"Official" Audyssey thread (FAQ in post #1) - Page 1948

 

Do you mean rear surrounds (not the normal side surrounds) as in a 7.1 system?  If so, the first thing to be aware of is that they will make no noise at all if you are using a regular 5.1 track unless you engage an upmixing DSP like Dolby PLIIx. So that is the first thing to try. Some discs (but not many) are now encoded in 7.1 and they will obviously be OK regardless of the DSP being used (or no DSP at all).

 

Second, if you play the test tones from your AVR, do you hear tones from all the speakers?  I not, then they are miswired. 

 

Can you post the trim settings from your Audyssey calibration please?

 

FInally, do you have Dynamic EQ engaged, which will raise the surround levels when you are listening below reference.

 

 

Test sounds are be played from the rears. Yes back rears not side rears .

Here are 2 shots

[IMG]

Holiday,

Go into 'Audio Adjust'>'Dolby'>'Dolby EX' and set it to 'manual'.

 

OK - Cool. And are you using PLIIx DSP when you are playing a 5.1 encoded soundtrack?

 

Do you have Transformers DOTM or War Horse or 3.10 to Yuma or Super 8 or Thor or Tron Legacy or Hugo or The Expendables or The Hunger Games or any of the other 7.1 encoded discs?

Quote:
Originally Posted by davekro
7 Ch. Stereo: In my seat I could not tell where sound was coming from, so that is great.


On second thought, I don't know if my statement makes sense, but from just having done a test in stereo where the sound origination seemed to remain in front of me as I moved to the right of center 3-4'. Where at 4' right, main sound seemed to be coming from the right front speaker, which was directly in front of me. Not a first choice 'for that seat', but listener does not care (my wife). I was not speaking about separation of different parts of the music, just the sound field in general. The 7 channel stereo test was an after thought.

So ended up going through the calibration procedure and hooking up my front left and right DIY subs via each channel on the Integra 80.3 (and set the speaker config to 2CH subwoofer). Decided to ignore the third different SVS subwoofer for now.

After calibrating, I then measured using REW the response with my EMM-6 Mic (calibrated down to 5Hz by CS Labs) and MobilePre setup. It seemed to imply that Audyssey has set my subs 5 db hot compared to the rest of the signal...



I then dropped the subwoofer gain on the DSP Plate amp by ~5db, and then played with the distance control a bit to improve on the 100Hz area and ended up with this for now...



Not bad. Need to EQ the naked response on the subs a bit to tame the hum from 40 to 80Hz. Speakers are crossed at 120Hz.

Have others noted Audyssey setting their FR too high in the bass frequencies? I believe there was a thread in the DIY section about this a while back... could it be because my LP is right up against the back wall and applying too much gain?

Try playing with the subwoofer distance to see if you can make that dip at 120Hz go away.

That was the best I was able to do after adjusting distance.

Took the distance down from 15 feet to ~10 feet which reduced the dip by several db. Anything above or below 10 feet made things worse. Admittedly, I didn't try above 15 feet ... next time.

I know that once I add the third sub in as a filler I should be able to get if flatter as I had the same issue previously with the Marantz. E.g., below is the response I had with the Marantz originally (dark blue), after adjusting distance (purple) and finally after adding in the PB13 in sealed mode (green)...




I'm more interested in why the level is set 5db higher than the mains originally.

 

In every instance in which the blend between my subs and the main speakers was improved by adjusting the distances, the improvement was achieved by increasing the distance.  If you haven't tried that, do so.

 

Also, why did you dial down the gain on the subs, and not simply adjust the trims in the AVR?  Once you change the gain control on the sub, it is difficult to restore the calibration to the original Audyssey state.  When you adjust the trims, getting back is easy and precise.

 

Can you show future measurements with no smoothing?  1/6 smoothing for the bass frequencies masks a lot of problems and makes analysis and recommendations difficult.

Dumb question, why is dealing the gain down on the subs any different than dialling the trim on the processor?

As for distance, don't know. Reducing it started to improve the dip so I went with it and then ran out of time when the kids came home. . Will try the other way when I get a chance.

I actually smoothed it to 1/6 to help understanding the above 100hz response. Below that is pretty smooth even with no smoothing. Will post it when I get a chance.

Have a great Christmas guys. Hopefully there's some new stuff to play with under the tree! Audyssey equipped or otherwise!

