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***Official HSU owners/support thread!*** - Page 18

post #511 of 5959
Quote:
Originally Posted by audiofreak38 View Post

bori if you have your speakers calibrated to 75 db then run the sub say at 77 db. That would be considered a bit hot. I run my auto set-up first then recheck w/my RS SPL meter. It does the job for me. I also recalibrate my sub to the Rives Test CDII so ensure that I am getting a close to a flat response as I can. Run the Audessey program and then recheck with your RS SPL meter. Afterwards, go back to the sub a set the level so that you are reading 77-78 db. Then adjust from there. Only you can decide if that works for you. If your sub sounds like it is drowning out your fronts then adjust the level down a notch by 1db until it sounds the way you want it to. Likewise, you may need to turn it up and run it even hotter but I doubt you will. Hope this helps.

I had the volume set to half way and the receiver to 0 during the U-571 depth charges and I heard some muffling during the depth charges. Was that normal or did I have the setting too high. I thought this sub can handle these scenes with ease. Please let me know what you think.
post #512 of 5959
Quote:
Originally Posted by bori View Post

I had the volume set to half way and the receiver to 0 during the U-571 depth charges and I heard some muffling during the depth charges. Was that normal or did I have the setting too high. I thought this sub can handle these scenes with ease. Please let me know what you think.

I am sure the 3.3 can handle that scene IF it is calobrated properly. Have you done that? When calibrating turn the gain to about 1/4 then adjust from there. It is better to turn the level on the receiver up a bit if need be before turning the gain way up on the sub. I am not sure you would really need to run the sub hot or not. I did not need to in my room but when listening to music I would on occasion turn the volume on my receiver up to somewhat reference levels depending if my neighbor was at home. She leaves a lot during the day and comes home in the very late afternoon so I take advantage and crank my set-up up some. It is very important to calibrate w/Audessey then check w/RS SPL meter. You can also check again with Avia OR the Rives Test CDII. Once fully calibrated, then if you feel the need recalibrate the sub a bit higher to 77db or 78db. The idea is to allow for a smooth transition between the X-over point of the mains to that of the sub. If done properly, the sub will NOT sound localized depending on how high the X-over point is set. Mine is at 80 Hz. The higher the X-over point the more localized the sub becomes. Personally, I prefer to not know where the bass is coming from. It is sooooooooo kool when you get that effect!!!!!! My Primus speakers image superbly and thus when the bass is not localized the sound just freaks me out giving me a "you are there" sensation. This is the only way I know how to explain it my friend. Perhaps others here can chime in and explain it a bit better. Have you asked Peter Marks OR Dr. Hsu for help? They are like leaps and bounds above my capabilities and are most helpful. Give Dr. Hsu a call as I know he will be able to assist you ever so kindly. I have spoken to him on a couple occasions. Hope this helps and good luck.
post #513 of 5959
Quote:
Originally Posted by audiofreak38 View Post

I am sure the 3.3 can handle that scene IF it is calobrated properly. Have you done that? When calibrating turn the gain to about 1/4 then adjust from there. It is better to turn the level on the receiver up a bit if need be before turning the gain way up on the sub. I am not sure you would really need to run the sub hot or not. I did not need to in my room but when listening to music I would on occasion turn the volume on my receiver up to somewhat reference levels depending if my neighbor was at home. She leaves a lot during the day and comes home in the very late afternoon so I take advantage and crank my set-up up some. It is very important to calibrate w/Audessey then check w/RS SPL meter. You can also check again with Avia OR the Rives Test CDII. Once fully calibrated, then if you feel the need recalibrate the sub a bit higher to 77db or 78db. The idea is to allow for a smooth transition between the X-over point of the mains to that of the sub. If done properly, the sub will NOT sound localized depending on how high the X-over point is set. Mine is at 80 Hz. The higher the X-over point the more localized the sub becomes. Personally, I prefer to not know where the bass is coming from. It is sooooooooo kool when you get that effect!!!!!! My Primus speakers image superbly and thus when the bass is not localized the sound just freaks me out giving me a "you are there" sensation. This is the only way I know how to explain it my friend. Perhaps others here can chime in and explain it a bit better. Have you asked Peter Marks OR Dr. Hsu for help? They are like leaps and bounds above my capabilities and are most helpful. Give Dr. Hsu a call as I know he will be able to assist you ever so kindly. I have spoken to him on a couple occasions. Hope this helps and good luck.



