or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Subwoofers, Bass, and Transducers › ***Official HSU owners/support thread!***
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

***Official HSU owners/support thread!*** - Page 192

post #5731 of 6208
Quote:
Lol gimme a break! The specs do not support your claim at all.
They support mine more than they support yours. wink.gif But only IMHO, of course, and YMMV. smile.gif

VTF-1
- 10" driver
- 200W continuous
- 25Hz @ -2dB (ported); 32Hz @ -2dB (sealed)
- 18 H x 14" W x 17" D
- 42 lbs

VTF-2
- 12" driver
- 250W continuous
- 18Hz @ -2dB (ported); 25Hz @ -2dB (sealed)
- 20 1⁄2" H x 15" W x 22" D
- 64 lbs

PB-1000
- 10" driver
- 300W RMS
- 19-270Hz +/-3dB
- 18.4" (h) x 15" (w) x 17.4" (d)
- 46 lbs

And, really, so what? If it costs $0 to try out a PB-1000, trying one out doesn't cost anything, regardless of which HSU sub the PB-1000 resembles.

But if it encourages neo samurai to at least try out a PB-1000 for no cost to himself, I'm willing to concede that you're absolutely right. smile.gif
Edited by eljaycanuck - 11/30/12 at 5:27pm
post #5732 of 6208
Quote:
Originally Posted by eljaycanuck View Post

They support mine more than they support yours. wink.gif But only IMHO, of course, and YMMV. smile.gif
VTF-1
- 10" driver
- 200W continuous
- 25Hz @ -2dB (ported); 32Hz @ -2dB (sealed)
- 18 H x 14" W x 17" D
- 42 lbs
VTF-2
- 12" driver
- 250W continuous
- 18Hz @ -2dB (ported); 25Hz @ -2dB (sealed)
- 20 1⁄2" H x 15" W x 22" D
- 64 lbs
PB-1000
- 10" driver
- 300W RMS
- 19-270Hz +/-3dB
- 18.4" (h) x 15" (w) x 17.4" (d)
- 46 lbs
And, really, so what? If it costs $0 to try out a PB-1000, trying one out doesn't cost anything, regardless of which HSU sub the PB-1000 resembles.

One thing to keep in mind is the measurement window, as Ed Mullen mentioned here, so the question is what would the PB1000's -2 db look like? Another thing to keep in mind is it can get low but at what output levels? Output and extension are always going to be traded off, and extension doesn't matter if it can't get loud. There is a reason why you don't find many 10" subs tuned that low. I don't believe the PB1000 is in the VTF2's weight class, and at the moment I would encourage anyone contemplating these subs to get them both and compare them if the PB1000's return shipping is free (btw I don't see where it says return shipping is free), because I would guess the PB1000 is the one that would be sent back.
post #5733 of 6208
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

He said it does not consume any more power. He did not say that it does not affect the reliability of the amp. If both of those were the case then why even have an "auto" option? Just get rid of that and either have it off or on.

Leaving it in the 'on' position does not affect the sub's reliability. All circuits are active whether the sub is in the 'on' position or 'auto' position.
post #5734 of 6208
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke Kamp View Post

It does not provide more output from the sub. The subs max output is the same. What the splitter does is increase the input to the sub, just like turning up the receiver out level. Either way you have to turn down the gain on the sub as I stated before. Roughly the same output is not the same output. Glad it worked out for you.
The definitive answer has been answered several times in many different threads over the years. Google search "will rca splitter increase subwoofer level"
Here is an avs one
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1361317/is-there-any-difference-between-a-single-rca-sub-in-and-a-l-r-rca-sub-in

That is exactly right. Feeding signal to both inputs simply increases the gain, not the output capability of the sub.
post #5735 of 6208
Quote:
I don't believe the PB1000 is in the VTF2's weight class, and at the moment I would encourage anyone contemplating these subs to get them both and compare them if the PB1000's return shipping is free ... because I would guess the PB1000 is the one that would be sent back.
Like I said: If it encourages neo samurai to take advantage of SVS's free delivery and return shipping offer - which would allow him to demo the PB-1000 at no risk and no cost - I completely, 100% agree that you're absolutely right. smile.gif
Quote:
... (btw I don't see where it says return shipping is free) ...
The very first ad that pops up on SVS' home page says, in very large letters:
Quote:
FREE RETURN SHIPPING ON EVERYTHING!
BLACK FRIDAY THROUGH THE END OF NOVEMBER.
Since delivery shipping is already included in the price of the sub, that means free two-way shipping. Pretty sweet deal, IMO.

FWIW, and just to be completely clear about this:
- I really don't care which sub neo samurai ends up with - that's entirely up to him.
- And I have nothing at all against HSU subs - I read lots of very positive things about them and I've recommended them many times.
- But a good deal is a good deal - and that is all I'm saying, nothing more, I swear! biggrin.gif
Edited by eljaycanuck - 11/30/12 at 7:15pm
post #5736 of 6208
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hsu View Post

Leaving it in the 'on' position does not affect the sub's reliability. All circuits are active whether the sub is in the 'on' position or 'auto' position.
What is the purpose of the 'auto' position?
post #5737 of 6208
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

What is the purpose of the 'auto' position?

I don't see any need for it. It is something that customers wanted.
post #5738 of 6208
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prime316 View Post

I ran Audyssey and it set my 15h to -2.5 db. From what I've read, it's generally accepted to increase the sub's out +3 db which would put me a +.5 db. My question is what setting do most of you actually run at?
Do you stay with the 3 db range or do you go far above that when watching movies?
Or is it a better suggestion to crank the gain ever so slightly and go for the 0 db output using Audyssey?

