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What causes this???

post #1 of 34
Thread Starter 
Months ago I made a thread in the DVD section, because I didn't know whether my TV, DVD player, cable, or cable length was an issue.

I have an intermittant problem, and everytime I have tried to "troubleshoot" it it would go away.

Anyway, what I do know is that is it NOT a source issue; Finally verified the problem with another source.

I hate to repeat my other thread, but in short, I have NEVER experienced dropouts or sparkles. I have a total of 31' of HDMI cable. A 25' in-wall section terminated to wall plates, a 3 foot jumper on one end, and a 3' jumper on the other.

Source is an Oppo 971H; Display is a Sony KDFE42A10. Both obviously very popular products at the time of purchase, and I have seen no mention of anyone else having this problem.

Note, that I have NO other issues with any components of mine, except for this.

Other notes; when the problem happens, it happens and there is nothing I can do to get rid of it (giggle the cables, unplug the HDMI and plug it back in, power cycle the source, the display, unplug all components, etc).

Conversly, when I want the problem to happen, there is nothing I can do to duplicate it. It just happens. Also note, res setting on the Oppo has no effect when the problem is present. 480i->1080i makes no difference.

Sometimes the problem happens at initial power on, sometimes in the middle of a movie. There is no pattern.

First pic shows it going "pink". Second pic is normal; third is "green". Note, display device on-screen menus are not affected (they are normal, even though the images below may make is seem otherwise).
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post #2 of 34
I remember see your pics. Seems like you've already narrowed it down to an intermittent problem in your TV. What about power related? How clean/good is your power? Maybe a small surge or drop causes it to kick in.

larry
post #3 of 34
Thread Starter 
I wish I had a definitive answer as of yet, but I still do not.

I do now know for a fact it isn't the source; that much is certain.

Which leaves, the TV, or cable (or cable length).

While I would love to just assume its the TV, the odd thing is I have seen these symptoms on other forums when using "hdmi switchers".

Also, I talked to 1 of my two available local Sony Authorized repair centers (TV is still under warranty), and the owner (really nice fellow) didn't really know what to do. And he's right; if they can't duplicate it, all they can do is "shotgun" it (take an educated guess and replace the most likely part without actually verifying it). Problem is, once I get the TV back, I may not know whether its fixed or not for weeks.

Also, I wonder what happens once the factory warranty lapses and the problem shows back up?

I know this is a repeat thread, but seeing this new forum, I thought I'd throw it in here since its the most relavent place in the hopes that someone may have seen this before.

Maybe I am judging it too quickly, but since this is my first HDMI capable TV, and digital source (Oppo-DVI), the hdmi is leaving a bad taste in my mouth so far.

-Alan
post #4 of 34
I would say that your source, TV, and cables are fine. The problem is most likely with your wallplates. You are essentially coupling three HDMI cables together, which means that the 4 twisted pairs carrying your signal are untwisted and re-twisted twice. The couplings need to be of decent quality in order to accomplish this w/o an issue. What you are seeing is at least one of the 4 pairs (R, G or B) is not being received at your display. It is usually best to test these configurations before installing, for this reason.
post #5 of 34
^ hense the reason i never use wall plates, everything sould be a straight shot IMHO.. wall plates degrade signal and just ads one more possible weak link. i would try to run it direct if you have a spare cable and see if your problems cease. that would be the only way to rule out your wall plates..
post #6 of 34
HDMI signal degradation is not uniform. Even before HDCP encryption the data bits are encoded to something that looks nothing like the original digital RGB or YCbCr values. The PQ problems are not HDMI related. It would be a different story if component cables were being used.

larry
post #7 of 34
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Santz View Post

I would say that your source, TV, and cables are fine. The problem is most likely with your wallplates. You are essentially coupling three HDMI cables together, which means that the 4 twisted pairs carrying your signal are untwisted and re-twisted twice. The couplings need to be of decent quality in order to accomplish this w/o an issue. What you are seeing is at least one of the 4 pairs (R, G or B) is not being received at your display. It is usually best to test these configurations before installing, for this reason.

This is a very real possibility as well, and something I might have overlooked.

However, if true, then that REALLY sucks for HDMI. I have about 30 cables between the TV and equipment rack (TV located above the fireplace in a hole designed for just this purpose, and the equipment rack is located along a living room wall). I have RF, composite, S-video, component, VGA, and all associated audio connections, -EDIT- Including spdif digital audio -END EDIT, all terminated thru wall plates, and have not a single issue with any of those types of connections. Although they are mostly analog (except the spdif), and HDMI is digital, that really is not good at all. Funny thing is I need all those connections for my various sources. If there was a way to drop the HDMI input from the TV and add more VGA connections with more VGA sources, I'd do it in a heartbeat. The quality over VGA, even with these 30 ft cable runs is just amazing.

