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prices ideas (retail) for curved screens (350-400cm 2.35:1) ?

post #1 of 34
Thread Starter 
anyone has ideas of prices for say a 400cm wide scope curved screen
with mat white and or microperforated ?

Stewart
Dalite
other

thanks
post #2 of 34
You know that the new ISF certified supernova flex with custom radius and masking have a 60" high limit (this is the one Henrik asked me a name for and I came up with CurvaScope). thats 1524 mm high by 3658 mm wide at 2.40.

That is your situation with the and DNP ISF Supernova Custom Curved masking unit. (Maybe it should be called the Cloaking CurvaScope)
post #3 of 34
Quote:


have a 60" high limit

I guess my curved masking, microperf screen is a manufacturing defect since it is more than 60" high.
post #4 of 34
DIY: ~$200.00 (Matte White)

Vern
post #5 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Erskine View Post

I guess my curved masking, microperf screen is a manufacturing defect since it is more than 60" high.

You are right I confused 60' with 60". Mea culpa.
post #6 of 34
Thread Starter 
mmh, no ideas ?
i mean retail prices.
Vern: hi. it's made in wood ?
i could also look for a metal specialist (tubular aluminium) that has the tools
to curb the tubes. my 171" wide scope mp screen is laced around a double frame (not curved) and this beast weighs a good 70kg . i need a curve model and mountable
and light.
what about the black masking all around ?
post #7 of 34
1x2 wood framing + canvas duck (sailmaking fabric) + 1 gallon of flat white paint. This is mounted to a set of 1x3's mounted to the wall. The center attaches to the 1x3's that are secured to the wall, the ends are raised off the wall. No vertical masking is required, the screen appears to float in space.

Horizontal masking requires simple curtain tracks. (Not included inthe $200.00). My screen is 61" x 162".

Vern
post #8 of 34
Any suggestions as to the best choice/match among Anamorphic Lens & Scalers to get the best 2.35:1 constant height image/masking set-up for an IN76 projector? 16:9 image size is 6'x14'9". Any idea what this will convert to at 2.35:1?
Thanks--
post #9 of 34
Vern,
I'd be curious to know how your setup compares to high end offerings on the market from say , for example stuart (st130, firehawk...) Sounds exceedingly simple, inexpensive option. Have you ever done an AB comparison?
Thanks
post #10 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by James A. McGahee View Post

Any suggestions as to the best choice/match among Anamorphic Lens & Scalers to get the best 2.35:1 constant height image/masking set-up for an IN76 projector? 16:9 image size is 6'x14'9". Any idea what this will convert to at 2.35:1?
Thanks--

I think your a little out on the math - 16:9 at 6' tall is 10.68 so a "scope" image should be around 14.22'.

With CIH you simply take the height and multiply it by the AR...

Mark
post #11 of 34
yea what cavx said, just take your 16:9 or 1.77:1 and multiply to get 21:9 or 2.35:1 or 2.37:1 ...

ie 6' is 6 foot?... or 1828.8mm that'd be quite big @ 4297mm or about 4.3 meters or 14.09 feet.

I used a sheet of pvc compressed foam board for my curved screen, worked quite well for $160... I have a build in progress on these forums under Home Theatre builds with the curve screen design.
my anamoprhic lense and curve screen for less than $500au
no masking yet, currently have the materials and have cut the hardware & bought some felt for stapling. Also those pvc/foam boards the largest is 3050x1550, so might not be big enough for your application.
Good luck.
post #12 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevodude View Post

Also those pvc/foam boards the largest is 3050x1550, so might not be big enough for your application.
Good luck.

Steve, I was told that they come in 3600mm x 1500mm sheets which works out to a nice 2.40

Maybe I was mis-informed

Mark
post #13 of 34
Thread Starter 
i'm curious on SMX curved frames. it should be marketed soon... well...
post #14 of 34
I made my own curved 110 inch screen using Vern's approach, whose "infinite" wisdom never ceases to amaze me. Wood and duck canvas together was <$100.00.

I added a built - in motorized masking system with rollers on each side (no curtains). With a little of "sweat equity", I have the equivelent of a $10K screen. My cash outlay was ridiculously low.

Don
post #15 of 34
Quote:


I'd be curious to know how your setup compares to high end offerings on the market from say , for example stuart (st130, firehawk...) Sounds exceedingly simple, inexpensive option. Have you ever done an AB comparison?

Kinda difficult to do a A-B comparison between 2 different 5' x 13' screens in the average HT.

However, anyone who has seen my setup expresses disbelief when I describe the screen construction. Everyone thinks it is a commercial screen.

http://webpages.charter.net/tvdias/Screen_small.jpg
http://webpages.charter.net/tvdias/Curtain_small.jpg
http://webpages.charter.net/tvdias/C...open_small.jpg Note: The bright spots in the lower center of the screen are from reflections of the camera flash off a glass table in the room.


