To T-nut or not to T-nut??

I considered t-nuts, but in the end, I just glued small blocks of wood to the back of the baffle in each spot where a screw would be. I already had some red oak that I was using for bracing... it's hard and holds screws well without stripping. It was right there in front of me instead of having to wait and pay for shipping, and is probably stronger anyway.

You have to pick the correct size for the holes in the flanges of your drivers, but probably #8 for tweeters and #10 for midranges and woofers would work. The beauty of T-nuts is that you don't have to worry about stripping the wood on the baffle, even if you remove reinstall the drivers repeatedly.

But if you don't install the T-nuts correctly, or in the right kind of wood, they will just strip out.

Me, I have had fine luck using good wood screws in straight MDF (and some OSB). After all, that is whats holding my 15" TC-2K in a vertical orientation.

This is where toothpicks come in handy.

Look into the "Hurricane Nuts" on the Parts Express site. They seem to work much better than a standard T-Nut.

Chuck

Another idea is to use insert nuts {home depot cabinet hardware area}, something like so.
http://www.woodpeck.com/media/main_inserthex.jpg

You drill the correct hole to install those, but before you install them you get some
JB weld epoxy glue as it hardens like a rock and you apply the glue to the nut and
then install it. It's pretty tough after a 24 hour cure. The 5 minute epoxies are rubbery,
don't use those.

That's what I've been using, they work well.

T-Nuts and some Poly Based Glue (gorilla, etc), right into the MDF. Have never had one fail yet...