When I have the opportunity, I will attempt troubleshooting it some more. I have just been extremely busy-only had one day off since Christmas, but I will get back on it as soon as I can. Believe ME, I want this fixed.

-Alan
post #8 of 34
Please read my previous post and save yourself some trouble.

And to add a little more. There's no way the luma (black and white content that gives video the detail) can make it intact with just chroma being affected if the problem is a bad HDMI cable or connection. Anybody who knows how digital DVI or HDMI works would say otherwise. The problem is in the TV given what you said.

larry
post #9 of 34
Alan,
This is a classic example of data FORMAT mismatch. Your source and display are getting confused about whether the signal going across the HDMI cable is formatted as RGB or as YCbCr.

The result is either "shocking pink" or "ghastly green" according to which way around you've got it wrong.

For example, if the source sends YCbCr and the display expects RGB, then the Y signal (gray scale luminance) is misinterpreted as the R signal (Red color brightness). That yields "shocking pink" imagery.

Normally this format stuff is handled automatically during the handshake that sets up the connection. That means you normally would only get a mismatch like this if you explicitly set one end to only use one format and the other end to only use the other format.

However apparently your equipment is having problems getting this right automatically all the time. That's why the problem is intermittent. Your workaround would be to set each end explicitly to use just one format so that the handshake doesn't have a chance to get it wrong.

For an HDMI to HDMI connection the typical default would be YCbCr 4:4:4. For an HDMI to DVI connection (regardless of which end is DVI) the typical default would be Studio RGB, sometimes just called RGB. Try to avoid using "Extended RGB" if you can.
--Bob
post #10 of 34
Thread Starter 
Thank you all, especially Bob and PooperScooper!

To add to what PooperScooper mentioned, I have *never* experienced a blank screen, or even a single sparkle. From what I gather with the digital connection, its either there or not, or if your on the edge of exceeding cable length, you get single bit errors (sparkles) since there is no error correction in the HDMI spec (that I am aware of anyway).

Bob, just one quick question for you, and I think someone may have answered this for me in another thread, but can't recall:

Since the mismatch occurs during the handshake, my question is:

Does the handshake continue repeatedly and continuously?

The reason I ask, is here lately most times at startup/power on is when I see the issue (its getting worse thank goodness), but in the past, it could be correct, and BAM, just go "pink" right in the middle of a movie.

TIA,

-Alan

-EDIT- Also, I will look again to see if there is a way to "force" the colorspace, but I do not recall seeing any options to do so in my TV. And since the oppo uses DVI and blindly sends RGB, there aren't any options on the player for sure.
post #11 of 34
I hadn't noticed that you are using the Oppo 971 which only has DVI output.

The data on the DVD disc is YCbCr. It is supposed to be converted to RGB for the DVI output. As unlikely as it seems, it sounds to me like you have a faulty Oppo which is sometimes failing to do this.

It is just possible that is happening because the Oppo believes your TV will only accept YCbCr input. Try changing the TV to expect RGB on that input.

The HDCP (copy protection) verifcation is re-done periodically. I suppose the data format might get screwed up at that time as well.
--Bob
post #12 of 34
Thread Starter 
I don't know if I have any options on the TV, but I will check.

Well, after all this time (Have had the issue since October, when I got my first DVI/HDMI source), one thing I do know for sure, it is NOT the Oppo. At first I thought so too (and my origional thread is in the DVD section), but they happily exchanged it and I also got the same symptoms with another source (finally, took some time to duplicate it with another source, because this problem seems elusive when I finally go to troubleshoot it-it works fine of course).

Anyway, used my son's PC with a DVI connection, and when I saw the issue with the Oppo, I unplugged the Oppo, plugged in the PC and had the same symptoms.

-Alan
post #13 of 34
I'll admit this is darn peculiar. The fact that it happens inconsistently makes it tough to track down. It's not surprise that the display's OSD come out normal, because that is being rendered internally by the TV and thus is not affected by the HDMI link.

The fact that the behavior is consistent with 2 different DVI devices makes me think that the source is consistently getting a unstable connection, either a bad physical connection (like a pin or solder joint loose), or maybe the source is getting a corrupt signal about the TV's capabilities (maybe the DDC line on the cable is corrupting the TV's EDID capability data occasionally).

