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? Adding tactle tranducers to new Berklines

post #1 of 18
Thread Starter 
I've got three new Berkline chairs. I have mounted three tactle transducers to the chairs. I just wonder if yours are mounted the same way? I'm asking because I'm just not getting the same amount of noticable "action" from the T.Ts. with my Berkline chairs.

Here's how I mounted my T.T.s .
On the bottom of the chair there is a black metal frame of angle iron that the whole chair rests on. It makes a complete square to hold the body of the chair. In the center of the two side pieces of this frame there are two holes. I attached my tactle tranducers to a piece of hardwood that measures approx 8 inches by 17 3/8" and secured the longer ends of the wood to the frame by screwing 2 inch screws into the two holes on the left and right sides of the base of the chair frame.

I do feel the low bass through the arms, but very little through the seat of the chair like I used to with my old cheaper smaller chairs. Have any conclusions or suggestions?? Is this normal on a quality chair??
Thanks, Tom B.
post #2 of 18
Sounds like you've done a good job at installing them. What kind of transducers are you using? Berkline factory installs Buttkicker LFE's or Buttkicker Minis on smaller seats like the 086, 088 and 45004. Are you using Buttkickers or another type of transducer? Also, what are the specs on the amp?

Ken
post #3 of 18
What kind of transducer is it? Is it a ButtKicker? Typically, the way you have mounted it would make it shake pretty well. Kinda leads me to believe that the transducer isn't getting enough power or the frequency cutoffs aren't set up properly.
post #4 of 18
Thread Starter 
Thanks to both of you for the comments. Yep, it's the smaller, lower powered AURA that I got back in the 1990s. I power them with my older 50 watt per channel Denon stereo receiver.

I have two of the AURAS wired to the right channel in series under my sofa at the rear of my theater and they still do great. I wired them in series because they are rated at 4 ohms. Of course, that way the receiver sees 8 ohms.
I wired the other three under my Berklines in series to the left channel. That way the receiver sees 12 ohms. Of course I use the LFE output from my preamp as the source for my Denon.

In the past, this has always given me more than enough "action". I used to turn the volume on the Denon to about the 11 or 12 o'clock position, with the balance adjustment turned,( to the left to about 9 o'clock), to favor the output to the three chairs. Now I've got the volumn up to the 4 o'clock position, almost max, with the balance level almost all the way over to the left channel feeding almost all the power to the three AURAs under the Berklines. I still just barely feel the AURAS under the Berklines.
Thanks again, Tom
post #5 of 18
For what it's worth, I've always seen the AURA's installed underneath the seat springs, so I guess I was under the impression that they weren't meant to shake an entire frame. Any way to just crank 'em for a similar effect?
post #6 of 18
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mccabekyle View Post

For what it's worth, I've always seen the AURA's installed underneath the seat springs, so I guess I was under the impression that they weren't meant to shake an entire frame. Any way to just crank 'em for a similar effect?

Thanks Kyle,
Now that makes excellent sense. Do you remember how they were attached to the springs?? I really didn't think of that. Maybe I could attach the boards they are mounted on to the springs???
post #7 of 18
I'm not familiar with the Aura shakers but what Kyle is saying makes perfect sense. And what kind of seats were they hooked up to previously?

Ken
post #8 of 18
Thread Starter 
Ken they were those recliners with the complete frames made from the black metal tubing. The tubing supported the arm rest too. Seat cushion and back cushion were very thin filled with foam. I only paid about $100 for each them. Like I mentioned earlier.....
Quote:
I do feel the low bass through the arms, but very little through the seat of the chair like I used to with my old cheaper smaller chairs. Have any conclusions or suggestions?? Is this normal on a quality chair??
Thanks, Tom B.

Thanks for your reply..... the question now is : what would be the best way to attach the AURAS to the springs.... As I think all of you know, the springs are not coil springs but flat springs that kind of look like this:
[
]
[
]
I don't know the correct terminology, but I'd probably call them "leaf springs".
post #9 of 18
I looked at a picture of them online but can't think of a decent way to mount them.
post #10 of 18
Thread Starter 
About the only thing I can think of is to mount the AURAS on a piece of plywood that is just a little bigger than the base of the TTs. Then maybe wire the plywood with the Auras attached to the springs at the four corners .......
Any better suggestions?????
post #11 of 18
That may work, but you might end up with some serious rattling under there.
post #12 of 18
Well, I don't sell the AURA's, but I know a good company that does - www.seatsandchairs.com. They may be able to help you out. It wouldn't hurt to email them and ask.
post #13 of 18
Here's how I did it with my Berkline's, and they work great.