 

Because the gain on the back of the sub is usually an analog dial, and the AVR trim is a digital setting.  So, when you raise or lower the sub level by adjusting the sub's gain, first of all you have no digital read-out showing exactly how many dB the level was changed.  Second, if you don't like the sound, you can't restore the gain by exactly the amount you changed it in the first place.  The best you can do is adjust it by ear.  When making a change, it is always better to have a back-out plan to be able return something to its original state (precisely).  It also facillitates more precise A/B comparisons.  Make sense?

Hi guys here is my result after running the aud. Is my result are just fine or i need to re run the aud again? My sub is -7db is that result are just fine or too low foe the sub? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you and happy holidays.

These results look okay, although check that the FR speaker is angled towards the main listening position. The sub is still a little high (although is fine if you don't want to rerun Audyssey again) and could be lowered a bit using the sub gain/volume knob and then run Audyssey again to get it within -3db to 0db.

I put the volume at 12oclock and gain all the way to the end.like how much i need to tweak the sub gain and sub volume from the sub? My crossover are just fine?

Crossivers are fine. No need to adjust the sub but if you want to you will just have to experiment. Differences in how gain is set up from sub to sub makes generalization impossible.

I rerun my aud and here is the result. Is now better than the first one? Thanks. I tweaked the sub gain and that is the sub result.

^^
Yes, all settings and crossovers look good now.

Thank you sir. Merry christmas.

Ah, I thought that was the reason but was wondering if there was something else I was missing. I'm using a DSP based amp with digital gain controls so no issues with analog pots/dials, and I keep the original Audyssey setting in my REW file.



Here is my REW file without smoothing...



Gets ugly above 100Hz.

OK, I understand now. The unevenness above 100Hz is not that unusual. I usually post low frequency graphs with no smoothing, and full-spectrum graphs with 1/12 smoothing.

I have a small(ish) 2.1 system in the bedroom. I'm pretty happy with it, except for the unevenness in the bass response, which I am attributing to room modes. Is this something that Audyssey could do a good job in correcting? The receiver is fairly old, and I'm thinking of replacing it with a new model containing MultEQ processing.

I have a denon avr-4810ci with 3 mono subwoofer outputs. the manual states that all 3 subwoofer outpus all play the same identical signal. i have my two subs connected to sub1 and sub3 out on the denon-avr-4810.

However, I read in the audessey setup guide that it is advisable to use a y-cord to the sub out of the avr to connect both subs,

3.Connect a y-cord to the sub out of the AVR and then connect to both subs

and Chris says that Yes, that is the preferred method even if you have two sub outputs on the AVR.

So why is it preferred? I figured my denon 4810ci just had 3 internal y-splitters for sub1,sub2,and sub3. Would i gain anything from buying a y-cable and only using sub1 out to the y cable?

Just trying to understand how a y splitter can work better than connection directly to the built in sub out preouts on the denon.

update:

just read,.. this in a search on this thread...

http://www.avsforum.com/t/795421/official-audyssey-thread-faq-in-post-1/53790#post_22026514

on another note, I dunno why I hooked up my 2nd subwoofer 2 to the 3rd subwoofer input. I'm hoping that all 3 subwoofer splits are split with equal attenuation. If not, i guess i should move the 2nd subwoofer to sub input 2. Think it will matter?
Edited by proudx - 12/26/12 at 12:02am

I have an Onkyo HT-RC370 with Audyssey MultiEQ XT and I also use a miniDSP for my subs. Would upgrading to an XT32 AVR, like the Onkyo TX-NR818, be worth spending ~$300-400?

As noted in the FAQ, that advise is Onkyo specific, and with AVRs using an internal "Y" cord (as is the case with the 4810CI), your current connection works just as well.

Without knowing exactly what your miniDisp is actually accomplishing, the answer would be yes.

The miniDSP with Room EQ Wizard works really well. It's not perfect, but it is pretty flat now, much better than Audyssey alone. With the upgrade, I would mostly be looking for a potential upgrade with the rest of the speakers. My room is far from ideal.

How would I use XT32 with the miniDSP anyways? If it sets the subs differently, then there would be different signals coming from each sub out? If that's true, then each miniDSP channel would have to be EQ'd separately and it seems like it would be impossible to get them flat overall if I adjust them separately. If you make them both flat with the miniDSP first, then let Audyssey work, I'd be stuck with whatever Audyssey wants.

Right now I EQ them together as one sub. I use one set of EQ bands on the miniDSP to smooth the FR out some, then run Audyssey, then use the second set of EQ bands to adjust how I want. I don't know if that's the best or correct way, but it has worked pretty well for me so far.