One troubleshooting I would suggest is to run from the player directly to the TV with a shorter run cable with direct connection (no wall plates or extensions). If that resolves it, you've narrowed it down to a physical interconnection issue.
post #14 of 34
Just came across this today. Guess what, FirebirdTN....you are not alone!

Saw your pics and found them to be VERY familiar. Becasue I've seen the same issue on the Hitachi F59 series CRT RPTVs when a piece of HDMI gear is plugged into it..

Complaints of HDMI (or DVI to HDMI) sources having intermitent pink/green screen or other freakouts can be found on the Hitachi 57F59A thread over @ the Rear Projection board. Even effected other inputs-component, s-video, etc. (F59s have only 1 HDMI in) if something was attached to the HDMI in.

Several F59 owners who congregate here @ the AVS Forum (myself included) barraged Hitachi with emails and phone calls to their service dept. for several months last year. In January, Hitachi issued a service bulletin to all their authorized service centers that opened with the following:


"Problem: Strange symptoms like TV shuts down, Tint Shifted, All Red, Green or Pink picture, Sync loss, etc when using HDMI output from some Set Top Boxes. Ususally starts after warm-up period of 1/2 hour. May be temporarily corrected by AC reset or turning the TV Off and ON".

Sound familiar?

"Countermeasure: Make the following change to the I2C Service Menu."

Basically a software fix performed in the F59's E2PROM data settings in the service menu fixed the picture abnormalities. I got ahold of a copy of said bulletin and posted the instructions on the F59 Tweaks thread (also on the rear projection board). Now all F59 users' HDMI inputs play nice with whatever they plug into it, either after doing the fix themselves or getting a warranty service call.

Of course, this doesn't help you with your Sony, but if you haven't already, you might want to contact Sony service. Let them know what's going on with your set and that you know for a fact that a similar problem has occured with the Hitachi F59 series CRT RPTVs and was addressed by the manufacturer's engineering dept. by making alterations to certain service menu-level parameters. Those service level software changes were then sent to all authorized service centers to be performed under warranty.

Hope this helps you a bit. At least you are not alone.
post #15 of 34
Thread Starter 
Just thought I'd bump my thread and give an update.

First, thank you to everyone who responded.

Secondly, the problem has been so elusive and/or I have been so busy, and since I didn't get my HDMI source (actually its DVI) until many months after buying the TV, I now only have one month left on the factory warranty. (I do have an extended warranty as well if need be).

So I decided to put it in the shop. I explained in detail, and provided pictures to the tech the problem, so we will see what happens. I can only assume that either they will or won't be able to duplicate it, and either they will or won't replace the HDMI board reguardless if they can duplicate the problem or not. We will see.

Right before taking the TV in, though I noticed something I had never seen before. When the picture was normal, the TV was PERFECT. However, once the issue showed up, I started seeing about a dozen or so pixels flashing on the screen (sparkles I guess, but not very many pixels at all). Again though, when the pic was not experiencing the green/pink issue, it was PERFECT with not a single pixel out of place.

I'll keep everyone posted.

Oh, to the posters above comenting on wall-plates: Although its still a very real possibility (as is my cable length), I would really hope that the HDMI spec is not so tight that the signal couldn't passthrough a wallplate without error. If so, I'll never buy another HDMI product again. With wired computer networks, cat5e/6 has pretty tight specs for twists per inch, and distance between pairs, and they pass thru wall plates without issue at all.

-Alan

PS What is the *official* spec for max length of HDMI? I have read conflicting answers.
post #16 of 34
Quote:
I would really hope that the HDMI spec is not so tight that the signal couldn't passthrough a wallplate without error.

Actually, cheap wall plates are quite likely to degrade the signal significantly.

Quote:
What is the *official* spec for max length of HDMI?

There is no official spec for length. To get a specific cable certified, a manufacturer needs to show that that cable can carry a signal of bandwidth X from point A to point B. If a manufacturer can do that with a 300 foot cable, that cable would get certified. However, because of current cable physics, it's unlikely someone would actually manage to do that with an un-boosted cable :-)
post #17 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by FirebirdTN View Post

Oh, to the posters above comenting on wall-plates: Although its still a very real possibility (as is my cable length), I would really hope that the HDMI spec is not so tight that the signal couldn't passthrough a wallplate without error. If so, I'll never buy another HDMI product again. With wired computer networks, cat5e/6 has pretty tight specs for twists per inch, and distance between pairs, and they pass thru wall plates without issue at all.

HAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAH....