Since I was a professional projectionist in movie theatres for 40 years, I have a pretty good eye (and ear) for imperfections of any kind, and I can honestly say that my current screen is 100% satisfactory in my HT. I think that Don will agree, although there was a healthy amount of doubt in his mind on the day he started it.

Many years ago (~20) when I lived in Colorado, I constructed a frame using the same techniques, except that I used a commercial cinema 1.5 gain lenticular screen fabric (unperfed, however) made by Hurly who manufactures screens for comercial cinema applications. http://www.hurleyscreen.com/index.html

If you think about it, screens really don't need to do much:

1. Provide an even surface with no wrinkles
2. Provide a uniform level of reflectivity.
3. Possibly concentrate that reflectivity in a specific area (if the screen has a gain of <> 1.0.
4. If it's an acoustically transparent screen, allow audio transmission with minimal losses.

Items 2,3 and 4 are primarily a factor of the screen fabric. Only item 1 is significantly influenced by the frame construction.

If you are willing to accept a 1.0 gain screen, then the material and the coating (paint) are not difficult at all. If you want gain then, you probably should get a commercial screen fabric for your screen (unless you paint cars for a living, that is).

Vern
post #16 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by CAVX View Post

I think your a little out on the math - 16:9 at 6' tall is 10.68 so a "scope" image should be around 14.22'.

With CIH you simply take the height and multiply it by the AR...

Mark

Thanks guys for responding.
No math here. Just miss read the measuring tape. You don't want me to do math~~The proportions don't look or "sound" right to me either. On the Discovery HD Channel over Sat. the size of the projector image is 6 feet bottom to top and 10 feet 9 inches left to right. Pretty much the same size as I go from HD Channel to HD channel or resize through 16:9, Letterbox, Natural Wide, or Native. 4:3 obviously is much smaller horizonally and vertically.

Some movies fill in the measurements highlighted above while others are the same width but only 56 inches (4 feet 6 inches). Are these 2:35 within the 16:9, true 16:9, and with a scaler/anamorphic lens will the 2:35 CIH be wider/taller than the 10"9"x 4'6"? Some of my regular DVDs such as Gladiator, Stargate, etc. are 10"9"x 4'6" while Vertical Limit and others are the highlighted size.

I am throwing the largest image possible and with that image I only have about 22 inches on each side and I'm to the wall. Any room I need for a screen frame or to accommodate the 3 inch light spill around the image comes out of that 22 inch between the image and the walls. I can reduce the image a lot but will I be ok. I want as large a picture as I can get.

Also, any idea how HD/BR DVDs will work. Are they using the high lighted sizes above or the 10"9"x 4'6" size, or something else. With all the variations and HD I wonder if this is not the time to invest in lens and scalers.

I appreciate you guys helping. This is all pretty confusing for now. As with everything once you spend time enough time with it, it will become second nature. At least I hope so, but I don't want to overshoot the walls!!
post #17 of 34
The majority of HD releases today are 2.40:1 (10"9"x 4'6"). A scaler will do you no good if you don't alter the screens AR. You cannot stretch one dimension (height or width) without applying a like stretch to the other dimension unless you enjoy watching fat (or skinny) people on the screen.

Vern
post #18 of 34
I understand this part-
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vern Dias View Post

The majority of HD releases today are 2.40:1 (10"9"x 4'6"). You cannot stretch one dimension (height or width) without applying a like stretch to the other dimension unless you enjoy watching fat (or skinny) people on the screen.
Vern

I don't understand-A scaler will do you no good if you don't alter the screens AR.

I need more detail to understand what you mean "alter the screens AR". If most DVDs are 2.40:1 any AR manipulation would occur by way of the projector's native 16:9, Letterbox, Natural Wide, or 4:3. So I'm assuming I use the projector's native 16:9 w/an anamorphic lens and scaler to get the CIH 2:35??? I haven't done the screen thing yet but I want to be sure before I do the image will fit properly onto it. I'm still not understanding where I adjust the AR. The projector can change the ARs and the lens/scaler does the stretching. Am I anywhere close to understanding this process??
Thanks for your patience.
post #19 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by James A. McGahee View Post

Thanks guys for responding.
No math here. Just miss read the measuring tape. You don't want me to do math~~The proportions don't look or "sound" right to me either. On the Discovery HD Channel over Sat. the size of the projector image is 6 feet bottom to top and 10 feet 9 inches left to right. Pretty much the same size as I go from HD Channel to HD channel or resize through 16:9, Letterbox, Natural Wide, or Native. 4:3 obviously is much smaller horizonally and vertically.

