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Another "my 1st sonosub" thread

post #1 of 25
Thread Starter 
I'm ready to tackle my first DIY sub & hope to get a little last minute advice before I purchase the sonotube & driver. Here's my questions:

I already have a SVS CS Ultra powered by 1 channel of a Samson S1000 (500w into 4 ohms). I will run the sonosub off of the 2nd channel of the Samson amp.

1. Based on 500w, would you recommend a SS RL P15 (D2) or a 15" TC 2000 Single voice coil?

2. I assume I'll end up in the neighborhood of 320 litres...would you recommend 24" diameter sonotube or 20" sonotube? I'm not really concerned about height / size...what ever will be easiest / best.

3. I've read that most people line the inside of the sonotube with insulation or batting. I have some "linacoustic" insulation on hand...can I use that? It's about 3/4" thick w/ fiberglass on 1 side & a backing on the other side.


Thanks!!!
post #2 of 25
1. The Rl-p, I guess.

2. 320 liters gross or net? I prefer 24" for 320liters net, for aesthetic reasons. 22" would be nice as well, but its harder to find.

3. Yes.
post #3 of 25
I am currently building a sonosub from 20" sonotube. It will be ~300 liters. I chose 20" over 24" because the endcaps will require less MDF. Mine is going to end up being just under 6' tall, so it really depends on how tall you want the sub to be.

20" takes up less floor space and requires less MDF for endcaps
or
24" will be a shorter sub
post #4 of 25
As far as insulation goes, I was under the impresson that it is only necessary to line the top endcap with insulation.

Someone correct me if I am wrong, I would like to know before finishing my build.
post #5 of 25
Thread Starter 
I'm planning on using the SS RL-P15 w/ 500W - 4ohm samson amp...please help confirm my build specs:

20" Sonotube
4' 11-1/4" Sonotube length
6" PVC Port w/ Grill on top
2' 5-7/8" Port length
260 Litres net volume
15.6 Hz Tune
Endcaps: 2 pieces 3/4" MDF & 1 piece 3/4" stain grade wood (2-1/4" thickness total)
Insulate interior w/ 3/4" linacoustic insulation & insulate top cap w/ 1-1/2" insulation.

I've been trying to use the "sonosub" to calculate the specs, but I'm not quite sure if I've got the optimal dimensions. (I downloaded WinISD, but need to spend much more time with it to figure out what the heck I'm doing with it!)

Thanks!
post #6 of 25
Thread Starter 
I downloaded WinISD Pro & selected the SS RL-P15 from the drop down menu, but the pre-loaded driver parameters are very different from the values listed on SS's web site. (I'm looking at the D2 driver) When I tried to enter the values manually, the WinISD gives me a "parameter errors list". Any suggestions?
post #7 of 25
260 effective liters and a 6" diameter port that is ~30" long for the RLp-15 D2 is a proven design, it will work nicely. The only issue I see here is that you are choking potential output by limiting power to 500 watts. Ideally, you'd sell the SVS & amp combo, and build two DIY subs. Once you finish the single DIY sub, I'll bet that's what you wish you would have done in the first place
post #8 of 25
Thread Starter 
Thinking about the port...the place where I'm going to buy the 20" sonotube also sells 6" tube, so that's an option for my port. I could probably attach it to the inner MDF layers & use the router on the top cap to form a sort of flare.

I also saw some posts about this item: http://www.thrilleraudio.com/detail.aspx?ID=535

It looks like I'd need the port flares for $31.73 & two 12" tubes for another $12.10. It it worth spending the $50 for this port / flare set up or using the cheap 6" sonotube?

Thanks!
post #9 of 25
Quote:


It looks like I'd need the port flares for $31.73 & two 12" tubes for another $12.10. It it worth spending the $50 for this port / flare set up or using the cheap 6" sonotube?

No it isn't. And yeah, you'd just do a round over on the top-cap where the port attaches so it acts like a flare.
post #10 of 25
Thread Starter 
I manually entered the following parameters for the RL-P15 D2 driver: Qes, Qms, Fs, Re, MMS, Dd, Xmax & Win ISD calculated the rest. I also entered the dimensions.

When I plot the driver, it will only allow me to use a sealed box. When I select a vented box the graph is blank.