Sorry, had to laugh at this comment since this is the EXACT problem I have been ripping my hair out over for TWO WEEKS. Trying to get a 1080p signal from my Denon DVD-3930CI through an HDMI switch and two wallplates to the TV. Its a short cable run (about 18ft total) and it works at 1080i, but at 1080p I get sparkles. The wallplates DO make a difference and can degrade the signal SUBSTANTIALLY (especially at 1080p). The difference between different wallplates is also substantial.

With the first pair of wallplates I got, I got LOTS of sparkling @ 1080p. I'd say roughly 25% of the picture was sparkles. With the second pair of wall plates I got, that number went down to probably around 5%. Thats a pretty substantial difference.

I've got some new plates coming on Tuesday and a new switch coming on Monday. I've tried so many things on this, I'm getting a little tired of it... just want to watch some 1080p already .

Anyways, the OP pics dont look like a degraded signal to me, thats usually sparkles. That pic looks a defective connection or defective device.
post #18 of 34
By the way, are you trying to pass 1080p? If so, most of the parts out there these days don't work with 1080p (from my recent experience). The second pair of wallplates were "1080p rated" and guess what, they ain't. Same for an L connector and an HDMI switch.

1080p is very sensitive, it uses up almost the entire bandwidth of HDMI, and even the slightest thing will set it off.

HDMI in general is not a very robust standard. It breaks down very easily.
post #19 of 34
Thread Starter 
Nope, no 1080p. My set is 720p. And when I do have issue (the green or pink screen), changing resolutions on my player doesn't do a darn thing. I can cycle it thru all modes, including 480i and still the problem will remain until it just wants to go away.

-Alan
post #20 of 34
Thread Starter 
Update:

There may be some light at the end of the tunnel afterall.

I just called the repair shop (its only been a week and a half), and asked them the status of the TV; they said they have a board ordered.

I explained to the person who answered the phone that I am in no hurry for the TV, and for them to take their time, and that I had a very intermittent problem that I explained to the tech in great detail when I dropped the TV off. I just mentioned that I was just curious as to whether the tech was able to duplicate the problem.

Turns out, he was!!! Although the person who answered the phone said the part had not arrived yet, and seemed to intimate that although they were able to duplicate it, they weren't able to troubleshoot it, and they would have to wait and see whether the ordered part fixes the issue.

Fingers crossed.

-Alan

PS The one thing I forgot to ask, and am curious of...Lets say I get my TV back, and the symptoms come back in a month (out of factory warranty), would I still be covered by Sony since the issue had not been resolved when reported when the TV was in warranty? It doesn't really matter, I have an "extended" warranty thru the place I bought it-I just feel more comfortable working with the Sony authorized local shop than sending the TV off somewhere. Since I have an electronics background, its nice to be able to give full details face to face with the tech.
post #21 of 34
Thread Starter 
update:

Got the TV back yesterday. So far, so good! Watched a couple movies, and no problems at all.

Only time will tell, but I will be soooo happy if I never see the problem again. I was starting to worry about my 31ft total length HDMI run (25' in wall, terminated to two hdmi wall plates, and a pair of 3 ft jumpers at each end).

-Alan
post #22 of 34
Thread Starter 
Well, it happened again. 8(

Guess I will call the shop and see if the tech did in fact duplicate the problem, or whether he just "shotgunned" it. If he did, they didn't replace the correct part; if he didn't actually duplicate it, then it could still be my cable length/wall plates.

I'll find out tommorrow. I'm not upset; knew this was a hard problem, but highly dissapointed.

-Alan
post #23 of 34
Thread Starter 
Another update...

Called the shop and asked to speak directly to the tech. Got the tech that worked on my TV, and he told me that they could NOT actually verify the problem (must have been miscommunication when I asked about it earlier in the week with the person who answered the phone).

Anyway, he said it took some convincing, but he convinced Sony to allow him to go ahead and change the "P" board (HDMI input board).

Soooo...

I have eliminated the source, I have eliminated the TV. I have exhanged all the cables in the chain, except the 25' run, which I find hard to believe would be bad and exhibit such intermittent symptoms. Although it *could* still be bad; its doubtful.

Which leaves the wallplates. I now have a set of Etherreal plates on the way.

-Alan
post #24 of 34
It could be a design incompatibility between the source and the destination, where the video format handshake is re-done every so often, but fails once in a while, and the source sends something different than what the destination expects. If this is the case, then changing either part of source or destination won't make anything better, because it's "working as designed" -- it's just designed poorly. If you're in software, these kinds of problems are with you every day. The rest of you poor people are just seeing the tip of the iceberg -- and it will only get worse, if the current trend is any indication (in all parts of electronics).
post #25 of 34
Thread Starter 
Thanks for reading my thread. It is frustrating for sure, and while there is always that possibility of compatibility issues, I have two of the more popular products here at AVS; The Oppo 971, and the Sony KDFE42A10. With as many owners of the Oppos and Sony sets, it seems that someone else should have reported issues by now, but you just never know.