I get the gain where Audyssey lands 0 to -3, then I boost 3db and leave it alone.
post #5739 of 6208
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hsu View Post

I don't see any need for it. It is something that customers wanted.

Only reason I use Auto, is because if I dont when I cut my AVR on there is a loud thump.
post #5740 of 6208
Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgtfreek View Post

Only reason I use Auto, is because if I dont when I cut my AVR on there is a loud thump.

If your AVR does that, then the auto is a good option to have.
post #5741 of 6208
I want to re-arrange my setup. Does this look like it will work out good with the sub back in the left hand corner? I have the VTF-2 MK4.




post #5742 of 6208
Quote:
Originally Posted by biglen View Post

I want to re-arrange my setup. Does this look like it will work out good with the sub back in the left hand corner? I have the VTF-2 MK4.
Don't see why not. What did you use to make the diagram?
post #5743 of 6208
Quote:
Originally Posted by ambesolman View Post

Don't see why not. What did you use to make the diagram?


http://www.sweethome3d.com/index.jsp
post #5744 of 6208
That should be fine.
post #5745 of 6208
Guys I apologize if I have asked this before but this if my first time owning a true sub the Hsu vtf3 mk4 and I don't quite now how it should really sound. Most people on the forums mention it shakes the room or the bass is tight. In my case the sub sounds awesome and the bass is smooth but what I want to know is when there are low frequencies are you suppose to feel the pressure with your ears? Not boomy but more like when it pressurizes are we suppose to feel the pressure in our ears?
post #5746 of 6208
You get the sense of pressurization when you get high levels below 20 Hz such as track 1 on the CDR we provide (the Saint Saens). Can you post your room layout including adjoining spaces that are not closed off when listening?
post #5747 of 6208
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hsu View Post

You get the sense of pressurization when you get high levels below 20 Hz such as track 1 on the CDR we provide (the Saint Saens). Can you post your room layout including adjoining spaces that are not closed off when listening?


That brings up a question I have. When we play that cd, what settings should be on? Full output with both ports open and eq2, .3?
post #5748 of 6208
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hsu View Post

You get the sense of pressurization when you get high levels below 20 Hz such as track 1 on the CDR we provide (the Saint Saens). Can you post your room layout including adjoining spaces that are not closed off when listening?

I'll post layout asap thank you
post #5749 of 6208
I have the VTF2-MK4 and I just ran the test cd. When I played the 16Hz test tone, I heard nothing from the sub. I didn't start hearing bass until I played the 20Hz tone. Should I hear anything from 16Hz? I'm running the sub in Ported Max Output Mode. Is that the best mode for getting the most punch from this sub?
post #5750 of 6208
Quote:
Originally Posted by biglen View Post

I have the VTF2-MK4 and I just ran the test cd. When I played the 16Hz test tone, I heard nothing from the sub. I didn't start hearing bass until I played the 20Hz tone. Should I hear anything from 16Hz? I'm running the sub in Ported Max Output Mode. Is that the best mode for getting the most punch from this sub?

In ported max output mode, the VTF-2 MK4 only goes down to 25 Hz. Not surprised that you don't get anything with the 16 Hz test tone.
post #5751 of 6208
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hsu View Post

In ported max output mode, the VTF-2 MK4 only goes down to 25 Hz. Not surprised that you don't get anything with the 16 Hz test tone.

Ah, makes sense.Don't these subs go down to 18Hz though?
post #5752 of 6208
You need to set the sub to one port open, EQ1 mode to get to 18 Hz.
post #5753 of 6208
Quote:
Originally Posted by biglen View Post

Ah, makes sense.Don't these subs go down to 18Hz though?

They will, but you have to run it in max extension mode. Plug a port and switch it to extension mode. Make sure that port is plugged before you flip the switch though. The modes exchange louder output for deeper bass.
post #5754 of 6208
I switched to max extension mode and now I hear bass when I play the 16Hz track. I also noticed the organs on track 1 sound much deeper now.
post #5755 of 6208
Good! For programs that go that low, use the max extension mode (one port open). For program that does go below the two ports open mode, using the two ports open mode will yield (for the same listening level) lower distortion, higher headroom, and better long term reliability.
post #5756 of 6208
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hsu View Post

Good! For programs that go that low, use the max extension mode (one port open). For program that does go below the two ports open mode, using the two ports open mode will yield (for the same listening level) lower distortion, higher headroom, and better long term reliability.

So 2 ports open, EQ2, and what should the Q control be set to?
post #5757 of 6208
Quote:
Originally Posted by biglen View Post

So 2 ports open, EQ2, and what should the Q control be set to?

Q 0.3 would have the highest headroom and tightest bass.
post #5758 of 6208
Dr. Hsu, are you saying that if I keep my sub in max extension mode, it will shorten the life of the sub?
post #5759 of 6208
Quote:
Originally Posted by biglen View Post

Dr. Hsu, are you saying that if I keep my sub in max extension mode, it will shorten the life of the sub?

I saw that too. What does better long term reliability mean? Is extension mode harder on my sub than other modes?
post #5760 of 6208
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prime316 View Post

I saw that too. What does better long term reliability mean? Is extension mode harder on my sub than other modes?


My biggest reason for purchasing the sub, was that it goes down to 18Hz. It needs to be in max extension for that, but I don't want to shorten the life of the sub either. Hopefully, Dr. Hsu will shed some light on this.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Subwoofers, Bass, and Transducers › ***Official HSU owners/support thread!***