question on the Audyssey thread, so we can all learn what breaks the system!

I raised this as a possible issue.

Quote:


Quote:
1. The internal test tones will not be accurate because all post-processing is bypassed.

Quote:


Where did this come from? Has it been verified?

Audioholics Denon AVR-5805 review.

Mark
post #5448 of 62240
Quote:
Originally Posted by audyssey View Post

4) Take the maximum number of measurements allowed in your product. The first position is critical and must be in the center of the listening area. After that move to the left and right by 2-3' and then forward by 2-3' and take three more measurements parallel to the first three. The final two should be about 1' to the left and right of the first one and about 1' forward as if to form a triangle around your head. Avoid placing the mic in far off-axis locations that go outside the two front speakers even if you have seats off to the side. The speakers roll-off as you go off axis and that will end up telling the filters to overcorrect in the high frequencies

Here is where Chris covered the topic...
post #5449 of 62240
Quote:
Originally Posted by giomania View Post

VI B. - Where is the best place to be in the room during the measurements? Does it matter, as long as you are not in between the mic and speaker?

I commented on this board several months ago that I got my most accurate measurements and (subjectively) best results when I wasn't even in the room at all. If you have the ability to sneak quietly into another room as you're pressing "OK" on your remote to start, give it a try and see if it makes any difference to you.

Previously, when I was in the room during the process, I was *behind* the surround speakers in a 5.1 setup, so I was definitely not in the path between speaker and microphone. But it wasn't until I left the room to run Audyssey that my distances were accurate.
post #5450 of 62240
Quote:
Originally Posted by bradandbree View Post

I commented on this board several months ago that I got my most accurate measurements and (subjectively) best results when I wasn't even in the room at all. If you have the ability to sneak quietly into another room as you're pressing "OK" on your remote to start, give it a try and see if it makes any difference to you.

Previously, when I was in the room during the process, I was *behind* the surround speakers in a 5.1 setup, so I was definitely not in the path between speaker and microphone. But it wasn't until I left the room to run Audyssey that my distances were accurate.

I crouch down behind the seats.
post #5451 of 62240
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nordo View Post

I crouch down behind the seats.

I suppose the sight of me bolting out of the room before the chirps begin is probably as silly as you crouching behind your seats!

Oh, the things we do for our hobby/obsession...
post #5452 of 62240
I have a Onkyo 885. I have seen reference to chosing the "Audyssey Curve" and the "Flat Curve" when listening to certain inputs. How does one access these "curves"?

Jack
post #5453 of 62240
Page 1, post 1, Audyssey 101.
post #5454 of 62240
Quote:
Originally Posted by reedace View Post

I've been having a similar problem running MultEQ on my new Denon 1909, except that ALL channels (including the sub) are being set extremely high. I've run it a few different times in a nice quiet room, and each time I've gotten similar results: front speakers +11 or +12 db, center about +10, all three surrounds +12, and sub +10. (The distance measurements have been correct by the way.)

I'm worried that by kicking all the channels up so high, MultEQ had no headroom left to differentiate the channels when necessary. For example, my surround left speaker is a few feet farther away than all the others, so I would have expected the level to be a bit louder. But with most of the speakers already +12, maybe it couldn't go any higher.

I'm sort of new at this -- should I be paranoid that my speaker cables are corroded or something? Does speaker volume decrease when that happens, causing MultEQ to compensate? Last thing in the world I want to do is re-strip 24 wire ends. Thanks!

It sounds to me as if the speakers aren't particularly sensitive or there's something very absorptive in the room that's making it require a lot of boost in order to set things to reference level.

What you can do is reduce ALL of the channel levels by the SAME amount, ie by say 11 dB. That will set all of the channels between the -1 and +1 dB range while preserving the current "gaps" between the various speakers. It's the gaps that are important in order to preserve the balance between speakers so you don't want to change them.

If that ends up making the sound levels too low for you when playing a particular source, go to the input settings and add some boost for the input related to the source you're using.
post #5455 of 62240
Quote:
Originally Posted by reedace View Post

I've been having a similar problem running MultEQ on my new Denon 1909, except that ALL channels (including the sub) are being set extremely high. I've run it a few different times in a nice quiet room, and each time I've gotten similar results: front speakers +11 or +12 db, center about +10, all three surrounds +12, and sub +10. (The distance measurements have been correct by the way.)

I'm worried that by kicking all the channels up so high, MultEQ had no headroom left to differentiate the channels when necessary. For example, my surround left speaker is a few feet farther away than all the others, so I would have expected the level to be a bit louder. But with most of the speakers already +12, maybe it couldn't go any higher.

I'm sort of new at this -- should I be paranoid that my speaker cables are corroded or something? Does speaker volume decrease when that happens, causing MultEQ to compensate? Last thing in the world I want to do is re-strip 24 wire ends. Thanks!

If in fact your speaker wire is corroded under the binding posts you could very well reducing the level plus reflecting a high impedance back to the amplifier. If the wire is that bad and can't be replaced try to clean it (not easy) and tin (solder) a short section (1/2") of the end (in a salt water involvement they use wire/cable with individual strands tined).
post #5456 of 62240
Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles R View Post

Here is where Chris covered the topic...

Thanks. I will clarify that section.

Mark
post #5457 of 62240
Quote:
Originally Posted by hclarkx View Post

"Each sub may have the response you mentioned, but what happens when you combine them? I believe they interact and have different responses when used together.

From what I've read, I don't believe they just sum, although now that I say that, it doesn't sound right. I believe subs are linear systems, so superposition should apply."