Cut a lenth of wood that fits over the front and back metal base of the bottom of the chair. If you have auto recline, make certain that you choose a spot that does not interfere with the motor. Drill 4 holes in the wood and then mark these spots on the metal frame. Use a good bit, and oil, and drill 4 small matching holes in the metal frame to attach the wood. Attach the bass shakers tightly to the wood (top of the shaker facing up) using thier pre-drilled holes and some nuts/bolts. Then attach the wood piece to the chair with the holes your just drilled and nut/bolts (bolt facing up as well). Make certain evrythign is tightened well, and the results should have your entire chair shaking.

I tried securing them to the springs with twisty ties, and this does work, but the shake is more or less coming right from beneath youu where ever the shaker is sitting. Attaching it to the frame gets the whole chair shaking and is a much better effect.
post #14 of 18
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by barhoram View Post

Here's how I did it with my Berkline's, and they work great.

Cut a lenth of wood that fits over the front and back metal base of the bottom of the chair. ?? Over ?? Do you mean above??? If you have auto recline, make certain that you choose a spot that does not interfere with the motor. Yep, I made sure of that. Drill 4 holes in the wood and then mark these spots on the metal frame. My chairs already had two holes predrilled in the left and right sides of the frame. Use a good bit, and oil, and drill 4 small matching holes in the metal frame to attach the wood. Attach the bass shakers tightly to the wood (top of the shaker facing up) using thier pre-drilled holes and some nuts/bolts. Yes, I did that. Then attach the wood piece to the chair with the holes your just drilled and nut/bolts (bolt facing up as well). Facing up?? The holes in the frame at the base of my chairs were drilled in the vertical part of the angle iron frame. Therefore my screws holding the wood were running horizontal. Make certain evrythign is tightened well, and the results should have your entire chair shaking.

I tried securing them to the springs with twisty ties, and this does work, but the shake is more or less coming right from beneath youu where ever the shaker is sitting. Thanks, I wondered about that. Attaching it to the frame gets the whole chair shaking and is a much better effect.

Do me a favor, read this and see if it is anything like the way you did yours:
Quote:


Here's how I mounted my T.T.s .
On the bottom of the chair there is a black metal frame of angle iron that the whole chair rests on. It makes a complete square to hold the body of the chair. In the center of the two side pieces of this frame there are two holes. I attached my tactle tranducers to a piece of hardwood that measures approx 8 inches by 17 3/8" and secured the longer ends of the wood to the frame by screwing 2 inch screws into the two holes on the left and right sides of the base of the chair frame.


Please let me know if I'm not understanding what you did..... won't be the first time.
Thanks, Tom
post #15 of 18
Thread Starter 
Just thought I'd let you know that I have found a lot of answers to my questions on Roman Shenkerman's website. He sells the Buttkicker TTs.

Also, as you probably know, he has the Berkline Powerbuy going on right now. Very interesting as to the way they suggest, and show with the kit, isolating the TT action so it remains with the chair. It works too. Thanks to all of you for your suggestions.

Kyle,
The site you suggested was also even more helpful. they had pictures that showed me that I had done the right thing too.
Regards, Tom B.
post #16 of 18
Tom, Keep in mind that when you changed the load from 8 ohms to 12 ohms, you also reduced the power to the Auras. If you had 100 watts going to your Auras at 8 ohms, that same volume setting would only give you 66 watts at 12 ohms. It is not surprising that you have to turn the level up. You may want to try just using two Auras in series to compare with your settings on the sofa.

..Doyle
post #17 of 18
Tom,

In answering your questions from above, Yep. That's pretety much it. I didin't notice the pre-drilled holes, so drilled my own...but I mounted the OVER the black frame with the bolts inserted from the bottom through the metal and then through the wood, with a washer and bold tightening them down from the top.
post #18 of 18
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the reply Doyle. I knew that, but I just didn't think much about the 33% drop in power. Thanks for the obvious reminder.

barhoram, I understand. Thanks for the clarification for my brain.

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BTW just for the record. I put some rubber, not hard plastic, but real rubber cups under the four corners of my chair frame where the small round feet extend down to the floor. That made a big difference to decouple the chairs from the floor. I now get more noticable "action" thanks to the information about the Buttkicker's Kit on Roman Shenkerman's website.
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