Any suggestions?
post #11 of 25
Hmmm, you get a response curve with a sealed box, but not a ported one? I can't think right off what would cause that. Can you post your project file?
post #12 of 25
Thread Starter 
I got an error message trying to upload a wpr file (file type not accepted)...suggestions?
post #13 of 25
You'll need to stick it in a zip file first. There's a limited list of file types the forum software accepts.
post #14 of 25
Thread Starter 
post #15 of 25
Hmmm, either you're using a different version of WinISD than I am and they aren't talking together correctly (I'm on 0.50a7), or something is really screwy with your driver parameters. For example, your cone area (Sd) is showing something like 8 million square centimeters! If that's what you're seeing on your end too, then the driver parameters are wrong. Try these... I can't say they're perfect, but should be close.

 

gt.zip 0.6884765625k . file
post #16 of 25
Thread Starter 
Thanks Darin: I ended up uninstalling & getting new download...got it working now.

On first look, it seems as though you can get a better curve with a higher tune & lower volume...It seems as though the accepted build if for 260l w/ 15.6 tune, but win isd seemed to look better w/ around 125l & a tune around 20.
post #17 of 25
Thread Starter 
I got about 90% of my sub done last weekend...can't wait to finish. One stupid question...I got binding posts from partsexpress: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...umber=091-1245

How do I connect the driver to the binding post? There are two nuts on top of the binding post...do I sandwich the speaker wire between them? There are also two washers & a small metal tap w/ a hole in it...I'm clueless here!
post #18 of 25
You know the metal tabs that go between the nuts? Solder the wire to those, then tighten them down with the nuts.

Or you can use female disconnects to hook up to the metal tabs.
post #19 of 25
Thread Starter 
That will work...thanks!
post #20 of 25
Thread Starter 
I have the dual 2 ohm RL-p15 & I want to hook it up so I have a 4 ohm load...I plan on connecting the driver negative to the driver positive, then hooking the other postiive to the positive binding post w/ the other driver negative to the negative binding post...does this sound right?

Thanks!
post #21 of 25
Thread Starter 
Finished my first DIY sub this weekend...after learning "what to do" by reading from the experts here, I was able to complete the job w/ minimal frustration! Even though it went well...I'd love to start over again, now that I've learned how to use a router & figured out how it all fits together. A few things I'd like to do over: 1. make a fresh cut on each end of the sonotube (had trouble fitting the cap into one end that was a bit beaten up). 2. Cut the tub a few inches shorter - I could only find fabric in 5' width at my local stores...w/ a 5' sub, the fabic misses the sub height by 1/4"!. 3. I forgot to cut the opening in the bottom layer of the cap a bit wider than the two inner layers...so I mounted the driver on the bottom & had to route out the inner ring a bit so my 3" screws would reach the T nuts!

It sounds fantastic...a great compliment to my SVS Ultra. I can now play the sub at reference levels in my fairly large basement.

Here are a few pics of the sub, next to the SVS as well as a few other DIY projects: lighted poster frame, refinished theater chairs & acoustic sound panels.
LL
LL
LL
post #22 of 25
Thread Starter 
A few more pics...
LL
LL
LL
post #23 of 25
Assuming you went the 260 liter and 15hz tune route, the SVS will be bottlenecking your low end reproduction in room. Ideally you would sell the SVS and build a second identical sub. Something to think about
post #24 of 25
hey guys im planning on builing a sono aswell in the next couple weeks.
I was wondering why noone is using the tc3000 tc5200 or lms 15"s from tc-sound .
I'm not really worried about the expence of the sub with what im saving doing the job my self.
I have a crown ce 2000 that I will be using to power the sub.
I'm looking for some sugestions ?
post #25 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by blunt14468 View Post

hey guys im planning on builing a sono aswell in the next couple weeks.
I was wondering why noone is using the tc3000 tc5200 or lms 15"s from tc-sound .
I'm not really worried about the expence of the sub with what im saving doing the job my self.
I have a crown ce 2000 that I will be using to power the sub.
I'm looking for some sugestions ?

The TC-3000 works better in a small sealed enclosure. Most sonosubs are large ported affairs. I assume the same is true for the other drivers you mentioned, although I'm not really sure.
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