Thanks for the help. By the way I also have primus speakers with beta es250 for surrounds and on top of that I stacked my two infinity PS212 in one corner along with the HSU in the other corner. The bass is ridiculous. I will calibrate the system this week and let you know what happened. I lowered the volume to a 1/3 and it was able to handle the depth charges just fine. Peter if you want to give me some advice that would be great.
post #514 of 5959
Hey bori,

Quote:
Originally Posted by bori View Post

I just got my VTF-3 MK3 Subwoofer and set it up in the corner. I set the volume to half way and my receiver is set to 0db with one port closed. Are these settings ok? Can someone please give me some advice.

Try running the subwoofer with both ports open and amplifier set to maximum output mode. That is generally the best way to run a single VTF-3 Mk3.

Could you describe your room for me (including dimensions, open areas, etc)?

Thanks!
post #515 of 5959
Quote:
Originally Posted by bori View Post

Thanks for the help. By the way I also have primus speakers with beta es250 for surrounds and on top of that I stacked my two infinity PS212 in one corner along with the HSU in the other corner. The bass is ridiculous. I will calibrate the system this week and let you know what happened. I lowered the volume to a 1/3 and it was able to handle the depth charges just fine. Peter if you want to give me some advice that would be great.

That is great bori. It sounds like you have a very nice set-up there. I too have been thinking about adding the ES250's for rear duties but kinda saving for a sub right now. Actually, I will be ordering one real soon. I bet the bass is ridiculous. I also am sure you gained better "musicality" with the 3.3. You know more punchy, tight, well-defined, articulate bass. Be sure to keep us informed and I know Peter Marks or Dr. Hsu will chime in as well.
post #516 of 5959
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Marcks View Post

Hey bori,



Try running the subwoofer with both ports open and amplifier set to maximum output mode. That is generally the best way to run a single VTF-3 Mk3.

Could you describe your room for me (including dimensions, open areas, etc)?

Thanks!

Hey Peter,

Take a look at my other posting right above. 22x14x7 opening going upstairs towards the back of the room and a opening to the right of the main listening position. I have the two infinity subs stacked in the other corner. Now if I open both ports I will not hit the lower frequencies correct? How low does the sub go with both ports open? I wanted to make sure that the HSU sub hit the low frequencies while the other two infinitys did most of there work in the higher range. I have not calibrated the sub yet but I did lower the volume and it seems to be able the handle the scene a lot better. I know I might be better off with the MBM-12 but I really like the infinitys and I want to try to integrate these three subs as well as possible. Tell me what you think Peter.
post #517 of 5959
bori, the VTF-3 Mk3 in max output mode has very good extension, easily down to 18-20Hz in room or even slightly lower. I would strongly recommend running it in this configuration for widest dynamic range and lowest chance for hearing port turbulence-related noises.

Try this as an experiment: unhook your Infinity's temporarily, and put the VTF-3 Mk3 sideways directly behind your couch with the woofer firing towards the couch (1-2" of spacing in between), Mk3 running in max output mode (both ports open, and set on amp). How does that sound to you? As a second experiment, try putting the VTF-3 Mk3 in the same position as the Infinity's, temporarily moving the Infinity's out of that corner, and Mk3 running in max output mode. Does that sound good? You could even try running all three in the same corner as a third experiment. Also, it would be interesting to see the Infinity's just handling 50Hz on up placed behind your couch, and the Mk3 handling deep bass placed in the front left corner.

I'd love to hear your impressions on these configs. Thanks so much!
post #518 of 5959
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Marcks View Post

bori, the VTF-3 Mk3 in max output mode has very good extension, easily down to 18-20Hz in room or even slightly lower. I would strongly recommend running it in this configuration for widest dynamic range and lowest chance for hearing port turbulence-related noises.