Even without the lens, your 4 x 3 and 16:9 program should all be the same height. 4 x 3 will not be as wide.

Quote:


Some movies fill in the measurements highlighted above while others are the same width but only 56 inches (4 feet 6 inches). Are these 2:35 within the 16:9, true 16:9, and with a scaler/anamorphic lens will the 2:35 CIH be wider/taller than the 10"9"x 4'6"? Some of my regular DVDs such as Gladiator, Stargate, etc. are 10"9"x 4'6" while Vertical Limit and others are the highlighted size.

It sounds like your measuring the image correctly...

Quote:


I am throwing the largest image possible and with that image I only have about 22 inches on each side and I'm to the wall. Any room I need for a screen frame or to accommodate the 3 inch light spill around the image comes out of that 22 inch between the image and the walls. I can reduce the image a lot but will I be ok. I want as large a picture as I can get.

Sounds like your not using a screen at this time. Yes you will have to reduce the screen hight a bit if you want to go CIH as you need over 14 feet to keep the image based on height you have now...

Quote:


Also, any idea how HD/BR DVDs will work. Are they using the high lighted sizes above or the 10"9"x 4'6" size, or something else. With all the variations and HD I wonder if this is not the time to invest in lens and scalers.

I appreciate you guys helping. This is all pretty confusing for now. As with everything once you spend time enough time with it, it will become second nature. At least I hope so, but I don't want to overshoot the walls!!

Yes you will need both a lens and scaler for HD DVD and BrD...

Mark
post #20 of 34
Quote:


I don't understand-A scaler will do you no good if you don't alter the screens AR.

I probably should have said "the images AR".

It's pretty simple. You cannot stretch the image vertically by using the projector without applying an equivalent stretch horizontally (or compression vertically) with the anamorphic lens. So you two have choices: fill the screens width all the time (constant width) or fill the screens height all the time (constant height). There is no way you can fill both the height AND the width all the time without distorting the image in the process. A scaler will maintain the correct proportions and simply change the overall size of the image on the projector panel.

An HTPC is also an option for both HD DVD and BD CIH projection.

Vern
post #21 of 34
sorry to ask what is probably a stupid question, but I am very interested in the CIH 2.35:1 format. I just bought a Panasonic PT-AE1000 and I have an Anthem AVM50 pre-pro (this is the one with the gennum vxp scaler in it). To do 2.35:1 stuff, if I have a 2.35:1 screen, will my scaler make the picture look right or do I have to also buy a lens to put in front of my projector.

Seems like the lens is as much or more than my projector.
post #22 of 34
Yes you will need a lens if you use a scaler to "rid" the black bars as the geometry (as Vern has explained) will not be correct as the image is 2.35:1 is now modded to fit on a 1.78:1 panel. You have change the height of the image but not the width, so it now looks tall and thin...

Mark
post #23 of 34
Quote:


I made my own curved 110 inch screen using Vern's approach, whose "infinite" wisdom never ceases to amaze me. Wood and duck canvas together was <$100.00.

Yeah ... Vern has been a tremendous help. Don't know where I'd be without... probably still pulling my hair out and weeks behind schedule.


Don,
your 110 inch screen a 16:9? I noticed on the htiq website their DIY masking kit will only handle 16:9, but i'm curious if you modified it in any way for 2.35 .. I'm going to do a 50" high by 120 wide curved w/ motorized masking using Vern's canvas..
thx
Jude
post #24 of 34
Jude-

Of course, 2.35 all the way. Masking is done with 2 motors, one for each roller. Masks are within 1/2 inch of the screen surface. This is IR controlled.

I personally hate remotes, since they tend to grow legs and need re-charging. I have a rs232 interface and plan on going HTPC with a touch screen (fixed!).

Don
post #25 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by CAVX View Post

Steve, I was told that they come in 3600mm x 1500mm sheets which works out to a nice 2.40

Maybe I was mis-informed

Mark

ah could be so, but my room is only 3400 wide & 9000 long
post #26 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevodude View Post

ah could be so, but my room is only 3400 wide & 9000 long

How much "arc" do you need? The 3600mm wide might actually fit for a "wall to wall mega screen". BCC eat your heart out

Mark
post #27 of 34
hahaha yea, I spose I could do my screen wall to wall
post #28 of 34
I am just trying to imagine a 3600mm wide screen in a HT. 3.0m is pretty impressive...

Mark
post #29 of 34
400cm will be huge!...

here's mine diy pvc/foam, 2870mm wide curved...

and I must say, a black masking makes a massive difference to picture, ended up droping the brightness down a few notches...

before:



After
post #30 of 34
Sweet!!! Send Alan an email and be added to the official 235 screen thread...

Mark
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