***Official HSU owners/support thread!*** - Page 64

Based on the supplied instructions, I, too, had thought that running my 3.3 Turbo in the "2 ports open" (Maximum Output) mode was a no-no. Still, I appreciate Pete's assurances that I can try it that way, in addition to the "1 port open/turbo" (Maximum Extension) mode. I haven't tried resetting my sub to Maximum Output yet because I am very happy with how it sounds when set to Maximum Extension but I may try it before long.

What happened with using cyberbri instructions with calibrated the subs?

You still do it part of that way with the true subs and MBM'S, except you calibrate subs together in pairs (not individually) with the sub gain at the same place on the dial. That's the only difference!

Bill

So you have to make sure gain on both subs are the same? So it doesnt matter if you are hitting 75 dbs individually? Or do you make sure both subs together hit 75dbs with gains exactly the same.

When you are running the test tone on your receiver what do you set the sub level on the receiver to? By the way I have a Onkyo 805.

Gain on both subs set the same (mine at 9:00) and then the reciever pink tone played and set at 75 db (mine at 79 db). The gain is the same on both, and the reciever db done with both on together. The reason that I have a higher db is that I compinsate for the Anti Mode controler and I like more bass in myh movies. The MBM's are set the same way.

Bill

I have a Pio '94 and you set the reciever db to the minus side and mine is at -5. If I was running flat at 75 then I would be at -7.5 or so. This all depends on how you want your bass to sound. More db on the reciever means less gain on the sub/s. The reciever db works for me due to the mains hitting +2.5 so you want your db to be lower then the mains setting and not higher. Still refer to (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1081017 and try to read it all.

Bill

I will be setting up my MBM-12s across from each other three feet in front of the main listening position. One on the right side of the room under a end table and the other on the left side under another end table. Which way should I point the ports to? Should I point them to the back of the room towards the main listening position? Or should I point them at each other? Or does it really make a difference?

I just got my second MBM-12. I started calibration at set one MBM my old one. Then I set the new one and noticed I had to turn up the gain alot higher than my old one. When I match the gain on both of my MBMs I noticed the old MBM is at 80dbs while the new one is hoovering around 63dbs. Remember all the settings are the same on both and using same cables. Is the new one defective in some way?

Call and ask Pete HSU.

Bill

I did call Pete and he told me on the newer MBM-12s the gain is less sensitive than the older ones. This is why the gain needs to be turned up higher in order to match the older one.

I would then match the gain by spl and then do the calibration at the reciever db as before. Or, do the calibration as individual subs and not in pairs, up to you. However, I find that calibration in pairs for me gave me a better slam then individually.

Bill

Check out my graph of my Dual 3.3 and Dual MBMs and tell me what you think.

I have my ULS paired with an ED A7S-450 my system sounds great!!!
I am happy!!!

New review at secrets
http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/speak...-speakers.html

I'd like to thank Ross Jones and Dr. John Johnson for the great review on the ULS-15 and HB-1 MK2/HC-1 MK2

Some of you may be wondering why THD was 15% @ 20Hz @ 100db with mic 1 ft away from the cone. In Dr. Johnson's room, at the location where the ULS was placed, notice from the frequency response graph at 1 ft distance that there is a deep bass suckout where 20Hz is 6db down vs 60Hz. This inflates the 3rd order harmonic with a 20Hz test tone, which is what caused THD to be relatively high at that frequency. With outdoor measurements, the ULS would be no more than 1-2db at 20Hz compared to 60Hz.

In our own demo room, where we don't have a deep bass suckout, THD @ 1ft from the ULS-15 was actually less than 5%.

So the moral of the story is to use some caution when comparing results from one room to another or to outdoor measurements. In fact, even a small change in position within a given room will mean that data cannot be easily compared between one sub and another. The ULS must be in a different location than the JL subs that Dr. Johnson measured, because there is not a prounced 45Hz suckout on the frequency graph at 2m distance with the ULS.

Good thing to know Pete.
Great results anyway on both products!!!

I added another MBM. Can you help me on how to calibrate the dual MBM with the Dual 3.3s? I am getting a little confused with this quote (Engage the subs' xo, turn all subs on, and calibrate the combined output of the sub and the MBM to match the level of the speakers). How do I match the level with all four subs on? Do I adjust the gain of each sub or do I adjust the receiver level?

I recently recalibrated my system,this time with the avr master volume at 0.0db.the master volume's range is -60db to +16.5 db(yamaha rx-v1800)
My speakers volumes(in the avr setup menu)are...
fl -10 (range is -10 to +10)
fr -10 (range is -10 to +10)
center -8.5 (range is -10 to +10)
ls -8.5 (range is -10 to +10)
rs -7.5 (range is -10 to +10)
bs(back surround) -8.0 (range is -10 to +10)
sbwr -3 (range is -10 to +10)
lfe 0 (range is -20 to 0) manual states this is only used when bitstream is decoded
avr crossover =80hz
mbm gain =12 oclock position
hsu 3.3 ho gain=12:30 position
mains are calibrated to 75 hz
subs are calibrated to 80 hz
i could drop the swfr level to match mains -10 but then id have to turn up gain on subs,which from what i understand is already pretty high(12 to 12:30)
the mains are cut all the way down to -10(minimum setting) to get 75 db with master volume at 0.0 db.
does this look reasonable,is this any harder on the avr than setting the master volume down and raising speaker levels up to get to 75 db?
Sorry for the long post
Thanks
Dean

I just ordered a BEHRINGER DSP1124P will this help me out? Anyone have any comments regarding this purchase will this improve my current situation or do I need to do something else.