Try this as an experiment: unhook your Infinity's temporarily, and put the VTF-3 Mk3 sideways directly behind your couch with the woofer firing towards the couch (1-2" of spacing in between), Mk3 running in max output mode (both ports open, and set on amp). How does that sound to you? As a second experiment, try putting the VTF-3 Mk3 in the same position as the Infinity's, temporarily moving the Infinity's out of that corner, and Mk3 running in max output mode. Does that sound good? You could even try running all three in the same corner as a third experiment. Also, it would be interesting to see the Infinity's just handling 50Hz on up placed behind your couch, and the Mk3 handling deep bass placed in the front left corner.



I'd love to hear your impressions on these configs. Thanks so much!

I will try two out of the three. The putting the sub behind or next to the couch will not be a good idea for me. I have a two year child that will create havoc if gets close to the back panel of the sub. Thanks for you input and I will try the other two configurations.
post #519 of 5959
I've had my VT2 MK3 sub for about 6 months now and absolutely love it!

Unfortunately something has gone bad with the amplifier. I noticed tonight that the sub was not working. I was surprised to see that the little red/green light on the back was out.

I tried moving the power switch from AUTO to OFF and ON but the light stays out. Then I read in the troubleshooting section of the manual that it was likely a blown fuse. I took the fuse out and was shocked to find that the fuse was just fine.

On visual inspection it looked fine. My ohm meter broke on me recently so to confirm the fuse was OK I built a little circuit with batteries and a flash light bulb. I used each end of the fuse as a wire in the circuit, and the light lit up just fine.

Is this indeed sufficient evidence that the fuse is just fine? Or is it possible the fuse is still no good? What type of fuse exactly does it take? The manual says 5x20mm but doesn't state the amps or voltage or slow-blow vs fast acting (as the various 5x20mm fuses are described on the Radio Shack site).

Also I made 100.0% certain that I had good power coming from that outlet, and I verified it was not the power cable itself by replacing it within another one just like it. In fact the sub has always been plugged into a APCC battery backup UPS with surge protection. Just for testing purposes I also tried plugging it direct to the wall but it made no difference.

I was really hoping this was something I could fix myself. The idea of being without my sub even for a few days while I send the amp in for service is really harsh!!

Is there anything else I can try for troubleshooting purposes? Any chance it may be something simple other than the fuse I can fix myself?

If its not the power source and not the fuse, what else could it be? Its hard to imagine a perfectly fine working sub all the sudden just stops working out of the blue.

Please let me know what you guys think! I'm planning to call HSU in the morning but may sleep better if you had any thoughts you can share in the meantime. Thanks!!
post #520 of 5959
Loving, please give us a call tomorrow morning and ask for Dr. Hsu. In the meantime, you are more than welcome to email him at techsupport. Thanks!
post #521 of 5959
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Marcks View Post

bori, the VTF-3 Mk3 in max output mode has very good extension, easily down to 18-20Hz in room or even slightly lower. I would strongly recommend running it in this configuration for widest dynamic range and lowest chance for hearing port turbulence-related noises.

Try this as an experiment: unhook your Infinity's temporarily, and put the VTF-3 Mk3 sideways directly behind your couch with the woofer firing towards the couch (1-2" of spacing in between), Mk3 running in max output mode (both ports open, and set on amp). How does that sound to you? As a second experiment, try putting the VTF-3 Mk3 in the same position as the Infinity's, temporarily moving the Infinity's out of that corner, and Mk3 running in max output mode. Does that sound good? You could even try running all three in the same corner as a third experiment. Also, it would be interesting to see the Infinity's just handling 50Hz on up placed behind your couch, and the Mk3 handling deep bass placed in the front left corner.

I'd love to hear your impressions on these configs. Thanks so much!

Hello Peter,

I have tried the sub with both ports open. I would like to say that I am completely amazed with the power of this sub. Thanks for the advice and now I plan in the near future to add a second VTF-3 Mk3. Absolutely amazing subwoofer!
post #522 of 5959
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Marcks View Post

Loving, please give us a call tomorrow morning and ask for Dr. Hsu. In the meantime, you are more than welcome to email him at techsupport. Thanks!

