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***Official HSU owners/support thread!*** - Page 181

post #5401 of 6210
It will be somewhat underpowered for your space, but if you don't play very loudly, that should be fine. Add another VTF-1 MK2 if you find it underpowered, or upgrade to a VTF-3 MK4 later and use the VTF-1 MK2 in a secondary system.
post #5402 of 6210
It will still be a substantial upgrade from what Im currently using, right? Pinnacle Audio 8" 300W sub.

Link here: http://pinnaclespeakers.com/subcompact8.html

Quick Info:
Features:

Anti-Clipping Circuit For High Level Undistorted Bass!
High Quality, High Power Class A/B Amplifier
Auto On/Off circuit with LED indicator
Gold Plated Binding Posts
Includes 10' High Quality Gold Plated Interconnect Cable
Line Level Inputs
Phase & Crossover Bypass Switches
Includes Non-Skid Rubber Feet for Stability
Satellite Speaker Crossover:
First Order @ 80 Hz
Speaker Level Inputs & Outputs
Stylish Rounded Edge Cabinet Design
Variable Crossover 50-150 Hz
Volume Control
Designed and Assembled in the USA
2 Year Transferable Warranty On Amplifier
7 Year Transferable Warranty On parts & labor for the rest of the subwoofer

System Type: Ultra Compact, Front Firing 8", Acoustic Suspension.

Component Driver: 8" fibercone woofer with butyl surround, 2" voice coil and 40 ounce magnet.

Subwoofer Low End Frequency Response: 27 Hz (- 3 dB)

Variable Subwoofer Low Pass Filter: 50 - 150 Hz

Satellite Speaker Crossover: First Order @ 80 Hz

System Power: 300 Watts

Dimensions: 9 7/8” Wide x 10” High x 11 3/8" Deep (with Amp & Grille)

Finish: Premium Black Vinyl

Weight: 20 lbs. each
post #5403 of 6210
Yes.
post #5404 of 6210
Rock on, thanks! biggrin.gif
post #5405 of 6210
I am looking for a sub and want to buy the HSU VTF2 MK4

I was searching my local craigslist and found a 2 year old HSU VTF2 MK3 for sale that I plan on purchasing for $350.

I feel this is a good price and I am assuming that these two subs are very comparable?

I am putting the sub in a 19 X 16 X 10 room, let me know if you guys think that will be sufficient.

Thanks!
post #5406 of 6210
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeb3408 View Post

I am looking for a sub and want to buy the HSU VTF2 MK4
I was searching my local craigslist and found a 2 year old HSU VTF2 MK3 for sale that I plan on purchasing for $350.
I feel this is a good price and I am assuming that these two subs are very comparable?
I am putting the sub in a 19 X 16 X 10 room, let me know if you guys think that will be sufficient.
Thanks!
I have the VTF2 MK3 and it is amazing. I believe that the only difference between the MK4 and MK3 is the Q control, which is a very nice added feature.
I purchased my MK3 at full price, same as MK4 retail, and I honestly think it is a bargain even at full price when comparing other subs to ti.
If you get it for $350 and it is still in like-new condition you will be very happy with it.
post #5407 of 6210
Quote:
Originally Posted by raistline View Post

I have the VTF2 MK3 and it is amazing. I believe that the only difference between the MK4 and MK3 is the Q control, which is a very nice added feature.
I purchased my MK3 at full price, same as MK4 retail, and I honestly think it is a bargain even at full price when comparing other subs to ti.
If you get it for $350 and it is still in like-new condition you will be very happy with it.

The woofer in the MK4 has more output in the mid to upper bass, but the difference is not huge. Go for it.
post #5408 of 6210
I perused the thread...my question is what is the verdict on using the wireless capabilities of the ULS-15? Can anyone summarize their findings? How much degredation (if any) of the sound quality is there? If I pulled the trigger, they'd go in the theater which is 95% movies, FWIW. Thanks.
post #5409 of 6210
How large is your room? Does it open up to other rooms? If so how large are the adjoining rooms? If it's 95% HT, the 15H would probably be more suitable for you.
post #5410 of 6210
Thank you sir. It is a dedicated sealed room about 22' x 24'. I have two subs in there already sitting on opposite sides of the main listening position (one on right wall, one of left wall). They are DIY with PE HF subwoofers in them. They are working hard and sometimes bottom out (powered with a QSC GX5).