Noah,

You are absolutely correct. I went off half cocked. One can't separate phase and magnitude (out-of-phase signals produce a null). Etc. It's a lot more complex than that. Just how complex is apparent here:
http://www.harman.com/wp/pdf/Loudspeakers&RoomsPt3.pdf

I suspect that Sound EQ can do a decent EQ with two subs on one EQ channel or with each sub on its own channel. In either case the EQ feeds a known signal, measures the results, and designs a filter to correct any problems. I lean toward the second option though, partly based on this example:
http://www.audioholics.com/productre...eyMultEQp1.php

and partly because with two different sub locations, I think one channel per sub will break the task down and effectively apply more processing power. I.e., if each sub can be individually corrected to provide flat response and the proper phase, then the two subs should look the same from the seating area and thus provide only an SPL increase when the second one is cut in.

The importance of two subs being equidistant from the listening area is stressed here (last few paragraphs on page 3):
http://www.audioholics.com/techtips/...ProPrimer3.php

Clearly Sound EQ can't correct the huge time error from an out-of-phase sub at 20 Hz so it's important that both subs be not only equidistant but about the same distance as the mains from the listeners. Given a reasonable starting condition, I suspect Sound EQ can achieve near perfection.

Interestingly, the Harmon article on page 22 presents a situation where two subs is problematic and removing one (or stacking it on top of the other one) is better. Of course, the author didn't have the benefit of Sound EQ.

Quote:
Originally Posted by plhart View Post

I thought a couple of minor clarifications to my Audyssey Sound Equalizer article might help here…

1. You can put two subs on a single channel of the ASEq and ask the Equlizer to derive a single amplitude and phase correction algorithm only if two parameters are met simultaneously>
a. The subs should be placed symmetrically within the room (i.e. at the two 1/3rd distance points across the front wall or to the left and right sides of the listening area and 1/3rd back into a symmetrical rectangular room)
b) Note that in either of these two examples each subwoofer’s distance to the first position should be identical. Note also that if you don’t have a sealed rectangular room but are listening instead in a rectangular room with, for instance, a large arched open entry the symmetry will be lost.

2 If you do have asymmetry in the placement of two subwoofers than you have no choice but to assign a separate channel on the ASEq to each sub. Again refer to my article. The ASEq MultEQ Pro algorithms solve for both amplitude and phase relative to the prime, (first) listening position.

3. My two subs are different distances from my prime (first) listening position. I average the two distances and input that average in the Denon 3806 which I’m using as a pre-pro. Remember, bass wave lengths are very, very long and the speed of sound is 1130 ft/sec so once you’ve got the two bass frequency responses flattened and the two phases relative to the prime (first) listening position correct then the slight differences in distance from each sub to the prime (first) listening position are all but irrelevant.

4. Two identical subs positioned exactly symmetrically will produce +6dB over a single sub in the same room.

Hope this helps....

Patrick Hart

The above post from Patrick was the basis for the following section on dual (mono) sub setup in my document:

IV. Dual (mono) Subwoofer Setup
A. Place the subwoofers symmetrically within the room.
B. Place the subwoofers at identical distances from the primary listening position.
1. If this is not possible, enter the average of the two distance measurements.

I re-read the above post, and see that item #1 was based on his use of the stand-alone Audyssey Pro EQ and a Denon 3806 AVR.
However, I think he might also be saying that distance variations between the two (mono) LFE subs might not be detectable.

I am looking for input if I interpreted that correctly and how to better convey the information above.

For example, in my room, the two LFE subs are 4.0 and 4.4 meters from the primary listening position, IIRC. That makes the averaged distance 4.2 meters, which is what I entered manually into the AVP. I have yet to run Audyssey, so am curious as to how it would calculate the distance.

Thanks.

Mark
post #5458 of 62240
This is very informative, and a good initiative.

However, I have a specific question for this thread unrelated to the FAQ-process.

I have a new NAD T175. I have run Audyssey successfully, and was please. Everything came out right, distances, trims, and stuff. And it sounded great. But I had to do a few tries before it worked. One time I got Phase warnings on all three front speakers., once my center speaker distance was set to 0.0. Once my left rear gave a 'check type' warning. All of these were subsequent measurements without moving the microphone. Also, the room was very quiet. This was done in an empty house at 5AM, all appliances off, even my PVR and laptop. The levels required for audyssey also varied. Most of the time, all speakers had to be kicked up one 'notch' (the level of the chirp). For one of the measurements all speakers were run at the first chirp level, and for one measurement all were up one level except the left rear, that were up two notches, and it was extremely loud.

I've done many Audyssey setups for clients and friends, and very seldom do Audyssey need to go above the first level, even in a pretty noisy room.

I have quite a bit of acoustical remedies in my room. My reflection points are treated, I have alot of basstraps, and generally give Audyssey good working conditions. Still the results come out very inconsistent.

Any thoughts on why?
post #5459 of 62240
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nordo View Post

However, you have to move in and adjust the mic to the new alignment within the gaps between chirps. Audyssey is still recording during this period, and even the sound of you touching the mic might be enough to throw off the readings.

Yeah that will make it very hard not to make any noise. I assumed it only recorded during the chirps, i made a bit of noise in between.

Has anyone changed the angle for the surrounds and heard a difference in the final result?
post #5460 of 62240
Quote:
Originally Posted by bradandbree View Post

I suppose the sight of me bolting out of the room before the chirps begin is probably as silly as you crouching behind your seats!

Oh, the things we do for our hobby/obsession...

Do you think this is why our wifes frown at our hobby?
However, they don't seem to mind listening or watching.
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AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Receivers, Amps, and Processors › "Official" Audyssey thread (FAQ in post #1)