Thanks. Unfortunately there was nothing much we could do over the phone to diagnose it. I'm rushing the amp back for service. Hopefully it will be repaired quickly and there will be no issue with needing parts and so forth. Looks like I will be without my sub for a good week+ I'm basically going to shut down the HT until it comes back - that's a testimate to how darn good this sub is - I don't want to watch anything without it!
post #523 of 5959
Quote:
Originally Posted by bori View Post

Hello Peter,

I have tried the sub with both ports open. I would like to say that I am completely amazed with the power of this sub. Thanks for the advice and now I plan in the near future to add a second VTF-3 Mk3. Absolutely amazing subwoofer!

bori, I am so glad you got it sounding better. It looks like I will be ordering a 3.3 myself. I have been looking and looking trying to make a well informed decision but I just keep coming back to the 3.3 again and again. It seems to have exactly what I am looking for from what I have garnered to date. It is within my budget and it feels right. So, chances are I will be ordering one tomorrow. Hopefully, I will be just as pleased as you are.
post #524 of 5959
Peter, how much does the 3.3 weigh in at? It says 90 lbs. but is that the shipping weight? I have a bad back and need to be careful lugging one around finding that sweet spot. Also, how big is the v/c?? Just curious is all. Thanks for your time. Hope you had a good Thanksgiving.
post #525 of 5959
I plan on selling my PS212 subwoofers so I can buy another HSU Sub. Should I go with second 3.3 or MBM-12?
post #526 of 5959
Quote:
Originally Posted by bori View Post

I plan on selling my PS212 subwoofers so I can buy another HSU Sub. Should I go with second 3.3 or MBM-12?

bori, I would run this by Peter OR Dr. Hsu himself. I know either of which would try to over sell you. Having (2) 3.3 's would have to me awesome as well as give you a more even response in your room. If you co-locate them you can get as much as a 6db gain which is very significant. Personally, I would lean towards getting another 3.3 first then perhaps the MBM-12 down the road so to speak. For my needs as well as getting along with my neighbors, I believe a single 3.3 would be more than enough. If not, then down the road I too will upgrage by adding a second 3.3 OR getting the MBM-12 midbass module. Of course, the former would be much easier on my wallet.
post #527 of 5959
Quote:
Originally Posted by bori View Post

Hello Peter,

I have tried the sub with both ports open. I would like to say that I am completely amazed with the power of this sub. Thanks for the advice and now I plan in the near future to add a second VTF-3 Mk3. Absolutely amazing subwoofer!

Nice, nice, good to hear! Are you running the -3 Mk3 in the front left corner now, and/or running with your Infinity subwoofers?

Normally I would recommend going with an MBM-12 at some point in the future to boost performance, but I recall that nearfield placement is not a realistic option for you. So I would stick with a single -3 Mk3 for now, and perhaps add another one at some point down the road!

Sincerely,
post #528 of 5959
Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

Thanks. Unfortunately there was nothing much we could do over the phone to diagnose it. I'm rushing the amp back for service. Hopefully it will be repaired quickly and there will be no issue with needing parts and so forth. Looks like I will be without my sub for a good week+ I'm basically going to shut down the HT until it comes back - that's a testimate to how darn good this sub is - I don't want to watch anything without it!

Yeah, it sucks to have to wait for the amp Hopefully things will move quickly from here. Thanks for the kind comments so far about the product!
post #529 of 5959
Hey there!

Quote:
Originally Posted by audiofreak38 View Post

Peter, how much does the 3.3 weigh in at? It says 90 lbs. but is that the shipping weight? I have a bad back and need to be careful lugging one around finding that sweet spot. Also, how big is the v/c?? Just curious is all. Thanks for your time. Hope you had a good Thanksgiving.

90 pounds shipped sounds about right. If you could provide me with a rough sketch of your room layout, I can recommend a position so that you don't have to lug it around everywhere to find a good spot.

I did have a nice Thanksgiving, and some huge meals Hope you had a great one too! My pleasure to help out, and thanks for being inquisitive...
post #530 of 5959
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Marcks View Post

Nice, nice, good to hear! Are you running the -3 Mk3 in the front left corner now, and/or running with your Infinity subwoofers?

Normally I would recommend going with an MBM-12 at some point in the future to boost performance, but I recall that nearfield placement is not a realistic option for you. So I would stick with a single -3 Mk3 for now, and perhaps add another one at some point down the road!

