***Official HSU owners/support thread!*** - Page 192

They support mine more than they support yours. But only IMHO, of course, and YMMV.

VTF-1
- 10" driver
- 200W continuous
- 25Hz @ -2dB (ported); 32Hz @ -2dB (sealed)
- 18 H x 14" W x 17" D
- 42 lbs

VTF-2
- 12" driver
- 250W continuous
- 18Hz @ -2dB (ported); 25Hz @ -2dB (sealed)
- 20 1⁄2" H x 15" W x 22" D
- 64 lbs

PB-1000
- 10" driver
- 300W RMS
- 19-270Hz +/-3dB
- 18.4" (h) x 15" (w) x 17.4" (d)
- 46 lbs

And, really, so what? If it costs $0 to try out a PB-1000, trying one out doesn't cost anything, regardless of which HSU sub the PB-1000 resembles.

But if it encourages neo samurai to at least try out a PB-1000 for no cost to himself, I'm willing to concede that you're absolutely right.
Edited by eljaycanuck - 11/30/12 at 5:27pm

One thing to keep in mind is the measurement window, as Ed Mullen mentioned here, so the question is what would the PB1000's -2 db look like? Another thing to keep in mind is it can get low but at what output levels? Output and extension are always going to be traded off, and extension doesn't matter if it can't get loud. There is a reason why you don't find many 10" subs tuned that low. I don't believe the PB1000 is in the VTF2's weight class, and at the moment I would encourage anyone contemplating these subs to get them both and compare them if the PB1000's return shipping is free (btw I don't see where it says return shipping is free), because I would guess the PB1000 is the one that would be sent back.

Leaving it in the 'on' position does not affect the sub's reliability. All circuits are active whether the sub is in the 'on' position or 'auto' position.

That is exactly right. Feeding signal to both inputs simply increases the gain, not the output capability of the sub.

Like I said: If it encourages neo samurai to take advantage of SVS's free delivery and return shipping offer - which would allow him to demo the PB-1000 at no risk and no cost - I completely, 100% agree that you're absolutely right.
The very first ad that pops up on SVS' home page says, in very large letters: Since delivery shipping is already included in the price of the sub, that means free two-way shipping. Pretty sweet deal, IMO.

FWIW, and just to be completely clear about this:
- I really don't care which sub neo samurai ends up with - that's entirely up to him.
- And I have nothing at all against HSU subs - I read lots of very positive things about them and I've recommended them many times.
- But a good deal is a good deal - and that is all I'm saying, nothing more, I swear!
Edited by eljaycanuck - 11/30/12 at 7:15pm

What is the purpose of the 'auto' position?

I don't see any need for it. It is something that customers wanted.

I get the gain where Audyssey lands 0 to -3, then I boost 3db and leave it alone.

Only reason I use Auto, is because if I dont when I cut my AVR on there is a loud thump.

If your AVR does that, then the auto is a good option to have.

I want to re-arrange my setup. Does this look like it will work out good with the sub back in the left hand corner? I have the VTF-2 MK4.

Don't see why not. What did you use to make the diagram?

http://www.sweethome3d.com/index.jsp

That should be fine.

Guys I apologize if I have asked this before but this if my first time owning a true sub the Hsu vtf3 mk4 and I don't quite now how it should really sound. Most people on the forums mention it shakes the room or the bass is tight. In my case the sub sounds awesome and the bass is smooth but what I want to know is when there are low frequencies are you suppose to feel the pressure with your ears? Not boomy but more like when it pressurizes are we suppose to feel the pressure in our ears?

You get the sense of pressurization when you get high levels below 20 Hz such as track 1 on the CDR we provide (the Saint Saens). Can you post your room layout including adjoining spaces that are not closed off when listening?

That brings up a question I have. When we play that cd, what settings should be on? Full output with both ports open and eq2, .3?

I'll post layout asap thank you

I have the VTF2-MK4 and I just ran the test cd. When I played the 16Hz test tone, I heard nothing from the sub. I didn't start hearing bass until I played the 20Hz tone. Should I hear anything from 16Hz? I'm running the sub in Ported Max Output Mode. Is that the best mode for getting the most punch from this sub?

In ported max output mode, the VTF-2 MK4 only goes down to 25 Hz. Not surprised that you don't get anything with the 16 Hz test tone.

Ah, makes sense.Don't these subs go down to 18Hz though?

You need to set the sub to one port open, EQ1 mode to get to 18 Hz.

They will, but you have to run it in max extension mode. Plug a port and switch it to extension mode. Make sure that port is plugged before you flip the switch though. The modes exchange louder output for deeper bass.

I switched to max extension mode and now I hear bass when I play the 16Hz track. I also noticed the organs on track 1 sound much deeper now.

Good! For programs that go that low, use the max extension mode (one port open). For program that does go below the two ports open mode, using the two ports open mode will yield (for the same listening level) lower distortion, higher headroom, and better long term reliability.

So 2 ports open, EQ2, and what should the Q control be set to?

Q 0.3 would have the highest headroom and tightest bass.

Dr. Hsu, are you saying that if I keep my sub in max extension mode, it will shorten the life of the sub?

I saw that too. What does better long term reliability mean? Is extension mode harder on my sub than other modes?

My biggest reason for purchasing the sub, was that it goes down to 18Hz. It needs to be in max extension for that, but I don't want to shorten the life of the sub either. Hopefully, Dr. Hsu will shed some light on this.