I felt that adding two subs up front under the screen would assist the current two. But I don't want to run wires to that position (as I didn't think ahead when I was building the room). There is wifi in the room. No microwave.
post #5411 of 6210
You definitely want to consider getting two 15Hs. You can buy the Soundcast Subcast to transmit the signal to them (search it on Amazon - you can get it for $169 delivered). One subcast can transmit to both subs. (I assume running from one sub to the other wired should not be an issue)
post #5412 of 6210
Thank you for the advice. I will investigate all the suggestions. I am curious why the recommendation of the 15Hs and not the ULS series with wireless already built in. You are correct that running a wire from one sub to the other would not pose an issue.
post #5413 of 6210
The 15H has significantly more output, more suitable for HT. The ULS are best for music (unless you go for an octo drive... ) If you are bottoming out your current subs, you want subs that has the highest output.
post #5414 of 6210
Hey all, I just put a nail through my sub cable and although it was a small nail from a cable staple gun I'm assuming the cable will need to be replaced. As I was looking at the back of my HSU VTF3 MK3 I started to wonder if I should be wiring it differently. I recently moved into a new house and am in the process of setting everything up. Here are pics of the back of my HSU and AVR, any advice would be much appreciated:)
448

233
post #5415 of 6210
Unless the cable has been completely severed or the signal path is otherwise compromised, I don't think you *have* to replace the cable, but sub cables are fairly inexpensive so perhaps it's better to replace it simply for peace of mind.

If you're running a connection from your AVR's "SW" output to the "Sub in" input on your sub, there's no need to wire it any other way. smile.gif
Edited by eljaycanuck - 7/12/12 at 9:35am
post #5416 of 6210
Quote:
Originally Posted by eljaycanuck View Post

Unless the cable has been completely severed or the signal path is otherwise compromised, I don't think you *have* to replace the cable, but sub cables are fairly inexpensive so perhaps it's better to replace it simply for peace of mind.
If you're running a connection from your AVR's "SW" output to the "Sub in" input on your sub, there's no need to wire it any other way. smile.gif
Great news, thanks! that will make life much easier!
post #5417 of 6210
Quote:
Originally Posted by General Kenobi View Post

Hey all, I just put a nail through my sub cable and although it was a small nail from a cable staple gun I'm assuming the cable will need to be replaced. As I was looking at the back of my HSU VTF3 MK3 I started to wonder if I should be wiring it differently. I recently moved into a new house and am in the process of setting everything up. Here are pics of the back of my HSU and AVR, any advice would be much appreciated:)
448
233

What I did notice is that you had the crossover set to 'in', and a fairly low crossover frequency. Since you are using the Denon's bass management, you should set the crossover on the sub to out. Also, is one of the port plugged? If both ports are open, make sure the bass extension switch is in the two ports open position.
post #5418 of 6210
Dr. Hsu,

What settings on the VTF1 MK2 should I start with for my initial setup. I tried searching, but it brought me back 9 pages of results. Thanks for the help!
post #5419 of 6210
Disregard that...I'm making my way through it! smile.gif
post #5420 of 6210
Have fun reading, but I would start out with the sub set to 1 port open, EQ1, Q=0.3, volume around 9 o'clock, phase 0.
post #5421 of 6210
Thanks! Is it best to rerun audyssey anytime i change a setting the back of the sub?
post #5422 of 6210
Holy cow.

I got everything all setup and watched the opening scene of Master and Commander on bluray. My old sub wasn't awful,mbut now I FEEL the bass. I am seriously impressed!!!! Two thumbs way up! biggrin.gif
post #5423 of 6210
Glad to hear that. Imagine what a 15H would do.... biggrin.gif
post #5424 of 6210
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hsu View Post

What I did notice is that you had the crossover set to 'in', and a fairly low crossover frequency. Since you are using the Denon's bass management, you should set the crossover on the sub to out. Also, is one of the port plugged? If both ports are open, make sure the bass extension switch is in the two ports open position.
Thanks for the input. I'm assuming things got switched while this was being moved. We just moved into a new house and I had this shrink wrapped in furniture pads:p
post #5425 of 6210
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hsu View Post

Glad to hear that. Imagine what a 15H would do.... biggrin.gif
I simply cannot imagine! This is a huge upgrade over my prior system.
post #5426 of 6210
Are there recommended settings for movies vs music? The default setup sounds good on movies, but it is a bit bass heavy for music and concerts.
post #5427 of 6210
Quote:
Originally Posted by mgproudfit View Post

Are there recommended settings for movies vs music? The default setup sounds good on movies, but it is a bit bass heavy for music and concerts.

The try one port open, Q3 and EQ2 or EQ1. For me movies/music sound nice with 2 ports open, Q3, and EQ2.
post #5428 of 6210
Did you use auto calibration, or use a SPL meter to set the subwoofer level?
post #5429 of 6210
auto - don't have an SPL
post #5430 of 6210
You should consider getting one.
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