Sincerely,


I only have the Sub turned up a 1/3 of the way up and I left it in the right front corner of the room. The Infinity subs are still stacked in the left front corner. One of the questions I asked in one of my post is the MK3 more powerful than my two infinity's together. I can answer this question myself now and Its definitely more powerful than my two infinity's together. So if anyone is on the fence with picking a subwoofer. Make sure you take a look at this testosterone filled subwoofer.
post #531 of 5959
Bori, have you calibrated your sub with an spl meter yet?
post #532 of 5959
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Marcks View Post

Hey there!



90 pounds shipped sounds about right. If you could provide me with a rough sketch of your room layout, I can recommend a position so that you don't have to lug it around everywhere to find a good spot.

I did have a nice Thanksgiving, and some huge meals Hope you had a great one too! My pleasure to help out, and thanks for being inquisitive...

Okay Peter I will do just that. I will take some pics and send them to you as soon as I can. The last time I tried to post some pics here it appeared that I reached my limit. So, may have to delete some of the older pics I have posted. Anyways, I will try to work on it some today. Have a good one yourself.
post #533 of 5959
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin12586 View Post

Bori, have you calibrated your sub with an spl meter yet?


Not yet probably do it this weekend.
post #534 of 5959
You may want to calibrate your present subs first, you may find out that you have more than enough bass already and may not need to buy more. Just a suggestion
post #535 of 5959
Hello all,

I want to get a VTF2 Mk3 for my main system in my living room. I will used it both for music (most important) and HT duties. I know the can be used as a side table but my couch is in the middle of the room and I can't have the sub cable going across the room (I wish there was a wireless transmitter that would work with subwoofers). My other option is to have the sub way in the back of the room (aprox. 20' deep). Is there a way to hide the cable? I know there are flat speaker wires that can be glued to the walls and then painted, but is there a similar option for an RCA cable that I can connect to the LFE out on my receiver? I have hardwood floors and can't hide it under the carpet.

Any help from those of you who do not have a dedicated HT and had to come up with sensible ways to integrate your sub in the living room, without upsetting the wife, will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks a lot!
post #536 of 5959
Quote:
Originally Posted by Q&A View Post

Hello all,

I want to get a VTF2 Mk3 for my main system in my living room. I will used it both for music (most important) and HT duties. I know the can be used as a side table but my couch is in the middle of the room and I can't have the sub cable going across the room (I wish there was a wireless transmitter that would work with subwoofers). My other option is to have the sub way in the back of the room (aprox. 20' deep). Is there a way to hide the cable? I know there are flat speaker wires that can be glued to the walls and then painted, but is there a similar option for an RCA cable that I can connect to the LFE out on my receiver? I have hardwood floors and can't hide it under the carpet.

Any help from those of you who do not have a dedicated HT and had to come up with sensible ways to integrate your sub in the living room, without upsetting the wife, will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks a lot!

Maybe a small piece of wire molding running along the bottom of the wall just the molding would do the trick. They have decorative ones and you can also paint them to match your wall color. This assumes you are targeting the corner for your placement. As for the VTF2 MK3 itself, I can't say enough good about them. As you may have read above mine went in for service and I am having major withdraw without i!
post #537 of 5959
Lovingdvd,

Thanks for the reply. I have seen the molding you are referring to but it would be very complicated for me to use it. In order for the cable to get to the corner of the rear wall, it needs to go around a door to my balcony and I don't thing it will look good. It would be great if there was a wireless solution... Or even flat cables.
post #538 of 5959
Quote:
Originally Posted by Q&A View Post

and I don't thing it will look good.

But it would sound great!

Maybe try calling an electrician - many are excellent at fishing wires and perhaps there is a different route. For instance some times you can run a wire up to the ceiling, across the higher level in a more concealed place, and then drop it back down through the ceiling on the other site of the room, etc.
post #539 of 5959
Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

But it would sound great!

Maybe try calling an electrician - many are excellent at fishing wires and perhaps there is a different route. For instance some times you can run a wire up to the ceiling, across the higher level in a more concealed place, and then drop it back down through the ceiling on the other site of the room, etc.

I always recommend a low-voltage contractor (alarm systems, etc.).

Swing by a local housing development and look for the guys doing the alarm and speaker work.

Splotto
post #540 of 5959
Peter, was not able to get any pics done today. Got called into work. Anyways, I did manage to order a VTF3.3 though. Cant wait till it is here!!!!!
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