I am not a big proponent of saying something is excellent, however, given the cost/value of the mbm's...these things are EXCELLENT. My room now how has more punch then ever and compliments my whole system, especially the mains. Never thought this would increase the feel of my sound. Amazing how it compliments everything. Mid bass...awsome. 1st movie I watched on it, kung fu panda BR, unbelievable!

Just for reference, I watched it with mbm12's off and then on. There is just more of a detailed punch with mbm12's. Still very good without them but when I turned them on, the difference was amazing...everything just seemed TIGHT. I know every room is different acoustically, but for me, this is the best purchased I ever made for a woofer.

My set up in a 2600 cubic foot room:
(7) aperion 5t series speakers
(1) 3.3 w/ turbo (gain @ 9:30)
(2) mbm12 (gain @ 9:00 on 1 and 9:30 on the other)

All set up with AUd and subs tweaked with spl meter

Placement...3.3 in front left corner, 1 mbm12 front right corner, and 1 mbm12 nearfield behind sectional. I treid other placements but this worked perfect.

VERY HAPPY!

Here is how I set mine up...probably wrong but it sounds great to my ears/body as well as others who have listened.

I ran AUD and had all the speakers done and main sub done as well (crossover set to out and from the receiver I set the sub @ 100), not the mbm12's, mbm's off. BTW, main sub, gain was set to 9:00 before I ran AUD. After I ran AUD, I used an spl and set the main sub approx 2 db's hotter from the reciever, not the gain control on the sub.

After settings were saved, I turned off the main and went to manual and started to set the mbm's individually with gain @ 9:00 on both. I had the receiver take care of the crossover for me (set @ 100 as well), just like the main sub. I tested with all speakers and dialed in a reading about 2 db higher then other speakers using the gain on the mbm. I then turned off that mbm and turned on the other and repeated the same thing as I did for the first. It turned out the nearfield one, I had to turn the gain up slightly (9:30) to get them same output to match the speakers (2db's higher), probably because it was behind the sofa. now both mbm's are set the same. Then I turned on both mbm and did a manual check to see if combined output is 2db's higher. It was in fact close so I did no further adjustments.


Now I went and turned on the main sub and changed the crossover internal in the sub at 50 and turned on the mbm's and double checked combine input of the subs, and the results were about 2db higher then surrounding speakers.

Now one thing I did do is turned the gain up slightly on the main to "my taste" for a little added shake using reference material like WOW. The gain knob on the 3.3 is very touchy, if you end up putting to much gain, you'll be running it way to HOT and creating problems. The main is the only one I adjusted to my taste for rumble. I personally like the added rumble, mbm's were never touched. I ended up turning the gain up to maybe 9:30, may even be a little less.

After all settings, everything seemed to be perfect...excellent rumble with very tight punchy mid bass. Not sure if its done corectly, but my ears and body sure did like the result.

Not sure if anyone has been to Disney but it now feels like I am watching a movie at one of the disney parks. You feel like your "in the movie". Actually, the sound/punch/rumble is way better at home. Now if I can just figure out how to apply sense surround, like bee stings, smell, rain...now that would be cool...hehehe.

mcoop - from your post it looks like "You" did turn off the 50 hz crossover on the 3.3 before you calibrated that true sub, and then after the calibrations were done with the MBM's, the true sub 50 hz was turned back on and with all subs on then you did a pink tone test to confirm your final sub setting?

Bill

For VTF-3 Mk3 users, a question:

If you've experimented with Extension Mode vs. Output Mode, or with/without Turbo, could you share which setup you finally chose... and why?

I have dual turbos in max extension I prefer my this way because of how deep the bass goes.

Bill,

thats how I did it. I used the crossover from the receiver to calibrate the main sub to equal the speakers. Then switched it back to 50 and used the sub's internal crossover.

After I did everything, I checked the main sub, set at 50 with the sub doing the crossover and found very low spl on the meter compared to my speakers. I then raised the gain knob to about 2db higher. Bad mistake. It really ran way to hot so I returned it to the original setting and tweaked it up using WOW to the point that I liked.

I did turn on all the subs and checked calibration with the speakers and the total was about 2db's higher. Since my spl reading was very low with the sub, I am not sure how much the main would increase overall readings.

Like I said, not to sceintific, because I ended up tweaking the main sub up to the point that I liked for rumble. I feel the mbm's are done correctly, but not the main sub...I watched several movies and kung fu panda, and I was able to dial in the amount of rumble that I like with plenty of PUNCH from the mbm.

I have the turbo and have mine set w/turbo.

Yeh, that's how I set my two MBM's and two 3.3's. The low end on the 3.3's (50 hz down) by themselves don't have much rumble, however they will come on when needed. I run mine about 77 db then I engage a 25-35 hz lift (it gives a 4-6 db boost in that range) on my Anti Mode 8033B (an LFE standalone EQ). It sounds fantastic now with lots of slam.

Bill

My 3.3's in MO mode. Turbos and ME mode sounded too "dull or dumbed down" for me.

Bill

I have a Onkyo 805 which uses Audyessy. Could I use a BFD or ANti Mode 8033. Can you use one of these along with Audyessy?