I really feel sorry for those people experiencing problems with complex setups. Mine is pretty simple; no switches, no HDMI on my AVR, etc. Just a single source (DVI actually) and a single port on the destination (HDMI) with a rather long run going between the two.

I'll tell you what, though...I guess its enevitible, but I *sure* hope they don't cripple the component outputs in the future on settop boxes/satellite receivers. This whole debacle has made me just want to run right out and upgrade my equipment with more HDMI inputs on the TV and more HDMI sources (heavy sarcasm).

-Alan
post #26 of 34
Firebird, let me know how the Ethereal wall plates work. I plan on wiring with HDMI wall plates and would like to be able to watch 1080p eventually. I am just concerned that I might have to pay $270 for wall plates!
post #27 of 34
Thread Starter 
Will do. Although, all I am trying to do is 720p!!! But if it fixes the issue, I will be a happy camper.

I'll say this, they are *damn* expensive for what they are. A pair of circuit boards, and a line driver. But I realize they are a brand new product, and a good share of that is R&D. (The circuit board design, although contains no active components in the picutre data lines, is crucial in to maintain the delicate impedance). As long as they solve my issue, they will have been worth every penny as far as I am concerned though.

If they do fix it, on the other hand, I'll be pissed off that I wasted $80 in "cheap" wall plates to begin with!

-Alan
post #28 of 34
Thread Starter 
Well, its probably too early to tell; I've had this issue for sooo long, and its sooo elusive, I am just expecting it to happen again.

Also, I only have one of the wall plates installed; I sent the other back for an exchange.

Anyway, *crosses fingers*, so far so good. Haven't really gave the DVD player a real workout yet, but we have watched a couple movies on it, and I have turned in on and off every day just to see if the issue is still there.

Its just soooo strage that the picture data (high speed/high bandwidth) would make it there intact, yet the DDC data (low speed/low bandwisth handshake/colorspace) would get fubbared along the way. I just don't see how they screwed the pooch on those specs.

Anyway, the one wall plate that is installed is the active one with line driver IC to help to low speed data.

Again, its too early yet to draw any conclusions, but I did want to let you know I haven't forgot about your request, and that so far.....so good, but only extended time will tell.

-Alan
post #29 of 34
Alan:
I thought it might be yours when sales called me the other day about two pins soldered together (sigh, sh*t happens: I just wish that it would not happen to me).
There is unfortunately a very explainable reason for the low speed issues.
However since none of my competitors has figured it out yet I ain't telling.
Please keep me apprised.
post #30 of 34
Thread Starter 
Thanks for checking in. By the way, I felt kind of silly sending that one plate back, but I don't know if the HDMI/DVI interface is short circuit protected, and it *looked* as if two of the pins were bridged.

I know you have to keep quiet due to competition, but damn, I wish you could explain.

We gave the DVD player a real workout this weekend, and have not had the issue (again, its probably too early to tell, as I have went *weeks* inbetween seeing it).

I guess what I am baffled by is the fact that there is a line driver in the installed wall plate. Well, that line driver is closest to the TV, so it is only 3 feet away. However, that also means the source is still 28 feet away from the line driver. If this works then I will really be confused, because logically, that would mean that the line receiver in the TV is pretty darn weak. Also, I worry about maybe the line driver in the DVD player being weak, and the WP2 not getting enough signal from the DVD player since the WP2 is still a good 28 cable feet away, and ultimately, the problem will come back.

I know, I worry too darn much, but I have been pulling my hair out over this, and it doesn't make a lick of sense to me, other than the fact the DDC data rides on unbalanced lines, but then again, I have a VGA connection, and use a 25' VGA extender cable I use to hook up my laptop, and it has NO PROBLEM with recognizing the display device every time! (with the 33' inwall of VGA, and 25' external, thats over 50 feet!!!).

Anyway, thanks for stopping in, and I will keep you posted, but so far....so good!

-Alan

PS. For clarification, what doesn't make sense is the picture data makes it perfectly intact (no sparkles), yet the DDC data doesn't! Only thing I can imagine is the balanced TDMS lines vs the unbalanced DDC line. (I am a broadcast engineer by trade, and am all too familiar with the advantages of balanced lines/circuits)
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